Our team had a great day today, putting in a cache at 13,700' at Windy Corner. We returned to a day time schedule, and enjoyed a warm and sunny day today. The weather is beautiful here at the 11,000' camp tonight; there is blue sky above, clouds below, and no wind. We're all in our sleeping bags and looking forward to a good night's rest.
If the weather is good tomorrow morning we are planning to move our camp up to 14,200'. We are feeling ready and are looking forward to the challenge of tomorrow. That's it for now...time to get some zzzz...
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Well I'm sure you all have been wondering where in the world we are. Forgive the suspense, but it has been an action packed few days. After our last sub-space frequency, we had to re-reevaluate our situation and make the difficult, but ultimately very clear decision to return to lower elevations. After many days at 17,000 feet and over a week waiting for a window at 14,000' camp we were plain out of time for a realistic summit attempt. Often these expeditions make allowances for running over budget on time and our team was prepared to hold out for a workable window to go for the top. However, the weather never did us the favor of cooperating. Such is the way of the mountains and we are wise to read their signals.
Our stay at 17,000 feet was marked by deep snow, drifting thigh to waist high outside of camp and persisting for days. Accompanied by high winds that loaded start zones and released multiple full track avalanches that ran down almost to the ranger station at 14 camp, stability seemed far from our reality. Our route to Denali Pass ran several times and when the storm cleared long enough the famous autobahn is positively pregnant with deep windslabs. The weather reports we have been monitoring continue to predict unstable weather, high winds and more snow, followed by a large low pressure system bringing more bad weather to the mountain. Still we didn't want to head down, but staying longer in such weather exposes us to greater risk the longer we stay.
Capitalizing on a lull in the weather, we began our descent of the West Buttress yesterday. That is my favorite part of the route and presents some of the most interesting climbing on this route. Our 19 days on this beautiful mountain prepared us well to move efficiently and though I would gladly have gone to the top with such a great team, I was glad to be able to handle the route's namesake feature in windy conditions with safe teammates.
Despite the spindrift and new snow, conditions did present us with some pockets of sunshine where we were able to see this mountain in its stormy glory. We made it down to 14 camp where we regrouped and hoofed it down to 11,000 feet for a hot meal and a few hours sleep with some amazing skies on our way around Windy Corner.
Three hours of downtime, then it was off again and we raced the warming Lower Kahiltna Glacier's snow bridges to the runway. On our exit we were able to see the upper mountain up the NE Fork and again from the airstrip. It was still socked in with a cloud cap and high winds and our call to escape, though bittersweet, remains sound.
Having not heard the sound of planes in the air for days, it was a treat to see the Otters, Beavers and Cessnas amongst the spectacular backdrop of Mt. Hunter and Foraker. Our gear sorted, we were on the afternoon flight and are now back in Talkeetna, magically back to summer and a land where green things flourish and showers imply happiness instead of misery. In a few hours our team will meet again for another dinner, prepared by strangers and without the ambiance of a snow fort. It will be a welcome treat.
Thank you friends and family for the support and love on our adventure. We went out not knowing what would happen and we returned safe, but with some unfinished business. I am content that we gave it our all and emerged friends and stronger for the time amongst the clouds and upper atmosphere. Thanks to a great team and excellent colleagues, it was an adventure I am happy to have shared with everyone,
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Thanks Jake, Gilbert and Mike for your outstanding leadership on this climb. We all made it out safely, and that was the ultimate goal. It was great to meet new climbing (and ultimately drinking) buddies and friends. An awesome experience and we are a little older and wiser in the ways of Denali. We have some unfinished business, and I suspect some of us will be back to take care of things. Thanks again, guides! Vince
Posted by: Vince Vilasi on 7/1/2011 at 5:45 am
Thanks so much for generously allowing me to tie in on the descent. Both the folks that I roped up with, and the fantastic welcoming committee at 11,000’ were awesome!!!
The climbing team spent a lovely five days on Mount Baker after a sunny day at Mount Erie. Despite the initial cold, rain and high winds, the team prevailed physically and mentally through training and good laughs. The summit wasn't in the cards due to challenging route conditions that didn't lend themselves to safe travel. However, the team kept spirits high and explored crevasses and additional skills high up on Mount Baker. The mountain isn't going anywhere!
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer checked in from the summit of Denali at 5:50 pm PT on Monday, May 29th. The team returned to their high camp at 17,000' around 1 am PT.
Early risers at Shira Camp witnessed a giant moon setting out near Mount Meru to our west this morning. We still had views of the upper flanks of Kilimanjaro when we went to breakfast, but by the time we hit the trail, the great cliffs and glaciers were cloaked in cloud. We marched upward on a low angled and broad ridge. Gradually the plants got smaller and smaller until there were hardly any of note by our high point at the Lava Tower. We endured a short sleet storm near the 14,900' pass, but that did not keep us from pushing on and breaking altitude records for a number of our team members. Then we began a steady descent into the Barranco Valley. Clouds let loose a ten minute rain shower on us and kept us guessing about the steep contours above. We could just see hints of ice and crazily angled rock up above. Below we could see a magical valley of Dr. Seuss style plants unfolding. Giant Senecios and Lobelias abounded. We were in our new home and safely in the tents at 13,000' before the next rain showers commenced. The late afternoon and evening blended together as a damp fog settled over our Barranco tent village.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Thursday, June 13, 2013RMI Guide Mike Haugen called from Talkeetna, Alaska this morning. The weather is beautiful and the team is packed and ready. They are loading their planes at the K2 Aviation Hanger and will be flying to the Kahiltna Glacier today.
We wish them a safe and successful expedition on Mt. McKinley!
It was another wonderful day here on Kilimanjaro with clear skies to start the day. We hiked for just about six hours all total today starting at 12,200' and then climbed up to 15,300' and then descended back down to 12,800'. Everyone did great and thoroughly enjoyed the climb and many of the team members set new altitude records for themselves. The climb took us up across the Shira Plateau, traversed over to Lava Tower and then underneath the Arrow Glacier. We then descended into a valley that sits at the base of the Great Barranco Wall. Along the way we stopped and admired the unique vegetation that is only found in the high altitude of Africa. We saw many giant lobelias, groundsels and hundreds of Senicio trees that look like something out of a Dr. Seuss book.
The team is now resting comfortably in camp and are looking forward to climbing the Barranco Wall tomorrow.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
Glad everything is going great,Megan & Wes hope yall are having fun love Mom & Dad.
Posted by: David & Juli Erickson on 9/21/2012 at 2:01 pm
Hi Ken and Leeza - glad to know you and the rest of the team are doing very well on this exciting adventure. Thank you, Casey, for the updates. Best wishes to all! Sabine and Larry
Our climbing team came together in the last couple of days. We got seven folks and their baggage through a bunch of airports and airlines all the way to Kilimanjaro International Airport. And as of yesterday, we had the team, plus one guide, all assembled at The Rivertrees Inn in Usa River, Tanzania. Today we got into the business of final preparations for the mountain. We talked through the program and our priorities on the climb. We went over schedules and logistics and expected difficulties. And then we did gear checks (which everybody passed with flying colors). And finally, after folks had gotten packed up, we did the all important weigh-in to be certain nobody would be overloaded on the mountain. The work done, we relaxed around a campfire and ate a fine dinner in the Rivertrees garden. Tomorrow we climb!
The Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams, led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Jenny Konway, were unable to summit this morning. They stayed at Camp Muir due to high winds and rain. The teams will begin their descent to Paradise later this morning.
The Kilimanjaro Family Climb arrived in Tanzania and spent the day making final preparations and packing their gear for their departure on to the mountain tomorrow morning. Check out their video dispatch below.
RMI Guides Peter Whittaker & Seth Waterfall
Thanks Jake, Gilbert and Mike for your outstanding leadership on this climb. We all made it out safely, and that was the ultimate goal. It was great to meet new climbing (and ultimately drinking) buddies and friends. An awesome experience and we are a little older and wiser in the ways of Denali. We have some unfinished business, and I suspect some of us will be back to take care of things. Thanks again, guides! Vince
Posted by: Vince Vilasi on 7/1/2011 at 5:45 am
Thanks so much for generously allowing me to tie in on the descent. Both the folks that I roped up with, and the fantastic welcoming committee at 11,000’ were awesome!!!
Posted by: Leslie on 6/30/2011 at 12:10 pm
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