Today we got a casual start in Penitentes, there is a lull in the season where no other groups started the trek to base camp. Our Team enjoyed overcast skies and a generous breeze on our hike to Las Lenas. We admired the bountiful shades of red, orange and brown that make up the rocky terrain. Five hours of hiking brought us to Camp and we enjoyed the warmth and solitude this camp provides. Our mule drivers got the coals started for the famous Las Lenas asado and before long we were eating grilled meats and vegetables, telling stories from past trips and previous lives. It’s always a surprise how ten miles of walking over softball-sized rocks can be forgotten with good company, delicious food and a little red wine. This camp is a spectacular place to sleep under the stars. The Milky Way runs straight down the valley and the Southern Cross is where you would expect it to be. No ambient light for hundreds of miles. When you wake in the middle of the night and look up, you get the sense you're an insignificant animal on a blue marble that’s being shot across the galaxy. Context and perspective is readily challenged in this valley. Tomorrow we continue our trek to Casa de Piedra, the Team is doing great and sends their love back home. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King
100% on top!!!
Today we had a wonderful albeit long day climbing to the summit of Kilimanjaro. The team woke at 11pm as we planned to thankfully clear skies after a cloudy evening that had us wondering the lay ahead.
We had a quick breakfast of porridge, tea and coffee before hitting the trail at 12am.
We climbed in hour increments with 10-15 breaks in between, which we've been doing every day thus far. The weather was pretty nice with just a little wind that kept us bundled up for most of the day. Thankfully the wind died just as we reached the crater rim know as Stella Point. It was one of the busiest days I’ve seen on Kili with more than 200 climbers, but the team timed everything just right and took great care of themselves.
The climb took about 7 hours to reach the top, and thankfully the sun had risen shortly before to help warm us and boost morale after climbing through the night. Once there, we hugged each other, enjoyed the view and took plenty of pictures of the sign that adorns the “Roof of Africa”.
It was a true test of endurance for most of the crew, and I'm really proud of everyone. We safely descended back to High Camp, had a quick lunch, repacked and continued further down the mountain to our final camp, where we are about to have dinner and then head to bed for some well deserved sleep.
Everyone is really looking forward to hot showers tomorrow to say the least.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and the Kili summit crew
With a good weather report I have been pushing higher the last few days on Manaslu. Tonight I am at 6,800m camp (22,300ft), my food and fuel are spent. And apparently so is my weather. At 11pm I am woken up by a loud crack of thunder. It is now snowing moderately heavy with light winds and consistent electrical activity. It's a strange feeling up here. I was the first climber to make Camp 3 today breaking trail with some Sherpas working for another group that plans to come up the mountain later this week. And whew, 45-pound pack, knee deep sugar snow, it reminded me of the pain high altitude brings. I seem to have forgotten that aspect of 8,000m ascents.
Tomorrow I'll be descending to BC as my supplies are spent. The next time I come up I'll be summit bound. But for now I'll sit tight and see what Manaslu deals out this night to its highest established camp! Everything in mountaineering has risk involved, and it's up to the climber to judge that risk versus his skill and experience to come up with the safest decision. My camp placement is solid, sheltered by a large bergschrund and with a sub peak of Manaslu not far away. While giant flashes and the associated boom of thunder is unnerving this high up and being alone can heighten this feeling, I know my camp placement is good and my best play is to sit tight for tonight. Mountains deliver a fluid situation, so my decision making reflects the realities of the ever changing environment here.
The long term weather forecast still looks promising though, so hopefully early next week I'll back up here and pushing for the peak! Good morning and top of the world to all of you on the other side of the globe!
RMI Guide Alex Barber
Good afternoon, this is the climbing team in Peru. Elias calling here. We have made it to high camp on Tocllaraju and we are perched at 5,100m right on the edge of the glacier. A sense of accomplishment that everybody has right now. It's indescribable as we are in one of the most beautiful places that we have seen so far on this trip. We are surrounded by a huge cirque of 5,000 and 6,000-meter peaks. Tonight we are going to get ready to climb Tocllaraju, the last and most challenging objective of our seminar. Everybody is doing really well and we are having right now really good weather. Everything is on schedule and we will keep you posted tomorrow hopefully from the summit, sometime in the early morning. Right now it's 4 o'clock in the afternoon local time in Peru. We are brewing some water and cooking some dinner. That's pretty much it for now. We will hope to, like I said, call tomorrow from the summit and wrap up this amazing expedition. That's all for now. Good evening.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
Elias de Andres Martos calling from Tocllaraju's High Camp.
We had a slower start today to allow the many porters get a jump start on the route and ever narrowing trail.
Right out of camp we were faced with the only significant technical obstacle for this climb. This hurdle is the great Barranco Wall, which rises about 1,000' and looks as intimidating as it sounds. Thankfully there is a nice narrow trail that weaves its way up and through the wall and all the way to the top. Most of it feels more like steep hiking, but there are a few places that require the use of our hands to help us climb up.
The team did a great job of moving steady and allowing a few porters through with their loads precariously balanced on their heads. Which was astonishing to see, especially at this altitude.
After reaching the top we took a nice break and enjoyed the spectacular view of the upper mountain, since there was scarcely a cloud in the sky. The team continued our hike for a few more hours up and down through a few valleys before reaching camp.
All in all, it took only about four hours for us to reach our next camp called Karanga, named for the big and beautiful valley which it overlooks.
Spirits are high and there have been few complaints from this tough crew, even though it’s been more dry and dusty than we’d like!
Monday, July 2, 2018 - 10:02 am PT
RMI Super Crew 6 is safe and sound back in Talkeetna!
I expected to be tired waking up early to head to Basecamp from our 11k Camp. I realized when you wake up at 11 pm it is either too early or too late to wake up tired! The tired came later.
We had a beautiful night/morning finishing the 10 miles of glacier that delivered us to the airstrip. Denali gave us one more round of mini snow and wind before it finally gave us a moonrise and sunrise combo.
We arrived at the airstrip just in time for the planes to start flying. We got all of our gear de-rigged and ready to throw on the plane when we were informed that the plans for us had just been changed and the pilots would be picking us up at the upper airstrip a 1/4 mile up glacier. Since the planes were already in the air, we loaded sleds and packs up Beverly Hillbilly style and made the trip in record time just as the planes arrived to bring us back to civilization.
I really appreciate all of the hard work and great attitudes that the Super Crew brought to our adventure. Also, thank you for all of your blog comments and support. It made a huge difference knowing all of you had our backs!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Super Crew 6
It’s the Love of adventure that make a person put themselves through such a grilling trial.. Testing yourselves to how much your body and mind can endure… You All have “shined” through it all and I’m so happy for the guides and happy for the determination of all the participants ... They will all be looking for New Mountains to climb now.. You are Truly a Super Team ! ! !
Congratulations Lindsay and Matt….......I Love you and Welcome back to Terra Firma…
Grams
Posted by: Barbara Jones on 7/2/2018 at 8:51 pm
Thank you Mike and Hannah for your enthusiasm. I’m sure your strength inspired Gloria. I think you all made a great team, to welcome every challenge, or at least accept it. I just want to jump up and down to applaud you. Love,
The RMI Expeditions Mount Vinson climbing season is kicking off in style. The team flew in to Punta Arenas, Chile yesterday from various and distant North American locales. Miraculously, the all-important duffel bags accompanying those team members actually made it into town with them.
After a good sleep, the team assembled this morning for introductions and instructions on how to prepare for flying to The Ice. The day was then spent with gear checks, packing and a little exploring of this classic Patagonian town nestled alongside Magellan's Strait. It was a typically crazy day, weather-wise, here at the tip of South America. We cycled through bright sun, dark clouds, intense wind and rain out of clear skies. It is a great place for bumping into fellow climbers, guides, explorers, adventurers and scientists bound for Antarctica. In the evening, the team relaxed over a fine dinner out on the town. Tomorrow we'll put the finishing touches on our packing and receive a briefing from our logistical partner -ALE- on our prospects for getting the adventure going in the next day or two.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Hello everyone, this is Elias, Robby and the team in the Ishinca Valley. We are getting ready to go to bed as we are going to climb Ishinca tonight. It is 7:30 in the evening here. Today we spent the day doing some training at the glacier of the Ishinca Peak. We cached some gear up there and then tomorrow we should be having another awesome climbing day on this astonishing peak called Ishinca. Hopefully, we will get a signal from the summit and we will call from there in about half a day or so. Hope all is well back home and we'll keep you posted.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Ishinca Basecamp.
Hey Victor…..Arnie says be safe and use protective eye wear and have your o2 ready. Are they serving sautéed veal cheeks at your camps?
Gary, Linda and Arnie
Posted by: Gary Rostron on 7/8/2014 at 4:34 pm
Hey Kim!!! It’s just amazing what beauty you & the team get to view from your adventures climbing up there!!! Awesome strength, courage & a tremendous spirit!! Us sea level-lovers have to make-do with pictures (which, of course, we can’t wait to see). Summit on! Have fun! Hugs & cheers, Trish
June 24, 2014 – 7:51 pm PT
Hey it’s Billy and team calling in from High Camp here at over 17,000’ on Denali. Our crew moved up today from the 14,000' Camp. We enjoyed a nice walk and good temps up on the West Buttress, made our way up the ridge line in and out of the clouds all day.
And as we were building camp at 17,000’ the clouds parted. We are enjoying blue skies and relatively calm winds. If it looks anything like this tomorrow morning we are going to try and take a crack at the summit.
So, wish us luck and we will check in tomorrow, go or no go.
Alright, that is all for now.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Hey Bruce and Michael. Good luck on your final ascent to the summit. I hope you have great weather for the vista at the top. Wave those Duke flags once again, and take plenty of pics! JBF/Mom
Posted by: Joyce Freedman on 6/25/2014 at 8:58 pm
Hey Bruce, Michael and team,
Sending you well wishes for a successful climb to the top! You are ready so go own it.
Kathy
June 13, 2014 - 9:40 pm PT
Welcome! To the first of many blog installments for the June 10, 2014, RMI expedition to Denali. Our team first met a couple days ago in Anchorage and enjoyed a cramped van ride up to Talkeetna. There, we spent the following day packing and prepping for our bush flight in the midst of a shaky weather forecast. We went to bed on Wednesday night locked and loaded with our fingers crossed for blue skies in the a.m... As luck would have it our good friends at K2 Aviation were able to drop us off at Kahiltna Basecamp in a pair of Otter ski planes first thing in the morning! After building and moving in to our camp we spent the rest of the day making our final preparations for the trip.
Today was the first real day of the expedition. We woke early and broke camp and packed up for our single-carry to Camp 1 at 7,800'. A single-carry means we are loaded down with all of the equipment, food, and fuel to sustain our expedition for 22 days... It rounds out to about 100lbs of gear per climber split between a sled and backpack. We had a couple of occasional breaks of clear skies but spent most of the day sheltered from the blazing sun by a thin layer of clouds and light snow flurries. While it might sound inclement, it actually kept temperatures from getting too warm and made for nice walking. We are all settled in at 7,800' for the night and are hoping to continue up tomorrow with another single-carry to 9,600' and Camp 2.
We'll check in again and let ya'll know how it went...
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Happy Father’s Day Michael and to any other fathers with you! Your life lessons have been and continue to be incredible. Enjoy the journey! Love you and stay safe!!
Posted by: Mary Lou Quandt on 6/15/2014 at 7:15 am
Mike,
cycling class isn’t as fun without you! We are thinking of you daily!
Well wishes-Paige and Warren
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Any cookie benches up there?
Posted by: Bschmidt on 9/11/2018 at 8:52 am
Congratulations to all
Posted by: Megan Martin on 9/9/2018 at 6:48 pm
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