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Aconcagua: Day 2 of the Approach, Casa de Piedra

Greetings from Casa de Piedra, at 10,600' in the Vacas valley. We woke this morning to clear blue skies and cool temperatures after yesterday's rain. The cloudless day lifted our spirits and dried our gear as we had a delicious breakfast of eggs with cheese & peppers, fresh oranges, and hot chocolate. We packed our gear for the mules and loaded up our day packs for the trek from Leñas to Casa de Piedra, and headed up the valley. The sunny skies kept us warm as we passed guanacos and liebres (Argentine jackrabbits), and the team strolled into camp feeling strong and excited for the challenges ahead. While the wind has picked up since our arrival, we're anticipating another beautiful day tomorrow on our way to Basecamp at 13,800'. It will be an early night tonight and an early morning tomorrow, but the stoke is high and we feel good about what lies ahead. We'll check in tomorrow - until then, keep sending the positive vibes! Cheers, Garrett and the RMI Aconcagua Expedition
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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Reach Basecamp

Tuesday, July 4, 2023 - 11:57 pm PT

Long day, but it ended with us reaching basecamp safe and sound, so it was a very good day. The start was hard, it was still snowing and blowing as we packed. There was a lot to do since our gear had been buried under a few feet of fresh snow. We set out at 9:40 in a whiteout, working by Braille and GPS. The first three hours were like that, pushing through endless new snow. We started to come out of the storm below ski hill, but conditions were quite mushy. Our snow shoes were sinking in, which made finding crevasses fairly difficult. We trudged on in surreal lighting as the clouds came and went. Heartbreak Hill didn't break any hearts. We were happy to be on the home stretch. We pulled in to basecamp at 6PM. It was all ours for a few minutes. Dominic Cifelli's team pulled in just behind us, but otherwise, camp was empty and gone, closed up for the season. Weather didn't permit a flight so we camped.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Hey Dustin and Dave! Awesome job getting your team back to basecamp! You guys Rock!
Farmer Dave

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 7/6/2023 at 4:48 am


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Hold Tight Due to Weather

Saturday, May 29, 2021 - 10:25 pm PT

The weather that was forecast to show up, came in the late morning. Everyone enjoyed quality tent time with movies, cards, and even some song writing. Stay tuned for the artists debut. We see improving weather conditions in the forecast, and are hoping to make some moves in the coming days.

RMI Guides Matias, Chase, Pete, and team

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Praying for better weather to continue your journey. Praying for you, Luke and all of the team!

Posted by: Rae Wilson on 5/30/2021 at 7:19 pm

I have been following the blog everyday with growing excitement when you have a climbing day.  Sounds like everything is going good. Be safe. Mom

Posted by: Becky smith on 5/30/2021 at 1:17 pm


Alaska: Elias & Team Successfully Climb Moose’s Tooth

And we flew out! We got in a day early, and flew out a day early too, as to secure our exit off the glacier with the great weather we had: the runway at the Root Canal Glacier is no major airport where to secure a flight under the action of the elements. The trip ran very smoothly, and we're happy to have tackled this ultra classic line, "Ham and Eggs" up the Moose's Tooth, which is without a doubt, a haunting peak in the Alaska Range. Vanessa and Taylor trained the necessary technical skills not only to overcome the difficulties of the route, but to shine for the hours on end that climbing 3,000ft of steep ice, snow and mixed terrain entails in the remoteness of this environment. Now the team has parted ways, and we feel proud and accomplished. Regards from Anchorage! RMI Guide Elías de Andrés Martos
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Mt. Everest Expedition: Team is Holding at Base Camp

The storm may be coming to an end. We hope. It was still snowing yesterday, and predictions had it continuing today, but despite a great deal of cloud and moisture in the air... we've got sunshine on Everest Base Camp. There is no climbing activity in the Icefall today out of respect for the Nepali men who -one year ago- lost their lives in the avalanche off Everest's West Shoulder. This somewhat grim anniversary has been made a little worse by our recent inability to get through the glacier. The reasons... bad weather and shifting glacial ice, are perfectly normal in this game, but against the backdrop of last year's season-ending tragedy, the barrier to the Western Cwm seems more formidable than ever. Early yesterday morning I accompanied our Sherpa team into the start of the difficult sections, but we along with perhaps 70 Sherpas from other teams had to turn around when a combination of vertical ladders was discovered to have been destroyed by shifting ice. We were back in camp before the normal wakeup and breakfast time... and it must be admitted that sitting in a chair sipping coffee beat balancing over treacherous and tedious crevasse crossings, but... as I say, it would have been a major boost to morale and to the team's progress to have made Camp One. That will now have to wait until the route is repaired and the storm has exited. It will happen. In the mean time, our team is simply in the same situation as a couple dozen others... maintain mental and physical readiness. We did it yesterday afternoon by going on a brisk hike toward Pumori Camp One. Today, it seemed best to give the team their freedom... some chose a hike down to the tea houses of Gorak Shep, some chose showers and good books in basecamp. Realistically, there will be more waiting to endure. The Icefall Doctors need to do a fair bit of work to make the route passible tomorrow and the climbing teams have decided not to crowd them in their labors. So we'll wait. And we'll be ready when our chance for climbing comes. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Pardon the typos and bad “cut and pastes”. I’m just so excited, and interested in the challenges facing Emily, and all of the climbers up there this year, and with the new Khumbu icefall routefinding (so important right now). May all the Buddhas, Bodhis, Arhats, and Tulkus, past present and future, be with the Sherpas and climbing teams as they move forward and upward. :)

Posted by: Susi Johnston on 4/19/2015 at 7:00 am

I’m writing to you from my home in Bali, Indonesia. Just to say three cheers for RMI, always a solid team of solid climbers. The RMI legacy of Everest pioneers and the amazing training ground you have on Mt. Rainier is unsurpassed. Just one favor I need to ask. Can you kindly go find my sister Emily Johnston at IMG the basecamp tents and give her an enormous hug and lots of love from her big sister, Susi in Bali? And please, ask her if she is wearing Bruno’s gold talisman. Thanks. Emily as an IMG and RMI seasoned guide is always so totally focused on the climb, the mountain, and the team, to “waste time” sending messages out. :) x x x

Posted by: Susi Johnston on 4/19/2015 at 6:54 am


Mt. McKinley: Mike Walter and Team Retrieve their Cache

The weather was beautiful today, sunny and warm, and barely a breath of wind. We took a quick trip back to Windy Corner (13,600') to retrieve the cache we left there well over a week ago. The hike back to the cache took us 15 minutes, and about an hour to ascend back to the 14,200' camp that we established yesterday. The rest of the day was spent buffing out camp and practicing fixed rope travel techniques in preparation for tomorrow. Tomorrow we plan on carry supplies up above 16,000' to get ready for our summit bid. The weather looks good for the next few days; hopefully the forecast pans out. Tomorrow will be two weeks into our expedition, and we're all excited to get up high soon. We'll let you know how our carry goes. Stay tuned... RMI Guide Mike Walter & Team

On The Map

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Mt. Rainier: August 21st Summit!

Our Four Day Summit Climb Team led by Adam Knoff reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. There was a cloud cap with a bit of wind on top, but as the team started their descent the cap was beginning to dissipate and the weather was getting clear. The team is en route to Camp Muir and expected back to Ashford Basecamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's team!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations Adam, hope all is going well,
Thinking positive thoughts for the rest of your
time at RMI MOM

Posted by: Jane Knoff on 8/22/2012 at 8:22 am

Congratulations Bob!

Posted by: Audrey on 8/21/2012 at 11:18 am


Mt. Rainier: August 4th Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climbs led by Brent Okita and J.J. Justman reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. It is a beautiful day on Mt. Rainier, the teams experienced light winds and clear skies. They were beginning their descent from the crater rim at 7:30 a.m. en route to Camp Muir. The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz July 31 - 5 August led by Jake Beren reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The team has returned to their high camp and will spend their last night on the mountain. They will do some additional training before returning to Paradise tomorrow afternoon. Congratulations to today's team!
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From the top of Cayambe

Hey, hey, hey RMI. This is Casey and crew on the summit of Cayambe! Great day yesterday. Everyone slept well last night and we got up about midnight again. Took us about 6 1/2 hours to summit. Clear, windy and cold today. Both trips have been real tough. These guys are real troopers and did a great job. We'll check in again when we get back to Quito.
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Denali Expedition: Cifelli & Team Build a Fortress at 14k

June 24, 2023 10:19pm PT

Good morning from 14k camp!

After a hard-earned, good night’s rest, we woke up to frosty air, clear skies, and no wind. We began our descent past windy corner to retrieve our cache and were reminded once again of its namesake. The team, feeling strong, made quick work of our retrieval, and arrived back at camp in good style.

The day was far from over.

Anticipating a storm, we got to work fortifying our camp with the deepest posh this world has seen and some snow walls that would make the Great Wall proud. We let the rivalry of our two challenging snow block quarries bring out the best in us. Mother Nature is hard to beat but we might as well try. Now we wait and see what Denali and the weather will let us do. Passing the time by enjoying each other’s company and eating some tasty snacks.

But not too many, we might be here for a while…

RMI Guide Dan May

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