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June 19, 2014 - 6:43 pm PT Today on our next to last day for up hill travel we got the window we needed! The no troubles crew had no trouble with our move, reaching our high camp at 17,200ft! An early departure from our 14K camp meant cold hands and feet as we approached the fixed lines, but by the time we reached our first break the sun had crested the ridge to our south. We basked in the most welcome UV, and continued up to the base of the fixed lines without feeling the bite of the -5F temperatures. We dispatched the fixed lines without incident, and were soon taking a break in a crisp little nook on the buttress proper. High, wispy clouds took the heat right out of the sun, and the constant winds reminded us of our arctic location. The last little bit of steep fixed line at Washburn's Thumb posed no issues, and we climbed into some of the most spectacular terrain of the West Buttress. Steep walls fell away on both sides as we climbed the last stretch into camp, and soon we had reclaimed a couple of tent platforms, set up our shelter and had stoves running for water. The constant burn is a reminder of our high location and is helping to drown out the stiff northeast breeze currently moving through camp. Tomorrow looks like it'll be our window for a summit attempt, provided the winds die down and the temperatures stay reasonable. We're psyched for the camaraderie of sharing camp with Jake Beren's team, and look forward to being on the route with them tomorrow. Wish us luck!! Cheers, RMI Guide Tyler Jones and The No Troubles Team

On The Map

RMI Guide Seth Waterfall with the Four Day Summit Climb June 11 - 14 called early this morning from Camp Muir. The team was forced to abort their summit bid due to high winds today. The team will be descending from Camp Muir to Paradise this morning.

RMI Guide Seth Waterfall radioed in from the summit of Mt. Rainier at 11:15 a.m. PT with 100% of the team on the top. It is a beautiful, crisp, clear day and they enjoyed the views for a little while before starting their descent. They will return to Camp Muir to celebrate and warm up. The team will spend tonight at Camp Muir (10,060') and begin their descent tomorrow after some additional training. Congratulations to the team!

After breakfast and meeting with the National Park Service, we went shopping and gathered up all our equipment for our upcoming adventure. Tonight we will enjoy downtown Talkeetna with dinner at the steakhouse in anticipation of flying onto the glacier tomorrow.

Everyone has arrived and our trip officially began this morning. We met for breakfast and enjoyed beautiful spread of native fruits and juices, Ecuadorian breakfast dishes, breads, and of course coffee. We started our trio this morning with a tour of the 'old town' Quito - visiting the Basilica and the Presidential Palace, seeing different styles of colonial Ecuadorian architecture, and learning much of the history of Ecuador - from the pre-Incan culture of the Quitu Caras all the way through to the present-day Ecuador. Next we headed slightly north of Quito to visit La Mitad del Mundo, or the middle of the world. This is the term used to signify the site of the Equator, Ecuador's namesake. At the Equator, we toured an ethnographic museum and experienced some physical phenomena associated with being exactly on the Equator. We'll have a relaxing dinner at The Magic Bean, a popular restaurant/cafe in the Mariscal district of Quito. I will check in tomorrow after the team's first training hike up Rucu Pichincha.

Monday, July 29, 2024 

This morning breakfast lasted until lunchtime almost. Yes, we were talking about the climb to come, but with this amiable group discussions eventually turned into conversations and time flew by. 

The sun finally broke through the cloud deck, and we actually felt great wearing shorts out. This worked well for our equipment check, and I was pleasantly surprised that folks had what they needed to climb this mountain.

Following a late lunch, we met up with a couple Tanzanian friends, one of whom offered to drive some of the group into town for a little sightseeing.

All our mtn duffels have been packed and weighed, our packs loaded and we're ready to start climbing!

To the Machame Gate!!!

RMI Guide Brent Okita

We woke before 8 AM a wash with a lingering sunrise. Hughes of pinks, oranges and blues, a stark contrast against the black volcanic dust around and below us at base camp. Within just a few minutes of the groups rousing the dust was above us too, as Popo erupted with fury, more violent than we've seen since arrival in Mexico, we watched as smoke and steam billowed into the sky, becoming a dark cloud inching in our direction while we hoped it was a good omen. lt certainly was a sobering one. A reminder that we are merely guests here in every sense.

We ate a hearty breakfast of refried beans, corn chips, eggs,  potatoes, and ham thanks to our team at Ixta base camp, coffee and tea were had as well. The anticipation and excitement among the group were as thick as the ash and at 10 AM we dawned our packs and jettisoned from the Basecamp led by our local guide Allan, 300 summits of Ixta, including many by running, with Dominic and Ben in the rear. We kept an eye on the clouds of smoke, but it didn't phase us on a spectacular and reasonably effortful climb to high camp at 14,500 ft we faced only a little
scree, and instead moved through an ocean of golden grass. Its fine blades seemed to hug us as we passed. People had the energy and breath to discuss life's most important philosophical questions like Buddhism, the true nature of millennials, and Gen Xers, and how one defines a soup versus a stew and what is chili and cereal with milk, and while we are still trying to determine the conversions for the Dominic unit, the climb was indeed three hours as promised, which was met by applause at high camp. We were greeted by the cheers, laughs and smiles of our incredible Porter team, who ran ahead of us to get camp ready for our arrival which marked personal high points for the majority of us.

We rested and relaxed, had a nourishing dinner of chicken Ramen, hot chocolate, cookies, and various preparations of, and some questionable, of spam, and after a final briefing retreated to our tents and sleeping  bags early in preparation for our Alpine start to the summit of Ixta.

RMI Climber, Eric Obscherning
 

Summit! RMI Guides Mike Walter and Nick Scott just completed a successful trip in the North Cascades. The team climbed the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak and the Quien Sabe Glacier Route of Sahale Mountain. Mike reported that all climbers reached the summit of both peaks! Way to go climbers!

Friday, May 24, 2019, 3:49 PM PT Last night was warm (for 14,200' on Denali) and we woke to clear, calm skies. It looks like it would be a good day to move up high, but there is a strong weather front forecast for this weekend and we weren't quite ready to make a dash uphill to try to take advantage of this short weather window. Instead, we're taking another rest day and enjoying the sun and warm temps. We took a rope team up the fixed lines again today to get some exercise and stretch the legs, anticipating another few rest days in our near future. The team is doing well and we're in position to strike when our weather window appears. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

We connected the circuit today. Made it full circle around the Torres del Paine Massive! It was fun to see where we started, not fully knowing what was ahead and now how far we've come. The group has really hit their stride in terms of packing up in the mornings, falling in their favorite order on the trail, and even taking siestas at lunch time. It's always fun for me to see a group start wide-eyed and overwhelmed get so comfortable with trail life. This group has definitely done that. Most people on this trip, had not spent nine days out and carried their gear but now they make it look natural. The scenery did not disappoint today. We spent all morning watching lenticular clouds form and move off in the distance. We walked around Lake Nordensjold all day appreciating the color contrasts around us. Tomorrow some of the group is going to walk up to the towers, others will go halfway and enjoy the views, and others will treat themselves to a massage--very deserving. Then we will head back to town. It always feels bittersweet leaving the trail. Yes, we are looking forward to pizza and home but we will miss the peace and simplicity that Patagonia has shared with us. RMI Guide Christina Dale