Hey all,
One more rest day here at 14,000'. The weather isn't bad, actually really warm for May, but it wasn't perfect this morning so we decided to take one more day of rest.
We took the opportunity of a break in the clouds after breakfast to head out to the Edge of the World for some spectacular photos. Just outside of 14 camp, the Edge of the World is where Genet Basin falls away 5,000' to the NE fork of the Kahiltna. The views are spectacular, and we were able to see our first camp at the base of Ski Hill, as well as the climber's track heading up the glacier from Base Camp.
It was great to have a chance to stretch our legs, and with our impending summit attempt, the stoke meter is a solid 8 today. Everyone is getting amped up to head high, but with that comes a little bit of nerves for everyone knowing how much effort is just around the corner.
Wishing everybody well, over and out from 14,000'
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer and the gang
Hi Mai sounds like all is well way up there. Town is good and going up to the lake with Bob this weekend for some sailing should be fun. I know you are ready for the summit so have fun and please be safe. I miss you tons I will keep my finger crossed that the weather is perfect and that all will be good. Love you xoxo Mom
Posted by: Ginny on 5/25/2012 at 4:00 pm
Can’t help applauding you and your team again, Rob. Your pluck and spirits do our hearts good.
Our Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir was a microcosm of mountaineering: athletic, challenging, moments of joy and occasional disappointment, but ultimately and most importantly a safe adventure. Heavy rain on Monday negated our planned ascent to Camp Muir, but we had a productive day at Rainier Basecamp going over numerous techniques. We reached Camp Muir on Tuesday and spent the next three days practicing skills and preparing folks for future climbs. These skills were crevasse rescue, cramponing, ice climbing, beacon searches, rope travel, route finding and more! Conditions at Muir were sunny, windy and icy most of the week. We encountered a layer of hard ice on the surface of the Cowlitz Glacier (and above) which unfortunately prevented a summit attempt. Our high point was the top of Cathedral Gap, approximately 10,500’.
RMI Guide Casey Grom
Our day began differently than what we've been used to. The seemingly eternal sun had hid herself away behind a thick veil of clouds, and a dusting of snow fell during the night. Finally, the cold of Antarctica was showing us its stuff, and I for one was impressed.
Loading up packs, we all sorted through our things, deciding what could be left at High Camp and was needed to stay to keep us warm and happy down here at Low Camp. There's always a desire to bring as much as possible up on a carry in the hopes of having a lighter pack when you finally do move up. But, the worst-case scenario must always be considered, and generally it's better to leave less the first time, and carry more the second time, ensuring you have what you need if the going gets tough. So, we all had heavy packs, but not too bad.
The move up to High Camp on Vinson is a fairly expedient one, taking a steep line up the Branscomb Glacier headwall. It's steep, but not overwhelming, and fortunately gains altitude quickly. The entire team moved well, and the cloud cover was actually a blessing in disguise, keeping the temperatures reasonable. Step after step, foot after foot, we climbed upward into the clouds, dusted with snow from time to time. Eventually, the fixed lines gave way to a windy ridge and gentler terrain leading to High Camp.
As we moved up the final 1000 feet to camp, the mountains decided to show us some scenery. The clouds lowered a bit, and Mount Shinn, the third highest peak on the continent, reared up from the ether below. A stunning sight, and a nice culmination of a hard day's work.
We're now all safely back at Low Camp. The weather is socked in, with a light snow falling on the tents. Antarctica has finally showed us her cold side; we're all hoping she warms to us again soon.
-Jake Norton
We woke up to sunshine and the sound of the river rolling below us. We normally have a dining tent that we eat in but we opted for a plain aire breakfast because the weather was just too good! It was our shortest day on the trail so we took our time this morning to enjoy an extra cup of coffee before we packed up and headed out.
Our route meandered downhill and we stopped frequently to learn about the flora and fauna around us - pink flowers used to treat colds, mint plants for stomach ailments, brilliant fuschias, special leaves used for dying wool bright green, and so many more.
We said goodbye to our cowboys and mules today - we’ve officially completed the Salkantay trek and are joining up with the Inca trail. We walked into our camp at Wayllabamba to the cheers of our chaskis who will be with us for the rest of our trek. We even had hot showers and a little bit of wifi!
A highlight of the day was the fresh-from-the-river trout ceviche and “jungle potatoes” we had at lunch.
Hello friends, family and avid fans of the RMI blog,
It's the Ruth Glacier Seminar and we've just landed in Alaska. After surviving the most dangerous part of the trip, the drive to Talkeetna, the team has gotten settled into town. The team bonding began immediately over a delicious meal at Denali Brewing Company. We finished up the evening with a lovely stroll to the river and early bedtime after a long travel day.
Hi all, your seminar at Ruth Glacier sounds like a fantastic beginning of a new love. I’m guessing y’all have climbed Rainier. Impressive! Enjoy the spectacular views, and learning all those necessary skills so you can really enjoy future climbs.
The weather has not been cooperating with us lately, and the forecast doesn't look good either. Today was the best day in the forecast period and there were still strong winds up high and a huge lenticular cloud on the summit all day. We took advantage of the "best day" to climb up to 16,400' and retrieve our cache; there's a good chance that we would not be able to retrieve it over the next few days. Tomorrow is day 19 of our trip, and our time is running out. With no potential summit day in the foreseeable future we will likely start our descent tomorrow morning. The weather will determine our descent strategy and timing.
Hello to all and special one to Daryl, prayers to all for a one day out of there without any unstable stuff. Tomorrow maybe only 2 or 3 cm of snow, am following you all safely to the bottom. Stop the snow dance.
The lightning storm prevented the Four and Five Day Summit Climb teams from reaching the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. RMI Guide JJ Justman reported that the teams turned at 11,400' to seek shelter at Camp Muir.
Their plan is to descend from Camp Muir around 8:30 am PST. We look forward to seeing the teams at Rainier BaseCamp later this morning.
I was watching the blinking light up on the mountain hoping every one would make it back to climb another day. I had gone to the mountain in hopes to capture lightning on film, but it was touching down very close and chickened out. I was at the snow lake trailhead and I think the car parked 40 feet away got hit. What a show!
Posted by: Brian on 6/29/2015 at 8:42 pm
Hey guys, I woke up about 12:30 to the sound of thunder at the Bunkhouse. I sat on the picnic table and watched the light show while hoping you would still make it and that you were all safe. Sorry you had to turn back.
Greetings from Moscow,
The team arrived in Moscow today and our Russian adventure has officially begun!
There are no more trips to the store to buy that last minute item that you think you might need to bring just in case, no more chances to clear off your desk of the last few remaining to-do items. It is go time. We are headed for Mt. Elbrus.
But before we fly south, we are going to explore Moscow tomorrow and all it's amazing sights. And we will get a big dose of Russian culture, food and history along the way. The perfect introduction to this country.
RMI Guides Jeff Martin and Pete Van Deventer
Buenas tardes from Plaza de Mulas, the Base Camp on Aconcagua's western side! Plaza de Mulas sits on a big rocky glacial moraine, near the eastern side of the amphitheater that makes up the head of the main Horocones Valley. Sharp summits surround us in every direction, the deep red color of the mountains here occasionally interested with striations of yellow and grey. Most of the peaks still hold snow from last winter snowpack and fields of penitentes - sharp snow spires that form from the intense sun - are emerging in the snow patches that still reside in the shallow gullies running alongside Base Camp. The panorama is framed by the massive cliff of glacial ice of Horocones Superior to our north and the hulk of Aconcagua rising immediately out of camp to our east. From this low on the mountain the majority of our route is obscured from view by the scree covered flanks running into camp, but far above us the steep cliffs that guard Aconcagua's twin northern and southern summits occasionally emerge from the clouds. Despite the relatively non-technical nature of this route, we still found ourselves craning our necks to look up at the mountain from Camp.
After reaching camp we quickly set up our tents and unloaded our gear that came in by mule. It was a relief to see that our gear made it unscathed after bouncing up the valley on the back of what seemed to be semi-tamed mules (whatever you do, don't stand in the trail and play chicken with an oncoming mule train!). With our camp established we explored around camp a bit before settling into our tents for some R&R right as the afternoon clouds spit a few sporadic snowflakes down on us.
The team is doing well and we are all very happy to be up high, finally eyeing the route above us and contemplating the next few days. If weather and acclimatization hold strong, we hope to carry a portion of our gear and supplies needed for the upper mountain to Camp 1 tomorrow. The sun is just starting to sink behind the ridge lines that separate us from Chile and the temperatures are getting chilly as we head off to dinner. We'll check in tomorrow after our day.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
Hello everybody. This is Jake calling in from Boston Basin up in the North Cascades checking in after a great day of mountain adventure. Eric Frank wanted to let everybody know that they are working well on Torment-Forbidden Traverse and they were on the top of Torment, I think around noon today. Nice work fellas. Thomas Greene and I are out with James, James and Steve up out on Sharkfin Tower today and heading for the West Ridge tomorrow. So cross your fingers for good weather and we will be checking in tomorrow afternoon. That's it from the Basin.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Hi Mai sounds like all is well way up there. Town is good and going up to the lake with Bob this weekend for some sailing should be fun. I know you are ready for the summit so have fun and please be safe. I miss you tons I will keep my finger crossed that the weather is perfect and that all will be good. Love you xoxo Mom
Posted by: Ginny on 5/25/2012 at 4:00 pm
Can’t help applauding you and your team again, Rob. Your pluck and spirits do our hearts good.
Posted by: Pamela on 5/25/2012 at 12:56 pm
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