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From the top of Cayambe

Hey, hey, hey RMI. This is Casey and crew on the summit of Cayambe! Great day yesterday. Everyone slept well last night and we got up about midnight again. Took us about 6 1/2 hours to summit. Clear, windy and cold today. Both trips have been real tough. These guys are real troopers and did a great job. We'll check in again when we get back to Quito.
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Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Reach Summit of North Americas Highest Peak

Wednesday, June 19, 2024

Good evening readers,

The team did it! At 620pm on Wednesday we stood on top of Deanli! The weather held with mostly clear skies and winds no greater than 20mph. It was a cold cold day. We wore most of our jackets and multiple layers on out legs. It was a long, hard day. We had the summit to ourselves. Tomorrow we head downhill to lower elevations where everyone will feel much better. We still have some big days ahead of us but the end is near. We would like to thank everyone for the good weather vibes and positive vibes! And for all the support from back home. Y'all are amazing!!

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team

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Congrats on the summit to the TMac attack and the rest of the team. Have a safe trip down. Sending good vibes and much love.

- Harold Pitt M.D.

Posted by: Harold Pitt on 6/21/2024 at 5:26 pm

Congratulations everyone on making it up!! Way to go Shane. Stay safe heading back down.

Posted by: Sonny Digiovanna on 6/21/2024 at 8:13 am


Ecuador Seminar: Weather Forces Knoff and Team Turn on Chimborazo

Deja vu happens to people all the time. A familiar face, feeling or experience happening in the present that one is sure has happened in the past. Most of the time this strange phenomenon passes quickly and the day continues on its normal path. Today was a different type of deja vu.  

One year ago at this very time of year, I was on Chimborazo guiding a team of climbers motivated to ascend this beast of a volcano. We were camped at the same camp, had the same tent sights and experienced the same weather. Unfortunately this weather was the kicker. From well below the mountain, a mean looking cloud cap obscured the summit and it was clear that wind, whipped up from the volatile tropics had a grip on the upper mountain with no intention of loosening it. Today, everything from our parking spot to the cloud formations was the same.

We reached high camp at 17,400' at the 3:00 p.m. This section of the climb was actually much more pleasant than expected. Beautiful backdrops of our climbers were framed against the moody upper mountain and the deep red volcanic rock making for amazing color contrast and Kodak moments.  

Once at camp, things began to change and the wind began to pour down the mountain making our tent houses flap. Through dinner the wind didn’t let up. Then around 8:00 p.m., as we were tucked in, things went calm. Exactly like last year. With this sign, I knew what was coming.   

By 9:30 p.m. the atmospheric fan was turned to high. Dust found every tiny opening in the tents covering our sleeping bags and getting into our eyes and mouths. From here on we knew it was going to be an uncertain climb.

At 2:00 a.m. we left our camp with winds so strong we needed to collapse our tents and put rocks on them to keep them from getting destroyed. Last year that’s what happened. Unfortunately an hour into the climb, having been protected by a large rock band, we turned a corner and were greeted with the full force of Chimborazo. With all the local guides urging us to turn back, we were left with little choice. Having only climbed 600 feet, we turned the group around.  

Sometimes the house deals some bad hands. Unfortunately on this trip, two out of three were not winners. Although we didn’t summit Cayambe or Chimborazo, we were blessed with a perfect day on Cotopaxi. We all feel psyched to be heading home soon but a bit disappointed we couldn’t get higher. All in all we had a great journey learning a lot while making life long memories.   

Now we are enjoying a welcome afternoon of football before heading back to Quito and ultimately back home. Thank you all for following our Ecuadorian adventure.   

Hasta Luego!

RMI Guides Adam Knoff, Dustin Wittmier and Team

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Good Luck Sue!!  Wishing you and your fellow climbers a safe and successful climb!

- Mychal (Mexico climb teammate)

Posted by: Mychal Wooldridge on 1/20/2020 at 1:14 pm

Glad you are safe!  Sorry that the wind blew you off the summit! Packers also were blown out!

Posted by: Jane on 1/20/2020 at 5:03 am


Mexico Volcanoes: King & Team Summit El Pico de Orizaba!

Couldn’t have asked for a nicer day to climb the 3rd highest peak in North America! The entire Team is here, feeling a little worked but with smiles on their faces. Warm, clear night to start and a slight breeze once up in the glacier. We have a lot of smoke obscuring the views to the East and clear skies our to the West with Ixta, Popo and La Malinche. We have a long descent ahead of us and we will check in once back at Sr. Reye’s hostel. Drew, we missed you up here, hope the flight went well! RMI Guide Mike King
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Wow! Amazing pictures!  Glad you all made it safe and sound.

Posted by: Jean Wittmier on 2/24/2019 at 6:49 pm


Mt.Rainier: August 15th High Winds Keep Group from Summit

The Four Day Summit Climbs August 12 - 15, 2013 led by RMI Guides Eric Frank was unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Strong winds and precipitation prevented the teams from climbing. The teams checked in from Camp Muir shortly after 7 am where they were safe and warm in the Muir hut. The teams will descend from Camp Muir to Paradise this morning. The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz led by RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos was unable to summit this morning also. They will spend today training on the mountain. Tomorrow they will descend to Paradise and complete their program. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp.
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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Rest at 14,000’ Camp

One can call it a rest day, or weather day depending on perspective, but we took the opportunity of winds up high and snow, to rest up our legs for another day at 14,000' on Mt. McKinley. It hasn't been too bad here, with sporadic gusts of wind, some snow falling from the sky, and most snow just blowing around the ground. Our walls are doing their job, and nobody was complaining about a day of sport eating in the tents, getting our reserves up for the big push. We'd love to see this weather move out and give us our chance, as we are all ready, but with no control over that, we're going to patiently watch and wait. We'll let you know what happens tomorrow: we may still be sitting here, or we may be up at 17, getting ready for a summit bid! Send positive weather vibes our way! Best from the mountain, RMI Guides Pete, Geoff, Robby, and team

On The Map

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Sending much aloha and sunshiny vibes from Maui!  Sport eating doesn’t sound too bad, especially as you get ready for the big push.  Go, Gail, goooooooo!
Jen Fordyce

Posted by: Jen Fordyce on 7/2/2013 at 2:34 pm

Good morning, Tommy! I hope you rested well last night and you woke to clear skies. I am praying for a great weather day to move up to High Camp. I miss you! Have an awesome day! Love always!
Rhonda

Posted by: Rhonda Kitchen on 7/2/2013 at 11:09 am


Mt. McKinley: Team Jones - The Job of Chilling

Friday, June 7, 2013 Today, we are chilling out around camp like it's our job; in fact, it IS our job after yesterday's move up to 14,200'. The trial of moving with big packs in the relentless sun is behind us, and now we are enjoying our well earned rest. The morning started when the sun crept around the ridge, taking the bite out of last night's sub-zero temperatures. The crystal blue skies above were inviting folks to grab sleeping bags and drape them over tents to dry out, as well as let the UV rays kill a week of accumulated funk. As hot water came to a boil and the smells of frying bacon and eggs wafted over our tents, the crew came circling in like sharks sensing prey in the water. Our breakfast quesadillas lasted about as long as an injured fish in a feeding frenzy, too - but you know what they say: you have to eat your way right to the top of this mountain. After the group appetite was satiated, team members waddled back to their tents in down booties, looking for more respite from the intense power if the sun. The route is easily visible from our tents, and we've seen plenty of teams heading up the route we'll follow tomorrow on our carry. The group morale is high and folks are climbing strong, although the new altitude is definitely noticeable. Our afternoon today will include a review of fixed line travel techniques, in preparation for the carry tomorrow. But for now, we are simply enjoying being in one of the world's most beautiful places, with excellent weather and the bulk of Denali reminding us of what's to come. Thanks for all the kind wishes and keep sending the good vibes! Stay tuned... RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, and the Crew

On The Map

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Robin and Team
Hope all is well up there in the thin air! Congrats to you all for passing the half way mark and I hope you get some well deserved rest and recharge for what lies ahead. You guys are nothing short of amazing! Best wishes and lots of prayers for you all for your continued safe ascent and good weather. Stay warm and stay safe.

Love you Robin
DAD

Posted by: Matt Prosser on 6/8/2013 at 9:54 am


Ecuador Seminar: Go With the Flow

Yesterday we drove five hours south of Quito to Ecuador's highest mountain, Chimborazo. News from other local guides provided mixed information. We heard there was a bit of new snow on the route which contrary to popular belief actually makes the route safer. What we found was nothing of the sort. For many years the north side of Chimborazo has been melting making rockfall an increasing concern. Having a bad gut feeling I could not ignore, I spoke with the other guides and we decided climbing up with ten other climbers ahead of us was too risky on a route with substantial rock fall hazard. During the night two team members began having diarrhea and a guide threw up. I took this as a sign and began to reevaluate the situation. Over breakfast the guides laid out an alternative mountain that we felt would have a much better chance of success given the teams health and über challenging route on Chimborazo. A discussion was held and a difficult but good decision was made to abandon Chimborazo and go to Illiniza Sur. This will be a more technically challenging but safer and shorter climb. We are all a bit bummed to not be giving our main objective a shot but also psyched we are all still together. We leave the hostel tonight at eleven and will send word of the climb tomorrow. Stay tuned. RMI Guide Adam Knoff
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We are all watching your precarious adventures biting our nails from the coffee shop in Los Angeles. Worried sick that Clark will get a blister or lose his beauty sleep (he can’t afford to!). He said he was tired of walking the dog everyday but don’t you think this is a bit extreme, Clark?
Wishing you all safe passage home!
XO, from all of us here at sea level

Posted by: Ted Craig CJ on 1/16/2013 at 3:29 pm

Sorry to hear about the hardships but I had to go back to work today and that’s no fun either…haha I hope everyone feels better and you can all end the trip on a high note.

Posted by: Albert on 1/15/2013 at 3:33 pm


Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Enjoy Another Rest Day

Hey all, One more rest day here at 14,000'. The weather isn't bad, actually really warm for May, but it wasn't perfect this morning so we decided to take one more day of rest. We took the opportunity of a break in the clouds after breakfast to head out to the Edge of the World for some spectacular photos. Just outside of 14 camp, the Edge of the World is where Genet Basin falls away 5,000' to the NE fork of the Kahiltna. The views are spectacular, and we were able to see our first camp at the base of Ski Hill, as well as the climber's track heading up the glacier from Base Camp. It was great to have a chance to stretch our legs, and with our impending summit attempt, the stoke meter is a solid 8 today. Everyone is getting amped up to head high, but with that comes a little bit of nerves for everyone knowing how much effort is just around the corner. Wishing everybody well, over and out from 14,000' RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer and the gang

On The Map

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Hi Mai sounds like all is well way up there.  Town is good and going up to the lake with Bob this weekend for some sailing should be fun.  I know you are ready for the summit so have fun and please be safe.  I miss you tons I will keep my finger crossed that the weather is perfect and that all will be good.  Love you xoxo Mom

Posted by: Ginny on 5/25/2012 at 4:00 pm

Can’t help applauding you and your team again, Rob. Your pluck and spirits do our hearts good.

Posted by: Pamela on 5/25/2012 at 12:56 pm


Elbrus Northside Team Visits Moscow

Dobry vecher from Moscow, By seven last night the entire team - including all bags and gear! - reached our hotel in Moscow to kick off the 2009 RMI Elbrus Northside Expedition! The team was tired from the hours of traveling from halfway around the world, but excited to be here as we shared a drink with the sun setting over the buildings and illuminating the Moscow River. We found a little cafe down the street from the hotel where, with two English menus amongst the ten of us, we managed to order a delicious dinner through a mix of broken English and phrasebook Russian. Afterwards, we returned to the hotel for a well deserved rest. This morning we made the short walk from our hotel across the Moscow River and along the red walls of the Kremlin to Red Square. We arrived early enough to beat the crowds of tourists and admired the stunning architecture of the GUM (the Soviet State Department Store), St. Basil's Cathedral with it's unmistakable brightly colored onion-shaped domes, and the dark red walls of the Kremlin, the seat of Soviet and now Russian government. After visiting Lenin's tomb, walking through the dark and somber marble building, we met our local Muscovite, Nina, who led us on a tour of this famous area. We walked through the shops of the GUM whose shelves used to stock basic provisions and now houses luxury brands like Dior, then explored the dozens of small, beautifully painted chapels that make up St. Basil's Cathedral, before watching the changing of the guards at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. We ended our tour by making our way through the gates of the Kremlin and exploring it's beautiful churches, gardens, and monuments - such as the largest bell and cannon in the world. After a full day of sightseeing we relaxed for a few hours in the afternoon, taking some time to explore Moscow on our own. We are headed to a fantastic Georgian restaurant tonight to sample cuisine straight from the Caucasus before we head down there ourselves tomorrow. We are catching a morning flight to Mineralyne-Vody, the gateway to the northern Caucasus. We will check-in tomorrow night from the town of Kislovodsk, our launching point for our climb of Elbrus' wild northside.
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