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Posted by: Brent Okita, Billy Nugent
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Posted by: Dominic Cifelli, Ben Luedtke
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Eight days ago eleven mountaineers drawn from around the globe to climb Mexican volcanoes gathered in a circle to introduce themselves. The group of two guides and nine climbers was comprised of friends from home, acquaintances from prior climbs, and some who were strangers to all.
Dominic, Ben, Catherine, Eric, Erica, Jean-Paul, Kat, Rich, Rossi, Thinus, and Woody came to Mexico with widely varied backgrounds, climbing resumes, and individual expectations. However, the group shared the common objectives of summiting La Malinche, Ixta, and Orizaba.
Frustration on La Malinche.
One of our group was felled below the tree line by a violent eruption of food poisoning. Half of the remaining climbers passed on attempting the last couple hundred meters to conserve energy for the week of climbing ahead. The remainder were turned back just 100m from the summit by local authorities closing the mountain early to clear the trails of spectators following the Sky Race.
Why do we climb?
Frustration on Ixta.
The team, strengthened by the addition of our local guide Allen, made high camp but our summit attempt was blown away by the violent eruptions of nearby Popo. The group descended to base camp powdered with ash and weighted with disappointment.
Why do we climb?
One last chance on Orizaba.
Setting out on the approach under the nurturing light of la luna and a clear star-speckled sky, the team was full of anticipation. We flowed up the oddly iced Jamapa glacier, traversed a segment of the mountain, climbed a challenging compact chimney, scrambled up seemingly endless scree, and then basked in the sunbeams of el sol, standing tall on the summit of the 3rd highest mountain in North America at 18,491 ft
(5,636m) of elevation. Elation.
Why we climb.
Through a week of hard work and at times harder play, the team have deepened pre-existing friendships and created potential to expand acquaintanceships. Strangers no more. Now we are sitting at breakfast, ready to return home and then continue our climbing journeys together and alone.
Why we climb…
Climber Jean-Paul Rebillard
New Post Alerts:
Mexico's Volcanoes February 24, 2024
Wednesday, October 11, 2023 - 6:10 pm PT
Well, that was a thorough soaking. On night one of Ixta we camped at the trailhead. It rained all night without a break. In the morning it was still raining, but showing signs of clearing so we packed up and headed towards high camp. About an hour in to our hike, the sun came out, revealing our surroundings. We were treated to views of Ixta proper and Popo with a dusting of snow. However, around 5pm the clouds rolled back in and it rained hard again.
It rained throughout the night, a very cold rain. When I woke up to check the weather on a few occasions I was pelted by sideways sleet. Oh right, it was quite windy as well. Sustained moderate winds and precipitation throughout the night thwarted any chance of making a summit attempt. But we can chalk the whole experience up to more acclimatization and for some members of the team, 15400' was a new altitude record or sleeping altitude record.
This morning we descended from high camp, following the direction of a new dog friend. If not already soaked from the night prior, this hike ensured everyone was completely wet. Needless to say, we are all looking forward to some good meals and rest in Puebla tonight and tomorrow. We are keeping our optimism alive for Orizaba and are honestly feeling prepared. Hopefully this weather pattern clears out before Saturday.
RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier
Great update and photos :). I hope the weather treats you right for Orizaba! Have fun B!
Posted by: Heather Collins on 10/12/2023 at 9:34 am
Tuesday, October 10, 2023 3:17pm
This is Dustin and Team checking in from high camp on Ixta. It rained constantly last night and we almost pulled the plug on climbing Ixta. However, we started uphill into the rain this morning and eventually ended up in the sun. We're now at high camp and the weather still looks iffy in the distance, but if we can thread the needle again we at least have some chance!
Wish us luck!
All the Best Dustin!!!
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 10/12/2023 at 5:32 am
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Sunday, June 18, 2023 - 7:32 pm PT
The entire crew wishes everyone a happy Father’s Day! It’s probably not how I envisioned spending my first Father’s Day as a dad, but I can think of worst places to be than 14 camp. I’m sure over the years I’ve given my dad many grey hairs and stressful nights during my adventures in the mountains. I’m sure my boy will do the same if he chooses to spend time in mountains. I know everyone up here appreciates the sacrifices our loved ones at home have made so we can be up here on Denali.
After avoiding the logjam yesterday up the fixed lines, we had the route up to the buttress to ourselves and cruised up to the top of the fixed lines to stretch the legs and get to a higher altitude. After getting back to camp we listened music while having a block party (aka building walls around our camp) in anticipation of significant snow and wind in the coming days. We probably have the best camp at 14! Our team is really firing on all cylinders and has become a family. There’s already talk about a reunion in the coming years.
I can’t thank Bleys, Mike, Steve and Kerry for all their efforts in weather forecasting and the conversations I’ve had with them. It’s admittedly a weird position to be in without internet and see for myself what the weather models are saying. So I can’t thank you enough for keeping us safe. We were holding out hope that our friends launching for the summit today would get it in but high winds and a cloud cap thwarted their efforts. It’s been a challenging season with stormy weather on Denali this year and our trip has been no different. Unfortunately for our loved ones at home it’s going to be a while longer before we make it off the mountain. Stormy weather is expected through Thursday with a possible summit window Friday and Saturday. Our team remains positive and everyone is feeling strong if and when our window comes.
I promise though we’ll be home before July hopefully with a summit!
RMI Guide Andy Bond
Posted by: Casey Grom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Hannah McGowan, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Proud for your accomplishment…...What an adventure, something that some people only dream about !
You had a Great Team of Mountaineers to be able to stay the course.. Have a safe trip home..
Grams
Posted by: Barbara Jones on 6/30/2018 at 10:11 pm
I’m so awed by this accomplishment. I plan to share the blog with my English students in the fall when they read the novel, “Peak.” Godspeed for the journey down the mountain.
Posted by: Laura Seasongood on 6/30/2018 at 8:47 am
Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
On The Map
Hey you guys !
Time for games of red light / green light, follow the leader, and good old Tag “your it”!!!
Maybe do timed “races”...?
Just be careful up there.
Cheering you on from below!
David’s Mom
Posted by: Ruth on 6/14/2018 at 11:38 am
Great Job and congrats to team Eric and Andy
Enjoy your beautiful night in Bolivia
Safe trip home to all
Stephen and Julie - love to you both
Hope to see you soon
Posted by: Tina and John Zabinski on 6/7/2018 at 6:33 pm
Sounds like a perfect way to end the trip! Hope you all have safe travels home.
Dani
Posted by: Dani Munzing on 6/7/2018 at 4:47 pm
On The Map
Such good news! Very proud of all of you. Good luck to all.
Posted by: Jan Gravrs on 7/13/2017 at 6:09 pm
Great to hear everyone’s doing well! Higher than we’ve been. Dave & Marci
Posted by: Dave Utela on 7/13/2017 at 2:05 pm
Lovely, profound reflection.
Wonderful words, memorable illustrations.
Thank you.
And congratulation.
From Midwest USA flatlands.
Waltero
Posted by: Walter Glover on 3/4/2024 at 1:58 am
A great ending to what I am sure was an incredible experience. The breakfast of course I meant. I write in my recovery journal about how the mountaineers that reach summit never focus on summit really - the ones that succeed are the ones that live in the moment and enjoy the process of the climb in and of itself whatever that means to them. Your story is very beautiful.
#mahalo
Posted by: Scott Lipinoga on 3/4/2024 at 1:26 am
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