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Posted by: Solveig Waterfall, Seth Waterfall
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 6,400'
Hi this is Seth. Solveig Waterfall and I just wrapped up the first RMI ski trip of the Spring season here on Rainier. We had a great five-day trip with a really fun group. We based out of the Paradise area for our days on the mountain and were treated to some of the best ski conditions of the season. this was our 'Intro to Ski Touring' course and as the name implies we spent the majority of the time focusing on the necessary skills to plan and execute several days of backcountry skiing.
We had a clear day to establish our camp followed by two days of precipitation with steadily cooling temperatures. This resulted in fantastic powder-skiing conditions with really good snow stability. The final day was cool but the skies were mostly clear and we were able to get break our camp and some more good skiing. The team was great, the laughs and smiles were non-stop and the days flew by.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
Well here we are, settled into our camp at 19,600'. We arrived earlier today and spent the afternoon getting our tents anchored, water going, hots made and dinner into our bellies. Ben cranked out a huge pot of ramen and mashed potatoes, which should provide ample fuel for tomorrow's push towards the summit.
The team is psyched and ready for the final leg of this incredible journey. We'll be up early and out for our summit attempt well before the sun comes up, so it's off to bed early. The patter of light snow on our tent walls is going to be tonight's lullaby, and hopefully the winds remain light. Keep sending the good wishes and stay tuned for tomorrow's update!
RMI Guide Garrett Stevens
On The Map
Hi this is Seth at Everest Basecamp. The entire group is down at Basecamp now after a successful final rotation on the upper mountain. Everyone is happy and healthy as we begin our resting phase. We are fortunate that everyone has made it through the acclimatization rounds without suffering any illness. The cycles we go through up high are meant to stress our bodies so that we adapt to the extreme altitude, but the trick is not to stress yourself too much and become ill.
We've made it through the prep and our next step is to recover from this latest effort and then to begin the summit push. We must be patient and wait for the weather to shape up. I find that to be one of the hardest parts, mentally, of climbing here. There's always the temptation to push for the summit when your body is ready, but maybe too soon for the weather. Everest's height, 29,038 ft, is such that it sticks up into the Jet Stream. It's actually just a few thousand feet shy of the cruising altitude of a trans-continental airliner. The winds at that altitude can exceed a steady 160 mph when the Jet is over the mountain. We'll be waiting in Basecamp until we get a favorable forecast that tells us that the winds will be managable enough for a summit attempt.
When will that be? Well, that's the big question. As for now the winds are forecasted to be high for the next several days. But that's ok. We have a great setup here. There is plenty of food and plenty of things to do to keep us occupied so we don't waste precious energy stressing about weather forecasts. Our current diversion of choice is hosting inter-expedition card games. 'Texas Hold-em' is our game of choice and of course the RMI crew tends to dominate the winnings. The games are fun but most of us are already chomping at the bit to get back to the climb. We'll be sure to be rested, healthy and mentally charged up when the opportunity to go back up the mountain arrives. Until then we'll be doing our best to lighten the loads of the other climbers by taking some of their money.
All is well here on Mount Everest.
Most of the climbers are up at Camp 2, tomorrow the last wave will make a push up to Camp Three and back to Camp Two for acclimatization if weather and route conditions allow. If all goes well all teams will be safely back to BC by Monday.
Thanks to Jim Whittaker and his Sherpa climbing partner Nawang Gombu for paving the American way to the summit on this day 47 years ago.
Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
Saturday, June 9, 2018 - 8:43 PM PT
A message written by the team:
"Today we took a rest on the edge. At the aptly named Edge of the World outside of 14 camp we stopped for some great photos. Photos so grand, you’ll never see them. The snow fell gently in the afternoon air. We pondered our favorite planets. Security felt a little lax around camp and with murmurs of winter coming we built some walls around camp. Afterwards, during dinner, we concluded that the sun is the collective favorite planet. Have to be honest, the mountain food is just food. But the guides cooking skills are super awesome. Looking forward to capping off the night with some gentle snoring to keep the local wildlife at bay. Tomorrow should probably be a super epic day."
RMI Guide Tyler Jones & Team
On The Map
Jim & Paul and all you Ice Chompers,
Just want you to know that the 2018 Stanley Cup is off bounds! it’s in the hands of first time
winners - The Washington -Caps!! But don’t despair—the Denali Cup for 2018 - is still available!!
So chomp on you mountain rangers! Sending love, prayers, and long distance hugs -
Your momma
Posted by: Myra Welsh on 6/10/2018 at 7:44 pm
Matt Hill, the Sunnyvale gang is behind you all way. Bubbles even named one of his new kitties “Denali”.
Posted by: Paul Downs on 6/10/2018 at 3:20 pm
Posted by: Casey Grom, Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Expeditions Skills Seminar - Muir has spent the week training at Camp Muir and this morning were able to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier. Due to high winds throughout the night, they delayed their departure from Camp Muir. The conditions were firm and the conditions cold but with clear skies and decreasing winds the team was able to spend some time on the summit. All of the team members participating in this week's program reached the summit along with RMI Guides Casey Grom, Elias de Andres Martos, Andy Hildebrand, Andrew Kiefer and Mike King. The team will return to Camp Muir to spend their final night on the mountain. Tomorrow they may do a bit of training before starting their descent to Paradise.
Congratulations to the Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir team members!
Congrats to the team! Especially for my husband , Mark!
Very excited for you all!
Posted by: Mary Ann Miller on 9/11/2014 at 3:19 pm
Hello, this is Adam Knoff here at 7,800’ on the Kahiltna Glacier with the West Rib Team. We have moved up successfully to this camp and we are enjoying perfect weather. We are going to take advantage of the weather and do a reconnaissance up the Northeast Fork of the Kahilta trying to establish a route up towards the West Rib. We will then be moving back to camp here and have plans to carry to 9,500' feet tomorrow and hopefully to 11,000' the following day.
Everyone is well and in good spirits. We saw Mike Walter and team coming down today and they are most thrilled to be heading out. We will update you tomorrow on the progress of a reconnaissance.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
Thanks for the dispatch, Adam. Great to hear you’re having nice weather. Good luck to Peter and team from his friends in San Francisco!
Posted by: Esther Kim on 5/28/2011 at 7:21 pm
Good to hear the weather is good. Best of luck to Courtney and the team from the “P Street Action Committee!”
Posted by: Jen Levy on 5/28/2011 at 6:57 am
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Tomorrow begins the 21st chapter of my personal McKinley saga. It’s late and I’m kind of all packed up. Funny how after all these years of leading these expeditions the excitement just builds as I approach the date when we begin the trip. That day is tomorrow, when the other guides, Leon and Maile, and I fly up to Anchorage to meet the group and begin the expedition.
Both Leon and Maile are veteran McKinley guides. Leon guided with me two years ago, and Maile cut her teeth last year on her first trip. I’m pretty lucky to have these two guides working with me. Not only do they both have prior Denali experience, but they are great to work with. And it goes without saying, one of the key things to a successful, fun expedition is how folks get along on a trip. For three weeks we will be working hard, struggling at times, dealing with a sometimes uncomfortable and unforgiving environment. So the people we are literally tied to, day in and day out, really make or break a trip.
I know a fair number of the climbers on our trip, though not everyone. But that is also part of the fun of these expeditions: getting to know a group of people on a pretty intense level. I’m looking forward to it!
Reflecting on the relationships forged on these climbing adventures I just need to look back a few hours ago when I received an email from a team mate from my 1991 Everest trip. We noted that it was our 20th anniversary this week of our summit of that mountain. A different time in mountaineering history, to be sure, but what’s certainly not lost is that sense of companionship, team work and whatever else happens within a group of climbers when they set off to climb a big mountain like Everest… or Denali.
Perhaps even more meaningful was another email I got today from a climber with me last year who just ‘called out’ to wish me all the best for my upcoming climb. His outreach reminded me again of just how special these trips are. I guess I’m feeling pretty darned fortunate to be doing what I’m doing.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Posted by:
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
The team is enjoying the world famous indigenous market at Otavalo this morning. The huge Saturday market is a shopper's paradise! While Otavalo is known for its beautiful goods woven of sheep and alpaca wool, there is a plethora of other items available here, from paintings to jewelry to 'panama' hats.
After enjoying the market this morning, we will head up to the climbing hut on Cayambe. We will have a light dinner and hit the sack early so that we are ready for an alpine start for our summit attempt tomorrow. I will keep you posted with our progress.
Today the entire team took another rest day. Although the skies were clear and sunny, the winds were blowing quite high, rattling our tents pretty hard all day. We spent our day watching movies, playing cards and catching up on life outside of Everest Basecamp.
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solveig and seth are great leaders; awesome time
great snow and memories
Posted by: jmac on 4/12/2015 at 4:59 am
Seth & Solveig,
Great story about your backcountry course. Good luck with more of those and good on you both.
Cheers, Joe & Dianne
Posted by: joe Griffith on 4/4/2015 at 11:45 am
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