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This is day 6 at Union Glacier. The weather is stellar, not a cloud in the sky, the first plane out to Punta Arenas flew out last night and we just found out that we won't fly tonight because the Punta Arenas airport is out of....fuel! Hard to believe, but so it goes. People are chomping at the bit to fly out but I really can't complain. My time at and around Union Glacier has been really amazing. I have done three new routes in the past three days on Mount Russman. One was an easy but steep snow couloir to the summit of Mount Russman (1428m). I left camp after breakfast in a full on white out, cold temperatures and snowy weather, but after missing out on climbing a new peak the day before with Seth and Jake, I wanted to climb no matter what. We - Gordon and Simon (two British Army men we had met on Vinson) and I - skied the flat 3kms to the backside of Mount Russman roped up and left our skis at the base of the face. We couldn't see the peak but decide for a couloir and made it to the top. I wish I could have seen camp 3000 feet below but the clouds prevented us from enjoying the view. Yet, it was a beautiful day just for being on the summit of the most obvious and closest peak to camp. Yesterday, we woke up to beautiful blue skies and warmer temperatures. Victor - my friend I did that first ascent with the first day at Union - was going up his 10th first ascent in two weeks and asked me if I would join him and guide Richard Parks, a famous British retired rugbyman who is trying to climb the seven summits and two poles in seven months. From camp, Mount Russman offers a plethora of steep snow and mixed lines and lots of the first ascents have gone down in the past two weeks, but there were still a few lines to plum. We headed for a V shaped line, which offered up to 65-degree snow and ice. It was Richard's first first ascent and I was so excited to guide him up it. He got to pick the route name: Gratitude. A beautiful name which describes perfectly how I also felt about climbing yet another new route in Antarctica and getting to be here all together with a great team and getting to hang out with amazing people. While I was climbing, Jake and Kent were also doing a first ascent on the same face and Seth skied from the summit, putting amazing tracks down the face, visible from camp. It was colder this morning and when Victor, his client Nick and I headed for what could be our last climb here, we weren't sure we should start up the climb in such polar temperatures. As soon as the wind died, it was warm again and we made quick progress up the 300 meters of snow and ice to the start of the route. There, the route switches from rock to ice and back to rock and is the only line angling left across the steep north facing wall (read south facing in the northern hemisphere). The rock was of poor quality but the line was so nice: I only wished I had more of these readily accessible lines in my backyard. We named it Diagon Alley, which coincided with finishing my audiobook, Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows. We headed back down to camp hoping for the news that we would fly out. Hopefully we will fly tomorrow. Otherwise, there are many other lines awaiting first ascents to keep us busy for another few days.

Monday, June 30, 2025 - 11:04 pm PT

Perfect day for moving on up.  We took advantage and climbed to 17,200. The team was already roped and moving toward the headwall at 8:30 AM when the cold shadows still covered the entire basin. We got much needed sun at the first rest break. It was a pleasure as always to top out the ropes at 16,200.  We broke into our cache for a few essentials... just to make sure the guide packs were heavy enough for climbing the West Buttress. The spectacular walk up the crest went smoothly for us and we rolled into 17,000' Camp at 3:15. As usual, it was tough to build a solid and safe camp at such a high elevation just after arriving. But we got it done and sat down to a nice dinner inside our dining tent. Snow conditions on the route to Denali Pass are still unstable so there is no chance for us to go for the summit tomorrow.

We'll keep evaluating to see whether we get a chance on following days.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Today we waited out the snow by having our own avalanche course right here on the Ruth glacier. Skies cleared to a beautiful evening during dinner. The team is excited to go explore some new terrain tomorrow under blue skies!

RMI Guide Dan May & Team

Friday, July 10, 2015 - 2:14 am PT Hey, This is Dave Hahn calling from 17,000 feet on Mt. McKinley. It's about 10 minutes after 1 in the morning. We had a big day yesterday, on the 9th of July. We summitted Mount McKinley! It was a beautiful day, start to finish, nice and calm and sunny, clouds down below. It was perfect climbing conditions, but it was hard climbing conditions, we had to break trail. We shared that work with a few of the other guided teams that were up here. That made all the difference; breaking trail through new snow and being able to trade off that job. But it still took a long time, I think we were out for 14 hours today. We were on the the top at 6:45 until 7:15. It was beautiful up there, really wonderful day, and all of our team made it. I believe that means that RMI is 100% for this season; all of the RMI summit teams have made it. That's just about it for the Denali season, the groups that we were going to the top with today were some of the last. I think there's maybe one more team that is a day from being in position. So far so good for us, we're up at 17k for now and we'll head off the West Buttress tomorrow. But, it really turned around, turned nice for us in these last couple days and we're very appreciative.

On The Map

Hi All, This is Geoff Schellens and Team down here in Mexico calling from the summit of Ixta! We had a wonderful climb a beautiful morning. Everything is absolutely as good as it gets. We are enjoying the sunrise right now. We are going to pack it up and head down shortly. We will give a call this evening. Adios!

The August 3 - 6 Summit Climbs led by Dave Hahn and Pete Van Deventer called down at 7:30 a.m. saying that they had reached the summit of Mt. Rainier. It was nice up top with light winds. The teams left the summit at 8:20 a.m. to descend back to Camp Muir. Congratulations!

After several days of training including a Mountaineering Day School and Technical training day, the RMI Emmons Seminar July 25 - 30 team began their ascent of Mt. Rainier.  Transferring to the White River Entrance the team set off from the trailhead with heavy packs to establish their first night's camp.  With nice temperatures and blue skies they continued their training, establishing camp, practicing crevasse rescue, setting anchors and belays.  The team ascended to Camp Schurman where they established their second camp.  This morning, with an alpine start, the team made a successful ascent to the summit of Mt. Rainier. The nice weather continues for them as they descend back to Camp Schurman. They will spend another night at camp before continuing down to the trailhead tomorrow. We look forward to hearing more about their adventure tomorrow afternoon when they return to Rainier BaseCamp.

Nice work team!

PC: Arianna Drechsler

A La Malinche summit!

Yesterday team Mexico Volcanos got up early and left Mexico City, hoping for an early departure from the trailhead for our first volcano, 14500 foot La Malinche. 

Recently, the Policía de Montaña, some of whom carry inappropriately large machine guns(tough to argue with), have been quite strict about turning all climbers around at 2pm, no matter your location or fancy technical outerwear. They mean well, as many folks attempt this very large mountain in jeans and street shoes, and seemingly no water or food. With our drive from Mexico City, it would be a push to make it, but the team was willing.

We left the park entrance with 4,500 feet to cover at around 11:30am. The team understood that it would be a little faster pace than normal to make it happen and evade la Policía, but they were up for it. 

At 3 pm, 3.5 hours and 4,500 feet later, we scrambled to the rocky summit of La Malinche with a beautiful view and not a cloud in the sky. There stood a single Policía de Montaña, who said simply, “Bajo por favor, ahora! (Down please, now!).”

We negotiated quickly for, “Solo una foto?(Just one photo?).” He was grumpy but willing, and as we took one picture of the team on the summit, the views were incredible of Volcan Iztaccihautl and Orizaba, our next two volcanos. 

Once we left the strict gaze of our friendly Policía on the summit, we were able to take some well earned relaxing breaks on our descent and enjoy the company of our new mountain dog friends, who showed us a thing or two about negotiating the loose boulder fields. 

A customary feast of barbecued steak and cactus tacos awaited us at our cabins in the forest below La Malinche, and it was an early bedtime!

The crew is super excited for our successful summit, and ready to hit the road and head to our next adventure, 17,159' Volcan Iztaccihautl!

RMI Guide Joe Hoch

Hello readers,

Sorry for the delay in dispatches. With some wonky internet and busy days it looks like we forgot Tuesday. So here is a recap of Tuesday and Wednesday. 

Tuesday we left Pheriche for Lobuche (the town). We woke to a new dusting of snow over the trail and mountains. The new coat made everything so white and fresh looking. The sun quickly started to melt the frozen earth as we made our way further uptrail. One teahouse stood between our two towns, so we stopped there for some tea and popcorn before we tackled a 700' vertical hill. On top of this hill is an emotional place, a climber's memorial. Many climber's names sit here. They came to climb the mountain but never made it back home. We all know how luckily we are to come out here and be among this beauty but also know this beauty has a wicked side and our ultimate goal is to make it home to our loved ones. It's a quick flattish walk to our next teahouse. It emerges from the rocks without warning. We rested for the afternoon before gathering for dinner and doing it all over again the next day. 

Today we picked up where we left off and left Lobuche for the last town before Everest Base Camp, Gorak Shep. There terrain takes on a different look as we get closer to the start of this valley. It's rocky and moon scape. Reminents of glaciers carving their paths. It's a relatively short distance vertically and horizontally to get to Gorak Shep. We make fast work of it and arrive for an early lunch. After lunch we do one more acclimatization hike up Kala Patar. On this hike we get amazing views of Everest and partial views of the ice fall. It is so beautiful and scary all at the same time. A scamper down as clouds roll in and a few snowflakes dance from the sky, wraps up our day. The team optimizes on a rest before dinner. It's cold and frosty up here when the sun disappears. Teams gather in the dining hall where the wood burning stove are but there is no wood to burn up here so instead dried Yak dung does the trick (and no it does not smell). After warming our bodies and filling our water bottles with hot water we lay down for one final rest in a teahouse before we hit Base Camp. 

Tomorrow is our day and Base Camp is our destination.

RMI Guides Hannah, Abby, and Team

Twenty four hours of flying high and fast brought our team of 12 to the end of the conventional planet.  We’re now assembled in Punta Arenas, Chile... ready to go the final leg of our journey to the unconventional planet.  Things look good for firing up the Gulfstream tomorrow morning to jump on down to Union Glacier in Antarctica.  With luck, we’ll then make the hop out to Vinson Basecamp in ski-equipped Twin Otters. 
 
We landed in Punta near mid-day today and got settled at the venerable old Cabo De Hornos hotel on the town’s central plaza.  We walked the streets for a bit, finding lunch and making our way to the headquarters of Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions for a briefing.  ALE is our partner and outfitter for the expedition and they got us up to speed on environmental safeguarding procedures and current weather predictions.  We then went back to exploring town.  There was the obligatory stop for pisco sours in the Shackleton Bar of one of the old, stately hotels on the plaza.  Then we found the perfect grill -a Parrilla-for a hearty patagonian dinner.   Finally, we watched the sunset light up clouds over Magellan’s Strait as we walked home.  Early start tomorrow.  Perhaps we’ll finish the day on Mount Vinson. 

Best regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn