After a week of skills training, glacier travel, and expedition-style living, the Expedition Skills Seminar – Emmons team stood on the summit of Mt. Rainier! Led by RMI Guide James Bealer, the team made their summit push in good conditions, capping off a challenging and rewarding week on the mountain’s remote east side.
The Emmons Glacier route offers a more secluded and wilderness-based experience compared to the more-traveled routes on Rainier. Over the course of the program, climbers practiced essential mountaineering techniques including ice axe arrest, crampon use, rope travel, crevasse rescue, and glacier navigation—all while camping on the mountain and gradually acclimating.
The team's summit push began in the early hours, moving steadily under clear skies and calm winds. They reached the summit crater with views stretching across the Cascades—proof of their perseverance, preparation, and teamwork throughout the week. After taking time to enjoy the moment and snap some summit photos, they began their descent back toward camp.
The RMI Expeditions Mount Vinson climbing season is kicking off in style. The team flew in to Punta Arenas, Chile yesterday from various and distant North American locales. Miraculously, the all-important duffel bags accompanying those team members actually made it into town with them.
After a good sleep, the team assembled this morning for introductions and instructions on how to prepare for flying to The Ice. The day was then spent with gear checks, packing and a little exploring of this classic Patagonian town nestled alongside Magellan's Strait. It was a typically crazy day, weather-wise, here at the tip of South America. We cycled through bright sun, dark clouds, intense wind and rain out of clear skies. It is a great place for bumping into fellow climbers, guides, explorers, adventurers and scientists bound for Antarctica. In the evening, the team relaxed over a fine dinner out on the town. Tomorrow we'll put the finishing touches on our packing and receive a briefing from our logistical partner -ALE- on our prospects for getting the adventure going in the next day or two.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
With a good weather report I have been pushing higher the last few days on Manaslu. Tonight I am at 6,800m camp (22,300ft), my food and fuel are spent. And apparently so is my weather. At 11pm I am woken up by a loud crack of thunder. It is now snowing moderately heavy with light winds and consistent electrical activity. It's a strange feeling up here. I was the first climber to make Camp 3 today breaking trail with some Sherpas working for another group that plans to come up the mountain later this week. And whew, 45-pound pack, knee deep sugar snow, it reminded me of the pain high altitude brings. I seem to have forgotten that aspect of 8,000m ascents.
Tomorrow I'll be descending to BC as my supplies are spent. The next time I come up I'll be summit bound. But for now I'll sit tight and see what Manaslu deals out this night to its highest established camp! Everything in mountaineering has risk involved, and it's up to the climber to judge that risk versus his skill and experience to come up with the safest decision. My camp placement is solid, sheltered by a large bergschrund and with a sub peak of Manaslu not far away. While giant flashes and the associated boom of thunder is unnerving this high up and being alone can heighten this feeling, I know my camp placement is good and my best play is to sit tight for tonight. Mountains deliver a fluid situation, so my decision making reflects the realities of the ever changing environment here.
The long term weather forecast still looks promising though, so hopefully early next week I'll back up here and pushing for the peak! Good morning and top of the world to all of you on the other side of the globe!
RMI Guide Alex Barber
Hello, this is Dave Hahn on the RMI Mt. McKinley Expedition. We are still at 7,800’, Camp 1 on the Kahiltna Glacier. We had a little bit of a long day. We got up at 2:30 this morning, hoping for good climbing conditions, but it was already snowing, wet heavy snow and that went on for hours. There was a little bit of clearing around mid day and we could see some blue sky. We got some sun for a while. We were hoping that it was going to clear off completely but it hardly ever slacked up. In fact, it snowed a little harder in the afternoon and the evening was fairly socked in with clouds. So, that is why we stayed put. Nobody seemed to move on Mount McKinley today or at least our part of it. Everybody sat where they were. In our group spirit seem to be high anyway. Everybody was enjoying getting out of the tents at meal time and still everybody is staying good and positive. Hoping the weather breaks for us tomorrow and if not tomorrow, then the next day.
We are hanging in there on the Kahiltna.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in from 7,800' on Mt. McKinley
Glad you are out of basecamp. Wishing you all good sledding with your heavy loads and that the mountain God send sunshine your way today. Blessing and love to Wayne, Dinah
RMI Guides Dominic Cifelli & Jack Delaney led their Four Day Climb May 10 - 13 to Ingraham Flats this morning. Route conditions prevented the climbers from going further, they were able to take advantage of the nice weather to do a bit of training before returning to Camp Muir. The teams have packed up and are descending to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them back in Ashford this afternoon.
At breakfast this morning there were plenty of our team singing the praises of Mweka Camp and 10,000 ft living. The sleep was sooooo much better than at 15,000 ft. Food went down easier as well, and we put away plenty of it before hitting the trail at 8 AM. Within a few minutes of walking, we entered the rain forest. The day was dry and clear but as we descended, the trail was wetter and more muddy. We had to drop 4000 ft without slipping. This was made a bit more exciting by the hundreds of porters from various teams trying to get down the slippery track with big loads at high speed. We finished the journey at 10:30am and signed our names in the National Park registry at the Mweka Gate. We then enjoyed a final lunch with our staff, after which we were treated to a spirited song and dance session with all 46 of the men who helped us. We expressed our gratitude with tips for all and then shook hands to seal the deal…and to bid farewell.
We loaded onto the bus and made the two-hour ride back to the Rivertrees hotel. It was then a comfortable afternoon of showers and gear sorting. The adventure continues tomorrow with safari, but we took the time this evening to eat and drink together in celebration of our successful climb of Kilimanjaro.
Elsie and Emmett loved your pictures of the celebration. looks like everyone is celebrating this achievement of the climb. Congratulations to the WHOLE team.
Posted by: judy reiner on 8/15/2023 at 5:11 am
Congrats Team!
Woohoo, Allison! What an awesome accomplishment! Love you! -P
Hello from the Ishinca Valley in the beautiful Cordillera Blanca! Oh boy, what a treat it is to finally be in the mountains after 4 days in and around town. It is a beautiful setting here at Ishinca Base Camp, nestled between massive snow and ice covered giants at 14,400’. The peaks around us soar up to 20,000’ and it’s a sight to behold.
It took us about 4 hours to make the move here from the trail head. We donned day packs after leaving the bulk of our weight with the donkeys and arrieros, and enjoyed a light weight walk all the way in under sunny skies. Soon after setting up camp, the afternoon rains reared their ugly heads, but luckily we were already warm and dry in our tents.
Tonight, believe it or not, we were treated to a trout dinner with baby potatoes, chicken soup, and jello. We live our best lives here in Peru, and our cook Emilio is a huge part of that.
Tomorrow, we’ll take’er easy. A little walking, a little technical training, and maybe even some napping. We’ll fill you in tomorrow. Until then, thanks for following along!
RMI Guide Robby Young and Team ‘Trucha’
PS - Spanish word of the day is Sombra (Shade)
The Four Day Climb July 13 - 16 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier on a beautiful day. RMI Guide Steve Gately and team were approaching the crater rim shortly after 7 AM. Clear skies and warm sunny temperatures were the report.
Nice work team!
Wednesday, June 26, 2019 - 11:21 PM PT
Our workable weather continued today. Crisp, cool and mostly clear conditions prevailed as we set out above 11,000 camp at 7:15 this morning. Motorcycle Hill was first up, but didn’t take us all that long, just forty five minutes of “duck foot” cramponing up a steep snow slope with a handful of well-bridged crevasses. Next up was Squirrel Hill, a little traversing and some more duck footing, which brought us up to the Polo Field at the west end of the West Buttress. By this point, we were finally out of the valleys... looking up at surrounding mountains has been fun, but now looking out and down at the world from 12 and 13,000 ft is novel and beautiful. Windy Corner wasn’t windy. We took a pleasant rest break there in the mid morning sunshine. Then we put our helmets on and climbed around the corner. A new world opened up to us as we could now see the upper West Buttress and the bulk of Denali’s South Peak up close and personal. At 13,500 ft, we’d reached our target for the day -about four hours above 11 camp. We dug a deep hole in the snow to cache food and gear out of the reach of crafty clever ravens. Enjoying the sunshine and calm conditions, we lingered for about an hour before starting our descent. The track was in fine condition, so walking/climbing down went smoothly and easily. We strolled into 11,000 near two in the afternoon, which as we’ve discovered, is a darn good time for a nap. Clouds came and went throughout the afternoon and evening, there were some light showers, but nothing of great significance from our perspective.
We’ll rest tomorrow to solidify acclimatization before making the big jump up to 14 camp.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn and Team
Following along from sea level and 95 degrees, wishing we were there on the top with you. Good Luck with continued good weather and happy hikers. N & P from Maryland.
Posted by: Sandy on 6/28/2019 at 5:42 am
Thanks David - great being connected! Is that Keir in front of the camera in today’s post walking up hill? Awesome views and blue skies!
Sunday, June 23, 2019 - 10:01 PM PT
We slept in all the way until 2:30 this morning down at the base of Ski Hill. It rained a little in the middle of the night, but by the time we got up the sky was clear and it was refreshingly cool. We’d busted down camp and were waddling uphill on our snowshoes by 4:45 AM. Our challenge for the day was to gain 1,700 feet in elevation up a series of hills. Views were tremendous as we rose up over the lower Kahiltna. The South Face of Denali with the Cassin ridge charging up the middle was on our right, Kahiltna Dome on our left. There was ice pouring off of every slope and plateau. At around 9,000 ft we could tell that snow had fallen rather than rain, but it was only on the order of a half inch. At 8:15 we rolled onto the flats at 9500 and set up a new camp. There was the usual frenzy of digging to establish tent platforms, a kitchen, latrine, and dining room. By now though we are getting practiced and skilled at the chores that stand between us and a nap. Once the sun is directly on us, it cooks everything and we take refuge in our shelters and beg for an occasional breeze. Dinner brings us together again late in the day and we go over the plan for what comes next. In this case, what comes next is a carry to 11,000 and a return to 9500.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Happy Thanksgiving everyone. Best of luck to all and please be safe.
Posted by: Dudley Macfarlane on 11/27/2014 at 8:06 am
Hope you are still having fun. I’m reading the blog and eating the bag of nuts n bolts I made for you but didn’t get sent in time. Happy trails
Posted by: Barb on 11/25/2014 at 4:38 pm
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