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Team Readies For Move To Camp 1

There were lots of heavy boots trudging by the tents in the dark this morning. Climbers and sherpa bound for the Icefall, naturally. Not from our camp today though. It was another packing/rest day for our team. Seth Waterfall and I took the opportunity to get our climber out on the ice pinnacles after breakfast for some more training in rope techniques. Erica is looking more comfortable with each session of rappelling down and jugging up the lines we fix. While out there in the middle of the glacier, we heard (and felt) a few big rumbles as ice avalanches cut loose in various places. One tumbled down off Everest's West Shoulder and obviously crossed the Icefall climbing route, luckily missing any climbers in the process. That one certainly pointed up the need for a slightly better and more protected route in the region, and I was encouraged to hear that Willie Benegas may have found just such a route a little farther out toward the middle of the Khumbu Icefall. We shall see whether his discovery is accepted and improved by the Icefall Doctors responsible for fixing ropes and ladders. The Ice Docs are a great bunch of guys. We had them over for a small gift of hats and T-shirts yesterday evening, and we heartily thanked each of the seven men who have been risking their lives to find us safe passage through the big jumbled glacier pouring out of the Western Cwm. We were all astonished when Ang Nima mentioned that he'd been climbing on Everest since 1975, when he worked for Chris Bonington's famous Southwest Face expedition. Since Gerry shot that beautiful and frightening footage of an avalanche crossing the climbing route above Camp 1 we have received lots of questions and comments about such events. That particular event was likely the result of a snow cornice breaking up near Nuptse's summit at 25,000 ft. The cornice -an overhanging snow deposit- may have built up due to strong prevailing west winds in the night and then busted loose when the first strong rays of the sun hit it in the morning, causing it to settle and fracture. Due to that type of process, we have to worry about "new snow" avalanches even when there hasn't been any "new snow" falling from the sky. An ice avalanche, by contrast, is a piece of glacier breaking loose and cascading down. These are scary. They are also a very normal part of the way glaciers move. One cannot predict when a chunk of glacier has decided that it has hung around long enough and that it is now time to thunder down on whatever is below (chunks of glacier -more properly "seracs"- are not made of light, fluffy snow, but instead of dense ice the consistency of concrete). There are a number of "hanging glaciers" threatening the West Shoulder side of the Khumbu Icefall, as I mentioned, but we also need to be quite careful of the seracs that make up the Icefall itself... a hundred foot high tower of ice collapsing a hundred feet upslope can be difficult to get out of the way of. To most of us, there is something slightly more menacing and inescapable about an avalanche dropping in near freefall for 5000 ft. off the West Shoulder though. I suppose that it is like choosing to get hit by a slow bus rather than by a sports car at top speed, understanding that both bring a fair amount of discomfort. Our various routes do get "dusted" from time to time, as Gerry's video showed, with no actual debris crossing the climbing route, but a big and dramatic powder cloud engulfing those on the track and likely causing them to hit the deck and cover up for a minute or two. Our best strategies for dealing with avalanches on the lower part of the mountain involve moving as quickly as possible through known hazard areas and looking for alternate routes (as Willie apparently did today) when we can. We go early in the day, before sunrise, because this affords us some protection from certain types of avalanches, but it doesn't solve our problems with serac fall. Glaciers move in the night, just as they move in the day, and so their chunks continue to get pushed off randomly rather than when we'd like them to. Getting an early start just feels a lot safer in a world of frozen bridges and towers. The footing can get sloppy later in the day and the heat can get oppressive when the high-altitude sun gets bounced around enough in a concave valley. So when our first team of climbers (Ed, Melissa and Peter) move up tomorrow, they'll go early and they'll try to move at a business-like pace and they'll look after one another on the move to Camp 1, in addition to checking in by radio with those of us at basecamp. We take the hazards of this lower mountain seriously, which is why we've "waited" a week before setting sites on sleeping at Camp 1. Best to be acclimated and ready to use all of one's fitness for this particular push. We built up that fitness a little more this afternoon by hiking down to the approaches to basecamp for a building project. Many teams gathered, perhaps a hundred climbers, in order to build a helipad. We don't want to use the helipad for helicopters ... they tend to crash up here in the thin air and hard rock, and we all live in soft shelters that perform poorly when subjected to shrapnel. But of course, if there is an emergency evacuation that a helicopter may be the correct tool for, we want the pilots to enjoy a flat and stable pad of rock. So we all moved rock around for an hour while laughing, breathing heavily, and catching up with long-lost pals from the mountains. Plenty more Pujas took place today ... the gods have to be at least a little bit impressed with all of the offerings and pretty flags and fragrant smoke. Perhaps they'll mind those seracs and cornices for us while we get the safest possible routes established.
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Kilimanjaro: Okita & Team Arrive in Tanzania

Sunday, July 28, 2024 - 12:39 pm PT

At last the team is all together and ready to begin this extraordinary African adventure. As many people came in earlier they lost no time figuring out how to explore and learn more of this amazing country. Guided town walks were a big hit, as was a safari into our own nearby Arusha National Park.

Last night four of us were met by Emmanuel, the manager of Barking Zebra Tours, two of us enduring 24 hour straight push from Seattle.

Our last climber came in this afternoon, luggage in hand, so we're set for Day 1 of the trip.

Now, to catch up on some sleep and hope the jet lag keeps getting better. 

Talk tomorrow! 

RMI Guide Brent Okita

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

So proud of you Alan and can’t wait to see and hear all about it! With you in spirit! Love and miss you lots! Pierre, Coco and little Bert say hi :)

Posted by: Brenda Cowe on 7/30/2024 at 5:48 am

You got this Mimi (Myriam)!  Push hard and see you when you get home.  Love, Randy

PS. I hope you have the time of your life … Miss you!!!

Posted by: Randy Seay on 7/30/2024 at 5:35 am


Aconcagua: Blais and Team reach Casa de Piedra

We had a windy day getting into our second camp of the 3 day trek to Base Camp. The colors and terrain of the upper Vacas Valley really stood out. The team put up tents in 30+ mph winds, which will prepare them for higher camps. We're fixing to have a big meal to celebrate the new year tonight and are thinking of family and friends. We will get an early start in the morning so we arrive at Plaza Argentina and can relax after three hot and windy days. Thanks for following along. RMI Guide Zeb Blais and Team
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Happy New Year to Cheryl and the team.

Posted by: Jo on 1/1/2015 at 4:25 pm

Happy New Year!! Julian & Stephen from the party here at our house Karen, Mark, Kim, Sona, Vijay, Stephan ++ We had fireworks and champagne on the patio with kiddies too. We miss you both lots.
xoxo

Posted by: Karen on 1/1/2015 at 12:23 am


Kilimanjaro: Grom & Team Finish Safari with Not One, But Five Leopard Sightings!

Sorry about the delayed dispatch. We were literally off grid and out in the African bush. It's been one amazing adventure from start to finish and yesterday our last day on safari didn't disappoint. We spent the day in Tarangire National Park which is home to more elephants per square mile than any other place on earth. The elephants were plentiful as were many animals, but the highlight was seeing not one, but five leopards! We first came upon a male who had just killed an ostrich and then just few minutes later we pulled up on a mother and three cubs. Needless to say everyone has enjoyed the trip and are looking forward to getting home and sharing a few photos. Happy 25th birthday Jess! Glad we were all able to share this with you. RMI Guide Casey Grom
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Thanks so much Casey (and the whole A-team!) for the most incredible quarter century adventure and celebration! We’re back in NYC and missing the trip already. Casey, hope you haven’t shed too many tears yet since the team’s left—I hear if you put mayo on your eyes, it helps to soothe the tear ducts.

Until next time :)!

Posted by: Jess Tha Wienerschleider on 8/31/2013 at 11:35 am


Kilimanjaro: Hahn & Team Bid Farewell to Mountain Staff & Prepare for Safari

At breakfast this morning there were plenty of our team singing the praises of Mweka Camp and 10,000 ft living. The sleep was sooooo much better than at 15,000 ft. Food went down easier as well, and we put away plenty of it before hitting the trail at 8 AM. Within a few minutes of walking, we entered the rain forest. The day was dry and clear but as we descended, the trail was wetter and more muddy. We had to drop 4000 ft without slipping. This was made a bit more exciting by the hundreds of porters from various teams trying to get down the slippery track with big loads at high speed. We finished the journey at 10:30am and signed our names in the National Park registry at the Mweka Gate. We then enjoyed a final lunch with our staff, after which we were treated to a spirited song and dance session with all 46 of the men who helped us. We expressed our gratitude with tips for all and then shook hands to seal the deal…and to bid farewell.

We loaded onto the bus and made the two-hour ride back to the Rivertrees hotel. It was then a comfortable afternoon of showers and gear sorting. The adventure continues tomorrow with safari, but we took the time this evening to eat and drink together in celebration of our successful climb of Kilimanjaro. 

 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Elsie and Emmett loved your pictures of the celebration.  looks like everyone is celebrating this achievement of the climb.  Congratulations to the WHOLE team.

Posted by: judy reiner on 8/15/2023 at 5:11 am

Congrats Team! 
Woohoo, Allison! What an awesome accomplishment! Love you! -P

Posted by: Paula on 8/15/2023 at 1:35 am


Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Load Planes, Arrive at Kahiltna Base Camp

Thursday, June 10, 2021 - 6:09 pm PT

Good evening,

The sun made its way past the curtains flickering in the room. Knowing the sun was partly out was a good sign for flying today. As we made our way to the hangar, we got the call telling us to get our butts in gear. It was time to load the planes. Street shoes were traded in for boots, jeans traded for climbing pants. The air was filled with the roar of the planes and also nerves and excitment knowing that we were about to start our expeditions. Great views and a smooth ride brought us to the Kahiltna Base Camp. Just as we were so excited to fly onto the glacier, other teams stood ready and excited to fly off. We will be them in a few weeks. The rest of the day was spent setting up camp and refreshing skills. We will wake early tomorrow morning to make our way to the next camp.

Let the fun begin,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

So glad to hear the sun made an appearance and you’re underway. Best wishes for the whole team. I’m thinking of you Byron!

Posted by: Heather Collins on 6/11/2021 at 5:40 pm

Get it, Dustin!! Make Kareem proud with those clear glasses!

Posted by: Drew Dykstra on 6/11/2021 at 1:06 pm


Mt. Rainier: Gately & Four Day Climb on Summit!

The Four Day Climb July 13 - 16 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier on a beautiful day. RMI Guide Steve Gately and team were approaching the crater rim shortly after 7 AM. Clear skies and warm sunny temperatures were the report. Nice work team!
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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Descend to 11,000’ Camp

June 16, 2015 6:05 pm PT We arose to wind and a bit of ominous clouds at 17,000'. The team efficiently packed our camp to start the long decent back to our families and friends. After 6,000' of decent with a stop to gather our kit stashed at 14,000' and a wonderful quesadilla snack from Jake's team we have landed for some chill time. This is the life! We're at the beach of 11,000' camp soaking our battered feet in the sun soften snow. While puffing our sleeping bags over our tent flies which is conveniently shading us in our cabanas as we get some well deserved rest for the final push to Base Camp early tomorrow morning. Fingers crossed we will fly off to civilization tomorrow! Not that there are no other people to socialize with up here on Denali. Our team has done one heck of an awesome job and we have all created some great friendships! If all keeps going our way our next post will be the last from little Talkeetna, AK with a great evening of celebration! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations DG!
You certainly taxed the Weather Gods’ patience.
Great work- 3rd times the charm

Posted by: bruce freedman on 6/17/2015 at 5:58 am

Glad to hear the day went so well!!!
David and Mark, I know you were both in great shape but everyone must be exhausted by now….blessings for health and safety to all as you continue to descend. Won’t be long now till you trade your hiking boots for dancing shoes at Chris and Kelsey’s wedding.  Can’t wait to see pictures and hear the stories of this great adventure.

Love and prayers, Mom & Dad Dreher

Posted by: Mom & Dad Dreher on 6/17/2015 at 12:12 am


Ecuador Seminar: Grom & Team Summit Cotopaxi!

The Ecuador Seminar team, led by Casey Grom and Ben Liken reached the Cotopaxi summit this morning! Check out the photos Casey sent us this morning from their summit bid. Congratulations team!

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congrats Luke and rest of team. Look forward to hearing details. Damn I’m jealous.
Jim

Posted by: Jim hill on 2/15/2015 at 10:39 pm

Great accomplishment - all down safe and sound?

Posted by: sally on 2/15/2015 at 7:08 pm


Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Move to High Camp, Ready for Summit Bid

June 24, 2014 – 7:51 pm PT Hey it’s Billy and team calling in from High Camp here at over 17,000’ on Denali. Our crew moved up today from the 14,000' Camp. We enjoyed a nice walk and good temps up on the West Buttress, made our way up the ridge line in and out of the clouds all day. And as we were building camp at 17,000’ the clouds parted. We are enjoying blue skies and relatively calm winds. If it looks anything like this tomorrow morning we are going to try and take a crack at the summit. So, wish us luck and we will check in tomorrow, go or no go. Alright, that is all for now. RMI Guide Billy Nugent

On The Map

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Hey Bruce and Michael. Good luck on your final ascent to the summit. I hope you have great weather for the vista at the top. Wave those Duke flags once again, and take plenty of pics! JBF/Mom

Posted by: Joyce Freedman on 6/25/2014 at 8:58 pm

Hey Bruce, Michael and team,
Sending you well wishes for a successful climb to the top!  You are ready so go own it.
Kathy

Posted by: kathy on 6/25/2014 at 7:53 pm

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