The chatter of Sherpa staff waking up and getting going is the first thing I hear, then the sun hits the tent and it is time to get up. Basecamp is a busy place, but I always think of it as the place that is ruled by the rise and set of the sun. As soon as the sun hits, it is too hot to stay in the tent and once the sun recedes, it is too cold to stay out. I like the simplicity of that; I don't have to think too hard about where exactly to be.
If all goes well and the weather holds, this will be our final rest before the summit push. There is still so much to do, but plenty of time. At Camp 3 on the last rotation, it was a great test of how things will work, and what still needs to be done. Today, I look through the gloves that I can choose from for the summit bid. I scan my climbing clothing, seeing what needs to be washed one last time and what is ready to go. I count out the energy gels that I will use for the summit push, and tuck in a few packages of fruit snacks for good measure. Looking at all of this equipment, it is hard to imagine that in less than a week it will be tucked onto my body and my back, on my way to the summit.
Of course, so much has to line up. A week seems close, but in reality, it is still a world away. The weather has to be good, but also we have to feel good as climbers. Your body has to be strong and your mind open to the challenge that is ahead. On the summit push, I need to stay healthy, avoiding any stomach bugs or head colds that might be trying to come my way. If everything does line up, then you have to be open to the mountain's terms. If I have learned anything, it is that you have to come prepared with health and strength but also humility and openness. Nothing is assumed. You have to be prepared to take this experience and enjoy each step of it, knowing that the mountains will give you exactly what they want to - that is the beauty of it.
These are the thoughts that are roaming through my mind as final preparations are being made for the summit. Somewhere between being aware of what the mountain is telling us, and which gloves I should pack, I realize that all the preparations (the mental and the physical) are the part of the experience that I value so much, the part that I can take with me on the next adventure. But for now, I will focus on this adventure.
The Five Day Climb led by RMI Guides Dominic Cifelli and Daniel May completed their Orientation and Climbing School days and then ascended to Camp Muir on Saturday. Today they were able to do some training at Camp Muir, then packed up their gear and descended to Paradise. The team will conclude their program this afternoon at Rainier BaseCamp.
Saturday, June 22, 2019 8:28 PM PT
We had a very productive and somewhat relaxing day. Last night brought a bit of snow, but miraculously stopped right as our alarms went off this morning.
We left camp and headed down hill to do a back-carry. This just means that we went down to pick up the gear we cached at 10K. The group did great as they have proven to do every day so far!
After we returned to camp we cooked a great breakfast and worked on recovering by napping and sport eating.
Weather permitting, our plan is to cache food and gear at 14K tomorrow. The climbing continues!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team Siete
Our Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Peter Whittaker and Mike Uchal reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The teams reported a perfect day of climbing with light winds and sunny skies.
RMI Guide Mike King and his Expeditions Skills Seminar team also reached the summit of Mt. Rainier via the Emmons Route this morning. They will descend back to Camp Schurman and spend some more time training on the mountain before returning to Rainier Basecamp tomorrow.
Congratulations to today's teams!
My son Ira & I summited with Mike Uchal & Steve on the 23rd! It was a great day, great experience and we had 9 great members of our team along with Mike & Steve.
James was in our training class, all 3, true professionals! First attempt & made it at 60 years young!
Monday, August 12th 1:57 PSTRMI Guide Seth Waterfall sent a dispatch:
Hey, this is Seth checking in from high camp on Kili; it's a beautiful night, just after midnight and we are getting set to go for the summit. Everybody's putting their packs on. Hopefully, in 6 - 8 hours will be standing on top of Kilimanjaro. I'll check in then.
Monday, July 8, 2013
One of our better weather days of the trip. That said, it is snowing good and hard now at our 14,200 ft camp, but that isn't so important (yet). It was clear and calm this morning when we were interested in starting our carry up onto the West Buttress of Denali. By far, this was our coldest morning. We were guessing it was -10F or thereabouts. We started climbing at a quarter to 10 this morning in bright sunshine. The route goes uphill in a hurry out of 14 camp and we made steady progress toward the "fixed ropes". This steep and intimidating section of the climb was tough, as expected. Hard ice, 45 degree angles, unrelentingly uphill and airy feeling... but it was also spectacular when one was able to look up from the hard work for a moment to see the lower Kahiltna Glacier or Foraker across the way or the clean granite of Denali all around us. We reached the ridge crest (16,200 ft) at 2 PM and took a welcome break, gazing down at the Peters Glacier and the Northwest Buttress on the "other" side of our perch. Thus we broke Max's altitude record, which was momentous. But his was the only one to fall as our other climbers had previously topped mountains like Kilimanjaro and Aconcagua. All noted that 16,200 on Denali felt a little different than similar heights on other mountains. We cached our supplies and descended in gathering cloud and murk. We'd reached 14 camp by 4:30 and took a few hours to kick back and drink water before dinner. Tomorrow is a rest day, and a welcome one after four hard days of moving and acclimating to uncomfortable new altitudes.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Way to go guys! Sounds like conquering the headwall is an accomplishment all in itself. Something to celebrate in the POSH with your melted ice cocktails!!
Enjoy your very much deserved rest day, saving some energy and positive mental fortitude for the next leg.
Thanks Dave for describing the day so vividly!
Posted by: judychristofferson on 7/9/2013 at 11:08 am
Wow, Max! We are so impressed. Take care, climb safely and we are praying for good weather. Love, Grandma & Grandpa
Posted by: Bill & Caryl Reese on 7/9/2013 at 9:18 am
Today we set out to cache our upper mountain supplies above Windy Corner. As we finished breakfast and packed gear the wind blew snow around camp. Layered up and ready for the weather, we set out anticipating the gales that would greet us at the corner. Constant wind and snow tried to impede us but the crew dealt with the adverse weather like it was a summer stroll. As we pulled up to the fabled Windy Corner the weather was nicer than what we'd walked through to get there. We buried our gear there and pushed back through the nasty weather to 11 camp. Everyone did great and spirits are high.
Tomorrow we rest!
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
Ahh - a day of leisure in the rarified air. Well deserved after yesterday and a chance for the team to recharge.
Chris - continued best on the adventure and trust you remembered every last lyric on the Thriller album.
Pops
Posted by: Pops on 6/26/2012 at 4:53 pm
This is incredibly great! The team is working together and enjoying the experience. Hope the weather cooperates all the way up and back. Love Ya Tim. So proud of you!!
The streets of Kathmandu were hardly waking up when we reached the airport this morning, unloading our duffel bags outside of the the domestic terminal in the pre dawn darkness. By the time the morning sun found us, burning as an orange orb just above the eastern horizon, we were loading into a Twin Otter turbo prop plane, a STOL airplane - Short Take Off Landing - capable of landing at Lukla's narrow strip.
Besides some turbulence as we turned into the Khumbu Valley the flight was uneventful, a fact duly noted and much appreciated when flying a tiny airplane into a mountain airstrip like Lukla. Perched at a 10 degree angle and hardly more than several hundred meters long, the Lukla Airstrip is guaranteed to raise your heart rate - the plane touches down bearing full speed toward the hillside at the end of the strip, the brakes are slammed on and the engines roar as the air brakes fire, the plane decelerating from airborne to parked within a matter of seconds. It's exciting to say the least.
By 8:00 am this morning we were all safely in Lukla and we hit the trail shortly thereafter. To say that Kathmandu to Lukla is a change of pace is an understatement. Within minutes we looked at each other remarking at the novelty of hearing birds in the background, not taxi horns. The trail meanders down from Lukla among several villages, eventually reaching the base of the valley where we joined the banks of the Dudh Kosi - the Milky River named for the glacial sediment flowing in it. The trail is really the highway of the Khumbu, a boulevard of hand laid stone a few meters wide, that links the different villages. Passing by front yards bordered by small gates, past teahouses and chortens - Buddhist stupas and flapping prayer flags. Although the distance we covered today was relatively short compared to the days ahead, it felt full by the time we reached Phakding from all of the daily going ons of the Khumbu we saw.
We reached the teahouse as the clouds built in the sky. Before we could do anything we threw in our backs to help the teahouse owners raise their Chotra - a pine truck a dozen meters high that flies vertical prayer flags and serves as the entrance to most houses and compounds in the Khumbu. With a dozen locals, a few ladders and long poles, we managed to raise the Chotra to a vertical position and plant it in the ground. It was an entertaining way to be welcomed into the Khumbu.
We've spent the afternoon at the teahouse, watching periods of afternoon rain blow in. Tomorrow we climb to Namche Bazaar, the major trade center and biggest town of the region where we will spend a few days acclimatizing and exploring the surrounding area.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
Early this morning, the Four Day Climb teams, led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Dominic Cifelli, successfully reached the summit of Mt. Rainier!
They were treated to a stunning sunrise and clear skies as they stood at 14,410 feet, taking time to celebrate their achievement and soak in the incredible views. After savoring their moment at the top, the teams began their descent to Camp Muir around 7:00 a.m. and are now continuing down to Paradise.
We look forward to welcoming them back in Ashford later this afternoon and celebrating a safe and successful climb!
Top Ten Things Happening at 14,000' Camp right now:
10. Snow on the inside of the tent and blue skies outside the tent
9. Running out of snacks and entertainment (but we’re good on toilet paper)
8. Secret Aardvark
7. Buzz Lightyear sightings around camp
6. Walking laps and laps on the 14k Main Street
5. Walking out to the Edge of the World, which overlooks the Valley of Death, to take precarious photos*
4. Texas dice and Wizard
3. Welcoming the next RMI team coming up from 11,000' camp
2. New flavors of bowlines—on a bight, snap, etc.
1. SPAM
Sophia!!!!! You’re doing it, baby. Endlessly inspired by you. And your husband I guess sure ;)
Posted by: Sarah Bonkowski on 6/27/2025 at 6:14 am
Praying Denali gives you a shot. Amazingly proud of all of you! Hang in there and embrace the boredom you’ll be back in the chaos soon enough.
Onward and upward!
Posted by: Michelle DeMers on 6/25/2025 at 5:29 pm
Happy Birthday to Zach & Ian.
Aunt Lyn & Uncle Mick
Posted by: Carolyn Mason on 6/24/2019 at 1:11 am
Happy Birthday to Ian and Zach on June 24th.
Love, Yuri and Yoko (mom and Copper too!)
Posted by: Annette Prochaska on 6/23/2019 at 6:52 pm
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