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Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'
Monday, May 24, 2021 - 10:45 pm PT
Today was quite possibly the nicest day in the Alaska range that any of the guide team can remember. The last several days earned us a perfect, clear, calm day and as such the expedition cogs were churning all over camp. Teams that have been waiting to move to 14,000' Camp were busily taking down camp and teams that have been waiting to cache were saddling up to go. We already had packs loaded, so a quick breakfast got us going and then we were finally, FINALLY, climbing. The whole team climbed really strong, enjoying the chance to stretch our legs. A few stretches of walking got us to our cache location at 13,500', where we unloaded food and fuel, then enjoyed a light, quick jaunt back down to our 11,000' Camp. All told we had an easy six hours round trip. The forecast sounds like it's holding, so our intention tomorrow is to retrace our steps in the morning and head to our next home at 14,000'.
RMI Guides Pete, Chase, Matias, and team
Glad you see you got to move again today!
Posted by: Sheila on 5/25/2021 at 8:52 pm
Wow this is amazing to “watch”! Praying for the whole team’s success. You got this, Matt! Enjoy every step.
Posted by: Linda Baker on 5/25/2021 at 5:41 pm
On The Map
Mary , Almost there! Hope you are resting well. My heart is with you . Love you.
Posted by: Autumn Zentz on 7/25/2019 at 1:05 pm
On The Map
rain never stopped someone from Seattle glad you are starting the climb
Posted by: cornelia miller on 8/8/2013 at 7:48 pm
Posted by: Jess Wedel
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek and Lobuche
Elevation: 17,575'
Out here, we remember to marvel. It’s so easy to forget how incredible this planet is but when you wake up to go to the bathroom in the middle of the night at 17,500 ft and you are surrounded by a world of stars you can’t help but be in awe. That’s what these last two days have been like. We are amazed at the power of the ice and the glaciers around us, we can’t get enough of the stars at night, and base camp — to see a whole city built of tents in such a harsh and unforgiving place is pretty incredible.
Today we got to walk to the lower Khumbu ice fall and do some ice climbing and training for Lobuche. We learned how to use our ascenders (safety first!), how to rappel and how to climb training for Lobuche. We learned how to use our ascenders (safety first!), how to rappel and how to climb steep ice and snow.
I’m so impressed with everyone on this team and so excited to see what Lobuche has to offer us these next few days.
RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the climbing team
New Post Alerts:
Everest Base Camp Trek & Lobuche, March 16, 2024
Posted by: Jess Wedel
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek and Lobuche
Elevation: 17,575'
Thursday, March 27, 2025 - 6 pm PT
The whole team has made it to Everest Base Camp! A perfect day. There weren’t many people on the trail from Gorek shep and no huge yak trains so we made great time. We stopped at the base camp rock (which is the entry point to camp) took some photos and then walked another 45 minutes to our camp. Everyone was surprised at the size of camp - it’s over a mile long! And it’s on the edge of the glacier so imagine lots of rock on top of ice. We settled in with an amazing meal and got a tour of our home for two nights - dining tent, sleeping tents, bathrooms and even a shower!
We spent the afternoon staring up at the Khumbu icefall, the glaciers surrounding us, taking warm showers and just enjoying this remarkable place.
Everyone is so strong and doing great even at 17,500ft!
RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the Lobuche team
New Post Alerts:
Everest Base Camp Trek & Lobuche, March 16, 2024
Posted by: Steve Gately, Ben Ammon, James Bealer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
On The Map
Cheering for all of you guys and crossing fingers for a great summit weather over the next few days!
Posted by: Anna on 5/28/2019 at 3:49 am
Posted by: JJ Justman
Categories: Aconcagua
Aconcagua of course is one of the seven summits and at just under 23,000 feet it is the highest mountain outside of the Himalayas. It is the perfect mountain for climbers who want to get a start at expedition style climbing. The climb starts in the rugged, high mountain desert landscape where temperatures can be very warm. Mules carry our climbing gear the three day trek to base camp at Plaza Argentina. That means a couple of things: One, you get to trek into base camp with a light backpack; two, you get to hang out with the cowboys, also known as Arrieros, every night at the campfire; and perhaps most importantly, you get to experience a true Argentinian Asado as the cowboys cook steak and chicken over the campfire under the stars.
Once you arrive at base camp, most climbers are pleasantly surprised at how civilized it is. It’s very reminiscent of Everest Base Camp in that there are dining tents, toilets, and even showers. Since acclimatization is very important on such a high mountain, it certainly is nice to have some creature comforts and incredible support from a great base camp staff. The climbing above base camp is physically demanding. When I first climbed "The Stone Sentinel" in 1998 we only made two camps above base camp. Today RMI makes three camps. Camp One sits at 16,200 feet. Camp Two at 18,000 feet and Camp Three at 19,600 feet. With 20 summits of Aconcagua I have seen the success rate go way up due to the more strategic nature of making three camps. This acclimatization schedule helps to make our climbing teams much stronger, but the climb is still a lot of work!
I would love to explain to you how amazing the world looks up high on summit day, but it’s like every mountain I climb: you cannot fully explain the beauty of the high alpine world until you see it for yourself. As you stand on her summit and gaze out, you see a world that never ends; mountains beyond mountains as far as the eye can see. While you contemplate, it doesn’t take too long to begin to smile knowing that as soon as you get down, you are returning to the beautiful city of Mendoza to enjoy the hot weather and swimming pools, after an evening of dining once again on the most amazing food you’ll ever have in your life, that is!
Posted by: Seth Waterfall, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Northside
Elevation: 12,300'
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall checks in after the Mt. Elbrus summit attempt.
On The Map
James and team, based on your blog, time is running out for your climb to the summit. Trust that you will follow team’s prudent decision putting your safety a top priority. Hanging in there together.
Posted by: Soonja Choo on 9/2/2013 at 7:55 am
James and team
I suspect you are disappointed not being able to achieve a very important part of your trek. It’s hard to be in great shape, pumped-up and ready to reach a summit.
From reading your blog it doesn’t sound like your weather and conditions allowed you to safely reach the top of Mount Elbrus at this time. Many of us who choose to climb with RMI appreciate, admire and want guides and leadership that are able and willing to always put our safety first. I am sure I am not alone in thanking Seth and Pete for using such sound judgement. You are all so important to us.
Hang in there, support one another, focus on descending safely, and really try to enjoy the history, architecture and other beautiful aspects of St. P.
Fred K
Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 9/2/2013 at 6:57 am
Steve B and Brian S,
CONGRATULATIONS to you both!!! I knew you could do it! The Summit picture is awesome! :-)
Now trek down the mountain just as safely and come back to us.
XO
Posted by: Maggi on 8/26/2013 at 6:57 am
Dear Chris and Jessie…We’re anxiously awaiting news about your reaching the summit!!! Love Dad (papa) & Mama J
Posted by: joan & dad on 8/25/2013 at 6:21 am
Load up on Snickers, Swedish fish and whatever they are serving. Remember there are TWO summits this trip. Know you are very well prepared. Praying for good weather and be safe. We are anxious to hear about it. Kathryn
Posted by: Kathryn on 7/28/2011 at 1:49 pm
Hope the Snickers hold out! Wishing you much love and good luck. Renee
Posted by: Renee on 7/28/2011 at 11:36 am
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