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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Trip Conclusion

We last gave a shout from 7,600’ at the base of Ski Hill on our descent. It was a long day, beginning with the sun hitting 17 Camp, where we packed up all of our belongings, and headed back down the West Buttress. Conditions couldn’t have been better, and before long we were shedding layers as quickly as we could as we walked into the heat of 14 Camp. An hour of repacking and grabbing more of our gear that we had cached there as well as visiting with RMI Guide Tyler Jones’ team had us ready to move out again. By 11, the air felt thick and the temps were even warmer. RMI Guide Jake Beren and team had been nice enough to dig up our cache, so once more we repacked, adjusted our sleds, traded crampons for snowshoes, and kept beat footing our way down the mountain. We rolled into 7,600 at 10 pm, and though there was a lot of discussion of just continuing on to Base Camp, we decided to throw up the tents for a few hours. We were rewarded with spectacular light as the sun dipped behind the surrounding peaks, and it was a special last night on the glacier. By 4 am we were up and walking again. The few hours of sleep had added some spring to everyones’ step and we flew down glacier, reaching Base Camp in 2.5 hours. We parked next to the runway just as the sun hit. At 9 am on the dot, our good friends from K2 Aviation showed up in three Otters to pick up ourselves and Mike Walter’s team, and by 10 we were in flip-flops back in Talkeetna. Everyone enjoyed the ensuing leisurely day of sorting gear, showers, ice cream, coffee, a celebratory dinner, and a few hours in the classic Fairview Inn. Everyone has split now, finishing plane journey’s back home to loved ones. Thanks so much to our team. They climbed in great style, were equal to the task when things got difficult, put up with a lot of tent time and waiting, and ultimately were able to power through a move to 17 and a summit day without having carried there. We summited an hour or so after Mike Walter’s group (the first guide service summit of the year), on the first viable summit day that had presented itself during our entire stint on the mountain. We were rewarded with incredibly clear views, warm temps, and an overall fantastic day. The views on the way out were pretty stunning as well. Thanks also to all of you for following along. Sore feet and legs are fading away but folks are already talking of their next climbs to come. We look forward to it! Best, RMI Guides Pete, Jess, and Jenny.
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congrats for making it to the summit Rachel ! :) Pallavi.

Posted by: Pallavi Chahal on 6/8/2017 at 12:46 am

Congratulations Rachel Calvert, Pete and team! Have been following the blog and was so pleased to hear all made the summit safely and saw the beautiful Alaska range on a clear sunny day.
Rachel - will have to catch up with you and see your photos when you are back in Australia.
Renee Duvoisin (2015 summit team)

Posted by: Renee Duvoisin on 6/6/2017 at 4:18 pm


MT. Rainier: May 28th Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb team led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Chase Nelson reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Casey reported that the team is enjoying clear, calm and peaceful skies. The team was leaving the Crater Rim at 6:50 am and are now en route to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's team!
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Great job, everyone!  What a weekend and chance to experience something new with all of you.  My wife asks me why I do things like this and I tell her that beyond the enjoyment of being out in the world and seeing/experiencing first hand what many never will, I always learn something from it - the experience, the people and about myself.  I will remember this for a long time - thank you.

Also, I have some pictures and I’d be happy to share - if you have some good ones, I’d love to see them.  My e-mail is here.

Last but not least - hat’s off to Casey, Matt, Hannah and Taylor.  Summit or not, you helped us do what we could do and you got us home safe - that is what is most important.

Posted by: John Mattke on 5/31/2017 at 12:46 pm


North Cascades: Ben Liken Leads His Team to the Top of Sahale Peak

Over the past four days the Sahale summit team enjoyed perfect weather and excellent climbing in the North Cascades National Park. As we ascended out of the forest on day one the views kept getting better and better until we stopped to set up our base camp at 5,300 feet. Looking up at the spectacular Boston Basin the team was excited to go up high over the next few days. Day 2 was a training day at the toe of the Quien Sabe Glacier; filled with efficiency techniques, crevasse safety, and rock climbing. After a full day of training we went to bed early to rest up for a summit attempt on the classic peak. Summit day went flawlessly and we found ourselves on top at 10:30 am after some really fun glacier and rock climbing sections. Here are a few shots from the trip. Enjoy! RMI Guide Ben Liken
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Ben - fix the links under the photos! I click on them and they take me to a Mt. Denali expedition.

Posted by: Malcolm Butler on 8/17/2016 at 9:23 pm


Mt. Rainier: June 19th Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb, led by Seth Waterfall and Ben Liken, reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. Seth reported a fair amount of wind and cool temperatures with clouds hanging around 9,000’. Both teams began their descent at 7:25 a.m.
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

We have prayed through the night that you and your team would summit this morning, June 19, 2018.

Posted by: Larry and Virgie Henry for Kari Henry on 6/19/2018 at 6:55 am

Go miki Mcadoo Kirby and Erik I will be watching for you

Posted by: Janice on 6/21/2015 at 6:28 am


Alaska Seminar: Davis & Team Train at Kahiltna Base Camp

May 18, 2015 - 11:43 pm PT Hello- Our day in Base Camp was as busy as it can get. After a leisurely breakfast of pancakes bacon and coffee, we divided up to learn and practice beacon searches, surface hauling systems and rig our sleds for moving up river. A great day under a blazing sun that had us wondering how we can be surrounded by so much snow yet be so dang hot. Tomorrow we leave our camp loaded with five days of provisions and make our way towards Kahiltna Dome. We will talk again from Camp 1! RMI Guides Leon Davis, Lindsay Fixmer, Bridget Belliveau & Team

On The Map

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Team Reaches Kahiltna Glacier

Hey RMI. This is Dave Hahn calling in a dispatch from 9,500' on the Kahiltna Glacier. We had a small snow storm last night at 7,800'. Started about 1:00 or 2:00 a.m. until about 5:30 a.m. with about 6" new snowfall. We delayed our plans for climbing a couple of hours. We were going to get a really early start. But then after breakfast at about 8:00 a.m., it was looking good so we moved up to 9,500'. It ended up being a beautiful day and wonderful conditions. We've got the whole place all to ourselves. There really hasn't been any traffic passing by in either direction once we got started, so pretty pleasant. There's low clouds below but above it's all clear and we're really enjoying the weather and conditions. Everybody is in a good mood this evening. All for now.
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Aconcagua: Cifelli & Team Move to Camp 2

I had a reprieve from the blog yesterday as I was focused on my wife’s birthday…and I forgot to write it . Happy birthday again Tory, I love you and miss you and never want to be this far away from you, we all send birthday wishes from South America! 

Today we moved to Camp 2 at 18,000' feet, Camp Guanaco, and we could not be more pleased. I think Dom’s description yesterday of the wind at Camp 1 can be expanded upon and I would contrast it to each sorry climber having their own miniature tornado that follows you and continually gut punches you while yelling the the lyrics of Achy Breaky Heart over and over for which you cannot escape. Trying to relieve yourself of #1 merely winds up on your boots regardless of the direction you are facing, leaving you with a frozen reminder of your wonderful experience at Camp 1. 

Anyway, today I woke up to less wind and clear skies. I unzipped my sleeping bag fully taking in the aromas that I had deposited there over the last several days, too afraid to search my foot box for a dead Guanaco. After wiping the tears from my eyes and checking my pulse, I exited my tent to experience these clear skies. No headache and feeling cocky, I walked 30 feet up a ridge line to celebrate my fitness, only to experience my heart rate jumping from 70 to 130, altitude humbling me again. We had Argentinian bagels with bacon and cream cheese, a familiar flavor I thought I may have experienced before (yesterday). We packed up and headed out, feeling stronger than the previous day. Porters passed us without effort, carrying so much gear they looked like something out of a Dr. Seuss book. Our carry was leisurely, a lot of photos and selfies, and pats on the back. Major daily decisions were beginning to materialize: should I brush my teeth today, weather windows to relieve ourselves, drinking, eating, should I use my wet wipes or help my team out by signaling my presence so they don’t lose track of me- my daughter and I share similar views on these important questions in the wilderness. 

We arrived at Camp Guanaco early afternoon. We were welcomed by the German team (not really) broadcasting their Rave music across camp with a beat totally out of sync with our slow deliberate movements sparking visions of some remote college parties gone terribly wrong that I will go into no further detail. Privacy and individual space were no more, tents packed together, no one using their inside voices, and now sharing common areas/domes with other climbers- but no one yearned for the miniature tornadoes again. 

There is an international feel to Camp 2, and with that comes an international difference in manners and hospitalities. I felt a need to share my thoughts on proper etiquette by covering up when sneezing or coughing, yelling in close proximity contributes to mountain sickness, and if a person is standing in front of you you can’t just walk through them. My attempt at conforming behavior inside the dome was brushed off, so after I took the non-conformists out at the knees and made them kiss the hand, I quietly exited the dome a champion celebrated by my team, like something out of a Marvel movie. We ate our dinner, breaking down the flavors and spices of our culinary experience, shared our desired and current superpowers, if you could drink only 5 drinks the rest of your life out of your fingers what would they be, then resigned to our tents for reading, audio books, and movies on our phones. 

I don’t know if any of the above events actually occurred as the altitude is clearly impacting my thought processes and disinhibiting my frontal lobe. But I will share with you that my chosen Marvel name is Land Shark, and my alias is Jack Handy. My team are Thanos killers, but will settle for summiting Aconcagua if she smiles on us and deems us worthy. In the end, I don’t even know who plays Land Shark and puts on that androgynous hood, but I love that Saturday Night Live lore and I am bringing it back, much to the dismay of my coworkers and family. Goodnight everyone.

RMI Climber Brian Goltry

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Hey Brian et al - looks like you are having a great time.  What an experience!  Brian, I am sure all the fitness challenges you are experiencing and are able to overcome, are partially due to all the fitness challenges I set up for you in the backyard at mom’s house

Posted by: Lettie Kirk on 1/20/2025 at 4:31 am


North Cascades: Walter & Team Training on Mount Shuksan

We had a great day of training today. We practiced ice axe arrest, cramponing, glacier travel, rock scrambling, steeper snow climbing techniques and efficiency skills. The weather was beautiful and we enjoyed a great day in a spectacular location in the North Cascades. RMI Guide Mike Walter
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Aconcagua: Gately & Team Make Summit Attempt

RMI Guide Steve Gately checked in from 21,500' on Aconcagua. The team made a summit attempt today with a push from Camp 2. Unfortunately the team members were forced to turn around without reaching the summit due to poor climbing conditions. The storms of the past few days had dropped lots of new snow. The team will stay the night at Camp 2. Tomorrow they plan to descend to Base Camp. RMI Office

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

So sorry to hear about the weather - a terrible disappointment, but look at how far you’ve gotten! Bob - bravo - there will be more mountains to climb!! Have a safe and uneventful descent, and we are looking forward to welcoming you back!!!

Posted by: John Horgan on 12/27/2016 at 9:41 am

Sorry to hear about the weather problems. Safe returns back down.

Bob - very proud of what you did and looking forward to seeing you on your return!

Joe and Karen

Posted by: Joe Reinkemeyer on 12/27/2016 at 9:38 am


Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Move to 14,000 Camp

July 4, 2015 1:11 am PST This was the day. The weather was a whole lot better than the last few days, but it wasn't perfect. A little blustery. We needed to take advantage though to get out of 11,000' and up to 14,000' Camp. Even having had a handful of teams break trail on the route before we made our effort today, we still anticipated a tough haul with knee deep snow on such steep hills. Motorcycle took longer than normal, Squirrel took longer, the Polo Fields went on forever, Windy Corner was windy (and it took longer). It was all pretty tough going until we got around the corner and reached our cache location from the other day. Finally there was less new snow, less wind and a decent track to follow. It was still uphill though. It took us 8.5 hours to cover what should have taken 6 hours, but what a wonderful feeling to roll into 14 Camp after thinking of it so much when we were stuck down below. We've got different and magnificent views now, of Denali, but also of Mount Foraker and Mount Hunter and about a thousand other peaks when the clouds allow. We did a late dinner after camp was built and then hurried in to the tents for the night. It is colder up here, and colder still when the sun goes behind the mountain. Everybody deserves good rest after such a big day. Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Gary Ross, You really are going to great lengths to prove that happiness is found in being “cold, wet, tired and hungry”.  I am following the RMI blog everyday and from the sound of things, you must be positively joyful!
Here at 465’ I am thinking of you and wishing you plenty of happiness along your journey up and down that magnificent mountain. 
Mary

Posted by: Mary R on 7/4/2015 at 11:19 pm

We’re all rooting for you!! Happy 4th, miss you!! xoxo

Posted by: Anne Thomas on 7/4/2015 at 6:42 pm

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