RMI Guides Jackson Breen and Mike Bennett lead their Mt. Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys July 14 - 16 team to the summit with 100% of their team. They climbed the SE ridge to the summit on Monday and plan to descend via the Fisher Chimneys route today.
The moment we got out of the tents, it was pretty clear we were going to rest in camp today. Gusts of wind were rolling through camp at irregular intervals, shaking the tents in waves across camp. It wasn't particularly strong, just really noisy. Above, however, it was clear that the wind was much stronger, clouds flew by, and a lenticular hovered over the West Buttress. Below, clouds were thick on the Kahiltna as well. So, we lingered over breakfast, then retreated to the tents for reading, napping, and movie time. It was good timing for a rest day for us anyways.
We'll take a look at it tomorrow and see how we go.
Monday, May 27, 2019 - 5:41 PM PT
Winds remained strong overnight and our camp weathered the storm admirably. The combo of strong mountaineering tents, solid anchors, and stout snow walls creates a pretty burly fortress against the elements.
This morning we had some blue sky above us for a couple hours before the clouds eased back in. Winds up high on the West Buttress continue to be strong. We're hopeful that the weather forecast validates and winds will diminish by tomorrow. We might have a short window to summit in the next few days. We'll see what plays out, but we'd like to climb to High Camp tomorrow and hopefully have a chance to summit on Wednesday. We're at the mercy of the weather though, so our schedule remains flexible to her whim.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Wishing you great climbing weather for the summit bid. I’m hoping that when I wake up in the morning (May 29) I’ll see your personal tracker shows you’re well on your way to the summit.
Take care Tom M and the whole Walter team.
With love
Jacquie
Posted by: Jacquie Byatt on 5/28/2019 at 9:03 pm
Let Dan Koster know that his family has been following your blog and we are excited for the summit bid! Glad you weathered the storm and are pushing on to Camp 17,200’!
Hey, this is Mike with the Mexico volcanoes team. We are standing at 18,491 feet on a clear, windless day on the summit of Pico de Orizaba. We had a cold calm morning to start off with lots of new snow on the route made for great climbing. The team is doing well. We will be descending here momentarily. We will send you a message when we're back safe down in Tlachichuca. Thanks for following along. Everyone's doing great.
RMI Guide Mike King
RMI Guide Mike King calls from the summit of Pico de Orizaba.
Good evening again from Camp 1 of Kyajo Ri! We made the move under incredible weather today, and our camp by the lake at the toe of the glacier is worth a trip to the Himalaya by itself.
We're in a good position, and we'll continue to make progress tomorrow, so stay tuned!
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos
Today was our first full view of the Towers! We walked around the final corner of our trail today and pow! The towers jumped out at us and took our breath away. Then we proceeded to have drinks and dinner with the most incredible view out our dinning room window. We all feel so fortunate for this beautiful place and how well the land has been preserved. The weather has been outstanding with hot sun and light winds instead of the typical rainy days and strong winds. This morning the group took a speed boat to the base of the Grey Glacier where we scrambled up the nunitac put on crampons and walked around to see the sculpture garden made by running water over the ice. Our long days on the trail are making muscles sore and feet tender but spirits are high and our faces all hurt from smiling all day. We feel lucky to be here and sharing this experience with such a fun group of people.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
Dear Mom, I’m having a blast, yesterday Kate took a compass bearing and we set out for a woods walk. Chase and I hiked along a big brook of snow melt, we layed in it. We snuck up on a couple of turkeys and almost had them by the tail. That put me into a frenzy, I LOVE chasing game birds. I get salmon on my breakfast and sleep it off by the wood stove. Chase and I have taken over Kate’s side of the bed! Hope you’re lovin’’ it! Love, your loyal Charlie-girl
Posted by: Charlie Sanders on 2/25/2018 at 6:32 am
Good evening from Moraine Camp.
The Alpamayo team woke this morning to lots of coffee and a delicious breakfast, as per usual at Base Camp. After breakfast we spent the morning packing and discussing various gear options. Today was another beautiful sunny day so after we were packed we lounged in the sun and read our books until lunch time. Finally after lunch we decided we aught to do a little work so we shouldered our packs and started the hike to Moraine Camp. Despite it being sunny a slight breeze kept the afternoon hike very comfortable. By late afternoon we were settling in, enjoying the views, and sipping tea.
Tomorrow we will rise early and hit the glacier leading us up to the Col and then High Camp.
Thanks for following along with us,
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Alpamayo team
Acclimatization by Ski Doo is one advantage of having skis here on Mt. Elbrus. For a little morning activity on our rest day, we caught a snowmobile ride to 15,000', and climbed up to 16,000' in steady winds. We actually had some visibility on our descent this time and were able to enjoy the turns a bit more than yesterday's whiteout run.
We spent the afternoon making preparations for an alpine start in the morning. If the forecast verifies, we'll have a nice clearing trend throughout the morning and hopefully summitable conditions. We're feeling psyched and ready.
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
Today we awoke to blue skies above and beautiful views of the mountain, but as we set off on our acclimatization ski tour, the clouds followed us. We spent the majority of the day in minimal visibility - the Elbrus ping pong ball. Strong solar radiation made for uncomfortably warm temps, which combined with the whiteout was a challenge to our motivation. But we persevered, and climbed to the top of Pastukhova Rocks at 15,500'.
We "skied by braille" back down the route to our camp and were greeted by Dasha our cook with delicious soup and fried chicken. A very successful acclimatization ski, despite the clouds...
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
"I don't think that people are so much looking for the meaning of life as they are looking for the experience of being alive"--Joseph Campbell
Climbing mountains is ultimately an absurd act, to stand on top of a pile of rocks and call it a success, laughable. In yet, it is something anyone who has ever shared the feeling knows the feeling: powerful, liberated, inspired. Wind-whipped, bodily spent, surrounded by ravaging beauty--beyond providing meaning for living, it provides the feeling of being fully alive. That feeling is only magnified when combined with the pure spirit of speed and fluidity found on a ski descent.
Early May is an excellent time for a climb and ski on Mt. Baker and I'm just back from two trips up in the northern reaches of the Cascades. Thick snows blanket the land—especially after this winter—providing a smooth carpet for cruising up to the high flanks of the mountains. That's not to say the approach is easy—for starters, as is usual, the road was blocked by snow several miles short of the actual Heliotrope Trailhead. Secondly, navigating through the dense Pacific Northwest forests requires lots of muscles that no amount of resort skiing or even gym training can fully develop. Plus, there's the prospect of needing to carry those skis on the pack. Forty pound packs quickly become fifty-five on the back. While our first trip allowed us to get to camp on skis, spring comes quickly in the Cascades and by the second trip we were shouldering the skis until treeline.
Whether approached by ski or with those skis on your back, the arrival above treeline on Baker comes abruptly and spectacularly. Unlike many an alpine ascent, where the trees gradually shrink in size to Charlie Brown Christmas trees, on Baker's Heliotrope Trail approach it goes from massive towers to wide open alpine in the time it takes to apply sunscreen. Clouds came and went throughout our trips, but when they cleared, the stunning serac falls at the terminus of the Coleman Glacier, the stately girth of Mt. Baker's volcanic cone, and the sheer ice face of Colfax Peak made it clear why we'd worked so hard to get there.
On both trips we were fortunate to have time and energy to enjoy some beautiful turns above camp on Hogsback Ridge. Skinning up, we looked at ways to improve our kick turns, balance, and tracking techniques and to practice roped travel while skiing. Viewing camp from a thousand feet above, we ripped skins, carved turns in sweet-edging snow and cruised back to camp to prep for the summit push.
The morning hour always come early, but it's a little easier with the benefit of the full moon we experienced. Rising up to boil water for coffee, our shadows mixed among the long shadows cast by the small trees around camp. Shaking out the soreness of the approach, we slurped down some oatmeal and caffeine before clicking in and gliding up. On our first climb we utilized ski crampons to leave camp with skis on, digging the teeth of the crampons in with each step to allow us a smooth ascent. On the second climb we relied instead on boot crampons to power us up past the steeper parts of Hogsback Ridge to where things leveled off enough to skin without crampons. While both can work, ski crampons definitely allow more time to enjoy the fluid uphill motion that skinning provides, and ski crampons are definitely advisable for a Mt. Baker Climb-Ski.
A mix of shaky weather, altitude, and the challenge of converting climbing fitness to skinning finesse stopped us short of the summit on the first trip, but the beauty of ski mountaineering is that even without a summit, every step upward is a success, as it increases the joy of going down. High up on the Pumice Ridge, views of the Puget Sound and British Columbia's Coastal Range slipped in and out of the clouds as we ripped skins and prepared for the descent. With the light sometimes flat and spring crevasses beginning to show, we pitched things out more conservatively on the descent, allowing time to enjoy all the hard-earned 4000' of vertical. And with each turn of descent the skiing became increasingly edgeable and enjoyable, a fresh layer atop the thick winter's snowpack. Rolling back into camp with smiles, fist bumps, and a feeling of refreshment is one of the uniquely attractive aspects ski mountaineering presents to the world of alpine climbing.
The second Mt. Baker Climb-Ski was a custom trip, so it allowed us time to both climb Baker in the optimal (if shaky) weather window and then sneak in some time afterward to focus on the pure joy of climbing to ski. Bagley Lakes, just outside of the Baker Ski Area, provided the perfect venue, as you can drive past 4000', straight into a ten-foot snowpack, and on out into enchanting alpine lakes guarded by precipitous cliff walls. South facing slopes were graced with an accumulation of wind-blown powder and perfect runs.
Climbing mountains is a process. Summits provide a goal. Skiing down them provides a purpose. Everything that we seek up high is only of value if we can convert it into a currency that enriches our lives in the valley. The 2017 Mt. Baker Climb-Ski trips brought process and purpose together and brought us all back home to the valley floor refreshed and ready to move forward fully alive. Upward, downward, forward. Alive!
--RMI Guide Kel Rossiter
-640x480.jpg)
Wishing you great climbing weather for the summit bid. I’m hoping that when I wake up in the morning (May 29) I’ll see your personal tracker shows you’re well on your way to the summit.
Take care Tom M and the whole Walter team.
With love
Jacquie
Posted by: Jacquie Byatt on 5/28/2019 at 9:03 pm
Let Dan Koster know that his family has been following your blog and we are excited for the summit bid! Glad you weathered the storm and are pushing on to Camp 17,200’!
Go Team Walter!
-Mark Koster
Posted by: Mark Koster on 5/28/2019 at 12:27 pm
View All Comments