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Mt. Rainier: Four & Five Day Summit Climbs Reach Summit

The Four Day Summit Climb led by JJ Justman was approaching Mt. Rainier's crater rim at 6:50 am along with the Five Day Summit Climb led by Mark Falendar. JJ reported clear skies above and light wind. The teams will return to Camp Muir and then continue their descent to Paradise. The Expedition Skills Seminar – Kautz climbed through the Kautz ice chute this morning. Their team made good work of the route and they were going to enjoy a short break off Wapowety Cleaver as this will be their high point for the trip. The team will return to Ashford later today. We look forward to seeing the teams back at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's Four and Five Day Summit Climb teams!
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Looks nice sittin on top of the world!  Can’t wait to hear about it.

Posted by: Brian Worthington on 6/19/2014 at 2:57 am

So sorry you were unable to summit, Justin.  Glad you and the team were able to do the ice chute.  Very proud of you and anxious to have you back home, where it’s 90 degrees!  Love , Mom & Dad

Posted by: Mom on 6/18/2014 at 6:33 pm


Aconcagua:  Justman and Team Rest at Base Camp

Today is another rest day for the team at Plaza Argentina. After our carry to Camp 1 yesterday it serves us well to take advantage and fully acclimatize. The team is doing really well. The agenda for today is resting, eating and taking showers. Everyone on the team says hello to family and friends... RMI Guide JJ Justman

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JJ and Team:
So very good to hear all is well as you journey along!
Praying for your spiritual journey as well as your physical safety. Take a moment if you can to…
“Fall on yours knees, and Hear the Angel voices! (On this) Night Divine!
Blessings from David’s Mom

Posted by: Ruth Sorensen on 12/24/2013 at 2:39 pm

“One does not climb to attain enlightenment, rather one climbs because he is enlightened.” - Zen Master Futomaki

Posted by: Bill Gately on 12/23/2013 at 3:47 am


Mt. Kilimanjaro: Tucker & Team Arrive at Their Last Camp

RMI Guide Mark Tucker checking in from the final camp: down here at the Mweka Camp, 10,000 ft on Kilimanjaro. It’s all tall, giant heather; it’s beautiful. It looks like a fabulous night for a summit climb but that’s exactly what we will not be doing. It’s a done deal. We will enjoy our last night on this beautiful mountain. Tomorrow we head to the trail head.

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Great achievement for all specially for those that live at sea level

Posted by: Alberto Sr. on 7/22/2013 at 5:41 am

Hey I agree with Ana!  You guys rock!!! Especially the Mexican guy!  Hahaha

Posted by: Jasmin on 7/22/2013 at 2:23 am


Mt. Rainier: July 13th Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Tyler Jones and Garrett Stevens reached the summit of Mt. Rainier shortly after 7:30 am PT. They enjoyed clear skies and a new route. The teams spent some time on top taking in the views before making their way back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
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Hey Tyler, You helped me summit with my friend Chris Johns in 2009. I’d like to bring my son Nick (15 next year a boxer and crossfit athlete) up Rainer via DC route.

CAn you reach out and we can start to set up an expedition. .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address)

Thanks!

Posted by: Sean Fay on 8/22/2013 at 2:31 pm

Way to go Dave Meyers!  Thank you, Tyler for always keeping him safe!  Way to go “Team Pulte” and Tom….so proud of you guys!

Posted by: Amy on 7/14/2013 at 8:16 pm


Mt. Elbrus: Grom & Team Summit Highest Point in Europe!

We did it! The whole team managed to stand on the highest point in Europe this morning. Everyone did a fantastic job of taking care of themselves and pushed hard in the thin air. It was a beautiful day for sure, in fact it was the nicest summit on Elbrus I've had. Not too cold and just the slightest breeze. We spent about a half hour on top then quickly descended all the way back to the Barrels. After a quick lunch, we packed up and made our way back down to Cheget to our hotel where everyone ran for the first shower in days. The team is doing great and are looking forward to some much earned sleep. RMI Guide Casey Grom and the summiteers

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Congrats guys, Reading about your climb was amazing. I can’t wait to start climbing those higher peaks. And Casey, I’m excited to meet up with you and Syd. Congrats again on the climb.

Posted by: Jay on 7/18/2013 at 9:53 pm

Congrats Larry and team!! Great job and the summit pic is awesome as well. Here’s hoping your already down safely.

Posted by: Paul Kinneberg on 7/14/2013 at 11:56 am


Cotopaxi Express: Nugent & Team Check in from the Chilcabamba Eco Lodge

Hey there! This is Billy calling in with our dispatch for July 3rd. The team woke up pretty early here in Quito. We got out of the hotel pretty quickly after a nice breakfast. We headed south of town to the Illinizas which is a really cool park to do another training hike. We ended up hiking for a few hours, climbing up above 15,000’. We made it to a Refugio which sits right in the saddle between Illiniza Norte and Illiniza Sur. We had some hot drinks then cruised on down. The team performed super well and so we were really psyched. After that we descended where Victor, our driver, rendezvoused with us again at the trailhead and we headed up to the Chilcabamba Eco Lodge where we had a fantastic meal and an awesome night! We are really enjoying the super, super bright full moon and amazing views of Cotopaxi which is our next big adjective. Tomorrow we are planning on heading that way, towards Cotopaxi, so we will give you a call and let you know how things are developing. That’s all for now, bye. RMI Guide Billy Nugent


Billy Nugent checks in from Chilcabamba Eco Lodge

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Mountaineering Training | My Go-To Workout

There is no way around it: there are some days where fitting my planned workout into my schedule is impossible. On the days when chores and errands catch up with me and I don’t have much time to do a workout, I have a go-to workout that I know I can do in 45-50 minutes. On a day when life feels too busy and I’m tempted to blow my workout off, having a quick workout ready helps me to stay motivated and get out the door. My workout involves a short, 10 minute running warm-up, 15 minutes of short intervals, a 5-10 minute cool-down, and a short series of core exercises. Depending on what phase of training I am in and what my goals are, I may alter the pace, number, or duration of my intervals. During my aerobic building phase, I might run at a tempo that is slightly slower than my 5k race pace for 2 minutes, recover at a light jog for 1 minute, and repeat 4 more times. This bump in pace helps to mix up my tempo and keeps my legs feeling a bit quicker, but the effort isn’t so hard that I’m building up large amounts of lactic acid. Later in the season during an intensity phase, I might push the pace of those intervals right to my threshold, or do shorter 1 minute, all out efforts, with a full minute of recovery in between. This helps to build my anaerobic threshold, and develop my ability to recover as well. The warm up and cool down are really important for preventing injuries, and I try to resist the temptation to skip or cut short either. The light core session to close doesn’t necessarily build a lot more strength, like a dedicated strength session would be designed to do, but it gives me maintenance. I mix up the exercises, but an example workout might be:
  • 3 sets of 50 crunches
  • 3 sets of 20 pushups
  • and 3 sets of 20 dips
I always end this workout with the same series, something that we used to call a “super set” on the college ski team. It consists of:
  • 100 crunches (feet on the ground, curling my torso towards my knees, but not a full sit-up)
  • 50 sit-ups to the side (alternating sides)
  • 25 leg raises (some straight on, some to either side)
  • and 100 more crunches to finish
Having one piece of my routine that is exactly the same each time lets me develop a benchmark for how my core strength is feeling. While your go to workout doesn’t need to mirror this, try to develop a workout that has definitive goals. If your time is pressed, a short series of intervals will be more beneficial for your fitness than a 30 minute easy jog, most of the time. Having some goals allows you to be focused during the workout, even if it is just for a short period of time. Your go-to workout can be any genre: cycling, running, swimming, or spinning are all good options depending on where you live and can do readily. Remember to build up your strength over time; trying to jump right into a “super set” tomorrow if you haven’t been doing a lot of core strength is a recipe to get injured. Good luck with your training, and stay motivated: it will pay you back in enjoyment many times over on your next climb! _____ Pete Van Deventer is a senior guide at RMI Expeditions, guiding climbs on Mt. Rainier, Mt. McKinley, and abroad. He calls Aspen, CO home, where he also teaches avalanche courses and is a fully-certified ski instructor.
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Kilimanjaro: Seth Waterfall & Team Summit!

Hey, this is Seth checking in from the top of Kilimanjaro! It's a beautiful day here to be on the Roof of Africa. Zero wind. We got up here right in time for sunrise, and just an awesome day of climbing. The crew did so good. I had to slow them down. They were going too fast so we took some extra breaks just to reel them in. Great crew, great day. It's beautiful up here and now we are going to flip it around and head back to our low camp at 10,000 feet. So, 9,000 feet to go downhill for us, but we should have a great day. That's it from the top of Kili! RMI Guide Seth Waterfall


Seth Waterfall calls in from the Roof of Africa, Kilimanjaro.

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How exciting for you all. It must have been breath taking. Hope you got some pictures Mark. Much love Mom

Posted by: Cornelia Miller on 8/13/2013 at 8:55 pm

Awesome! You made it. Hope you got some pictures from the top, and at sunrise—how special. MA

Posted by: Mary Ann on 8/12/2013 at 10:11 pm


Aconcagua: Justman & Team Carry to Camp 2

Hello everyone this is Team #1 on Aconcagua, Today we went from Camp 1 to Camp 2. We carried some of the gear we will need higher on the mountain making a cache of gear. Everyone did a great job getting up to 18,100’ we hung out for a little bit and then we enjoyed a beautiful walk back down here to Camp 1 at 16,500’. Everything is going very well a little bit of a breeze, but that is not too bad. We are just resting and recovering now. We will be taking a full rest day tomorrow which has been well deserved. We have a few surprises for the team tomorrow a smorgasbord of food, but we will get into that tomorrow when we get in touch with the RMI Blog and let you know what we do to hang out at 16,500’ having just a great time. Things are going very well here; it is really nice to be higher in the mountain. Great views! We will talk again very soon. Thanks for following along. RMI Guide JJ Justman & Team


Justman and Team check in after Carry to Camp 2

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I enjoy the posts and am glad everyone is doing well.
Wish I was there. Next one?

I will keep Ballard in check for you Mike, until you get back!

Climb on buddy,

Mike

Posted by: Mike on 12/13/2012 at 2:59 pm


Life at Everest Basecamp

There are two distinct sounds that jar me away from the day to day life at Basecamp and instantly remind me of the sobering landscape in which we are living. The first starts as a low grumble, like a distant roll of thunder moving up the valley, then turns to a deep guttural roar that shakes through camp. It is as if the mountains themselves are groaning under the weight of their icy loads and they shift to ease their burdens. At the head of the Khumbu valley and surrounded by a full 270 degrees soaring peaks, Basecamp is ringed by steep flanks of rock, ice, and snow. The panorama surrounding Basecamp is stunning as some of the world's highest peaks rear up directly above. Beginning with the hanging glaciers flowing from Pumori's almost perfect conical summit, and stretching over Lingtren, Cholatse, Lho La Pass, Everests' West Ridge, the Khumbu Icefall, and Nuptse's impressive West Face, the Himalayas dwarf Basecamp. And from these faces comes the deep groans. It is the sound of falling ice and rock as the glaciers hanging high on the mountains above calve off, sending tons upon tons of ice crashing down the faces below. From Basecamp the first distant grumble echoes across the valley, growing in intensity as the falling chunks gain speed, breaking apart as they hit the mountain sides and dispersing into fine clouds of billowing ice crystals. These clouds of ice blast across the valley floor, like the smoke from a canon as it discharges its deadly load, billowing up in boiling white curtains that rushes through Basecamp. The second sound is so sudden that I often question whether I heard it at all. It is a quick and sudden, loud, sharp crack. It passes through camp like a bolt of lightening, often leaving me clutching my morning cup of coffee, a bit startled and shaken. The Khumbu Glacier, upon whose edges Basecamp sits, flows in an incessant icy march downward from the peaks above, continually adjusting and repositioning itself. With water this results in a continuous flow, but with ice, it is a jerky, spontaneous, and unpredictable dance downward. The ice reaches the point where it can no longer bear the tension and in a loud crack it readjusts itself, however imperceptibly to the casual observer. These creaks and cracks that run through the ice underfoot can be muffled, occurring deep in the ice below, or alarmingly loud, their vibrations running through the ice and startlingly me from sleep. However harmless they are in retrospect, they never fail to startle, always causing me to pause and look around. The bustle of activity that makes up Basecamp can distract from the reality of the place. It is a short-lived settlement on a continually shifting sea of ice and rock. Five months ago, when I came to Basecamp during the waning days of November to establish RMI's Basecamp location for the First Ascent Expedition, the site I stood on was almost undistinguishable from the other parts of the glacier. A few flat stones positioned a bit too precisely to be random, a couple of icy shelves suspiciously sized to fit a tent, a half collapsed rock wall, were the only clues to the excitement and activity the place had seen six months before, and would see again soon. Instead of the gathering of nylon tents I see around me now, Basecamp was a frozen desert. Dunes of ice strewn with a blanket of rocks, like a stormy sea whose waves were frozen in the midst of a tempest. Yet now, the same place is a hub of activity, a village of clusters of brightly colored tents, connected by narrow paths, continually flattened by the boots of climbers and the hooves of yaks that pass along them. Above hang strings upon strings of prayer flags fluttering in the winds. Their bright colors never cease to mesmerize me, breaking apart the drab palette of grays and whites that surround us. Friends and other expedition members stop by to say hello, and the days pass, settling into a routine that borders on normality. Despite falling into the habit of day to day tasks at Basecamp, the distant roars of the mountain sides and the loud cracks that race through Basecamp instantly remind me of the reality of this place, of the immense size and power of the mountains at whose feet we live. Soon, all of this activity will retract back down the glacier, back down the valley and disperse across the world. The stormy frozen sea will continue to buck and roll and gradually the ice will reclaim its shape, leaving few clues of its recent past. The deep roar of ice fall high on the mountain sides and the sharp cracks of the ice itself will echo across an empty landscape of ice and stone.
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