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Today was a fantastic day for Team Mexico! We left our cabins at La Malinche and continued on our adventure. After a hearty buffet breakfast and a few team members saying "I can't believe I ate 3 breakfasts!" we hit the road and headed to our first objective, Ixta. We made a quick pit stop to buy a few last items and we also acquired our park entrance permits. We are now settling in the Altzomoni Hut at 12,000'. The team went for another hike to get the blood flowing and everyone is feeling great. We are now packing and sorting gear for our move to high camp tomorrow. Stay tuned, the team is getting pumped as we get closer to making our summit attempt! RMI Guides JJ Justman and Mike King

On The Map

Yesterday I flew into Annapurna Base Camp. As the pilot and I made our way through the deep valleys from Tatopani, Annapurna I appeared, rising some 12,800ft above. Yikes! A beautiful jumble of rock and ice. I leaned over to the pilot and nervously asked him if he could return me to Kathmandu. He just laughed, assuming sarcasm... After arriving in base camp and setting up my camp, I went for a slow jog in the evening toward the glacier (see picture) and got my first glimpse of the way to Camp 1. The route looks to follow an ascending traverse across a cliff face of rock and snow which has the advantage of bypassing a 2,500’ glacial ice fall. It does seem like the slightly better of two bad options - although the cliff still holds many things above you that could become hazards. Tomorrow I’ll attend a Puja (a ceremony in which meditational prayers are offered to the Buddhas and holy beings to request their blessings or help), after which I’ll start pushing uphill. Currently it’s snowing here in base camp with consistent thunder. The weather forecast is predicting unstable conditions until April 4th. However, there seems to be an afternoon trend to the wet weather, which if it holds shouldn’t affect my acclimatization climbs to C1/C2. Well, that’s all I’ve got for now! RMI Guide Alex Barber

Hola amigos y familia, Today team Ecuador finally got some needed exercise. Yes I will admit, curling cervesas and walking around Quito does count as calorie burning activities but after a long travel day and substantial city tour, we were ready to go up! And up we went. After breakfast today we met one of our local guides here at the hotel, his name is Henry. Henry owns a beautiful old Toyota Land Cruiser which unfortunately fits only four team members. This space deficiency created a need for two taxis to shuttle the rest of us to the starting point of the day's hike. I had luck working on my side it seems when myself and three others loaded into one yellow cab and Nick and his team piled into the second. Why were we lucky you might ask, because we made it to point B from point A without an accident. Nick's cabby thought "all street signs, traffic lights and street lines were merely suggestions". Three close calls and a fender bender with another cab later, we were all together. I always say let the adventures start as soon as possible. From our gathering point, the next mode of transport was a cable car or gondola starting at 10,000 feet which swooshed us without even breaking a sweat to 13,000 feet. Luckily no accidents on this stretch. Those might be less forgiving. From the top of the gondola, the 15,400 foot summit of Pinchincha Rucu, which was the day's objective, looked sunny and inviting. A rare case in my experience. With a bit of heavy breathing and 60 minutes walk time, 6 of our team's 10 climbers had reached a new personal altitude record. With a bit more breathing, two more hours walk time and all of our warm cloths on, the entire team reached the summit. It was a glorious start to what should be one grande adventure. Barring the vans and jeeps keep between the lines. We are now preparing for a well deserved dinner and otra cervesa. Follow along tomorrow to hear about mountain number two. Adios de Quito, RMI Guides Adam Knoff, Nick Hunt and Team

June 7, 2014 - 7:33 pm PT The team got busy today by hauling a load of food and personal gear up to the next camp at 14,000'. Everyone performed well and we were able to cover the distance in just over four hours- a great pace. All along the trail, we passed groups who were either hauling gear up to cache or moving camp from 11,000' to 14,000'. It was fun to say "hi" and encourage groups we have met along the way. The small tent city that has surrounded us for the last few days will reassemble up higher as groups ready for a summit bid. Sitting at 14,000' this afternoon, the team got our first good look at the route. We talked through the flow of the climb and got excited. Hopefully, a few more short days will bring us the time to see if all of our preparations are sufficient to get to the top. Thanks for following our journey. RMI Guides Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens and the UWR team

On The Map

We're at high camp, poised and ready! Last night we had quite the snowfall, almost 8", which is quite a lot for Aconcagua. We spent the morning digging out and packing up for our move up. The large majority of the climbers who were queued up at Camp 2 made the move up to Camp Cólera with us today so trail breaking wasn't so bad. Our team stayed together and moved smoothly through the terrain despite very hot temperatures. Blue skies and direct sun at almost 20,000' coupled with the reflective blanket of new snow made for some serious UV exposure not to mention the high temperatures. It felt like being in the Mega-Tan 9000 industrial strength, Baywatch endorsed tanning bed all day. Then as we arrived at Camp Cólera the clouds rolled in and it started to snow again. If the last seven days are any indication, the snow should stop and the clouds should lift sometime overnight. We have our fingers crossed for a clear and comfortable summit attempt tomorrow. We'll check in tomorrow after the hurly burly's done! RMI Guide Billy Nugent

On The Map

We woke up to no winds and a small amount of new snow. We got our summit gear together, had some breakfast and coffee, then set out towards the top. We were breaking trail through deep snow so it was slow going. We climbed into the clouds, but the winds were very moderate and it was not all that cold. The weather seemed to be improving throughout the day as it had been the previous days...until we hit Denali Pass. Denali Pass is a low point into the ridgeline at about 18,200'. As soon as we hit the ridge, the winds were "nuking". We knew that with the direction the wind was coming from, there wouldn't be any reprieve from the ridge and they would probably increase as we went higher. So, we are calling it a dress rehearsal and waiting for that perfect weather day that is coming soon! RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Taking advantage of a short weather window, a little over 80 people went for the summit today. News is still coming down from high on the mountain and things are sounding uneventful, which is a good thing! For us RMI climbers, we had several meetings today with Guides, climbers and Sherpas and decided that our time has come as well. We are planning to let a short window of weather pass and will start our final push up the mountain within the next several days weather permitting. The team is rested and excited at having known dates for our summit push and everyone is making their final preparations. Meanwhile, we will continue to listen, watch the weather and fine tune our dates as they get closer. Stay tuned for our upcoming summit launch!

After leaving the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu and making our steady way up the Khumbu Valley over the past several days, we’ve arrived at Basecamp, perched at 15,000 ft. Ama Dablam towers above us, its iconic ridges stretching around camp. Ama Dablam is named for its resemblance to a mother cradling and protecting her child. 

What a place. We’re surrounded by 360-degree views of the Khumbu’s giants, some of the tallest and most breathtaking peaks on Earth. It’s inspiring, humbling, breathtaking. A fresh blanket of snow last week has transformed the landscape into a pristine white canvas, the air crisp as the last whispers of monsoon give way to winter here in the Himalayas.

Tomorrow, we head higher for acclimatization, up to Yak Camp, the intermediate point between Basecamp and Camp 1. We’ll tag 17,000 ft and return to BC for the night, where our routine involves as much ginger, lemon, and honey tea legally possible.

After that, we begin our rotation schedule in preparation for the big show: our summit push. For now, it’s still quiet up here, let’s hope it stays that way.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by RMI Guides Leif Bergstrom & Ben Thorneycroft have been training and climbing via the Emmons Glacier. Yesterday they moved to Camp Schurman and this morning launched their alpine start.  Their team was in the summit crater around 7 am and is now making their way back to camp.  They will spend a second night at Camp Schurman and then continue down to the trailhead near White River Campground tomorrow.  The team will conclude their adventure tomorrow afternoon at Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford.

Nice work team!

It was a pretty full day, prepping everything for a few weeks of glacier living and making sure we get it right. We started with an orientation from the Park Service this morning, before diving in to unpacking our kits, and repacking them for the flight to base camp, where we will unpack them again, to pack for climbing. It's a lot of shuffling but we're feeling confident that everything is set to go. And everyone was buoyed as the skies were clear as could be all day. These clear days are when Denali (McKinley) shows off, encased in white and gleaming brightly on the skyline. Weather continues to look good for tomorrow, so we are prepped to fly first thing and get this expedition truly underway!

RMI Guides, Pete, Ben, Nick, and Team