Hey everybody this is Peter Whittaker up on top with the whole First Ascent/RMI team. We are on top of Mt. Vinson it’s 5 p.m. It’s about 31, 32 below zero and the wind is blowing about 18 - 20 knots. It’s beautiful up here clear, low clouds and bitter, bitter cold.
We are going to try and push a picture out tonight when we get back to high camp and you’ll see we are all frosted up. But we are happy, we are on top. Give a yell you guys…
We’ve done it. A beautiful day, a little brisk and we are going to put the phone away and head on out of here.
Alright that’s the word from on top of the bottom of the world.
We’ll shoot a call later on maybe from camp.
First Ascent, RMI and Eddie Bauer over and out.
Up to the top of the Massif today. We had an easy time getting out of camp this morning as conditions were perfect, no wind and no clouds above (although there was an ocean of cloud below). We pulled out of camp a little before 9 AM. For the first hour or two, temperatures were mild and most of the team was wondering if all the down gear was necessary, then we caught a minor but persistent breeze and hoods went up and zippers got shut. The cooler conditions were ideal for walking. Vinson summit day is a long, moderate incline (on glacial ice, of course) up a broad valley until you hit the final rock and ice peak atop the broad summit plateau. Then things steepen and tend to get more interesting. Throughout the climb we were treated to increasingly magnificent views of the sharp and lofty peaks to the North. Eventually we were sheltered from wind as we came along our summit peak, but then caught enough of it on the 16,000 ft final ridge that we had to be very much on the lookout for frostbite on each others faces. We walked onto the highest point in Antarctica at 4:15 PM. I've had more relaxing times up there -the steady cold breezes needed to be paid attention to this time as one couldn't take gloves off for picture taking or snacking. But it was stunning and beautiful to see the mountains up and down the Ellsworth chain sticking out of the endless cloud sea.
We got off the ridge without frosting anyone and had a smooth and easy walk down to high camp, which we reached around 7:45 PM. Strength returned as we sat around for hot drinks and dinner. Inevitably, with the relief of having made the top, folks started talking about airplanes, but I tried to keep people focused on the need to climb down safely first. We'll do that tomorrow, high camp to basecamp, with some heavy loads. And from what we heard, none of the other teams did any flying yet and don't expect to tomorrow -that sea of clouds envelopes both Vinson Base and Patriot Hills. So perhaps we'll catch up to all the other climbers soon. My team is looking forward to a good sleep first... It is supposed to reach -30 C at high camp tonight.
Today we had a casual morning at Everest Base Camp, rolling into the dining tent for breakfast at 8:30am. After a deliciously filling breakfast, we grabbed some jackets and headed out onto the glacier. We moved our way down loose rock to the ice where it flattened out. We weaved around the ice and came upon some tracks in the snow. First thought was one of the puppers followed us up. But on closer examination they were cat tracks...snow leopard to be exact. What a sight the tracks of a snow leopard! Now if only we could see one. We found a nice ice wave to set up an obstacle course for the team to practice their climbing skills. They ascended one rope and then descended the other. These skills will be needed to climb Lobuche. The rest of the afternoon we repacked our duffles and relaxed for a big day tomorrow. The snow pitter pattered most of the afternoon, once again creating a fresh blanket of snow through camp. With water bottles filled with hot water to warm our sleeping bags we are ready for bed.
We enjoyed a long, restful night of sleep at 14,000' Camp, with (relatively) warm temperatures. The agenda for today includes drying out boots in the sun, charging batteries with solar panels, resting, reading, and eating.
It's sunny and warm here in camp, but there's a nasty lenticular cloud on the summit, indicating high winds aloft. The latest weather forecast is calling for a storm affecting the mountain an lasting into Saturday. We're all set to weather the weather. And our hope is to get a good, three day window in which to have a summit bid. We'll be in touch again tomorrow with the latest. Now back to reading...
Good Evening!
We are all doing great here at the Piedra Grande Hut at the base of El Pico de Orizaba. After a bumpy and dusty 4x4 drive, we arrived today around 3:30. Up next was setting up tents and getting our gear together so we could all settle in and enjoy a delicious pasta and garlic bread dinner before tucking in for the night.
It's cold here at 14,000', and everyone is settled in for the night. We had beautiful weather on our climb of Ixta and also on our rest day, but here at camp we are in the clouds and we've been receiving mixed precipitation types of rain, snow, graupel, and hail. Cross your fingers this system moves out and allows us a shot at the summit!
RMI Guide Solveig Waterfall and the Team
We wouldn’t recommend trying to reach the hut by car. The road is very rough, and especially in wet conditions, can be extremely muddy. Clearance is an issue on the road, so a 4x4 vehicle would be a necessity.
Posted by: RMI Team on 11/3/2016 at 12:08 pm
Hi,
I was wondering if it is possible to make it up to the Piedra Grande hut by car. I have been on plenty of 4x4 roads in a car and am a pretty experienced 4x4 driver, so just being a 4x4 road doesn’t tell me too much. Just curious if a car is even possible, doesn’t matter how well I know how to drive if the car cant clear certain sections. Your advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks
We went for it today. The weather was greatly improved. The clouds were gone, but there were still dust devils of snow twisting off the ridges as we watched from high camp. Obviously, we hoped for a calming trend as the day went on. One of our climbers stayed in camp, satisfied with yesterday's effort. This worked out as there were two ALE "rangers" also in camp along with a guided group taking a rest day. The rest of us set out at 10:37 AM. We were in still air for the first hour, but then we went through a few gusty portions of the route for several hours. The fact that the winds weren't sustained didn't mean they were any warmer. We bundled up pretty good in down coats and pants and tried hard to keep our faces from freezing. By about 15,000 ft, we'd reached a calm area, which was a great relief as the mountain was getting tough to climb even without a distracting wind. Most were working quite hard to compensate for the lack of oxygen and the steepening snow and ice. As we worked our way out the 16,000 ft summit ridge, we found the wind again. This made it tough to enjoy the view of the Ellsworth Mountains spread for two hundred miles around and below us. We walked onto the mountain top at 10 minutes to 6 PM. Excited, but also very much on our guard against frostbite. We took a bare minimum of pictures, did quick but heartfelt hugs, handshakes and high fives, and then beat feet out of there. We were safely back in high camp by 8:45 PM.
Best,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Hello -
We are checking in on our penultimate day. We're in Tarangire National Park also known as the garden of the elephants. It's been a great day and we've been fortunate to have gotten close to many large animals. Tonight we'll be having our last dinner together before we all start heading home.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
Friday, June 14, 2013
Light and variable wind started over night with warmer temperatures. We woke early to beat the heat and the people that have collected at the 14 camp over the past week of stormy weather!
We began our climb to high camp in cold squeaky snow conditions. The headwall where the fixed lines are located were a bit more difficult than our trip up the other day as the wind nearly stripped all the snow and left firm icy climbing! From the top of the lines we began a perfect climb up the West Buttress, which is the most exposed and picturesque part of the climb. The climb was hard but the team did very well. We have sparked our match for our summit push! Currently we are again cowering from the most intense sun of the trip basking in our shelters at 17,200' Denali high camp! Our chill mentality had payed huge today and with a bit o' luck we will have nice weather tomorrow for our summit push! More food, water, and relaxing for the eve. We will try for a call from the summit tomorrow afternoon! Hi Five!
RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, and Team!
Happy Father’s Day , Justin! Anxiously awaiting to hear that you and team have summited. As one of the guides alluded to in a previous blog, this experience is about more than just climbing a snowy mountain!!!! Can’t wait to hear all the details and “meet” your new friends. Be safe! Love you——Mom and Dad
Monday, May 27, 2013
We are resting today! Nothing much to report but a trip to the 6,000' drop into the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna known as the "Edge of the World" where we took some photos. Otherwise we relaxed and enjoyed the perfect weather on our first full day rest of the entire expedition. The team is doing well and excited for the big push ahead! We are hoping to move to high camp tomorrow and make a summit attempt soon thereafter!
Ciao from 14k,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Sunday, May 26, 2013
We had a big day today and per the norm our team crushed it. We set out from 14 camp around 10:30 this morning hoping to get a cache of food, fuel, and gear in place for our high camp at 17,200'. Most teams are content caching somewhere along the ridgeline of the West Buttress and picking up the needed supplies on their way by during the move to 17 camp. Our crew was strong enough to climb all the way up the buttress and place our cache right in the middle of high camp. This will play to our advantage on the move day, enabling us to travel with lighter loads thus conserving energy for our summit push. The day ended up being one of our longest and hardest yet at around 8.5 hours round trip but will serve as good training for the harder and longer days to come. Anyway, we are back in camp relaxing in the evening sun and looking forward to tomorrow's well-earned rest day.
All for now,
Billy
Good luck to everyone! Our thoughts and prayers are with you. Tell Robin we said HI from Destin, FL
Posted by: Mary Romair on 5/31/2013 at 9:03 am
Hi Craig and Billy Nugent Team!
Great job everyone and thanks for the Blog updates! Sounds like Craig is holding his own as the “elder” team member! Of course those that know him would expect no less! He’s 52 going on 25! :)
Happy Fourth!!! But actually our sixth day on the mountain and our first rest day. If it hadn't been proclaimed a rest day in advance, it would have become one anyway, but we'd have labeled it a storm day. Light, but continuous snow fell and we were seldom granted views of the sky, the sun or the mountains. Winds were aimless but persistent, making it a fine day for tenting. The team got up with the sun -or at least when the sun came out from behind the West Buttress at 9:15 AM and ducked behind clouds. Breakfast was held in the POSH and consisted of salmon, bagels, cream cheese and hot drinks. Conversation ranged from whales to polar bears and royal families. Cards were played, books were read and iPod movies were watched. Everyone seems to be acclimatizing well -which was the goal in resting here at 11,000 before the hoped for move to 14,200. While camp had seemed quite busy two days ago, it now seems quiet with just three other teams -all on similar schedules, give or take a day or two. Together we represent the end of the guided climbing season on Denali.
Our team, although pleasantly diverse and international in composition is proud to be celebrating the fourth by climbing the America's highest peak. Although today we are climbing it from a predominantly seated position.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Mark,enjoy following your climb. Stay safe, healthy and enjoy the experience. I admire you for your dedication and courage. Hope the weather clears for you - and best of luck to you and the entire climbing crew.
Posted by: Bob B on 7/5/2012 at 6:48 pm
The team seems to be making solid progress!!! We are watching/waiting for your updates to this blog. This is exciting for us mortals to witness!!!
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Shane,
We wouldn’t recommend trying to reach the hut by car. The road is very rough, and especially in wet conditions, can be extremely muddy. Clearance is an issue on the road, so a 4x4 vehicle would be a necessity.
Posted by: RMI Team on 11/3/2016 at 12:08 pm
Hi,
I was wondering if it is possible to make it up to the Piedra Grande hut by car. I have been on plenty of 4x4 roads in a car and am a pretty experienced 4x4 driver, so just being a 4x4 road doesn’t tell me too much. Just curious if a car is even possible, doesn’t matter how well I know how to drive if the car cant clear certain sections. Your advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks
Posted by: Shane on 10/31/2016 at 11:25 am
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