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May 16, 2016, 5:26 pm PT
Winds overnight at our
11,200' camp were quite formidable, but our camp survived well due to our team's hard work in building walls in the previous days.
By this morning, the winds abated somewhat at camp, so we rose early and fired stoves. We were hoping that we would be able to climb to Windy Corner at 13,600' to place a cache of supplies for up higher. Unfortunately, it wasn't our day and the winds continued through most of the day.
Instead we spent the morning adding more snow blocks to our camp for further wind protection. Everyone is doing well and in good spirits. We'll try again tomorrow to get our cache up high. That's all for now.
RMI Guide Mike Walter and team
On The Map
Buenas Dias de Puebla! The team is relaxing with some well earned hot showers after a big 24 hours in the mountains. Unfortunately, the weather deities did not smile upon us for our attempt on
Ixta. After a great job getting to camp at around 15,300 feet above the sea, we weren't tucked in our sleeping bags for more than a few hours before an exquisite storm rolled in and sat on us for the remained of the night. Our 2 am wake up turned into 3 am, then 4,5,6 and 7 before we finally threw in the towel. Lightning and steady snow can sure make a call easy, but with such a strong crew, I'm sure we could have made a solid bid for the top if the weather cooperated. Everyone did great work weathering the storm and are about to enjoy a fun rest day in Puebla tomorrow. Keep those fingers crossed for a break in the case, weather wise.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
100% on the
Cotopaxi summit! Everyone is safe back at the hacienda. Once we are back in Quito, we'll check in again.
Congratulations team!
RMI Guide Casey Grom
On The Map
Hola desde Huaraz!
Greetings from the
Peruvian Switzerland, where the team has just arrived!!! After everyone's flights made it timely around midnight yesterday in Lima, we all met for breakfast this morning. Shortly after a formal meeting and introductions of team members and the program, we all, filled with excitement, loaded the bus with climbing duffle bags and got on the road.
We made it to our hotel "Club Andino" right on time for dinner and to meet our outfiter Peter and local guide Carlos, who will accompany us in our Ishinca Valley adventure. We're moving to a well deserved night of sleep as we speak... lots of miles in the last 48h for everyone!
Tomorrow we have a short hike planned to "Laguna Churup" in the morning to start acclimatization and some logistic arrangements in the afternoon. We will be checking in again at the end of the day.
Best regards from Peru,
RMI Guides
Elias de Andres Martos,
Robby Young & Team
This morning’s climb led by Win Whittaker and Billy Nugent had to turn around at 12,300’ because of low visibility and high winds. They were back at Camp Muir where it was snowing and in the clouds. They are planning on heading back to Paradise around 8:00 a.m.
Hey, this is the Alaska Seminar checking in from the Kahiltna Base Camp. Today we went out on the Kahiltna Glacier and did a nice glacier tour for a few hours. Went around the beautiful Mt. Francis and also did some knot training, sled rigging and lots of fun stuff here. Beautiful weather on the Kahiltna and tomorrow looks to be the same. Wish us luck with good weather.
RMI Guide Jason Thompson
RMI Guide
Nick Scott and the
Five Day Climb reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning! Nick reported blue skies, light winds, and chilly temperatures on the summit. The team began their descent to Camp Muir a shortly after 7:30 AM. Once back and Camp Muir, the team will repack after their two nights on the mountain before continuing their descent to Paradise.
Congratulations!
Snow lightly pitter pattered against our tents. Every so often we tapped the sides of the tent to knock the snow down. We woke to a winter wonderland. As we boiled water for coffee you could hear sloughs of snow tumble down the mountain side. Mother nature had spoken. The mountain had spoken. We were not going to climb. Due to the amount of snow that had fallen and the terrain we were going to get on, we were concerned about the avalanche hazard. Today was not going to be our moment to climb. Instead we packed up our camp as the snow fell from the sky and more snow rumbled down the mountain. Our packs were heavy and the walking slippery with the new snow on slick grass and crumbly rock as we made our way back to Base Camp. Tomorrow we will enjoy our last day at our Base Camp. The following day we are looking at going up and over a col to a new valley for a few days before we begin our trek out. For now, we are all getting cozy in our sleeping bags, for there is a chilly crispness to the night air.
Sweet dreams,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith
Monday, June 4, 2018 - 7:41 pm PT
BEST DAY YET! It finally feels like we are out climbing, not just on a long walk uphill dragging sleds. We started the day with some blueberry pancakes and bacon. It left our mountain kitchen messy but was a tasty way to start the day. Then we got all geared up with our ascenders. Ropes and packs and headed up the headwall right out of camp. The high temperature is about 5 degrees F, but in the sunshine we are climbing in a single layer and loving it. We will take another scheduled rest day tomorrow in prep to head to the summit as soon as the weather allows.
Best wishes to all our family and friends, we miss you all.
RMI Guide Walter Hailes
On The Map
We last gave a shout from 7,600’ at the base of Ski Hill on our descent. It was a long day, beginning with the sun hitting
17 Camp, where we packed up all of our belongings, and headed back down the West Buttress. Conditions couldn’t have been better, and before long we were shedding layers as quickly as we could as we walked into the heat of 14 Camp. An hour of repacking and grabbing more of our gear that we had cached there as well as visiting with
RMI Guide Tyler Jones’ team had us ready to move out again. By 11, the air felt thick and the temps were even warmer. RMI Guide Jake Beren and team had been nice enough to dig up our cache, so once more we repacked, adjusted our sleds, traded crampons for snowshoes, and kept beat footing our way down the mountain. We rolled into 7,600 at 10 pm, and though there was a lot of discussion of just continuing on to Base Camp, we decided to throw up the tents for a few hours. We were rewarded with spectacular light as the sun dipped behind the surrounding peaks, and it was a special last night on the glacier. By 4 am we were up and walking again. The few hours of sleep had added some spring to everyones’ step and we flew down glacier, reaching Base Camp in 2.5 hours. We parked next to the runway just as the sun hit. At 9 am on the dot, our good friends from K2 Aviation showed up in three Otters to pick up ourselves and Mike Walter’s team, and by 10 we were in flip-flops back in Talkeetna. Everyone enjoyed the ensuing leisurely day of sorting gear, showers, ice cream, coffee, a celebratory dinner, and a few hours in the classic Fairview Inn. Everyone has split now, finishing plane journey’s back home to loved ones.
Thanks so much to our team. They climbed in great style, were equal to the task when things got difficult, put up with a lot of tent time and waiting, and ultimately were able to power through a move to 17 and a summit day without having carried there. We summited an hour or so after Mike Walter’s group (the first guide service summit of the year), on the first viable summit day that had presented itself during our entire stint on the mountain. We were rewarded with incredibly clear views, warm temps, and an overall fantastic day. The views on the way out were pretty stunning as well. Thanks also to all of you for following along. Sore feet and legs are fading away but folks are already talking of their next climbs to come. We look forward to it!
Best,
RMI Guides Pete, Jess, and Jenny.
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Chris and team,
Glad to hear your reinforcing that snow wall…Dad and I can only imagine how tough the weather conditions your enduring. We will continue to think good thoughts and prayers…hope the winds calm some so you can start the next phase of your journey.
We enjoy these updates so much…thank you.
Mom and Dad
Posted by: Dave & Melissa on 5/17/2015 at 8:56 am
Got the blog info from LaNette this morning. Will follow your progress. God bless.
Posted by: Richard Wang on 5/17/2015 at 8:26 am
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