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Monday, June 10, 2019 - 9:38 PM PT
On the thirteenth day, Team ‘No Leftovers’ rested. And boy did we enjoy it. It was another beautiful day here at 14,000' Camp. We’ve been in a cycle of morning sun and afternoon clouds for the last few days, so we planned accordingly. We woke in the shade for some early morning coffee, and then made our way to the Edge of the World for some unbelievable morning views of the Alaska Range. This perch is located at the edge of Genet Basin and looks down approximately 6,000’ below onto the Kahiltna Glacier. We followed that up with a big brunch of eggs and hash brown burritos that stretched us until 1pm. Naps and packing took the rest of our day before another delicious veggie curry dinner. Needless to say, no leftovers were had. This team is now batting 1.000 when it comes to finishing every bit of every meal. A truly impressive feat on any expedition. We’re tucked in now, turning all that food into fuel, ready for a move to 17,200’, if the mother mountain Denali allows, of course. We’ll let you know. Wish us luck and good weather vibes!
RMI Guides Robby, Nick, Joe and Team ‘No Leftovers’
On The Map
Wednesday, January 24, 2018
Todos han cumbreado (everybody summited)! The group was a bit apprehensive last night as the clouds were dancing in and around camp, but we woke up at 1am to mostly clear skies and made our bid for the top of
Ixtaccihuatl in 6mph, -4C weather - doesn’t get much better than that. The sun rose right as we began our final ascent stretch, shedding dramatic light on the Martian like landscape with Popocateptl puffing volcanic smoke in the background. We all celebrated on top under the sun and above a thick undercast. Upon return to high camp we swiftly packed up and made our way back down in a graupel storm before reaching our van, celebrating (again) over beers and sandwiches, and making the drive to our hot showers and warm food in Puebla.
Tired and happy,
RMI Guides Jessie, Walter & the team
On The Map
Good morning from little Swiss,
We came to an end, but not without reward...Yesterday we had, after a patient wait for blue skies, the most amazing of the climbing days we could hope for.
the Middle Troll, reigning over the Pika, towered for hours above us, as its splitter granite cracks discerned a feasible access to its airy summit. The team climbed seamlessly, and all the training of the last week payed for an incredibly well oiled "uphilling" engine. We climbed into the evening, as the morning and early afternoon were still foggy; climbing into the evening light of Alaska's summer was very special.
We're now cooking our breakfast and soon we'll fly back to civilization... wait to see our pictures!
RMI Guide Elias deAndres Martos & Team
Almost one in the morning now. It has been a long, but very fine day. We took off from Punta Arenas just after ten AM. The flight -in airline seats within the cargo hold of the IL76- was smooth as anything. It took about 4.5 hours to get down to
Union Glacier. By then we were wearing plenty of clothing in anticipation of setting foot on Antarctica. Sure enough, it was cold and windy at the ice runway, although it was also brilliant, sunny and beautiful. We caught a ride over to camp in a modified big wheel van. As is normal, there wasn't much wind blowing at all in Union Camp and so it was quite pleasant to sit outside talking. We peeled off our down coats and mingled with the camp staff and the other climbers and adventurers in camp. It took a bit of time for all of the cargo to come off the big plane and be transported to camp, but not long after being reunited with our gear, we were loading it into a ski equipped Twin Otter for the ride out to Vinson Base. The team took plenty of pictures of the ride through the Ellsworth Mountains. Our second perfect landing of the day put us exactly where we wanted to be... At 7000 ft on the Branscomb Glacier, at the foot of Mount Vinson. There were no clouds to hide the spectacular peaks and glaciers surrounding us. We had plenty to do in getting a camp established and gear and food sorted, but of course the sun just kept beaming down after midnight, so we kept at it until all were fed and in bed. It isn't going to get dark tonight, but soon the sun will duck behind the mountain and it will get cold. So we'll sign off for now and check in again tomorrow... today.... whatever.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide
Leon Davis reached the top of
Disappointment Cleaver on Mt. Rainier before route conditions forced the team to descend. Leon and the team descended back to Camp Muir to rest and pack up. At 8:45 am the team left Camp Muir to begin their descent to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them in Ashford this afternoon.
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir, led by
Casey Grom and
Elias de Andres Martos, reached the summit of
Mount Rainier! The guides reported overnight snow of a couple of inches in places but mostly a dusting. The precipitation did stop for their summit bid. They also reported no winds and a cloud deck of 12,000 feet. After spending some time on the top, the teams will begin their descent back to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to the team!
Wulp... Here we are settled in to camp up here at
Aconcagua Camp 2 at over 18,000ft enjoying beautifully clear skies and a nice gentle breeze.
Haas and
Katrina are outside whipping up a tasty meal and hanging out with the team enjoying the afternoon. Not much else to report... The team is in great spirits and hoping for this great weather to hold!
Til tomorrow,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
On The Map
December 11, 2014 - 6:57 pm PT
The team here in Ecuador got their first taste of altitude today, on the hills that surround Quito. This morning we rode the teleferico to 13,000 feet and began our trek up
Pichincha on the rutted trails that wind up to its rocky 15,000 ft summit. It was a day to pressure our bodies into absorbing the thin atmosphere and experience the weather patterns that commonly occur here. So the last half hour of our descent was a mixture of rain and hail and by 2:30 the team was drying off in the hotel and relaxing before dinner. This will be our last evening in Quito and our trip commences north towards Cayambe.
RMI Guides Leon Davis & Casey Grom and Team
On The Map
Today we had an early morning as we finished packing all our gear in preparation for heading to the upper mountain. We rode two trams up to the Mir station and then we jumped on the final chairlift to
Garabashi Hut at 12,000 feet.
We used to stay at the Barrels but we were in for a real treat. We are staying in a brand new facility exclusive to our in-country outfitter. They have brand new huts which really resemble shipping containers with windows. The hickory flooring and coat racks are a nice touch.
Our head chef is Albina and let me tell you, I almost forgot how incredible her home-cooked food is. Fresh cucumber and tomato salad is my favorite!
The team just returned from a good acclimatization hike that took us to 13,200 feet. A blanket has covered the upper mountain giving us zero views other than a tipsy feeling of being surrounded in a constant shield of white. It didn't stop us from having fun and doing our bodies some good.
We are back in our huts relaxing and getting settled in. Stay tuned for some more adventure!
RMI Guide JJ Justman
On The Map
It is hard to sit under
Alpamayo's southwest face and not stare for an extended period of time. Our team, along with three other groups moved up to the Col Camp (17,600') today and find ourselves trying to prepare for the ascent tomorrow, but constantly distracted by the beauty of the route. From our tents the route rises nearly 2,000 feet in a vertical line of frozen snow and ice. An alpinist's dream.
Getting to camp today was a job in itself. We climbed up a glacier for 90 minutes to the base of a headwall. It took three pitches of ice to reach the saddle where camp lies. The team performed well, but climbing 60-degree ice at 17,000 feet with 45-pound packs had everyone breathing hard.
Stay tuned for tomorrow. We hope to make an attempt and will call via satellite phone to update everyone with the results.
RMI Guide Eric Frank and the Alpamayo team
Sounds like a gourmet food trip
So far so good
Hope this continues
Prayers and good wishes for all
Steve we will make eggplant parmigiana when u get home
On our way to Graces bday party
Can’t wait until you get home
Posted by: John Zabinski on 6/12/2019 at 2:55 pm
Woohoo! Good luck! God speed! Good vibes! And all that jazz! Safe travels to 17!
Posted by: Annie Kawasaki on 6/11/2019 at 10:48 pm
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