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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Charging to 7,800’

Hi all, Today started on the early side and ended late, but we got so much accomplished today. We started with a last hearty breakfast of bacon, eggs, potatoes, and toast with plenty of coffee, before heading to the H2 hangar to catch the first flight off the runway. The flight into Kahiltna Base Camp is always stunning, and today was no exception. The turn over the West Ridge of Mt. Hunter brought Base Camp into view, and we banked for the runway. With all of our team on the glacier, we started preparing everything to walk. We weren't sure the surface conditions would be firm enough by midday, but we prepared nonetheless. We rigged sleds, packed duffels and packs, sorted group gear, and at last decided it was time. Some thin, high clouds had moved in, helping to keep the heat from making things too sloppy, so we decided to go for it. We descended Heartbreak Hill, and made the turn up the main Kahiltna, walking to 7,800 feet, at the base of Ski Hill. Here we spent the evening setting our first camp. Tomorrow the plan is to move with all of our gear to 9600'. There is word of some weather coming in, so we'll see how that impacts our plan, but we are psyched to have made our first moves towards the mountain. All for now, we'll be in touch tomorrow. RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

On The Map

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Ooh Rah Ski Hill!  Good luck to the whole team especially Nicky and Bob!

Posted by: Bill Rosche on 5/16/2014 at 5:10 pm


Mt. McKinley Expedition:  Mallory & Team Ready to Move to High Camp

Well, we've had so much fun here at 14 Camp that we spent another day here, although hopefully our last. The weather cleared overnight and the temperatures dropped while we were in the tents since the clouds were no longer offering a bit of insulation. It was very cold around camp this morning as we waited for the sun to hit us. With things warming up we walked across the plateau of Genet Basin where 14 Camp sits to a rock outcropping on the southeastern side known as "The Edge of the World." There the mountain side falls away more than 6,000' to the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier below. We peeked over the edge there, appreciating the first truly clear views below us that we've had yet. We stared out over the lower Kahiltna where we were traveling our first few days of the climb. Mt Hunter and Foraker rose proudly above the glacier below. It was a spectacular view. The weather remained nice so the team took a little hike above 14 Camp, stretching the legs after a few sedentary days here before returning to camp to finish preparing our gear for tomorrow's move to high camp. We are rested and ready to head up to high camp to make our summit bid. The weather appears to be improving and we are all keeping our fingers crossed - we'll let you know how it goes tomorrow. Thanks for all the blog comments and 4th of July wishes, we appreciate hearing from everyone, the team sends their best to everyone at home. RMI Guide Linden Mallory
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

The weather sounds great.  Hope you were able to move on up.  It must be so exciting!!!  We are excited for you.  Good luck as you continue your adventure.

Posted by: Lorraine and John on 7/6/2011 at 1:56 pm

Great to hear the weather is improving! Onward to the summit! Go team!

Posted by: cyndy andrus on 7/6/2011 at 8:20 am


Mt. Rainier: Hoch, Whatford and Team Stopped by High Winds

The Four Day Climb June 30 - 3 July was unable to reach the summit today due to high winds.  RMI Guides Joe Hoch and Tatum Whatford left Camp Muir with an alpine start but were turned back at Ingraham Flats due to extremely high winds.  The teams returned safely to Camp Muir where they spent the rest of the morning. They plan to start their descent from Camp Muir to Paradise around 9 am.

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Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Return to Talkeetna After 19 Days on the Mountain

Sunday, June 23, 2024 - 10:14 am PT

Hello loyal readers,

This is our final dispatch. Yesterday we woke at midnight at the base of Ski Hill. A light breeze rattled our tents but the skies were clear. It was our fastest break down of tents and packing all trip. Motivation ran high with the thought of flying off the glacier. A slight refreeze of the glacier made for smooth walking pulling our heavy sleds. Everything was quite and still. A final push up hill weaving around crevasses brought us to a sleepy basecamp...it was 4am. Check-in for our flight wasn't till 7am, so we pulled out our sleeping pads and bags and took a nap. The lower airstrip was a bit too bumpy so we walked to the upper airstrip and by 9:20 am the planes landed and we were swept off the mountain we spent 19 days climbing up and down. A 40 minute flight dumped us off in civilization. Just like that we no longer needed to travel with all our belongings on our back. No longer did we need to poop in a bucket. No longer did we need to melt snow for water. We had all those amenities at our finger tips. It's been a fantastic journey. Everyone learned something new about themselves and learned that they can endure so much. It's been a privilege to be apart of this team. 

Thank you for following along and for all the support,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team

PC: Hannah Smith

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Ecuador Volcanoes: Wittmier & Team ARrive at Antisana Base camp, Prepare for climb

Following a mildly eventful 4x4 overland, the team is settled in at Antisana basecamp. Similar to Cayambe, the glacier appears very dry. However, the weather seems to be holding, so we have some things in our favor. Spirits are high, bellies are full and we're ready for a final hard day!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

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Mt. Rainier: Emmons Seminar Team Reaches Summit

The Expedition Skill Seminar - Emmons June 8 - 13 team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning via the Emmons Glacier led by RMI Guide Bryan Mazaika. After two days of training the team drove to White River Camp Ground and started their ascent. The team will return to Camp Schurman for their final night on the mountain. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp tomorrow afternoon for the conclusion of their program. Congratulations to the Emmons team!
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Congrats Rob and team on reaching the summit!!  so proud and happy for you! 
woohoooooo!
can’t wait to see pics.

love ya, Ker

Posted by: kerry on 6/13/2019 at 8:45 am


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Ascend Fixed Lines to Cache Supplies

June 27, 2017 Things looked good at 6 AM today, so we rolled out, fired the stoves, rousted the team, breakfasted and got walking. All of this was in the cold shadow before the sun came around. Our pals on Mike Haugen's team were two hours ahead of us, already starting the fixed ropes at 15,000 as we left 14K. We made steady progress up the initial hills with perfectly packed snow to walk on. The sun caught us as we neared the ropes ourselves, making it a little easier to keep hands and faces warm. We launched up the steep headwall, getting into the rhythms of mechanical ascenders on rope, and moving crampons and ice axes on firm snow and ice. We hit the 16,200 ft top to the lines and continued up the spectacular West Buttress to 16,400 ft. Only Denali, Foraker and Mount Hunter were above the Alaskan sea of clouds today. We cached supplies and enjoyed the views from our lofty perch. Interestingly, this height wasn't a new record for any of our well traveled climbers. Our descent to 14,000 was relatively easy and fun with light packs. We hope our friends at 17,000 have a nice night and a good summit tomorrow while we rest. Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Hi Dave,
thank you for your wonderful reports about your journey with all Details so that I can imagine the amazing nature you are hiking through.
The circumstances seem to be excellent and I wish all of you, specially my dear climber Hans a successful climb up to the summit.
I keep my fingers cross for you!!!! Ute

Posted by: Ute Novak on 6/29/2017 at 5:45 am

Hey Matt, keep up the great work. What an incredible journey!

Posted by: Eric Taylor on 6/28/2017 at 6:46 pm


Mt. Rainier: Summit Climb Teams Climb Under Full Moon

The Four Day Summit Climb August 15 - 18, 2016 enjoyed an alpine start from Camp Muir under a beautiful full moon. RMI Guides Jake Beren and Ben Liken reported great climbing with warm temperatures and calm winds. After spending time on the summit both teams left the crater rim on their descent just before 7:30 am PT. We look forward to meeting the groups back at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

One year from a septuagenarian and never having participated in snow activities probably is not the most propitious period to start mountaineering, especially on Mt. Rainier. It was Theodore Roosevelt, though, who said, “... Far better is it to dare mighty things, but it is worse never to have tried to succeed.”

Being in good physical conditioning and active all my life I decided to follow Teddy’s advice. I made it to Ingraham Flats and realized appropriately that my slower pace was a deterrent to team members’ having a successful climb. No regrets from me, though. I met wonderful professional guides who were patient and indulgent with me throughout the climb.

I am proud of those individuals who summited. I also take particular pride in cultivating a friendship with young 18 year old Kyle who impressed me deeply with his poise, maturity beyond his years, self-discipline, physical ability and love of his family of whom he spoke proudly. Go through life Kyle, spreading your wings and soaring as high as you dare to achieve mighty things as Teddy most assuredly would say to you.

RMI is a professionally run company. Its professional staffs are highly skilled mountaineers who place a premium on customer safety. While safety is their number one priority the professional guides establish prudent parameters for customers to maximize available opportunities to apply their skills for a truly memorable and amazing experience.

With Kindest of Regards,
Jerry W Doyle

Posted by: Jerry W Doyle on 8/20/2016 at 2:58 pm


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Making Progress on Their Descent

June 22, 2014 - 2:46 am PT What a great day in the mountains yesterday! I'd reckon we had one of the nicest summit opportunities of the season and it was a real treat to be in position to make the most of it. We topped out on Denali with spectacular views in all directions and made it back to camp with as close to a solstice as you can get. The sun was still in the sky for an amazing sunset as we pulled into camp after a job well and safely done. Nice work everyone! This morning weather rolled in from many directions and we chose to stall a bit before heading down the Buttress. The blowing snow let up a little in the afternoon and we made the most if it, getting down to 14K Camp and having dinner before some shut eye. Tomorrow we will keep the momentum rolling downhill if the weather allows and get just a little closer to coming home. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

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Chris, Can’t wait to hear about your journey. Safe travel to you and the team.  Love mom and dad

Posted by: Elizabeth Koerner on 6/22/2014 at 7:04 pm

We are so happy for you all. So great!  Can’t wait to hear the stories. Be safe going down and we hope the weather holds out for you.

Posted by: Kathie on 6/22/2014 at 5:56 pm


Mt. McKinley Expedition: Mallory & Team Ready to Fly

The sky never quite darkened outside the drawn shades of the hotel rooms up here in Talkeetna last night and before long the sun was rising in the sky again. We met up at the Roadhouse Cafe this morning where Matt, the final member of our team and a local Alaskan resident, joined us. Over heaping portions of scrambled eggs, bacon, thick slices of toast, and steaming cups of coffee, we toasted the merging of the team and the beginning of the adventures. After spending some time talking through the details of the climb ahead we went over to the National Park Service offices here and checked in with the climbing rangers, collecting our climbing permits and discussing the most recent route conditions with the climbing rangers. With permits in hand we walked back through the streets of Talkeetna, just starting to bustle with the midday influx of tourist arriving from the Anchorage area, and across the railroad tracks to the air strip where we spent the rest of the day organizing our gear for the climb. We unpacked, sorted, checked, rechecked, and repacked our personal clothing and climbing equipment, inspected our climbing ropes, fired up and tested our stoves, counted our 22 days worth of food, set up and examined our 4 tents, separated the shovels, wands, climbing pickets, and snow saws we will need, and then rechecked everything again - making doubly sure that we are feeling prepared with our equipment. Finally, by later afternoon, a pile of duffels, backpacks, snowshoes, tents, poles, and climbing equipment began to accumulate in the open entrance of the hangar of K2 Aviation. At long last the pile stopped growing and the final last minute items were added. Just before dinner we weighed out all of the bags, carefully checking the weights of each item in order to allow the pilots of the small prop planes we fly in tomorrow so that they can adequately distribute the weight of our loads. With a full day of packing and preparing for the climb, we retired to the local and legendary eatery and watering hole of the West Rib, indulging in Caribou burgers and Halibut tacos before calling it a day. We are hoping that the clearing skies we see in the afternoon persist into tomorrow allowing us to make the 30 minute flight from Talkeetna into the Alaska Range to Denali Base Camp. There is always the chance that weather either here in Talkeetna or up on the mountain will not cooperate and not allow us to make the flight but spirits are optimistic and we are keeping our fingers crossed the weather shakes out in our favor. RMI Guide Linden Mallory
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Wonderful to read your blog Linden. Wishing you, Frank and the whole team a safe climb and an experience beyond all your expectations!

Posted by: Connie S. on 6/24/2011 at 12:12 pm

Happy Birthday…you know who you are….  :-)

Posted by: Laurie C. on 6/24/2011 at 6:45 am

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