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Posted by: Steve Gately, Jordan Cargill
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Summit Climb team led by RMI Guides Steve Gately and Jordan Cargill reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Steve reported clear skies, light winds and very cold temperatures with some thunderheads building in the east. The team will spend some time on the summit before heading back to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to Today's Teams!
Hello there. It's Eric Frank calling in from Bolivia. It's about 1:30 in the afternoon (BOT Time) and I'm at 17,400ft here on Illimani. Unfortunately, we decided this will be our high point for the climb. It's a combination of recent storm snow, and the forecast, which has made us decide to head down hill. So at this point we're going to move back to our base camp and spend our last night in the mountains. Tomorrow we will pack up, head back to La Paz, and in two short days, be back at the airport. We look forward to seeing all of you soon. Bye.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
We are very proud of you guys especially our guy Chris! Amazing accomplishments this trip. We can’t wait to see your face.
Love,
Anna, Shelby and Sammie.
Posted by: Anna Baldwin on 6/6/2018 at 2:11 pm
Still a great accomplishment and a wise decision to trust the weather forcast
You know what they say “don’t mess with Mother Nature”
Be proud team Team Eric and Andy
Special shout out to Julie
Posted by: Tina and John on 6/6/2018 at 1:20 pm
Muchas Gracias to everyone who followed our team as we set out to climb two of Ecuador's highest mountains.
The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes climbing adventure wrapped up yesterday back in the city we started in but our day was anything but ordinary. On Sunday morning we all packed up at Chilcabamba eco lodge after a great day's rest. From there we made our way up to the Jose Ribas Refuigo located at 16,000 feet on the northern slopes of Cotopaxi.
At 11 pm, our final day together began. We knew the weather on this giant volcano had not been good for at least three days so we were hoping by the time we arrived and settled in things would be improving. This hope was dashed even before we arrived at the hut. From the time we stepped off the bus to the time we put on our crampons and readied ourselves for the climb, nothing had changed. The winds blew a steady twenty with much higher gusts. Add on top of that a snow so wet I was calling it white rain, and you have yourself a pretty rough climbing day.
We all left the hut together at 1:30 am along with 25 other motivated but not necessarily optimistic climbers. 30 minutes into the climb we all resembled walking popsicles but our psych remained high. Things quickly began to deteriorate the higher we went. By 17,000 feet, the mountain had made our decision for us. There would be no summit attempt.
Other teams continued on past our retreating group but we saw them back in the hut a few hours later tired, cold and completely encased in ice. They gave the climb a valiant effort but no one came close to reaching the top. I'd like to think we made the smarter choice.
After our short attempt we phoned the magic bus and had Victor arrive early so we could escape the angry mountain. By 9 am were bound for Quito. Waking up at 11 pm always throws the body for a loop so a good lunch led into a nice siesta which then led into one of the most enjoyable final evenings I can remember.
Thanks to our beer loving Iowa boys, we found ourselves in the beautiful old town of Quito, drinking great locally crafted beer at Bandido's Brewery. The pizza was top notch, the setting unique and the beer superb. The company could not have been better. We told stories of our adventure and made plans for climbs to come. This journey could not have ended any better!
Thanks to everyone on the team for being so supportive, flexible and positive. From a guide's perspective we could not have asked for better!
Ecuador Volcanoes Out........
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
Today was a fantastic day for Team Mexico! We left our cabins at La Malinche and continued on our adventure. After a hearty buffet breakfast and a few team members saying "I can't believe I ate 3 breakfasts!" we hit the road and headed to our first objective, Ixta.
We made a quick pit stop to buy a few last items and we also acquired our park entrance permits. We are now settling in the Altzomoni Hut at 12,000'. The team went for another hike to get the blood flowing and everyone is feeling great.
We are now packing and sorting gear for our move to high camp tomorrow. Stay tuned, the team is getting pumped as we get closer to making our summit attempt!
RMI Guides JJ Justman and Mike King
On The Map
Posted by: Lindsay Mann, Tyler Jones, Chase Nelson
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'
June 15, 2015 11:27 pm PT
Some great timing, a bit of luck, and our mountain skills payed off! The team woke early to a blustery morning, had a breakfast of oatmeal and coffee and prepared our warm weather clothing and climbing equipment. We then delayed about an hour to see if the wind would lighten up and the Sun's solar rays would help the cool nip of the early morning air!
We set out on our summit attempt at 9 am and headed off to the shady slopes of the Autobahn which are the slopes that lead to Denali pass at 18,200 ft. The wind was still gusty, but relatively warm temps (about 10 degrees) allowed us to keep the digits warm and continue traveling upward. Then beyond the pass we enjoyed full on sunshine as the wind slowly diminished to a light breeze. Smooth traveling on the upper slopes accompanied by a perfect day put us on the summit around 4:00pm. Stellar views of the lower slopes of Denali and the rest of the Alaska Range were enjoyed by all. After plenty of photos and high-fives we spun around and made the return trip to camp. After a quick dinner and hot drinks everyone is is tucked away in their tents enjoying some rest after a hard days work.
Great work today team!
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
On The Map
Way to go Daddy! That’s awesome—I guess the third time is a charm. Mommy’s car said that it was 107 here today. It is so freaking hot. Hope you make it home before I go to New York in a week. We sang for the Raleigh City Council today. I think it was on TV.
Posted by: Oz on 6/16/2015 at 8:12 pm
Congrats DG! The highest point in the continent. Say, I just had an absolutely brilliant idea…billable feet! ;)
Posted by: Will Ivy on 6/16/2015 at 3:04 pm
December 11, 2014 - 8:01 pm PT
A good chunk of this day was spent like the last three days... waiting and wondering when we'd get to fly. But two thirds of the way through dinner, everything changed. The weather at Vinson got good and we got up from the table and out to take down our tents.
We'd spent the morning enjoying a fat-tire bike ride around the 10 kilometer course. During afternoon, the wind got up at Union Glacier and we stayed inside the big dining tent, playing games, reading and talking. Most had given up hope for getting to Vinson on this day by the time we got the call. We loaded into the ski equipped Twin Otter and took off in a hurry. Then we enjoyed the magical scenery as we flew up the middle of the Ellsworth Mountains. Nothing but ice and rock -in a million different configurations- as far as the eye could see. The mountains got enormous as we approached Vinson and the pilot dove down toward the Branscomb Glacier to set us, ever so smoothly, at Vinson Basecamp. We hopped out into strong sunshine and calm air... Such a relief after the winds at Union today. Up went our tents and we crawled in after staring slack-jawed at the unreal and gigantic ice cliffs and rock escarpments around us.
Tomorrow, if all goes well, we just might go mountain climbing.
Best Regards
RMI Guides Dave Hahn
On The Map
Hi everybody!
Now you did the first step to the summit and the others will follow - I`m sure!!!
Thank you for your daily report, Dave!
I´m looking forward to hear more from this special place “on the bottom of the earth”!
Take good care of you, Hans - and all together!
Best wishes to you! Ute
Posted by: Ute Novak on 12/12/2014 at 12:13 pm
RMI Guide Mike Walter and the Forbidden Peak climb checked in from camp in Boston Basin. The team is enjoying the great weather and beautiful scenery.
The Four Day Summit Climb May 23 - 26, 2014 was forced to turn around at the top of Disappointment Cleaver today due to poor weather. RMI Guides Eric Frank and Pablo Puruncajas made the call to start the descent. The team will return to Camp Muir and then start their descent to Paradise later this morning. We look forward to seeing everyone at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Be safe and finish strong. You showed courage, strength, and good judgement!
Posted by: julie grooms on 5/26/2014 at 2:11 pm
Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Zeb Blais
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
This is Zeb Blais checking in from the February Mexico Volcanoes climb. This morning we were greeted by the first rays of sun lighting Popocatepetl. We got a leisurely start to the day with a breakfast of huevos Mexicana. After breakfast we packed our gear and headed to the trailhead for our move to high camp on Ixta. The team did well and made it to high camp feeling good. After setting up tents, we spent the rest of the beautiful day relaxing in the sun. We wrapped up the day with a briefing on the climb ahead and a big dinner. Off to bed for now. We will check in from the summit. Adios.
RMI Guide Zeb Blais
On The Map
We awoke in Campo Colera to clear blue skies and light winds this morning, ready for the big pack down back to Plaza Argentina. Within a few short hours we were packed up, ready to roll and heading downhill. There's nothing like using gravity to ones advantage, and the crew did just that throughout the day.
Unfortunately we did have to recover all the gear we cached along the way, so our packs got heavier and heavier as we descended. By the time we got to Plaza Argentina, though, the weight didn't matter, and we bellied right up to waiting juice, crackers, olives, and cake bites as soon as the packs hit the ground.
Despite being tired from the past couple of days of work, the crew is doing well and still has the energy for yet another spirited round of hearts. Everyone sends their love and thanks for following along! Until tomorrow.,,
RMI Guide Garrett Stevens
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Way to go, Tim and Taylor! So proud and excited for you and your team. What a great way to spend Father’s Day weekend. Love you both so much
Posted by: Kami Small on 6/16/2018 at 3:23 pm
Congratulations Tyler!!
Posted by: Tina on 6/16/2018 at 3:13 pm
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