A whole lot of airplanes got flown around Union Glacier today, but not ours. At first, the day looked like another storm day with low cloud and poor contrast, but by mid-morning, things began to shape up. About fifty mountains appeared from the mists and the sun came out to stay. Word was that clouds were persisting at Vinson Base, however. So we got out our ropes and toys and began reviewing crevasse rescue strategies. Meanwhile the planes began flying other folks to and fro around Antarctica. Camp emptied out as the weather got more and more pleasant. We trained, we ate, we waited. It wasn't until after dinner that conditions at Vinson improved enough for a try with the ski-equipped Twin Otter. But that plane was designated for others and ours was to be a second lap by the same plane... if time allowed. But it didn't allow. By the time the plane finally went, it was known that the pilots would reach the end of their "duty day" before a second lap. Ours will have to be tomorrow after breakfast... fresh pilots, fresh weather, fresh hope.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
So close yet so far away :( The good news is Ohio State beat Michigan (barely) and they are advancing to the National Championship! Yesterday, the Browns lost (no surprise). It would be nice if an avalanche would descend upon Cleveland Browns stadium so hey’d be forced to move the team. In other news, the hot guy from ‘Fast and Furious’ died in a car accident (Paul Walker). I’ll keep you posted on more pop culture updates as your trip progresses. Oh, I had a glass of wine on Thanksgiving! It was glorious :) Stay safe! Dixie
Summit! Jake Beren called in from Mt. Shuksan with an update on his team. They set out yesterday a little later than usual due to stormy weather, but the climb went great. The team is hiking out from their high camp today and will celebrate their success in Sedro Woolley.
Congratulations team!
Namaste from Namche Bazaar,
The quiet setting of Phakding, amongst the blooming rhododendrons and along the river, gave us the opportunity to catch up on some much needed rest after days of travel and the skewed sleeping schedules of our nights in Kathmandu. We awoke to another nice day and after a leisurely breakfast in the teahouse we continued making our way northward up the Khumbu Valley. From Phakding we contoured above the Dudh Khosi, crossing occasional side streams and weaving our way amongst the fields and villages along the way. With several days of backed up flights finally breaking yesterday the trail was quite busy with locals returning home, trekkers, and lines of dzopkyos - the yak/cow hybrids used to haul loads at the lower elevations. With so many horns swinging down the trail, it was a challenge not to be distracted by our surroundings with towering peaks looming over us, coated in a fresh dusting of snow from last night.
After crossing the Dudh Kosi and climbing a steep set of stone stairs into the small village of Monjo we reached the Entrance Gate to Sagamartha National Park. There we showed our climbing permit and checked in, before continuing on to the village of Jorsale where we paused for lunch. Above Jorsale we reached the confluence of the Dudh Kosi, flowing down from Everest, and the Bhoti Kosi, flowing from below Cho Oyu and the Nangpa La Pass into Tibet. At this confluence of the rivers, but several thousand feet above on the hillside, sits Namche Bazaar. We crossed our forth and final suspension bridge of the day, strung at a dizzying height above the river and blanketed with prayer flags that were streaming in the afternoon breeze, and began the long climb to Namche. Picking our way up the 18 or so switchbacks and through the pine forests, we gradually climbed higher, leaving the river below and gradually revealing the panorama of peaks that often hide from the valley floor. Along the way we passed grinning Sherpani women tempting us with tangerines, a welcome refreshment from the hot and dusty trail of the Namche hill. Eventually the trail leveled out, passing a few houses, before taking a sharp turn and leading us into the heart of Namche Bazaar.
Perched at 11,300' in a U shaped bowl overlooking the Bhoti Kosi and peaks to the south, Namche is a series of terraced streets, buildings, and fields all built in a horseshoe shape that stack upon each other, climbing up the hillside. A center of trade, and now tourism as well, Namche's narrow streets are a bustle of activity compared to the calm farming communities below. Walking through its streets, really just stone lined footpaths amongst the shops, we made our way to our teahouse, nestled right in the middle of Namche. As trekker's peruse the stalls of souvenirs, yak bells, and the latest climbing and trekking gear, stray dzopkyos and yaks wander the streets, with little Sherpa children chasing them from the courtyards of their homes. It's an incredibly unique place and a pleasure to explore and we are looking forward to spending a few nights here.
After a long day of walking, finishing with the large climb to Namche, the team is happy to have some down time to rest, relax, and explore. Tomorrow we are planning to check out the weekly Saturday morning market where villagers from throughout the valley will descend upon Namche to stock up on daily goods before spending the day acclimatizing and enjoying the scene of Namche.
We slept in till ten today, then enjoyed a delectable brunch of bagels and lox. Seems like an interesting dichotomy to be eating such luxurious meals in such an inhospitable place.
We are spending the remainder of the day resting, eating and stocking up on calories and sleep to give us the strength we need to hopefully carry to just below 14,000' Camp tomorrow.
Hey everyone, this is Team Mexico, and believe it or not! Well, you should believe because I tell what this team is you rocking and rollin'! Hey team on the summit of Ixta what do you say? "Whaoo!" Yeah, I tell you what, that says it all. The team did just a fantastic job. We are on top of Ixta 17,300+ feet! It's a beautiful day, the sun us shining, there are some low lying clouds out in the distance. You can see Orizaba which is our next objective, but the team had a good a good day to get here on top, they did a great job. We are doing a little hydrating, and taking some hero shots on the summit by the crosses here on top, and that is about it! So, Elias, myself and Ulises, our guide here in Mexico all say hello to everyone back home. Hey gang, just give a big shout out to anyone and everyone you want to say hi to back home. (Shouts & Cheers from team)
RMI Guide JJ Justman
July 16, 2014 - 5:12 am PT
We started our day at a reasonable hour with breakfast at 8 am, we had porridge, fried eggs, and of course plenty of the Starbucks coffee we brought along. :) After breakfast we finished the remainder of our packing and headed over the the gondola to hitch a ride further up the mountain to our new Base camp on Mt. Elbrus. Two gondola rides and one super long single chair lift delivered us at our new home just over 12'000'. Our new home is basically a retro fitted shipping container, they're brand new and rather comfortable.
After we settled in we had a nice lunch cooked by our wonderful and cantankerous cook Albina. She's a great cook, but I think is a little over worked and runs a tight ship.
After lunch we headed out to stretch our legs and continue our acclimatization process by hiking for a little over an hour and gaining well over a thousand feet. Everyone did great and we are now back at camp watching the evening clouds roll in and getting ready for dinner.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
RMI Guides Brent Okita, Zeb Blais and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter Team finished up a great week of training. The team has started their descent and will be back at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon.
Congratulations Team!
Ah, the acclimatization process. A dismal process of spending the day eating mountain delicacies of dried meat and exotic cheeses, drinking coffee, spending a few hours reading, a midday siesta and strolling around camp soaking in the dramatic topography of the Andes. Yes, the rest day. Not always so accommodating but when the weather Gods give you a day like they gave us, the rest day is just what the doctor ordered. So today we try not to eat all of our remaining food, sleep to our hearts content and day dream of days to come. Oh, how it pays to be patient in the mountains!
RMI Guide Steve Gately
Hey dad! (Lew Smith Best of luck to you and the team this week! Stephanie and I can’t wait to hear about your climb and the expedition, we are so very excited and proud of you! Stay strong, climb smart, get adequate rest, eat and drink well, and remember, “an easy pace puts a smile on your face.” Don’t focus on the summit, rather, focus on putting one foot in front of the other…do that, and you’ll reach the top. The weather looks good for the next few days, so hopefully, the mountain will allow you and team to summit. I heard the following Dan Fogelburg song a few days ago and immediately thought of you and the team. We love you!
“The higher you climb,
The more that you see.
The more that you see,
The less that you know.
The less that you know,
The more that you yearn.
The more that you yearn,
The higher you climb.
The farther you reach,
The more that you touch.
The more that you touch,
The fuller you feel.
The fuller you feel,
The less that you need.
The less that you need,
The farther you reach.
The higher you climb,
The more that you see.
The more that you see,
The less that you know.
The less that you know,
The more that you yearn.
The more that you yearn,
The higher you climb.
The higher you climb,
The more that you see.
The more that you see,
The less that you know.
The less that you know,
The more that you yearn.
The more that you yearn,
The higher you climb.”
-Dan Fogelburg
Posted by: Kyle A. Smith on 1/27/2014 at 6:17 am
Steve and team,
“On the mountains of truth you can never climb in vain: either you will reach a point higher up today, or you will be training your powers so that you will be able to climb higher tomorrow.” - Friedrich Nietzsche
Hi, this is Linden calling in with a dispatch from Chukung.
What a day!
We woke this morning about 2 a.m. The winds that were bothering us yesterday afternoon had died down to just a whisper. We had a quick climbers breakfast and headed off up the mountain. We climbed and watched the moon rise over Makalu followed shortly by the sun. Sunrise caught us right at the base of the glacier. We kept climbing up the glacier to the base of the headwall. The team made great work ascending the 800 or so vertical feet of the fixed line, despite some adverse conditions. Everyone handled it well.
About nine in the morning were standing on the top of Island Peak. The entire team made the summit. We had the entire summit to ourselves, even though it's only about the size of a ping-pong table. After a few celebratory photos we headed back down the fixed line, to the glacier and back to High Camp. We packed up High Camp and walked all the way to Chukung. We arrived just before the last rays of sunlight disappeared. We dropped into our tea house tired, hungry but very happy.
We plan to walk to Namche tomorrow and arrive in Lukla the following day.
It was plenty cold at low camp last night. Namgya bravely got out of the tent at 11 AM to fire up the stoves, even though we were still in the cold shadow. The weather held, with little cloud cover getting in our way. We watched a blanket of thick cloud fill the valley below and we could see wind tearing at the mountaintops, but we lucked out with calm and sunny conditions for our five hour and ten minute climb up to high camp.
Willie Benegas and Vern Tejas managed to get their teams to the summit deespite the winds and both were back just after we got our tents built and kitchen dug out, around 8:30 PM. Vern is the new world's record holder for Vinson ascents, with 27. I have a chance to tie him tomorrow if the weather cooperates and if my climbers are feeling fine. They seem to be. Leif Whittaker, who turned 25 the day we flew out of Punta Arenas, is cruising along as if he did this sort of thing all the time. One can't help just assuming that it is in his blood, since his Dad is Big Jim Whittaker -the first American up Everest. Sashko Kedev, our cardiologist from Macedonia was thrilled with the day on the ropes today and obviously can't wait for tomorrow. Tim Amos, our producer from New York City, has been strong and steady all along. Brent Huntsman is the team geologist from Ohio and when we slow down enough to permit conversation (not often), he explains the wild "chevron" folds in the rock we are seeing.
It is calm now (12:30 AM) at high camp, we want it to stay that way.
So close yet so far away :( The good news is Ohio State beat Michigan (barely) and they are advancing to the National Championship! Yesterday, the Browns lost (no surprise). It would be nice if an avalanche would descend upon Cleveland Browns stadium so hey’d be forced to move the team. In other news, the hot guy from ‘Fast and Furious’ died in a car accident (Paul Walker). I’ll keep you posted on more pop culture updates as your trip progresses. Oh, I had a glass of wine on Thanksgiving! It was glorious :) Stay safe! Dixie
Posted by: Dixie Trunko on 12/2/2013 at 5:18 am
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