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Vinson: Freezing on Vinson

Did I say Antarctica wasn't cold? Well, I was just kidding. Antarctica, especially high up with a stiff wind, is really, really, really cold. Our day today started reasonably enough, with a bright sun high in the sky and reasonable temperatures for walking. The team moved well out of High Camp along the seemingly endless glacial valley leading toward Vinson's summit. About 2 hours into the journey, Vinson decided to give us a little test. The wind began to pick up, and suddenly we could all feel the frigid cold biting at any exposed skin and dropping our core temperatures degree by degree. Time to layer up. In moments, we all donned our custom Peak XV Antarctica down jackets and pants, shutting the wind and cold out, at least somewhat. But, it gets tricky in situations like this. The thick down insulates well, and keeps you warm and toasty. But, you still have to move uphill, and that generates heat. Too much heat, and you start to sweat. Sweat out your baselayers, and you're going to get cold sooner or later. So, climbing in these situations is an exercise in zipper running, hat pulling, and sleeve pushing; it is a constant battle to maintain that thermal equilibrium, right on the line between too cold and too hot. With that obstacle added to our climb, we kept moving, everyone doing well and chugging right along. Before long, the route made a sharp right-hand turn, and began climbing steeply toward the summit ridge. And, now, Vinson decided to show us what she could do. The temperature had dropped as we ascended, to about -30 degrees C on the summit ridge, and then the wind really picked up. We estimate about 30 miles per hour fairly consistently...In other words, enough wind and cold to make it the coldest day I've ever experienced on any mountain, anywhere. And, Ed Viesturs, who's got a handful of cold mountains under his belt, agreed that it was the coldest summit day in his memory. That's cold. We were close now, though, and kept pushing onward, trying to check cheeks, noses, ears, etc., for frostnip - which can come on quickly in such conditions. Along with the wind, Vinson's final curveball was the largely-moderate terrain of the lower mountain finally transitioned to a steeper, more exposed ridge for the final push. But, it was manageable, and soon we were all celebrating and shivering on top of Antarctica. I've been fortunate enough to travel to some unique places and mountains over the years, but must admit that Antarctica, and Mount Vinson, is one of the most spectacular. To gaze out from the summit at the jagged peaks of the Ellsworth Mountains, which eventually yield and give way to a vast sea of glacier, is simply beyond words. We spent a few minutes on top, taking pictures, congratulating one another, and of course pulling out the 1966 Alaska Flag for it's final foray on the summit of Vinson. And, then, it was time to go. It's too easy to linger on such summits, and in the abusive cold and wind, we needed to get down fast. Everyone moved well downhill, and we're all now in our tents, enjoying the warmth of a sunny tent and a full belly. Sleep will come quickly tonight, and will be well earned by all. Tomorrow...well, there's still work to be done. All our gear needs to somehow make its way from High Camp down the fixed lines and all the way to Vinson Basecamp. We'll sleep well, and work hard tomorrow. And, yes, in case I ever forget, Antarctica is COLD!! -Jake Norton
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Aconcagua: Smith and Team Bask under the Stars for their final mountain night

Howdy howdy,

We woke up for the last time on the mountain.

We opened our eyes to a frosty dome tent as we packed up our sleeping bags and got ready for breakfast. Today, we headed down the valley towards the park entrance. 8hrs and 17miles later, we arrived at Lenas, our first camp we stayed at 16 days ago.

We started our expedition with a carne asada dinner and ended it the same way. Bellies full of steak, potatoes, veggies, red wine. Our bellies no longer rumble and are now instead very full. The team earned this glorious meal cooked by a spectacular chef. With a light breeze we are headed to our sleeping arrangements, some in tents, others sleeping under the stars.

It's a surreal moment looking back at being at 19,600' just yesterday and now sleeping on the valley floor. Tomorrow, we finish our trek out to the gate entrance, concluding our 17-day trip up and down Aconcagua. Everyone is ready and excited for the hotel amenities - top on the list is a shower, a reliable toilet, clean clothes, and a comfy bed.

For now, we are content laying in the dirt after a long day hiking.

Buenos noches,

Hannah, Ben, Dan, and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Godspeed to the climber in the red beret!

Posted by: Jenny French on 1/26/2023 at 6:58 am

Congrats Hannah to You and your Team! You all Rock!
Farmer Dave

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 1/26/2023 at 3:22 am


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Retrieve Cache, Likely Will Begin Descent

Sunday, July 4, 2021 - 10:09 pm PT

The weather has not been cooperating with us lately, and the forecast doesn't look good either. Today was the best day in the forecast period and there were still strong winds up high and a huge lenticular cloud on the summit all day. We took advantage of the "best day" to climb up to 16,400' and retrieve our cache; there's a good chance that we would not be able to retrieve it over the next few days. Tomorrow is day 19 of our trip, and our time is running out. With no potential summit day in the foreseeable future we will likely start our descent tomorrow morning. The weather will determine our descent strategy and timing.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Hello to all and special one to Daryl, prayers to all for a one day out of there without any unstable stuff. Tomorrow maybe only 2 or 3 cm of snow, am following you all safely to the bottom. Stop the snow dance.

Posted by: Pat Everett on 7/7/2021 at 10:17 am


Mt. Rainier: Summit Climb Teams Summit!

Today's Mount Rainier summit climb teams, led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Lindsay Fixmer, are currently on the top! Temperatures were on the colder side and winds were brisk but no clouds from 9,500' to the summit. The teams are starting their descent soon and will be back to Paradise this afternoon.
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congratulations, kenny. you did it!!

Posted by: anne lawler on 9/5/2014 at 6:32 am

Anna—we are so proud of your accomplishment!  Great job!

Posted by: Brooke and Susan on 9/3/2014 at 9:37 pm


Justman & the Emmons Seminar Complete Their Week on Mt. Rainier

RMI Guide JJ Justman and team returned to Ashford today after completing their six-day Emmons Expedition Skills Seminar. JJ captured brilliant views on their summit day. See the video below.
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Everest Base Camp Trek & Island Peak Climb: Tucker & Team Headed for Namche

Mark Tucker here, calling from Chukung. My third attempt coming outside here. The satellites have not been too nice to me tonight. Ch-ch-chilly. So we had an unbelievable day. Just everything was going at us. We gave a great shot going for the summit. We were a little bit shy. But we had an awesome time! That mountain is incredible. And we're all down safe and sound. A lot of our staff is going to go to the right and we are going left, headed to Namche tomorrow. It is cold out tonight. Everybody's happy and we're doing well. We'll check in again. RMI Guide Mark Tucker


RMI Guide Mark Tucker calls in from Chukung.

On The Map

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Mark and Team- Congrats on a good climb!!  Summits are & aren’t everything!! Thanks for the good push!  Mark thank you for a wonderful time for Liesl and Pete!!
Love & Blessings to You ALL- M & G (Remember YMNTBP!!!!)

Posted by: Gretchen & Mike on 4/5/2013 at 6:14 pm


Aconcagua Expedition: JJ and team carry above Camp 1

Hello RMI Blog Enthusiasts! Today was more of the same. The team did a fantastic job climbing up to Camp 2 at 18000 feet. We cached more food for up high, some white gas and a few personal items. In fact, the team was doing so well that after our cache we took a little walk up higher to get a view towards high camp. We made it to 19000 feet when the snow began to fly. It turned out to be a beautiful walk down back to Camp One. We are drinking hot drinks now and soon we will begin cooking for the team. Tomorrow is a well deserved rest day for all of us here at 16500 feet, which actually is feeling really good for all of us. Everyone here wants to say hi to friends and family back home. RMI Guide JJ Justman P.S. GO PACKERS!!!!

On The Map

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YEAH Jeff!!!!!!!! Enjoy and stay safe.  Looks awesome.
Dick and Kookie

Posted by: Pat Simmons on 1/13/2013 at 8:04 pm

Jeffrey, followed you back up to C1. Glad to see you back in the hunt for the summit with the rest of team. BEST TO ALL.

Posted by: Paula Hall on 1/13/2013 at 9:03 am


WIN A CLIMB OF MT. RAINIER!

Win a 2013 Climb of Mt. Rainier! Drawing will take place Oct. 10, 2013 and valid only for 2013 Summer Climbs. Prize includes cost of climb only and does not include any additional travel, lodging, equipment, or meal expenses incurred with the climb. Winner will be notified via email. One entry per person. To enter visit the RMI Facebook eNewsletter Page to sign up or visit RMI at one of the Seattle Sounders games during the dates mentioned above.
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Mt. Rainier: August 30th Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb August 27 - 30 led by RMI Guide Seth Waterfall reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today! The teams were approaching the crater rim just after 7:00 a.m. PT. They reported clear skies above 7,500' with light winds. The teams will spend some time on top before starting their descent back to Camp Muir. They will return to Paradise later this afternoon. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb!
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Aconcagua: RMI Team Reflects on their Expedition during a Rest Day

We are enjoying a beautiful bluebird rest day here in the comfort of our second camp high on Aconcagua, after yesterday's trip to Campo Colera at 19,600'. The temperatures have warmed up and the winds have died down, so we are all just refueling and getting mentally prepared for the upcoming push to our highest camp and the summit. For a change of pace, we're going to have each team member share some thoughts today. Without further ado: Sid: rest days are probably the toughest days, though given the push ahead it is welcome. Hello to all and thanks for your thoughts, they make a difference. Keith: VERY tough mountain so far, but Gabi, Garrett and Pete have made it do-able and tolerable so far. Hi to fam and friends! Erin: it's been a difficult climb with high winds, but I am feeling well despite a brief battle with dehydration yesterday. Looking forward to coming home to family and friends, see you all soon! Todd: Looking forward to the summit! Kili ain't got nothing on Aconcagua...go market go!! Dan M.: Awesome team, great climb and scenery. Send more TP. O-H! John: Greetings family and friends, looking forward to the summit attempt. This is a beautiful, awesome and challenging mountain. As in Psalm 19, "The heavens and earth speak forth His glory". Michael: It's all I expected physically and with beauty. Love to Lois and my girls, miss you all. Lisa: Tom, miss you every day. Would love for you to be here. Sheri, your sleeping bag is working perfect. Garrett: Great climb with great people in a spectacular place! Amy, I love you and miss you. See you soon! Pete: The Andes have been showing us their spectacular side! Katie, love you, miss you, and talk soon! Gabi: Having a great time, enjoying the time shared with the team members and my friends Pete and Garrett. Ceci: te amo, nos vemos pronto por Buenos Aires! Thanks to everybody out there for following our progress and sending all those positive wishes. Cheers, The RMI Aconcagua expedition
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Fun to hear from all the climbers! Wishing you a safe push to the summit! Hi, Michael! XXOO :)

Posted by: Judy H. on 1/22/2011 at 7:22 am

Go Sid!
Great that the whole team is strong. Have a fabulous summit day. Don’t forget to take the time to soak it all in. You are a great inspiration to al of us back home. We want pictures.
Kevin & Patty

Posted by: Kevin Callaghan on 1/21/2011 at 10:01 am

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