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Elbrus Northside Climbers Reach High Camp

September 6, 2009

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Northside

Hello from high camp! The clear skies that formed yesterday held throughout the night and we woke to a perfectly bluebird day. Eager to take advantage of the weather, we wolfed down breakfast, broke down camp, packed our backpacks and headed out onto the glacier. Despite spending yesterday off of our feet in camp waiting out the winds we quickly found our climbing rhythm again and made great time as we ascended. By noon we reached our previous high point where we cached on Friday. There we found our gear, covered in a thin layer of ice from yesterday's winds, still lashed down amongst the rocks. A falcon, doubtlessly lured by our treats saved for summit day, was curiously snooping about when we arrived but took off after catching site of our band of Gore-Tex clad climbers. Thankfully the duffel bag that held everything kept the raptor at bay and we loaded the last of our gear into our packs for the final hour's climb into high camp. As we reached camp the low valley clouds, fueled by the midday heat, swirled up about us, at times blanketing us in a calm fog, other times parting to reveal the rest of the mountain looming above us. High camp sits at 15,200' perched amongst a band of black volcanic rocks running down from the east summit known as Lenz Rocks. Camp is quite exposed to Elbrus' infamous winds so we devoted a good amount of energy to establishing camp. As the clouds danced around us we went to work, chopping the ice out of the tent platforms, bolstering rock walls, and securely anchoring the tents. By mid-afternoon we were comfortably settled in our tents, sipping on water and doing our best to enjoy the rarified air of 15,200' and we had a couple of hours to rest and recover before dinner. As the evening shadows grew long off of the rock pinnacles standing guard above our tents we shared a hearty meal of vegetable lasagna before retiring to the sleeping bags for the night. Tomorrow we are planning to make our summit bid for Elbrus, leaving camp around first light. We will traverse below the east summit to the saddle at over 17,500' and then climb to the west summit. We are hoping to be standing on the highest point in Russia and all of Europe by around noon local time, about 1 am (Pacific) Monday morning. The team is feeling strong and excited about tomorrow's endeavor. Keep your fingers crossed that our perfect weather holds!

Mexico’s Volcanoes: Wedel & Team Reach Summit of Ixta

February 26, 2025

Posted by: Jess Wedel, Josh Geiser

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico

Elevation: 17,340'

Wednesday, February 26, 2025 - 6:04 am PT

RMI Guide Jess Wedel checked in at 6:04 am PT today to let us know the whole team was on the summit of Ixtaccihuatl at 17,340'. They will send a blog later today once they descend to the trailhead and make their way to Puebla.

Way to go team! Congrats!

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Peru Seminar: Davis & Team Train Near Basecamp

July 21, 2024

Posted by: Alan Davis, Tatum Whatford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

Elevation: 14,348'

July 20, 2024 - 5:45 pm PT

Woke with the sun and some good Peruvian coffee. The winds were quite strong and kept us tent bound initially. We spent the day resting and working on knots, hitches, and rappelling at our campside crag. After dinner it was early to bed for another alpine start as we attempt the valley’s namesake, Ishinca, in the wee hours of the morning.

RMI Guide Alan Davis

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Rest at 14,000’ Camp

July 1, 2013

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

One can call it a rest day, or weather day depending on perspective, but we took the opportunity of winds up high and snow, to rest up our legs for another day at 14,000' on Mt. McKinley. It hasn't been too bad here, with sporadic gusts of wind, some snow falling from the sky, and most snow just blowing around the ground. Our walls are doing their job, and nobody was complaining about a day of sport eating in the tents, getting our reserves up for the big push. We'd love to see this weather move out and give us our chance, as we are all ready, but with no control over that, we're going to patiently watch and wait. We'll let you know what happens tomorrow: we may still be sitting here, or we may be up at 17, getting ready for a summit bid! Send positive weather vibes our way! Best from the mountain, RMI Guides Pete, Geoff, Robby, and team

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Sending much aloha and sunshiny vibes from Maui! Sport eating doesn’t sound too bad, especially as you get ready for the big push. Go, Gail, goooooooo!
Jen Fordyce

Posted by: Jen Fordyce on 7/2/2013 at 2:34 pm

Good morning, Tommy! I hope you rested well last night and you woke to clear skies. I am praying for a great weather day to move up to High Camp. I miss you! Have an awesome day! Love always!
Rhonda

Posted by: Rhonda Kitchen on 7/2/2013 at 11:09 am

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Wait Another Day

June 12, 2013

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Wednesday, June 12, 2013 Today is unfortunately another out chill situation. Garrett and I woke about 6 this morning to continued strong wind from 16,000 feet and above. The nature of the climbing is steep and exposed. With wind and a very cold north east flow, the risk of frostbite and loss of balance from the wind gusts, we have chosen to stay another day and hope for less wind tomorrow. We try to conserve our lunch food and avoid the piggy tendency that sitting and waiting in the tents provides! The weather is clear and warm in most of Alaska, but at the altitudes we want to venture into, the jet stream is on! On a more positive note, RMI Guide Jake Beren and his crew pulled into camp this afternoon, making for a great meeting of the minds in our 14,200' home. We are excited to spend some time with friends and climbing partners from past trips, although we do have high hopes for a move tomorrow. Report back soon! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Jess and team,

Mother nature will cooperate, she is just having one of those days. Weather down here not much better. Keep up the spirits, it will get better.

Jess, miss you here! Keep up the great work.

Love, Hector

Posted by: Hector Valle on 6/13/2013 at 4:35 pm

Robin and Team!
Kudos to all of you for staying put and being safe! I have faith that conditions will be much better tomorrow and you will be able to move to your high camp.
Stay safe and stay warm and lots of prayers for your safe successful climb tomorrow. As the lyrics go “movin on up!” Look forward to your next blog from high camp!
Love DAD

Posted by: Matt Prosser on 6/13/2013 at 6:18 am

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Arrive to 11,000 Camp

June 10, 2013

Posted by: Jake Beren, Leon Davis, Josh Maggard

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Sunday, June 9, 2013 Tonight we will sleep well after three big days on the lower Kahiltna. We arrived to 11,000' camp in the early warmth of a new day and made camp easily. A strong performance by the team gives us great confidence in our abilities the higher we move and with a full day of rest tomorrow, we should only grow stronger. The rest day won't be entirely lounging about. We are going to review some tricks of the trade for motion on the upper mountain and ready loads for our carry towards our 14,000' Camp. So with a light snow falling onto our tents and the sound of other teams passing through camp, we say goodnight to our friends and family. RMI Guides Jake Beren, Leon Davis & Josh Maggard

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Looking good, Thanks for the wonderful updates and photos. B Safe and have fun! Kalispell Montana

Posted by: Jay Rocha on 6/10/2013 at 12:06 pm

Getting tremendous vicarious enjoyment from your trip! Keep up the fantastic work!!

Posted by: Nina Baj on 6/10/2013 at 11:43 am

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Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Camp Muir Update

June 5, 2013

Posted by: JJ Justman, Pete Van Deventer, Zeb Blais, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,200'

The RMI Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir Team led by JJ Justman and Pete Van Deventer are spending the week on Mt. Rainier doing some Denali Prep Training. The team is doing well and having a great time learning some advanced mountaineering techniques. The team plans to make an attempt at the summit early tomorrow. Best of Luck Team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good luck on your summit climb. Love you Daddy

Posted by: Z Team on 6/6/2013 at 9:01 pm

Expedition Skills Seminar Team, you are looking good! Best wishes for a summit tomorrow!

Posted by: Joyce Dowell on 6/5/2013 at 5:59 pm

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Everest Base Camp Trek: Grom & Team Return to Kathmandu

April 6, 2013

Posted by: Casey Grom

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek

Elevation: 4,383'

Kathmandu! It's been quite the adventure the last few weeks. Today the team left the beautiful and peaceful Khumbu and caught our morning flight back to the busy city of Kathmandu. The team spent the day lounging by the pool, resting in our rooms and catching up with emails and news. Everyone is doing well and excited about returning home to family and friends. We finished the day off with pizzas and long fresh salads. RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew

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Mt.Rainier: August 15th High Winds Keep Group from Summit

August 15, 2013

Posted by: Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,080'

The Four Day Summit Climbs August 12 - 15, 2013 led by RMI Guides Eric Frank was unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Strong winds and precipitation prevented the teams from climbing. The teams checked in from Camp Muir shortly after 7 am where they were safe and warm in the Muir hut. The teams will descend from Camp Muir to Paradise this morning. The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz led by RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos was unable to summit this morning also. They will spend today training on the mountain. Tomorrow they will descend to Paradise and complete their program. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp.

Mt. McKinley: Haugen and Team Sport Eating at 11,000’

June 18, 2013

Posted by: Mike Haugen

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Tuesday, June 18, 2013 We are getting beautiful weather day after beautiful weather day! We retrieved our cache from 10,000ft. We are now set to bring a load up to around 14,000ft. This will be great for our acclimatization since it fits into the climb high and sleep low model. The team has really been doing a great job of taking care of themselves. We are doing a lot of sport eating and drinking as we sit around camp. I am usually a hydration nag, but this crew is on top of it! Stay Classy North America! RMI Guide Mike Haugen

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So great to hear you have good weather. The pictures are amazing. Keep trucking. Love, mom and dad.

Posted by: Kathie Constantine on 6/19/2013 at 8:51 pm

Grasshopper, Big Steve, & Quiet Sandra - Cheers! Hope you’re enjoying a few rewards after work? That is along with proper hydration. Keep it up! Remember, hills are your friends!! Mtn Mo

Posted by: Mtn Mo on 6/19/2013 at 7:36 pm

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Most Popular Entries

Elbrus Northside Climbers Reach High Camp

Mexico’s Volcanoes: Wedel & Team Reach Summit of Ixta

Peru Seminar: Davis & Team Train Near Basecamp

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Rest at 14,000’ Camp

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Wait Another Day

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Arrive to 11,000 Camp

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Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Camp Muir Update

Everest Base Camp Trek: Grom & Team Return to Kathmandu

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Mt.Rainier: August 15th High Winds Keep Group from Summit

Mt. McKinley: Haugen and Team Sport Eating at 11,000’

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