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Aconcagua: Liken & Team Carry Gear to Camp 2

It was cold and windy today on our gear bump to 18,000' with most of the team climbing in all our insulating layers. The sunny skies kept us moving and everyone did great! The views from Camp 2 inspired the team as we breathed the thin air. We are back at Camp 1 now ready to devour some Mac and cheese. RMI Guide Ben Liken

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Dave, I promise you a cheese cake when you come home! We miss you. Be safe!

Posted by: Nancy Hicks on 2/9/2017 at 8:39 am


McKinley Expedition: Mike Walter & Team Arrive in Talkeetna Alaska

The 2014 RMI Expeditions Denali climbing season is officially underway. Our team spent yesterday in the town of Talkeetna readying our gear for flying on to the Kahiltna Glacier. An expedition of this magnitude necessitates a good deal of preparation, and while our planning and preparation has gone on for months now, we still had a lot of work to do. The day started off with a team breakfast at the Talkeetna Roadhouse before heading over to the National Park Service for our pre-trip orientation meeting. Then it was over to K2 Aviation's hangar to get our equipment ready for our glacier landing. This involved finalizing the packing of our personal kits as well as combing over the group gear, setting up tents, firing up stoves, and generally assuring that everything was in top working condition before loading it into the airplane. The weather is forecast to be very good for flying, and expect to be on the Kahiltna Glacier by midday on Thursday. Hopefully that's the case and our next dispatch will be from the Alaska Range. We'll do our best to keep you up to date with the latest. RMI Guide Mike Walter
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Best wishes for continued good weather, a cohesive team, and safe, fun climbing conditions!

Avery says, “Go, Pops, Go!”!  Climb smart Dad!

Extra shout out to a great guide, Mike!

Posted by: MandyS on 5/9/2014 at 10:46 am

Best wishes for a safe and fun climb. May the weather gods be kind!

Posted by: Bill Gately on 5/9/2014 at 4:13 am


Kilimanjaro: Justman & Team Begin Their Safari in Lake Manyara National Park

After spending the night at the Dik Dik Hotel celebrating our summit success, our team loaded into “pop-top” Land Rovers to begin our safari. Today we explored Lake Manyara National Park and saw many animals, which some are included in the video below. The team is doing great and enjoying the different landscapes that we are experiencing here on safari. RMI Guide JJ Justman
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Mt. McKinley: Billy Nugent and Team Move to 17,000’

Hey, this is Solveig checking in for Billy, Mike, Tim and Drew from Mt. McKinley. Yesterday we packed up camp at 14,000’ and had a great move to our high camp at 17,300 feet. The first part of the move we enjoyed calm winds and warm sunshine. It was a lot of fun to be climbing in such great conditions. However, about two-thirds of the way up to high camp we were hit by 30 -45 mile per hour winds which persisted all the way into camp. There were a lot of teams camped at 17,000’ when we arrived but we found an area to build our camp and spent the next three hours digging ten platforms and building walls to protect our tents. One particularly strong gust knocked over our completed wall. We began cooking dinner and settling in and the winds subsided. We enjoyed a calm evening inside the protection of our tents and surrounding sturdy walls. Today we are eating and resting and enjoying light winds and good weather. Tim wanted to wish his mom a “Happy Birthday”. RMI Guide Solveig Garhart
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Sounds like a good day, exhausting but good!  Hope you can all rest.
We are thinking of you and looking forward to hearing all about it.  Enjoy!!
Love, Mom

Posted by: Shirl on 5/26/2011 at 6:56 pm

Solveig and Team- Great to hear you are at high camp enjoy the rest!! Wish I was with you! Love Dad

Posted by: Jim Garhart on 5/26/2011 at 5:29 am


Mt. Rainier Winter Seminar - April 10 - 15

There were many bright spots to what was otherwise a very cold, snowy and windy week on Mt. Rainier. Our team met on Sunday for our six -day Expedition Seminar and our day of prep was well used as we got our gear all ready for a possible push to Camp Muir the next day. However, the weather on Monday was marginal for moving to Muir, so we got a great day of training on the mountain and camped at about 6,200’ below Panorama point. Tuesday was blue bird and made for excellent hiking conditions to Camp Muir which the entire team reached in good shape. From there the weather conditions deteriorated and Wednesday saw temperatures reaching 2 degrees F with winds averaging 30-40 mph. But that did not keep us from training. Our team only ascended a few feet higher than Camp Muir at 10,188’, but we had a great experience and learned a ton, much of which came courtesy of Mother Nature. Friday the winds abated enough to allow us to descend back to Paradise, although it was still windy, snowy and a white out much of the time. But everybody did really well cramponing and snowshoeing down to Paradise. We later celebrated the week and our time together sharing a burger and a cold one at our favorite local restaurant. From the comfort of the dining room I could take stock of the really bright spot of the week: sharing time with a remarkable group of individuals. RMI Guide Brent Okita
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Ecuador Seminar: Knoff & Team’s Acclimatization Takes Them to Rucu Pichincha

Today we continued our acclimatization with a hike of Rucu Pichincha (15,411'), a peak nearby in Quito. A teleferico (gondola) carried us to about 13,000', where we began ascending. Although a light rain greeted us on our arrival, the precip quickly gave way to a pleasant mixture of clouds and clear skies. The team made the summit in good style, but unfortunately the clouds obstructed our views. We made it back down to the gondola just in time to avoid a torrential downpour, and returned to the city to relax and prepare for our move to Otavalo. The team is in great spirits and everyone handled the altitude very well! RMI Guide Taylor Bickford
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

WHERE’S the SNOW!?
I’m following this because I was fortunate enough to be on Adam’s Ecuador team last year and I’m re-living it in 2019 - we made it to the high summit of Chimborazo last year ON THIS DAY in 2018! - Cumbre Whymper! 20,704’
You are in the best of hands under Adam’s guidance!
Godspeed Team Knoff!
My best -
Tom

Posted by: Thomas Mulvey on 1/10/2019 at 9:49 pm

Your views today may have been a bit blah, but you, Team Ecuador, are looking MAHVELOUS! Can’t wait for your next update. Thanks for taking the time to keep those at home in the loop.

Posted by: Tracey Wife-of-Ken Maxwell on 1/10/2019 at 7:31 pm


Gokyo Trek: Elias and Team Follow the Trade Route to Thame

Tashi Delek! We arrived to Thame today, leaving behind the main path to the Everest route, and with it, the herds of other trekkers who seek the one objective mostly everyone is after when hiking around here; Everest Base Camp. Venturing straight towards Tibet is definitely interesting, as the landscape changes a bit, modified by the nature of the main trading route, that unfortunately is now closed by the Chinese. At any rate, we were happy to continue upwards after a day acclimatizing in Namche. We're doing well, enjoying the journey and pushing uphill! RMI Guide Elías deAndres Martos and Team
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Mountaineering Training | Steady State Workouts

Building an endurance base takes more than just long easy-paced workouts. Long workouts create the muscular efficiency to deal with long miles, but moderate intensity intervals and steady state workouts are important for building a solid endurance circulatory system that, in concert with your long workouts, makes up your endurance base. A great aspect of steady state training is that you can incorporate it in a variety of training mediums: running, mountain biking, road biking, swimming, rowing, or hiking.  

A steady state workout encompasses a sustained period of hard effort, paced just under what you would consider your race pace or the maximum pace that you can sustain for a given distance. Sustained efforts between twenty minutes and an hour and fifteen minutes have been shown to be most effective for this type of training. There is an obvious difference in pace between a twenty-minute effort and an hour plus effort: the goal is to sustain the pace that you start the workout at all the way until the end of the workout. The pace is typically about 10% less than your maximum effort over a similar time period. You can use a variety of methods to measure your pace and success of the workout: heart rate monitors, your minutes per mile, or for those with more experience, basing your pace on perceived effort or feel, are all effective methods. Though the pace is below your maximum effort, this workout is uncomfortable, and one of the biggest challenges is to stay with the workout mentally and maintain the pace throughout without letting the pace drop. This mental component is also great training for climbers, since this is exactly the mental toughness that you need in the midst of a tough stretch of terrain.  

Note: As the intensity of your workouts increase, the importance of a quality warm-up and cool-down cannot be overstated. This is a really important aspect for preventing injuries.

Steady state workouts provide a couple of key training objectives. Accomplished over several months as part of an endurance building block, these workouts increase cardiac output (the amount of blood pumped by the heart), decrease resting heart rate, and increase lactate threshold. To increase cardiac output, your body is stimulated to increase the capillary network that delivers oxygenated blood to your muscles, to increase the capacity of existing capillaries, and to increase your blood volume. These factors help your circulatory system to deliver oxygen and nutrients to your muscles and remove waste products. An increase in your lactate threshold indicates that your body is able to remove lactate efficiently at higher levels of effort, so that you can exercise harder and longer before fatiguing. Finally, a drop in resting heart rate indicates that your heart is operating more efficiently, delivering blood to your muscles with less effort.  

The training gains from incorporating steady state training into your routine will help you push longer and harder in the mountains, and the ability to move more blood that contains more oxygen will do nothing but help with the effects of altitude as well! These are difficult workouts, but keep your head in the game and push hard all the way through the end and you’ll be amazed at your endurance gains!

_____

Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hello Jon! I am actually looking for training information for Mt. Rainier, next June, 2019. I came across your comment posted in January of 2018, re: Mt. Kilimanjaro. My son’s girlfriend and her aunt just completed Kilimanjaro!! There were a couple 53 and approx. 55 year old women on this climb; including my son’s gf’s aunt! It was challenging; but they did it! I think you can access the notes from the climb. Go for it! I am looking to get strong and ready for Mt. Rainier next June; I will be 61, I totally understand your questions! :-) Hope you got to move forward on this, and either have since completed Mt. Kilimanjaro, or will soon!

Posted by: Shelby Schneider on 9/19/2018 at 5:55 pm

I am a previous customer of RMI, having climbed Rainier a few years ago.
I am interested in the Kili trek.
What is the average age of the group, typically?
I will be 64 in August.
I dont want to travel half way around the world and spend all that $$$$ and not complete the mission! I dont want to be the guy ‘holding up the expedition’ so to speak.
What is your feeling about the trek vs. my age
PS: I am in good physical condition, and work out daily.

Thanks

Posted by: Jon Mitovich on 1/18/2018 at 1:28 pm


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Progressing Well Down Hill

July 1, 2017 12:51 a.m. PST We awoke to wind and snow this morning at our 17,000 ft camp. This did not phase our crew after our successful summit day yesterday. All we wanted to do is head down to warmer, thicker air. We made it all the way down to our old 11,000 ft camp, where we decided to set up tents and nap a bit. This puts us within striking distance of the airstrip at basecamp. We will have to get on the trail around 3:00 or 4:00 to make sure that the lower glacier is still frozen while we make our way to basecamp. We want those crevasse bridges as strong as possible! Wish us good flying weather for tomorrow! RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

The pictures are amazing !incredible feat!
Safe home!

Posted by: Kevin Murray on 7/2/2017 at 5:04 am


Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team - Snow Apocalypse

June 26, 2014 - 6:37 pm PT The entire team woke up at 2 am to a winter wonderland. With wind blowing and snow stacking the team had to wake up, strap on their boots and grab our shovels. What was a nice camp with all tents visible to each other some 30 feet distance, is now a maze of deep trenches leading blindly to six-foot deep pits, each holding a team member's house. Approximately 40 inches of snow fell by morning in camp, completely covering our posh tent. Currently the snow continues to fall. A call on the satellite phone to the rangers at advanced base camp at 14,000 ft told us that five feet of snow had fallen there. Some loose snow avalanches were observed on south facing slopes around camp-- a reminder that winter is still upon us on Denali. We have had mixed results with the accuracy of the weather forecast, however in the extended outlook a high pressure system may be headed our way later this weekend and early next week. It is times like these that test the will and patience of any Denali climber. Thank God for Lindsay's Cosmopolitan magazine. RMI Guides Adam Knoff, Lindsay Mann and Andy Hildebrand

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

I’ve often thanked God for Lindsay’s superior choice in high quality reading options as well. Hope you enjoyed your snow day and that there was bacon.

Posted by: C59 Tripee on 6/28/2014 at 10:29 am

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