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Posted by: Brent Okita, Mike King
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,080'
The storm hitting us at Camp Muir originated in the tropics and we wouldn't have been surprised to see palm fronds waving in the breeze given how unseasonably warm it is up here. Yes, it's still snowing, but just. And for being at 10,000' that's warm!
We started our day discussing numerous topics in the Bunkhouse, but ventured out by mid morning. Equipped though we were with full on Gortex storm gear it took less than an hour for the moisture in the cloud enveloping our world to permeate the vaunted membrane of our rain gear.
But we persevered and got some great training in, developing our expertise in handling running belays and evaluating snow stability through studying snow pits. Lunchtime found us back inside, thankful for the plywood protection of our bunkhouse and trying to dry out our external layers through our bodies natural internal combustion. It does work, but slowly.
There was plenty to talk about through the afternoon, and when queried whether anyone wanted more outdoor training a decided no was the response. A smart group!
The evening culminated with war stories of Everest and beyond.
Now that we're back in our old sleeping bags the weather gods are unleashing a tempest like no other. All we can hope is that this big bad storm is blowing itself out. Dreams of a pleasant descent tomorrow morning might allow some well deserved sleep tonight.
Goodnight from Camp Muir.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Namaste from Namche Bazaar, a.k.a. "downtown Khumbu", as the Sherpa say.
Our second day on the trails delivered the best weather possible, which allowed for the first view of two Himalayan giants, Lhotse and Chomolongma in the distance, but also the towering Tamserku and Kushum Kangkaru, that overlooked our progress like patient sentinels.
Crossing the suspension bridges back and forth over the Dudh Koshi River, while taking turns with the caravans of Dzo Dzos (hybrid between yak and cow) added excitement to the steady elevation gaining of our legs.
Arriving in Namche was a surreal image, as people from all over the world merge here from the different circuits of this region. Our rewarding dinner is bringing us now close to bed, and we look forward to spending a day here tomorrow allowing our bodies to acclimate to the new altitude.
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team
Greetings once more from Ecuador!
Today was what climbers like to call an "active rest day". After our successful summit of Cayambe yesterday, our bodies need some time to recover and prepare for our next objective. But rather than just napping all day, we took the opportunity to exercise our minds and learn a few new technical skills.
We moved this morning from the hacienda to our Base Camp for Antisana, where we pitched a bunch of tents in the rolling meadows at the base of the peak. After a little bit of afternoon napping, we donned our thinking caps and filled the evening hours refreshing our knowledge on knots and practiced a crevasse rescue scenario around camp. This was followed by an incredible pasta dinner cooked by fellow guide Steve Gately. If he wasn't such a good guide, he'd make a pretty good chef!
With full bellies, we crawled in to our sleeping bags to get another good night of rest. Tomorrow morning we'll head out to the toe of Antisana's glaciers for more training in the field.
Stay tuned for updates tomorrow as we prepare for our second summit attempt!
Until then,
RMI Guides Nick Hunt and Steve Gately, and the rest of the Ecuador Team
Our departure from the Dik Dik Hotel was right on time. A couple hours of travelling and we arrived at the Machame Gate of Kilimanjaro National Park. We spent a bit of time getting organized and sorting out climbing permits before setting out into the cloud forest at 6,000' plus. Over the course of five hours, 4,000' in elevation gain, and 20,346 steps we arrived at our first camp on the mountain: Machame Camp. Throughout the day we had beautiful views of the mountain and perfect climbing conditions. The whole team is doing well and everyone is glad to have started the climb.
The dinner bell is about to ring so I better run...
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
On The Map
Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
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June 16, 2015 11:47 pm
It was cold this morning at 17,000' Camp. I mean walking down the ridge in parkas and puffy pants cold. With light winds and a nip in the air we picked our way down the west buttress amongst throngs of other climbers seeking lower elevations. Once we started down the fixed lines the wind died and the solar began cooking us, we walked into 14,000' Camp wishing we had shorts. After a few hours relaxing at our old home we loaded up and continued on to 11 Camp for the night. We had a custom order fry up for dinner, trying to cook all the remaining cheese, meat, tortillas and other heavy items before hitting the sack. Our plan is to wake up in the middle of the night and walk to the airstrip. If all goes as planned we should be back in Talkeetna by mid day. Thanks for following along on our Upper West Rib expedition.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens
On The Map
Posted by: Tyler Jones, Lindsay Mann, Chase Nelson
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
Friday June 12th 10:10 pm PT
Fortress at 14k on Mount McKinley!
Today was a clear day but the winds raged as the high pressure slowly comes our way!
The fortress of snow-block walls now fully encloses our tents and cook house with an entry straight from stone hedge! A giant block caps the archway leading into our dojo!
The wind still whips as plumes of blowing snow briefly create little to no visibility in camp. A blue bird day that is hampered by a ground blizzard. If you ask me this is what the experience of Denali is all about. In the next few days the wind will likely subside and crystal clear skies, warm and breathless air will remain. Fingers crossed we will get our perfect day to climb and stand atop the highest point in North America. Till then we'll hang low in our tents basking in our BO stir fry;).
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
Posted by: Casey Grom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside
Hello everyone and welcome to RMI's July 25th Mt. Elbrus trip!
After some very long flights the team safely arrived yesterday, we briefly touched base about today's plan before folks retired to catch up on some much needed sleep.
Today we had our official team meeting over breakfast at our hotel. It was hard to concentrate while enjoying plenty of fresh bread, cheeses, meats, juice and other delightful things. Once our bellies were full we stumbled out the door to explore the Kremlin and Red Square which is only a short distance away. A few folks visited Lenin's tomb and a few of us wandered around the area enjoying the site.
We met our tour guide around 10:30 am and spent much of the day with her visiting St. Basil's Cathedral, the Kremlin, and the Cathedral of Christ the Savior. Our tour guide even took us on a brief tour of the amazing Moscow subway - it has a 194 different stops and most are elaborately decorated and incredibly clean! We did visit the famous Red Square but for unknown reasons it was closed and blocked off today.
Afterwards we took a short break where most of us took cat naps to help adjust to the almost 12 hour time change and then headed back out for a quick dinner before calling it a night.
Everyone is doing great!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and Team
Gregory enjoy the climb. We wish all a safe adventure. God bless Mami.
Posted by: Josie on 7/28/2014 at 5:31 pm
I hope you all have fun! Kym and Liz, be nice to Casey and have a great and safe trip. He’s a super guide and a lot of fun.
There were rumors on Twitter last week that the Russian government had decided to close Red Square.
Eric
Posted by: Eric Y. on 7/28/2014 at 8:53 am
After a couple of nice days in Quito, our team packed up early this morning and left the city life for more rural flavors. We traveled north a few hours from Quito to the beautiful mountain lakes of Lagunas Monjanda and went for a great acclimatization hike up Fuya Fuya.
The hike consisted of a steep trail through high altitude Andean grassland, or "paramo", followed by a rock scramble to the summit...with great views of beautiful lakes below us. Everyone climbed really well as we made short work of the 14,000'-plus peak.
Now we're resting at the tranquilo Casa Sol, watching Ecuador play Honduras in the World Cup. Buena suerte Ecuador!
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Greetings from Ecuador! Our team all arrived in Quito, Ecuador yesterday, and we met for our first official team meal this morning. After introductions and reviewing trip logistics, we departed the hotel and spent the day on a city tour of Old Town Quito. We visited the Basilica, the presidential palace, and various other historically significant locales while learning about the foundation and history of Quito and Ecuador from our very knowledgeable local guide, Jorge.
After lunch we headed north to the Equator, and visited an ethnographic museum where we were able to straddle the Equator, as well as learn about various native cultures of Ecuador. A fun day of sight seeing was just what we needed, as we get used to the altitude of Quito (9,000') and recover from a long day of travel yesterday.
Tomorrow we will venture out on our first acclimatization hike up the Volcano Rucu Pichincha. We'll keep you posted with updates along the way.
Hasta luego!
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Four rope teams on the Four Day Summit Climb June 29th - July 2nd tagged the top of Mount Rainier at 6:30 a.m. By 7:40 a.m., the teams were starting the traverse at the top of Disappointment Cleaver on their descent to Camp Muir.
The teams have beautiful, bluebird weather and moderate winds. Congratulations!
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Happy birthday, Kimmy!! Hope you had a great day making your way back down! Your trip looks like it’s been absolutely incredible. So proud of you and can’t wait to hear your voice again soon!! xox
Posted by: Corey on 6/18/2015 at 1:18 pm
Hi Kim, GREAT! WOW ..We are so excited for you & the amazing RMI team!! Trish & I look forward to seeing you In ALASKA & telling you in person how proud we are of you & the entire team!!! See you real soon!! Travel safe & stay well! Love, Dad
Posted by: SHEL on 6/17/2015 at 8:53 am
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