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Wednesday, February 26, 2025 - 6:04 am PT

 

RMI Guide Jess Wedel checked in at 6:04 am PT today to let us know the whole team was on the summit of Ixtaccihuatl at 17,340'.  They will send a blog later today once they descend to the trailhead and make their way to Puebla.  

Way to go team! Congrats!

Greetings from high camp at 19,600 ft! Today we made use of a good forecast and the first break in the wind in recent memory to move up. Now we are in striking distance of the top, getting ready for dinner before an early bedtime. The team again performed well getting here and if this calm weather holds, we will go for the top tomorrow! We've enjoyed everyone's comments and the crew is in great spirits having put forth an impressive effort so far. With any luck we will only head uphill for one more day before starting the long return to Mendoza. Wish us luck! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Thursday, June 20th, 2013 We made the move. The wind was blowing most of the night last night. I set my alarm for 2:30 a.m. just to see if the weather was going to allow us to move up camps. Right when my alarm went off, it was as if someone hit a switch and turned the wind off. We got up, packed up camp, and headed up another 3,000 feet. The move only took us about six hours to hike, but we had to work hard building snow walls once we arrived at Denali's 14k camp. This camp, as much or more than the other camps we have been in this far, can receive huge winds that pick up at a moment's notice. We used snow saws to quarry blocks of snow to make walls that surround our tents. All of this hard work will pay off with a full rest day tomorrow. The sun does not hit this camp until around nine in the morning. I am pretty sure that none of us will be out of our tents until he sun warms us up! RMI Guide Mike Haugen and the RMI Summit Team 6

On The Map

The Four Day Summit Climbs led by RMI Guides Andres Marin and Geoff Schellens were forced to turn at the traverse to the nose of the cleaver (11,000’) due to unstable snow. The teams performed snow tests which confirmed the snow instability. The weather this morning was clear but windy with gusts of 45 mph as the teams descended back to Camp Muir. The Expedition Skills Seminar – Muir led by RMI Guides JJ Justman and Pete Van Deventer are making their ascent to Camp Muir today to begin their week of training and climbing.

Mark Tucker here calling from Island Peak Basecamp. Had a wonderful stay at the resort in Chukung. Great evening, kind fellowship with other climbers from around the world. The hike up here took about 3 hours, and did very well and greeted by a staff that we've had in place. They've been here for few days, great dining and kitchen area, wonderful food, tents already set up. What a lap of luxury we walked right into. We did a couple hikes today to keep the blood flowing. The team is doing very well. Planning tomorrow to finalize details, get some gear sorted, and then we're gonna ship up to High Camp and get ourselves ready for the summit push tomorrow in the late evening. So the deal is on, we're doing great, and we'll talk to you later. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map

Clouds everywhere was the order of the day. We had basically cast any hope for flying out today right out the door. The forecast was bad. Through a sat phone call to Joe Horiskey, our boss at the office, I learned that the Talkeetna web cam showed nothing but dark masses of rain clouds backed up to the mountains. And, it was crappy up on the airstrip. Come about noon I did notice the sun barely visible above the dense clouds, and wagered we would be flying out that day. But it was a wager to boost flagging spirits as much as anything. We all took to some serious tent time to talk, read, listen or play cards. Then...the familiar drone of a plane comes into earshot. Maile looks at me but we figure it's just a tourist overflight high above us. We look out the window and can't believe it's coming in! No warning from Lisa the Basecamp manager or anything this time. And then...all hell breaks loose as everyone scrambles to get tents down and gear packed. By the time K2 gets in we're ready. Flying out, the brief weather window closes and I'm afraid we'll be turning back. Maile's knuckles are turning white with the trepidation we all feel as the visibility drops. It's snowing again. We fly out the long way out to avoid the more direct, but higher passes. But Chuck, our pilot, apparently had no desire to spend the night on the glacier, and we all make it out. Just in time. No other flights get back in that day! I'm finishing this final dispatch the next morning after devouring a huge steak dinner and drinking way too much of anything but water at the local watering hole, the Fairview Inn. We're on our way to Anchorage now where the team will part ways to reunite with loved ones. Leon, Maile and I have other plans. We're going fishing! See ya next year, RMI Guides Brent, Leon and Maile

The Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams, led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Jenny Konway, were unable to summit this morning. They stayed at Camp Muir due to high winds and rain. The teams will begin their descent to Paradise later this morning.

Thursday, June 13, 2013 RMI Guide Mike Haugen called from Talkeetna, Alaska this morning. The weather is beautiful and the team is packed and ready. They are loading their planes at the K2 Aviation Hanger and will be flying to the Kahiltna Glacier today. We wish them a safe and successful expedition on Mt. McKinley!

Our Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by Casey Grom and Eric Frank reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 7:40 a.m. PST. RMI Guide Thomas Greene reported clear and cold conditions on the top with winds of 20 - 25 mph and the cloud deck at 7500'. The teams spent some time in the crater and have started their descent back to Camp Muir. The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by Billy Nugent also reached the summit of Mt. Rainier. The team will spend the remainder of their time on the mountain training and plan to arrive back at Ashford Basecamp in the early afternoon on Friday. Congratulations to today's teams!

Mark Tucker checking in from the Barranco Camp, Kilimanjaro climb extraordinaire. Well, I'm looking at about ten jillion stars, beautiful night. Let's see here, about 10 days ago I think it was quite windy and a lot of dust. Not tonight, not today. Very comfortable climbing conditions and not to worry, the team is doing just fine. We are looking forward to the short hike tomorrow, a late start to let the other teams get a head start on this little more rocky climb section. Not to worry, doing great, having fun, wish you were all here. See you tomorrow. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map