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Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Descend to 14K Camp

June 16, 2017 11:35 pm PST Well everyone, we hung on as long as we could at 17 Camp. We woke to high winds and blowing snow and waited patiently for them to dissipate. They did not. After dragging our feet in vain, still hoping for some workable weather, we finally began our descent back to 14 Camp. Arriving around dinner time, the team wolfed down what could (hopefully!) be our last Mac and Cheese meal for a while and racked out for what will be a few short hours before we head downhill for this season. While we did not stand on top of Denali this year, we are lucky to have tried and happy to be heading home none the worse for wear. It has been a real treat to all climb together and we will be checking in from further down this beautiful mountain. Wish us good luck and fair winds on the last legs of our adventure, it ain't over yet... RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Waiting to hear you all arrived safely at base camp and are flying back to hot showers and a good meal! Praying for you Steve!
Mike and Pat

Posted by: Mike and Pat Lurakis on 6/19/2017 at 9:48 pm

Steve. A disappointment for sure. What do they say about mountains - getting to the top is optional but getting down is mandatory. Denali denied you the top so be safe getting back down. Safe travels .

Posted by: Keith h on 6/19/2017 at 9:15 am


Mt. Rainier: July 12th Summit!

Our teams on the Four Day Summit Climb reached the summit of Mt. Rainier via the Disappointment Cleaver Route early this morning. With this bluebird weather we have on the mountain, the teams were on their descent by 7:20 a.m. They will be back at Camp Muir by approximately 11:30 a.m. and will celebrate their feat on Rainier Basecamp later this afternoon. Jake Beren and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons was on top via the Emmons Glacier Route at 8:00 a.m. His team will stay another night at Camp Schurman and descend off Mt. Rainier tomorrow. Congratulations to today’s teams summitting on both routes!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Awesome accomplishment Tim and Larry-congratulations!  xoxo

Posted by: Kathleen Hanlon on 7/12/2012 at 5:32 pm

What a happy day with this great acheivement for all. Congratulations Kevin! I am so psyched and so proud of you. It all began with Mt Katadhin and Telluride and there you are. Much love to you.

Posted by: PJM on 7/12/2012 at 5:08 pm


Still at Camp One on Cho Oyu

Hey RMI, this is Casey calling in from Camp 1 on Cho Oyu. We woke today to some pretty blustery skies and some snow whirling around so we decided to drag our feet a little to see if the weather would change a bit in our favor. Unfortunately, it did not. It seems like the jet stream is still a bit close to us here. It has made for some pretty miserable climbing conditions. Pretty high winds and snow blowing off of the surface which would make it challenging to see while climbing. The team has been hunkered down here at Camp 1, or as we like to call it, "Camp Fun." We have been stuck in our tents for basically the last 24 hours and trying not to go stir crazy. Everybody's in good spirits and we have our fingers crossed hoping that tomorrow proves to be a little nicer and allows us to sneak up to Camp 2. Everything else is going great and we'll try to touch base again tomorrow.
Leave a Comment For the Team

Torres Del Paine: Team Hikes to Refugio Grey

Saturday, Februdary 12, 2022 2:38 AM PT

We had a windy but dry night at Perros camp. After a quick breakfast we headed up towards John Gardner Pass at 4000’. While it’s not high in elevation the proximity to glaciers and large alpine peaks makes you feel much higher.

The trail winds up through the forest for a bit then begins the ascent over rocky ground. The wind was howling across the Grey glacier as we dropped down the other side of the pass. From one side you see a lush, forested valley and the other is made up of the glaciers that comprise the terminus of the Southern ice fields. This is when the difficulty sets in. The descent from the pass is harmless but once inside the trees the trail is a mess of poorly maintained and eroded steps, toe jamming declines and lots of roots and other obstacles that keep you focused only a few feet in front of you. Your reward for several hours of frustration is spectacular views of the glaciated valley and 3 suspension bridges that will bring out the inner Indiana Jones in anyone.

We got to Refugio Grey in good style but with sore feet and an insatiable thirst. After showers, many tubes of Chilean Pringles like chips, a loaf of bread we had dinner and continued the festivities.

Today we’ll take a day off from walking and enjoy an evening kayak tour on Lago Grey. There’s a lot of calved glacial ice damned near the Refugio which be great to see from water level.

Thanks for following along. 

RMI Guide Mike King & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Awesome Mike!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 2/12/2022 at 2:06 pm


Vinson Massif: Team Moves Uphill

Another day of storm, as predicted and expected. But it seemed as though things were improving gradually and so we thought we might sneak up into position at Low Camp so as to be ready for the good weather. This plan worked well, at first. We packed up and got rolling from basecamp at 1:30 PM. At the big right-angle turn of the Branscomb Glacier we picked up our cache from yesterday and marched on. Travel was actually easier than it had been for the first Vinson team since much of the soft snow blew away. With a good path and calm and even occasionally sunny conditions, the miles flew by. We hit low camp at 9,300 ft right on five hours, at 6:30. That also happened to be the moment that the first big cold and random wave of wind played through. Sure enough, the storm had a sting in its tail. We got hammered by gusts as we carefully built our tents and lit stoves. It all certainly lent drama to our situation, but the team remained in good humor and coped well. Meals were served up in the sleeping tents instead of in the POSH, but that worked out just fine. By 10 PM the wind was behaving much better and it pretty much quit by midnight (although it can still be heard howling through high camp, 3,500 ft directly above us). Obviously we want our share of good and stable weather to begin tomorrow, but if necessary, we can wait right here for whenever the fine stuff shows up. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Denali Expedition: Champion & Team Establish Camp at 14,000’

Thursday, June 2, 2022 - 8:13 pm PT

Today we yet again woke up to, you guessed it, beautiful weather. We packed up camp and made our way up Motorcycle Hill and towards 14,000' Camp. It was a hot, heavy, and challenging day but everyone rolled into 14,000' Camp in good style and we were able to greet JT and the RMI team descending from 17,000' Camp. We spent the last few hours rehydrating, and recovering before rolling into a late dinner of broccoli cheddar rice. Tomorrow is another rest day, everyone is looking forward to a mellow day to recover and start preparing for the fixed lines. We will check back in tomorrow after coffee!

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

We have a new found admiration of you all. Hope you are enjoying this! Looking forward to some wonderful stories.

Posted by: Nick & Annette on 6/5/2022 at 8:59 am

You guys are making this look easy! Keep it up!!

Posted by: Katy Shaw on 6/4/2022 at 7:04 am


Mt. Rainier: May 26th Update

The Four Day and Five Day Summit Climbs reached Ingraham Flats this morning on their summit attempt. The weather has been unsettled, which resulted in unfavorable route conditions. Both teams are safely off the mountain enjoying their program wrap up with their guides.
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

For Lindsay Mann: Wow! congrats to you and all your team members. Bestwishes to reach the summit and return. Love Gt and GN

Posted by: nick and Tllie Medvid on 5/26/2012 at 11:46 pm


Ecuador Volcanoes: Wittmier & Team Refresh Skills on Cayambe

We are settled back into the climber’s hut at Cayambe after a morning of reviewing climbing skills.  Some competitive rounds of Yahtzee will now be followed with afternoon charcuterie and tea.  The team is in good spirits and looking forward to our first alpine start tonight!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Climb Strong Dustin!!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 12/6/2021 at 4:25 am


Denali Expedition: High Winds Keep Van Deventer and Team from Moving to High Camp

Friday May 27, 2022 10:41pm PT

We had a forecast that was promising. It would be blowing up high in the morning but would diminish and that Saturday looked like a promising summit day. So we woke early, and saw what we expected - winds blasting up high but otherwise clear and blue. We are a quick breakfast, broke camp, and were walking before most other teams. As we climbed a huge plunge of snow left 17 and jetted far into the atmosphere. We were glancing at it wondering how quickly the winds really would die. We were sheltered from it and moved from cold in the shade to very warm in the sun as we climbed the fixed lines. As we needed the top, a full roar made itself heard - wind in the other side of the ridge. We stepped around and into it - maybe 15 mph, not enough to knock you around but COLD. It was going to be a full-fledged fight to keep faces unfrozen, so we made the quick decision to turn back and head for 14 Camp. There it was calm and warm.

Tomorrow looks nice and well regroup and rest from today. We have some hope that Sunday into the beginning of the week will give us a shot.

RMI Guides Pete, Erika, Leif, and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

We’re keeping track of all of you every day.  What an amazing experience, just seeing the beauty of your pictures and reading how aware and skillful you have to be with Nature especially the great Denali.  I hope you are learning a bit more about yourselves, too.  Much love and prayers for your
safety and well being.  Barbara/Mom

Posted by: Barbara J Corona on 5/29/2022 at 6:55 pm

Go team! Thanks for sharing your daily updates. I hope the weather calms down so that you can proceed. For the football fans amongst you, Real Madrid won the Champion’s league final yesterday against Liverpool, thanks to their amazing goalkeeper Courtois. Weather is amazing in Barcelona (this is for Albert).

Posted by: Imma on 5/28/2022 at 10:56 pm


Denali Expedition: Champion and Team Complete Back Carry

Monday, May 30, 2022 - 2:40 pm PT

Happy Memorial Day. After a few early mornings, we finally got to "sleep in". Waking up as the sun hit our tents, we were all drinking coffee and making breakfast burritos by 8:30 am. With clear skies above, and the cloud deck sitting right below 11 Camp we loaded up our empty packs and sleds to head downhill into the cloud to grab our cache. After a few short minutes downhill, we filled our packs and sleds back up with the gear and food we had left. The short uphill went by quickly compared to the last few days, and it felt good to shake out the legs before spending the rest of the day resting.

Tomorrow we begin this whole process again, with hopes to cache somewhere above Windy Corner. Until then we will be resting, napping and snacking at camp.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Can you post the itinerary of the proposed climb? Love to envision where you all are, on the glacier. Be safe.

Posted by: Emigh Litch on 5/31/2022 at 1:06 pm

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