Hello from Everest Basecamp! We have finally arrived! We woke to gorgeous weather and a psyched team. The trail to basecamp is rocky with little ups and downs from Gorak Shep. We are in the moraine of the glacier walking ice but it's just buried under the dirt. Many yak trains passing by brought us to the infamous rock that says Everest Base Camp. After many photos the team continued the trek into Basecamp. For us our camp happened to be on the far side. More walking but more to see with all the Everest Expeditions setting up for their teams arrivals come April. Our camp is cozy with a dining tent, bathroom tents and even a shower tent. The nights get cold so it's not too late of a night before we all crawl into our sleeping bags for warmth. Tomorrow we will
explore the glacier and do a little training for the upcoming climb on Lobuche.
Today we arrived to the base of Lonquimay to a fresh blanket of snow glistening in the morning sun. The nice weather was quite a contrast to what we’ve experienced thus far. And we enjoyed it thoroughly for the first couple hours of skinning. But there was a cloud cap over the summit (“a hat” as Sergio our outfitter calls it). The higher we went, the colder it got, and soon we were in whiteness, getting blasted by a frigid wind. We kept on though, and reaching the top we were blessed. The wind stopped. The skies cleared. The views opened. And we were lined up for some of the best powder skiing I’ve had down here. Our first cumbre of the trip took some perseverance, but man it paid off...
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
June 17, 2017 1:43 pm PST
Hello from the upper airstrip of Denali Basecamp. We made the arduous descent from high camp in snowy and windy conditions down to 11,000ft last evening. We unfortunately did not get a break from the weather... WINDS.
Today we had a very alpine start to climb down to base camp in the cold of early morning in order to reduce our chances of breaking through snow bridges on the lower glacier. We were able to do just that! After arriving we were told the normal runway was to bumpy and crevassed. The whole team finished strong up the bonus hill to the upper runway. The weather continues to follow us here in The Alaska Range as I type this blog the fog and mist hold strong for the moment. When the clouds part we will be on the first planes to Talkeetna and on our way back from an amazing trip with lots of learning, and humbling moments. We have learned that the Summits are for our ego and the Journey is for our soul. The mountain is not going anywhere and we can always come back as long as we play safe in the mountains.
High hopes for flying back to reality!
Cheers,
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
Our team has safely reached Base Camp. They will spend two nights there before descending to Driver's Camp on Tuesday, October 4th to meet their vehicles and begin the two day drive back to Lhasa. From there they will take a flight to Kathmandu. They intend to spend a few days in Kathmandu to honor their friend and fellow climber. Team members will then depart Kathmandu to make their way back to family and friends.
All of the team members are doing well and are supporting each other. Our hearts are with them.
The RMI Office Team
Always thinking of you and praying for all of your safe return.
Posted by: Jane Knoff on 10/3/2016 at 4:58 am
We’re so relieved you all made it back to base camp safely. We hope you get plenty of rest. Please extend our deepest condolences to the Sherpa’s family and friends. We’re looking forward to seeing you soon.
Geese gabble on the banks of the Crooked River as it winds around the cliffs of lithified volcanic ash that make up our classroom here in Smith Rock State Park, Oregon. It's day nine of ten on the American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) Rock Guide Course, a program focused on multi-pitch rock guiding and rescue techniques in fourth and fifth class terrain. This course is the first step to becoming certified by the AMGA in one of three guiding disciplines - rock, alpine and skiing.
In the days leading up to this we have worked through systems on the ground and on the cliff, and have guided each other while maintaining a play-by-play discussion to ensure that each participant learns from the mistakes and successes of the others. As participants, we are here to transition from competent recreational climbers to facilitators of climbing in a professional setting. There are myriad new techniques and subtleties that I have been exposed to in the last eight days.
Today is framed as a mock exam in which participants are put in the driver’s seat for a few pitches of climbing and descending. I do my best to put it all together - to select the best new tool in my tool box and implement it successfully. Throughout the exercise I notice how much more comfortable and confident I am with this process since the first time I was given the reins only a few days ago. I now feel equipped to enter the realm beyond recreational rock climbing.
My participation in this course was made possible by the RMI Guide Grant, and I cannot express my gratitude enough.
RMI Guide Hannah McGowan
RMI Guide Jake Beren and the Mount Rainier summit climb began their descent from the crater rim at 7:55 a.m. They spent over an hour on the summit in beautiful and crisp weather.
Congratulations to today's summit climbers!
We dragged out an oxygen bottle to practice with, just after breakfast. It does take a little practice, by the way, to get good with the systems we rely on up high. Today we were just familiarizing ourselves with how the regulators attach to the bottles, how the hoses attach to the regulators, and how the masks attach to the face. I like doing this sort of run-through down in the thick air on a rest day in the sunshine so that when we have to get up in the middle of the night at a bajillion feet above sea level with cold hands and dim brains, we can maybe muddle through and get our hook-ups and flow-rates right. It all seemed reasonably simple this morning, and each of my little team put the gas bottle carefully in their pack, the mask on their face and some goggles or glasses on their eyeballs, and then took the rig for a test drive around camp.
Over the radio, we could hear the gang with Peter Whittaker up above as they were taking another stroll on the Lhotse Face. It all sounded like it was going well as they checked in with one another and pointed out interesting features along the route. We heard that Jake Norton was coming down to BC to deal with a chest cold and, like most news, we immediately sorted it into its good and bad components. The bad news: Jake would need to slow down long enough to get well. The good news: Jake is a smart, strong guy who knows how to shake a typical, run-of-the-mill expedition illness out of his system, and we won't mind having him around in BC.
Erica Dohring and I went for a glacier walk after lunch. I do want her following the slacker example that Seth and I set for getting quality rest during our BC downtime. She is a voracious reader, which ought to qualify her for a fine life of expeditioning. I'm impressed with the way she orders her time, alternating between books for fun, books for school, and the odd movie on a borrowed iPod Touch. That is good resting, and it is important, but I also wanted to mix in a little exercise clambering around in the glacier today. I'm a big believer in keeping the legs stretched and the reflexes tuned for making awkward steps. We went out for about two hours, finding our way to a medial moraine and then hiking down-glacier with an occasional semi-frozen stream crossing to negotiate. I'm trying to teach Erica to violently knock over every fragile pinnacle of ice and balancing rock that she encounters...for no particular reason...and she is rapidly gaining skill in this department.
The late afternoon is gray and overcast with a hint of snow flurries. We've gotten so used to the thunder of avalanches now at BC that it takes a particularly loud and violent one to get us out of the tents for a look. At the moment, though, it is quiet and cold enough that the team is starting to find their way to the dining tent for hot drinks, gossip magazines, and card games. Tomorrow, we'll be a little busy preparing for the mountain again, and my guess is that we will be torn between lazy thoughts of staying indefinitely in BC and antsy thoughts of getting up where the action is again.
January 12, 2015, 1:30 PM PT
This is Zeb Blais checking in from high camp with a jubilant summit team. Today we topped out on Aconcagua at 2 PM in adverse weather conditions. We fought through a small snowstorm to get to the top and spent a brief time taking pictures on the summit before descending back down to camp where we are now hydrating, resting and preparing to head back to base camp tomorrow. Thanks for checking in.
January 12, 2015, 9:20 AM PTRMI Guide Zeb Blais just called from the Aconcagua summit! The team did well and they will check back in from high camp.
Congratulations to the team!
RMI Guide Zeb Blais calls in from high camp after their successful summit.
Just phoned RMI and the team is down theountain and will be in Mendosa today or tomorrow! Wow- the trip down is certainly faster than the trip up! Just thought I would post this update for those who are wondering what happened to our team!
Posted by: PKW on 1/15/2015 at 8:50 am
Haven’t had an update in many days. Are you all partying it up in base camp now?
It was great to be in Vinson Base last night... Quiet and peaceful (once the airplanes quit bringing climbers in, that is, sometime after 2 AM). We got going this morning at the usual VBC civilized hour of 9 AM. There was plenty to do in getting sorted, getting breakfast and getting some meeting time in with the other climbing guides and the ALE staff. Eventually we got tents down, packs loaded, and our ropes tied for glacier travel. We were first out of camp at 1:43 PM. Conditions were excellent and we made great time, arriving at the 9,000 ft "Low" Camp at 6:30, having traveled 5.6 miles. Sunburn was of more concern to us than frostbite today. The views of Vinson's giant and jagged northern neighbors- Shinn, Epperly and Gardner, were stupendous. Our camp went up quick and easy. Dinner went down without any hiccups and we were in bed by 11 PM. All were warned that the brilliant sunshine would warm the tents only until 3 AM. Then, although the sun won't set, it will go behind our mountain for about eight hours and life will be cold in the shadows. We'll reemerge from the tents at 11 AM to see what sort of day we have.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
The Four Day Summit Climb team led by RMI Guide JJ Justman and the Five Day Summit Climb team led by RMI Guide Leon Davis reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams reported clear skies with 15-20 mph winds. The teams will descend to Camp Muir and take a short break before continuing their descent to Paradise.
We look forward to seeing the teams back at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
OMG! Great job Ron I didn’t doubt even a sec you were gonna make it. Congratulations. Now you can check this item of your bucket list. Diego says you are unbelievable! Lol:)
Posted by: Edda Zabala on 8/7/2014 at 12:38 am
Way to go guys! An amazing accomplishment to add to your lists!
Look forward to hearing all the stories Amir !!! :-) most importantly everyone is safe and sound. Will be good to have you back ! :-)
Posted by: René on 6/18/2017 at 6:36 pm
So sorry you didn’t summit but I’m glad everyone is safe. I am so proud of you, Bill. Happy Fathers’ Day to a great Dad. Love, Marie
Posted by: Marie Toro on 6/18/2017 at 7:40 am
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