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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Move to 11,000’ Camp

Sunday, June 30, 2013 Another Denali day, another camp built. We slept in until three this morning and then sprang into action. It doesn't get dark in this part of Alaska in late June, but it gets shadowy, which can be a beautiful thing, even with a storm moving in. It was pretty plain, as we ate breakfast and then knocked down our tents at 9500 ft, that the forecasts were correct and that it wouldn't be long before weather deteriorated. But we felt we still had a little time. As we were getting ready, we enjoyed seeing Mike Haugen's victorious climbing team passing through on their descent. We exchanged handshakes, hugs, route information and then wished each other well. We were out of the old camp and on the site of our new one at 11,000 ft in just over three hours, which meant that we were sitting pretty a few hours after that when things began to get nasty. It rained a bit through the afternoon, which is not so typical this high up Denali, but by evening it was the more typical onslaught of wind and snow. By then we were well dug in and ready for it. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Hi Will! So glad things are going well for you so far! I’m really enjoying the detailed daily updates. Stay strong…and warm! Love you!
-Amy

Posted by: Amy Huson on 7/1/2013 at 8:37 pm


Mt. McKinley:  Okita and Team Cache at 16,600’

We awoke to a clear, cold morning, excited to get our climb up the fixed ropes and onto the West Butress started. With several other guided groups set to climb this morning, we coordinated our departures and ended up being the first big party up the hill, alllowing us to move unhindered by other traffic. This ended up working out great for us because our teamed proved to be up to the task of climbing the steep terrain of the route. Under perfect conditions, we negotiated the fixed lines that seem so dauntingly steep from camp, and made our way up the Butress to a cache spot at 16,600'. This is a spot higher than most folks cache, yet everyone made it there in good form. At this point the climbers who were still feeling great went on to carry all the way up to 17,200' camp, a feat that I had yet to be able to do with a group in 20 years! This is certainly a testament to how well our team is doing. So, after this great success (and incredibly hard work) we are really looking forward to our first rest day tomorrow. Given the amount of energy everyone has given to reach this point, it will be the rest we so deserve to charge back up the batteries in preparation for our last move towards the summit. I, for one, am looking forward to sleeping in tomorrow. Good night, Brent
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Go Frank, go!! I’m following with excitement and wishing you well. Elizabeth from Rainier session. PS. Brandi is heading to Nepal next week!

Posted by: elizabeth holt on 5/31/2011 at 2:01 am

Wow you guys are doing awsome.  I am so happy the weather is in your favor.  Enjoy your much need rest day.  I will b thinking of you all please stay safe.  I love you Maile.  xoxo Mom

Posted by: Ginny myers on 5/28/2011 at 11:49 pm


Mt. McKinley: Viesturs & Waterfall Team - Day 7

Ed Viesturs and I, along with the team, pulled into the 14,000 foot camp today! We spent 5.5 hours climbing. It was a great show of strength for our group. We started out in questionable weather but after two hours of climbing the clouds lifted and we were able to round Windy Corner in sunshine. We then spent a few hours building camp. Its necessary to build snow walls at the upper camps here to prevent the tents from being crushed by the wind. We're all settled in now for the evening. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
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Hey Kev

It is great seeing you pass by “Kahiltna” in your climb - the name makes alot of sense now. Doing awesome!! Patti

Posted by: Patti on 5/11/2011 at 10:22 am

From RTD:

Hi Kevin, I am enjoying following you!  Good job!  Dad

Ditto - Mary!!

Posted by: Mary Satur on 5/11/2011 at 9:33 am


Clearer Weather - Summit Attempt Today

Currently, the team is resting at the South Col waiting for the weather to calm so they can launch their final summit push. The original plan was to leave on the evening of the 23rd and summit on the morning of the 24th although weather moved in dropping several inches of snow which fell thru out the night. Because of the weather and limited visibility, the team decided to hold off on the summit push and patiently wait one more night. As of now, spirits and anticipation are high with an afternoon of clearing skies and decreasing snow. If things continue as they are, the team should have a good shot at a successful and safe climb. On another note, I descended to Basecamp with one of our climbers on the morning of the 23rd in a decision that we felt was best for us. We are both currently down monitoring the radios with full support and wishful thinking for our teammates up high. If things continue to go well, the team will depart the South Col tonight for an early morning summit. Wish them luck and safe travel!
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Denal Expedition: VanDeventer and Team Cache Gear ready to Move to 14,000’ Camp

Thursday, May 18, 2023 8:12 pm PDT

Finally, we got to stretch our legs today!

We woke to beautiful conditions in camp, the first time we haven't woken to the tents flapping and slapping. We smashed an oatmeal breakfast and coffee and grabbed backpacks, sleds, and snowshoes and beat feet back to our hole in the snow that held all our best food and treats. We made quick work of the day, three hours round trip, and came back to sunny camp, warm tents, and dry sleeping bags. It was also our last day hauling sleds until we descended for good. So, when we walked into camp there was much rejoicing.

Tomorrow we plan to carry another cache up high to Windy Corner or 14 Camp depending. That will set us up to be ready to make a big move to 14!

RMI Guides Pete, Henry, Tatum and Team

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Let’s go team!  I have a hard time thinking about Brian being stuck inside a tent for days and nights. Hope he has a tent mate that likes to play cards!  Moving and climbing are much more fun.  Miss you hubby!  Jack and I are following along and wishing you well while Lou meditates silently onn your climb.

Posted by: Tory Goltry on 5/20/2023 at 8:15 am

Wonderful to hear…“sunny camp, warm tents, and dry sleeping bags” - the simple pleasures of life on a mountain.

Praying for you all, and have a special place in my heart for my niece Bailey. She is an inspiration to her friends and family.

Posted by: Uncle C on 5/20/2023 at 7:33 am


Ecuador Seminar: Weather Forces Knoff and Team Turn on Chimborazo

Deja vu happens to people all the time. A familiar face, feeling or experience happening in the present that one is sure has happened in the past. Most of the time this strange phenomenon passes quickly and the day continues on its normal path. Today was a different type of deja vu.  

One year ago at this very time of year, I was on Chimborazo guiding a team of climbers motivated to ascend this beast of a volcano. We were camped at the same camp, had the same tent sights and experienced the same weather. Unfortunately this weather was the kicker. From well below the mountain, a mean looking cloud cap obscured the summit and it was clear that wind, whipped up from the volatile tropics had a grip on the upper mountain with no intention of loosening it. Today, everything from our parking spot to the cloud formations was the same.

We reached high camp at 17,400' at the 3:00 p.m. This section of the climb was actually much more pleasant than expected. Beautiful backdrops of our climbers were framed against the moody upper mountain and the deep red volcanic rock making for amazing color contrast and Kodak moments.  

Once at camp, things began to change and the wind began to pour down the mountain making our tent houses flap. Through dinner the wind didn’t let up. Then around 8:00 p.m., as we were tucked in, things went calm. Exactly like last year. With this sign, I knew what was coming.   

By 9:30 p.m. the atmospheric fan was turned to high. Dust found every tiny opening in the tents covering our sleeping bags and getting into our eyes and mouths. From here on we knew it was going to be an uncertain climb.

At 2:00 a.m. we left our camp with winds so strong we needed to collapse our tents and put rocks on them to keep them from getting destroyed. Last year that’s what happened. Unfortunately an hour into the climb, having been protected by a large rock band, we turned a corner and were greeted with the full force of Chimborazo. With all the local guides urging us to turn back, we were left with little choice. Having only climbed 600 feet, we turned the group around.  

Sometimes the house deals some bad hands. Unfortunately on this trip, two out of three were not winners. Although we didn’t summit Cayambe or Chimborazo, we were blessed with a perfect day on Cotopaxi. We all feel psyched to be heading home soon but a bit disappointed we couldn’t get higher. All in all we had a great journey learning a lot while making life long memories.   

Now we are enjoying a welcome afternoon of football before heading back to Quito and ultimately back home. Thank you all for following our Ecuadorian adventure.   

Hasta Luego!

RMI Guides Adam Knoff, Dustin Wittmier and Team

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Good Luck Sue!!  Wishing you and your fellow climbers a safe and successful climb!

- Mychal (Mexico climb teammate)

Posted by: Mychal Wooldridge on 1/20/2020 at 1:14 pm

Glad you are safe!  Sorry that the wind blew you off the summit! Packers also were blown out!

Posted by: Jane on 1/20/2020 at 5:03 am


Everest Base Camp Trek: Grom & Team Trek to Lobuche

All is well here on the trek! Today we left Pheriche and hiked further up valley to Lobuche. We slowly made our way along the winding path that we share with other trekkers, porters heavily laden with loads bound for Base camp, and yaks who aren't as keen to share the trail. We made good time and enjoyed the astounding views before reaching camp for the night. In the afternoon we took a short walk to an overlook of the Khumbu glacier where we could just make out Everest Base Camp far in the distance. Everyone is currently relaxing in our tea house enjoying the warmth of the fire. There's been lots of cribbage and plenty of good conversation with our team and other trekkers on the same journey as us. RMI Guide Casey Grom

On The Map

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Everest Base Camp Trek: The Team Finishes Their Trek

Namaste from Kathmandu. Yes, we are out of the mountains... the team has finished the trek! The last couple of days of our descent have been really exciting dear friends. Upon our arrival into Namche Bazaar, we took a rest day to enjoy the magic that embraces one when in the Khumbu. With the best weather one can imagine and with the image of the highest mountains of the world very vivid in our memories, we found ourselves having an incredible surprise: we'd take a helicopter tour around Everest! Story aside, it is worth mentioning how seeing from the air lines that wrote history in mountain climbing, like the Hornbein Couloir made our eyes "watery". We'd finish our descent to Lukla and bask in thick air as the smell of the aviation fuel brought us to realize we were getting to the end of an incredible trek. We flew into Kathmandu this morning where we await our flights back home at the same time as we will be witnessing tomorrow the second democratic elections in this small Himalayan country. Nepali people are to elect a government to end a five-year period of an unstable care-taking government since the abolition of their monarchy... but this is a "summit" Nepal has to climb and we wish them luck. That has been all from our trip. Thanks to all of you who followed our adventure through our RMI Blog, to our great Sherpa Nawang Dorjee, to our Nepali outfitter HAD and Sagar in particular and to the mountains for being there and providing such an experience and making us feel so small. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
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Kilimanjaro: Grom & Team Preparing for Summit Bid

Hello again everyone. Day 5 and we have arrived at Kilimanjaro's high camp, 15,000ft! The team once again did a great job of getting to camp in just under our 3-hour target time. It was another nice day here this morning and now we are sitting in the clouds, which will make for perfect napping temperatures. We have just finished another enjoyable lunch and have discussed the plans for our upcoming climb. Everyone seems excited and as usual, a little nervous too. Our plan is to wake up at midnight, have breakfast at 12:30 p.m., and hopefully start our climb around 1 a.m. If all goes according to plan, we should reach the summit somewhere around 7 - 9 a.m. EAT (5 - 7 a.m. PST). Wish us luck! RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew

On The Map

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Jami & Heidi. We got your message. Congratulations! We have been watching your progress. Love you both, Mom, Dad and kids.

Posted by: Carrie Whitney on 9/10/2013 at 5:13 am

My Heidi Looks COLD…..Keep warm Girl!  Miss You!!

Posted by: Mary Jo Sabo on 9/10/2013 at 3:51 am


Mt. Elbrus: Waterfall & Team See the Sights of St. Petersburg

This is the last day of the trip for us. We've had a really nice day here in St. Petersburg. We kicked off the morning by beating the crowd to the Hermitage Museum. Once we got in we disbanded and everyone took in the seemingly endless art works at their own pace. Everyone seemed to really enjoy the experience there. Now we've all met up again for a boat tour on the canals. The weather is really nice here with plenty of sun and just a little crispness in the air. Tomorrow we'll all head to the airport for our flights home. It's too bad the weather kept us from getting to the top of Mt. Elbrus but this group has really made the most of the situation. Pete and I feel really lucky that everyone had such a positive attitude throughout the trip. Thanks guys! RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
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