The Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams were walking into the crater rim just before 7:00 a.m. The weather is fairly warm with a cloud deck at 6,400'. They will spend some time on top as they cross the crater rim to Columbia Crest before starting their descent.
Thursday, July 2, 2014 – 4:43 PM PT
Yesterday our team experienced the unparalleled vistas of a clear sky at 16,200’ on Denali as we were finally handed a nearly perfect day. We loaded up three days of lunch and snack food plus a few personal items for our carry to the top of the fixed lines which crest Washburn’s Ridge—the most stimulating section of Denali’s West Buttress Route. The team did great learning how to jumar. All members of the St. Angelo family and Jay and Mary Lampas hit personal altitude records. Fatima did a great job breaking trail down the lines, literally paving the way for thirty other climbers on the same program as us.
The population of 14k camp has increased dramatically. What once was a camp that resembled a wide cow pasture with wandering wildlife now resembles a city with distinct neighborhoods on main thoroughfares. Just like a city, this can create traffic jams when multiple teams, all roped together, try to move around at the same time. This sudden influx of guided teams means we will need to wake up at 4 am, while the temperature here sits around 5 below, just to beat the crowds and avoid a bottleneck.
This afternoon we had a lengthy breakfast which leaned more along the lines of a leisurely brunch. We then took a beautiful stroll to an incredible precipice called the Edge of the World. Great weather allowed us more breathtaking views and inspired us for the hard days to come. Hopefully our next contact will be from high camp.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
June 11, 2014 3:14pm PT
Greetings from Team No Troubles,
Sitting here for another rest day at 14,200'. Cold temperatures and steady wind have been the story of the day, and we made the right decision to stand by for the time being.
Last night saw the mercury plummet to an ambient temp of -17F, which is much more common up here in April than it is in June. Combine that temp with winds in camp of about 15mph and you have a recipe for immediate freezing of any exposed skin, as the wind chill hovers somewhere between -45 and -50F. Brrrrr shiver!
So instead of our planned carry to the top of the fixed lines, we'll stay in camp today, on a steady orbit around our posh and sleeping tents. The team is on guard against any uninvited trespassing into our bathroom, too, as we've had more than one inquiry from other folks about using our lovely on-mountain comfort station.
Keep sending warm thoughts, and hopefully warmer weather, our way! Keep the comments coming too, we love to hear from y'all. From a frosty 14K camp.
RMI Guides Bryan, Tyler, Garrett and the No Troubles Crew
Hey everybody this is Billy checking in from 17,000’ on Mt. McKinley or Denali.
Another day of high winds has kept us pinned down at high camp. We were hoping the forecasted 20 mph summit winds were going to be a reality today but unfortunately they were not. So we were stuck in camp, hanging out and eating snack food.
Tomorrow’s forecast is again for more good weather so wish us luck that it actually comes to fruition. If it does we’ll be taking a crack at the summit tomorrow. I will check in with you guys later.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
on pins and needles waiting to see if you guys summit today! i’m hanging out with connolly tonight in order to have my own little adventure. i miss you much! love you- janie
We have spent a few days in Mendoza City enjoying the great weather that this place offers in January (southern hemisphere summer). The swimming pool was the RMI meeting center during the afternoons...
Dinners (Argentinian beef and Malbec wines) have been excellent according to the taste of our team. The team members began to depart to the U.S. today. This was a great trip, with a lot of fun, unique views, amazing people, and a safe, successful ascent.
Cheers and thank you for following our progress on this expedition to the top of South America.
RMI Guides Gabriel Barral, Pete Van Deventer and Garret Stevens
Greetings from Namche,
The clear weather has continued to hold and we were greeted to spectacular views of the three summits Kwangde bathed in morning light across the valley. The weekly Saturday morning market was going on this morning. Ending at 9am in order to allow the Sherpa from surrounding areas to get back home with their goods, the market is perched on a series of three terraces on the eastern side of Namche. Traders spread their goods out along the narrow terraces, bartering over items that range from fresh vegetables to spices to buffalo meat to packaged foods and cheap knockoff running shoes. We wandered amongst the action, admiring both the diversity of goods and the setting in which it all takes place.
As the market began to wind down we climbed up to the Army Post that sits above Namche. From it's hilltop perch we caught our first glimpse further up the Khumbu Valley to the looming Everest massif. Everest's famous pyramidal summit was clearly visible alongside that of Lhotse, Everest's neighbor and fellow 8000m peak. From both summits flew giant plumes of snow and wind, indicating that the jet stream still lies firmly planted over the region and the climbing season is still several weeks off - although expeditions began their approach now to be in position for when the jet finally abates. A small museum sponsored by the National Park sits at the Army Post as well and we took the opportunity to learn more about the regions fauna, flora, geology, and culture. Afterward we dropped by another small museum run by a deaf Sherpa who is a talented photographer and has tirelessly assembled an impressive collection of traditional Sherpa artifacts, relics of former mountaineering expeditions, photographs of many traditional Sherpa holidays and festivals, and a meticulous log of all Everest summiteers, Western and Sherpa alike.
Afterward we had a relaxing afternoon in Namche, wandering it's narrow streets and small shops packed with goods, visiting the recently renovated Monastery perched on the hill at the edge of town, and taking time to relax atop some of the large boulders carves with colorful Buddhist prayers and take in the mountainous panorama in the afternoon sun. While a restful day, today has been important in our acclimatization process and in preparing our bodies for the thin air higher up. Tomorrow we will build upon this by climbing to several villages above Namche to visit them before returning to Namche for our last night here on the ascent. The team is feeling strong and looking forward to tomorrow's day hike.
The Five Day Climb June 22 - 26 led by RMI Guides Walter Hailes and Henry Coppolillo took advantage of the clear and calm weather and made their summit attempt today. The entire team reached the crater rim of Mt. Rainier at 7 am on a beautiful day. The teams will return to Camp Muir and enjoy a leisurely afternoon. Tomorrow they will descending the remaining 4,500' to Paradise and conclude their program.
There were signs of improvement - or simply a change in the weather. It was still snowing a little and blowing a little, but it wasn't all that cold. We watched clouds and wind for a while, then pulled the trigger.
We set out from 11,000’ Camp at 11 AM and made fine progress up Motorcycle and Squirrel Hills. The Polo Field put up a little resistance, we had to break trail through new snow to reach Windy Corner at 13,200 ft. The clouds denied us the big views. But we were excited to see Denali's South Peak and the West Buttress as we came around the corner and reached our 13,500’ goal for the day. We cached gear and got moving downhill with lighter packs, pulling back into 11,000’ Camp by 6 PM.
June 25, 2014 - 12:26 am PT
And so it begins... The last RMI Denali team of 2014 took shape today in the Anchorage airport. We assembled, seven climbers and four guides from around the world lugging about 23 or 24 giant duffel bags of cold weather gear. The team took a ride with Denali Overland, our shuttle service to Talkeetna. The three hour trip was broken by a stop for provisions in Wasilla, but then we powered on up the Parks highway to our Talkeetna turnoff. We had pretty good views of the Chugach Range as we left Anchorage but the Alaska Range stayed mostly hidden under cloud. There were some scattered rain showers to see, and a Bald Eagle or two, but no moose this time. We were in Talkeetna by 8:30 PM and getting settled into the comfortable Talkeetna Motel not much later. The big work of preparing to fly onto Denali begins in the morning.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
It was a great day here in St. Pete's!
We started the day with a walking tour of this beautiful city led by our wonderful local guide Natasha. She took us to the major sites and enlightened us to the 300 years of this city's history. We took a short break where some folks did a little exploring on there own, and others headed to the famous Hermitage where we learned that if someone spent one minute at every piece of art, it would take 8 years to view it all! Needless to say, we saw only a fraction of it.
Later in the evening the team headed out on a final tour of this majestic city by boat. We spent an hour touring the city from its many canals, which was a great way to wrap up our trip.
It's been a wonderful adventure with a great team. We are all thankful for the great weather we've had, but are looking forward to getting back home.
Missing all of our families and most of our friends.
See ya soon!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
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Congrats, Alex & Hamilton! Cant wait to see more pics and hear all about it
Posted by: Russ on 6/23/2019 at 5:11 pm
alex and hamilton, i am so very proud of you, and cannot wait to hear about it; love, dad
Posted by: Steve Wrenn on 6/23/2019 at 10:10 am
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