Hey, this is Linden calling with a dispatch from Chukung.
We woke up this morning to an absolutely beautiful morning - one of the best of the trip. We had a pretty relaxed breakfast. After our long day yesterday, it was nice to sit in the sun and enjoy that second cup of coffee. We headed from Pheriche up the Imja Khola Valley and were surrounded by Ama Damblam, Nupste and Lhotse. Just up the valley is Island Peak and we were staring right at it. We checked into our tea house and had a relaxing afternoon. We spent some time parring down our gear for our climb.
Tomorrow we are headed to Base Camp and plan to spend some time finishing up the last of our training. We will talk to you tomorrow from Island Peak Base Camp!
We are back down in the lap of luxury...aka Everest Basecamp. Our final round of preparation is finished; next time up will be for all the summit marbles.
The last couple of days at ABC were somewhat surreal. Yesterday morning, I came out of the tent at 6 AM fully expecting to still be in the middle of the storm we'd been enjoying for days. The forecasts had called for the same bit of jet stream to be snaking back and forth over the range, with continued potential for big snowfall. But as I looked up at the Lhotse Face, trying to decide whether we'd go for our planned sleepover at Camp III, the storm was nowhere to be seen. Certainly, the absence of this big snow and wind event was a good thing...but I was confused nonetheless. Was it a trap? Was it the well-known "sucker hole" phenomenon, wherein a break in the clouds lures climbers (also known as suckers) up to some place where they will be more vulnerable when the real storm rolls back in? I wanted my climbers-Seth, Erica and Kent-to get the exercise and confidence that would come with another attack on the Lhotse Face, and ideally, I wanted them to have a night up there near 24,000 ft. But if we were merely in a lull in the storm, and we cranked on up to Camp III well, then I could all too easily envision a little too much experience being gained, holding on all night as a hurricane tried to separate us from the wall and perhaps some good frostbite experience the following morning as we tried rapping down frozen ropes in a gale. So to get back to the point I stood there at ABC yesterday morning, looking at exactly the calm conditions I'd been hoping for all night, and I chickened out.
Seth was poking his head out of his tent and watching me chew on all of this in the shadows. He seemed to understand and agree with my concerns...we hadn't actually planned to do this CIII sleeping rotation without support and because no Sherpas had been able to get up from BC through the storm of the past day, we would essentially be undertaking the push with just Ang Kaji's help. Kaji is very capable, but the workload included an unknown (but most likely significant) amount of digging to get a storm-ravaged Camp III back in condition for our stay. "Sleeping" at Camp III is already an experience in misery...it is debatable as to whether humans actually acclimate to 24,000 ft. (as opposed to just dying cell by cell and becoming accustomed to that)...but I've always felt that it was useful to get the first shock of such an uncomfortable night out of the way before any summit bid. But add a few other shocks to that practice night and people can get so badly worked ok that they are not in any way, shape or form ready for the summit push the following week. SO by the time that Kent stuck his head out of his tent, I'd firmly decided that we would NOT attempt Camp III on this calm and pretty morning. Over breakfast, I explained that we'd just go for another hike to the base of the Lhotse Face. Since I was prone to frustration over how nice the weather seemed and how little we were taking "advantage" of the day I tried rationalizing for my partners so that they might avoid such glum and unproductive thoughts themselves. Perhaps it wasn't a "lull" in a storm at all perhaps it was the beginning of the big shift toward better weather that everybody had been waiting for. And without a run up the Lhotse Face, we had still managed to cobble together a pretty decent acclimatization round at ABC while nearly all other teams were sitting down valley, fretting over forecasts. Ang Kaji, Seth, Erica and I were all still healthy, we had all of ABC to ourselves (each team had basically left just one caretaker/cook per camp), and yesterday turned out to be nothing short of a stunningly nice, calm, warm day with an awesome sunset not really the kind of stuff to get frustrated over.
This morning we came on down toward BC. Carefully, since there hadn't been much traffic and the route through the Western Cwm was disguised by a few inches of new snow. Crevasses were lurking and just begging to be revealed by a misstep of my size 14.5 boots in the new powder. Then we came to the first Sherpas working up from BC and they got the benefit of our tracks while we enjoyed theirs. Ed Viesturs and Peter Whittaker weren't far behind with our first summit team. They'd come up through the Icefall and reported that a big chunk of the route had fallen out with a collapse near the glacier's center. I wasn't too concerned for our proposed descent since Peter's team had alerted the Icefall Doctors to the problem. We took a rest at old Camp I with summit-bound Melissa and Gerry, along with most of our Sherpa team. Looking around at the remaining tents belonging to other teams, I was amazed at how destructive the storm had been. Poles were broken, whole tents were uprooted and displaced, tents were half buried and squashed Camp I was a widespread mess. So I was pleased to find our First Ascent tent, intact and well anchored apparently ready for the next storm.
We bid our teammates good luck, donned our climbing helmets and dove down into the Khumbu Icefall. Sure enough, when we reached the collapse in the middle, Icefall Doc Ang Nima from Dingboche was already swinging his trusty hammer and fixing new rope with a partner. They'd cobbled together a fine detour that we took full advantage of. As usual, it was sobering to see the expanse of glacier (two acres?) that had simply caved in, but I was satisfied with the timing of the event. The glacier is welcome to do whatever it wants in the dead of night...just settle down for morning, please. My gang settled into Basecamp by about 11 a.m., about the same time that our teammates were getting to their new home at ABC...we'd pulled a neat switch. I'm sure that Peter, Ed, Melissa, Gerry, Jake, and John Griber were anxious as anything to get up there and get on with their climb, while we were pleased as punch to head for the showers and thick camp mattresses of BC again.
Our team got busy with getting ready today. We met after breakfast in the garden-like compound of our hotel -Rivertrees. The huge fig trees along the Usa River throw plenty of shade and make for a fine playground for various troupes of monkeys. Our meeting delved into the particulars of how the climb on Kilimanjaro will flow and just how we will prepare for it. The team then dispersed to their rooms for gear checks and ultimately packing and weigh-ins. The afternoon was spent in this way, and with a few naps and cups of tea in the garden thrown in. Having mostly come from the west coast of North America, our gang is thoroughly jet-lagged. It was exciting in the evening to greet Brent Okita and his successful team of Kili climbers as they returned to the hotel. We then enjoyed our dinner -the last before the big event- while on the other side of the dining area, they enjoyed theirs as a victory dinner.
Dave D and team…hope all is continuing to go great on the climb! Each day is sure to bring much excitement on how far you have come! Praying for God’s protection each day! Love and Blessings, Bev
Posted by: Bev Kittleson on 8/11/2023 at 6:56 am
Looks like a fantastic group. We are all cheering you on Allison from OFW.❣️❣️ Chris is so proud of you
June 15, 2015 8:57 pm PT
Hello everybody this is Geoff Schellens with the Upper West Rib team calling from the summit of Denali. It’s been quite a long day and a lot of tired folks but we are happy to be here. We are about to start our descent and we will check in from 17 Camp. Thanks everybody for following along.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens calls from the summit of Mt. McKinley with the Upper West Rib Team.
Weather ultimately dictates everything on these long expeditions and there's certainly no exception for our Team. Our agenda had us moving to Camp 2 this morning but we awoke to 40 mph winds and gusts of up to 60 mph here at Camp 1! Alas! You win again Aconcagua! Spirits remain high though as our forecasts call for more cooperating winds starting tomorrow and extending into early next week. So today we rest and prepare ourselves for the move to Camp 2 tomorrow. Best regards from all of us at Aconcagua's Camp 1.
RMI Guide Steve Gately
Via radio from Camp 2
Hey this is Seth checking-in from Advanced Basecamp (ABC) on Mt Everest with our summit folks.
The whole team is here just settling in for dinner. Everyone is doing great. (Cheers in background)
Tomorrow we plan on tackling the first part of the Lhotse face and spending the night at Camp 3. The weather forecast has been in and out but the last one shows some improvement. So we will plan to leave tomorrow morning in the dark, after one night at Camp 3 we will move up to the South Col and then finally the summit.
On a final note we want to wish our Basecamp Manager, Mark Tucker, a Happy Birthday! (Cheers in the background). Happy Birthday Tuck!
That is it from Advanced Basecamp.
After a final long day of walking we at last reached the end of the road today, arriving back at Lukla by late afternoon. With clear skies greeting us this morning we left Namche and dropped down the steep and dusty Namche Hill to the banks of the Dudh Kosi. Retracing our first days of walking several weeks ago, we wound our way along the river, through villages and fields of wheat and barley. With many miles under our feet already, and the altitude finally on our side, we made good time, quickly covering the miles between Namche and Lukla. The final hour was spent climbing the long but gentle ascent back into Lukla, arriving tired but happy, we sat down to a treat of apple struddel at our favorite bakery here in celebration of completing the trek.
The clouds have settled in on Lukla but a good forecast is issued for tomorrow. With luck we will hope on our plane first thing in the morning and be back in Kathmandu shortly thereafter!
Summit Success!
Our entire team reached the top of South Twin Sister with big smiles and perfect weather. It was a stunning day of climbing, and everyone crushed it! We made it back late last night, safe and sound, and spirits are high.
Now we’re gearing up for our next adventure: ice climbing on the lower Coleman Deming Glacier. Conditions look promising, and we’re excited to get back out there.
The Five Day Climb June 22 - 26 led by RMI Guides Walter Hailes and Henry Coppolillo took advantage of the clear and calm weather and made their summit attempt today. The entire team reached the crater rim of Mt. Rainier at 7 am on a beautiful day. The teams will return to Camp Muir and enjoy a leisurely afternoon. Tomorrow they will descending the remaining 4,500' to Paradise and conclude their program.
Today we took a rest day. We watched teams pack up as the clouds rolled in and out and snow trickled down. All day snow has pitter pattered against our tents. For most of the day we were engulfed by all white. Teams rolled in from below and from above bundled up and looking a little weathered. The hope is to move tomorrow but the forecast isn't looking the most promising. It would not make sense to journey through snow, wind, and single digit temps to set up a brand new camp. If the weather improves and holds we will move up, otherwise we will weather this storm here at 11,000' Camp. Send all the good weather vibes our way!
Dave D and team…hope all is continuing to go great on the climb! Each day is sure to bring much excitement on how far you have come! Praying for God’s protection each day! Love and Blessings, Bev
Posted by: Bev Kittleson on 8/11/2023 at 6:56 am
Looks like a fantastic group. We are all cheering you on Allison from OFW.❣️❣️ Chris is so proud of you
Posted by: Janet on 8/9/2023 at 5:56 am
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