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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Descend to 11,000ft for Short Rest

Tuesday, July 5, 2022 - 8:25 pm PT

We pulled out of 14,000' at 10:30 this morning.  Winds were still blowing up high, it certainly wouldn’t have been a summit day, but much of the low cloud had cleared out.  The couple of hours down around Windy Corner, across the Polo Field, down Squirrel and Motorcycle Hills were the usual insane sled rodeo.  The sleds don’t like being heavy or on a side hill and so they flip a lot and we all just try to keep smiling and pulling.  We set up camp -possibly our last- in early afternoon and dove in for naps.  We’ve just eaten dinner now and we’re napping once more.  The plan is to get up in three hours (at 10 PM) and to set off around midnight toward the airstrip on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna.  We’re hoping the surface of the lower glacier freezes up hard and that our timing is just right for taking advantage of that freeze.

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Kilimanjaro: Team Reaches High Camp

Hello again everyone,

The team had a good nights rest last night and today was just a short 3hr hike up to 15’000ft to our high camp. Everyone is excited and maybe just a touch nervous, which is very normal! 

The team has just wrapped up lunch and discussed in great detail the plan for tomorrow’s climb. Everyone knows what we’ll be wearing, what will be in the pack, as well as the schedule. 
Our game plan will be to wake at 10:30pm and have a quick breakfast at 11, then hopefully hit the trail around 11:30pm. It’s a bit busier then I’ve seen previously, hence the slightly early departure tonight. Hopefully that will get us out in front of the majority of the other climbers. 

The team has been doing great thus far and I’m expecting us to reach the summit in 7 to 8hrs if things go according to plan. 

We had another trivia challenge, and one lucky winner will get a phone call from the summit. 
So, everyone back home please keep your phones handy and if you receive a call from a strange number please answer. We are 8+hrs ahead of the east coast time zone. 

Casey Grom and the RMI Summit Team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Keep up the good work everyone, especially my sister! Love seeing the photos.

Posted by: Molly Murawski on 9/17/2022 at 1:41 pm


Everest Base Camp Trek & Island Peak Climb: Training on the Khumbu Glacier

The tents began flapping in the wind mid way through the night last night. Soon snow was peppering the tents, a light patter against the walls as the flakes blew against the tent. Occasionally a faint rumble could be heard over the storm as thunder echoed up from further down the valley. By morning 2 - 3 inches of snow covered Base Camp and the winds continued to blow light flurries of snow through camp. Sitting around the table we could hear the roar of the winds high above blowing up the Khumbu Valley and through Lho La Pass into Tibet. The sun poked through on occasion, only to be obscured again by the quickly moving clouds. It was a nice morning to sit in the dining tent and enjoy a second cup of tea and the fresh coffee we brewed up. By mid morning the weather calmed a bit and we geared up, donning our climbing boots, crampons, harnesses, and helmets and set off from Base Camp into the Khumbu Glacier for some technical training in order to prepare for our upcoming climb of Island Peak. The Khumbu Glacier is a wild looking glacier here at Base Camp: the weight of the glacier flowing down from the Ice fall causes the surface to buckle upwards in large pressure ridges - fins of ice that run horizontally across the glacier, sometimes 20 - 30' high. Between the pressure ridges the surface has melted and refrozen into large expanses of flat ice. Walking into the glacier, we wound our way between the fins of ice, getting comfortable walking with crampons on the firm glacial ice. Once everyone was comfortable moving across the uneven terrain with our crampons, we headed over to the fixed practice ropes that Kala, our lead Sherpa, and I put up this morning. Using the side of one of the towering pressure ridges, we climbed up and down its side practicing using our ascenders on the 50 degree ice, refining our transitions past anchors points, and then rappelling back down. The team quickly took to the techniques and soon all were moving fluidly up and back down. As we practiced the winds and snow picked up again and we found our way back out of the glacier and to camp where we got out of the elements. We spent the rest of the afternoon lounging here at Base Camp, playing cards in the dining tent and reading. The weather is still blustery but seems to be settling out. We are all hoping for clear skies for our hike back down the valley to Pheriche tomorrow. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

On The Map

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Hey Mom and Dad,

I’m so proud of y’all. I have uploaded the pictures from the blog to facebook and there have been so many people amazed with what y’all are doing. I hope you know that you have so much support and praise from so many people. You are officially the coolest parents I know :) I’m so excited to see you in less than 2 weeks!! I love you so much! Love, Chelsea.

Posted by: Chelsea on 4/8/2011 at 11:15 am

Mark- I hope you had a great birthday!  The cake looks good as does the beard~

Best to you and Karen.

Sean

Posted by: Sean W on 4/4/2011 at 9:02 am


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Carry Gear Around Windy Corner

Saturday, June 25, 2022 - 10:04 pm PT

We did another 5 AM wake up.  It was cool in the morning shadows, but not uncomfortably so.   Breakfast fortified us for a 7 AM departure up the steep Motorcycle Hill.  To finally be in crampons rather than snowshoes felt great.  Our first rest break -midway up Squirrel Hill- gave us brand new views of the Peters Glacier and Denali’s Northwest Buttress, in addition to ever closer views of the formidable granite forming the end of the West Buttress.  We finished off Squirrel and came onto the “Polo Field” below the end of the Buttress.  One more pull got us to the saddle below Windy Corner where we took a break before tackling the corner itself.  The Corner is always exciting, traversing steep slopes with huge chunks of granite just above us and crevasses just below… all while trying not to stare too long at the Kahiltna Glacier far below, or at Mount Hunter and Mount Foraker in all their glory.  Finishing the Corner leaves one looking straight at Denali’s South Peak for the first time.  We cached food and fuel just beyond the corner, spending about 50 minutes there at 13,500 ft before starting down.  We actually walked down into a layer of wildfire smoke that had moved in.  Luckily the smoke didn’t stick around for too long.  We were back at camp at 1:30 PM and diving into the tents shortly afterward to get out of the intense high altitude sun. 

It was a good day of climbing and we’ve had a few now… so tomorrow looks good for a rest day to solidify our acclimatization before moving up. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

What an adventure!!!  Go, team, go!  Cheering each and every one of you on, especially Jim!  Such an amazing experience!

Posted by: Deborah Karmozyn on 6/26/2022 at 1:26 pm


Vinson Massif: Dave & Team Carry to High Camp

It is a quarter after one in the morning in the Ellsworth Mountains of Antarctica. We made our carry of summit supplies to Vinson high camp today. It all went quite well. We made it up there in under six hours, arriving just before 8 PM. Two-and-a-half hours later we were back down the fixed ropes and thirty-five hundred feet lower in camp one. These are late days, but we are simply trying to use the best sun of the day. In such cold temperatures it doesn't make sense to do otherwise. Our storm is gone, but there is still a lot of high cloud in the area. We were warm enough going up the fixed ropes but met with a nagging four mile per hour breeze on the less steep slopes before high camp and that allowed us to fully appreciate the ambient temperature (forecast to be -24 C today with about -35 C at the summit) It was all good training for the bigger and harder days which will follow. Climbing out of the Branscomb valley, the team got to look out upon the endless world of ice to our west today. It is a stunning and magnificent view, and virtually impossible to tell where ice ends and sky begins. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Fantastic Li! You’re getting closer & closer! Love Dean

Posted by: Dean on 12/9/2011 at 6:11 am


Mt. Rainier: July 22nd 100% of the Team on Top!

The Four Day Climb of Mt. Rainier reached the 14,410' summit at 7:20 am today. James Bealer, RMI's lead guide for the climb reported a great day of climbing. The heavy marine layer that is sitting around 8,000' was no problem for the team. They climb in near perfect conditions, light winds, clear skies and warm temperatures, and everyone made it to the top!! The team started their descent from the summit at 8:27 am and are in route to Camp Muir.

Congratulations team! 

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Mt. Rainier: July 1st Summit!

The Mt. Rainier Four Day Summit Climbs led by Dan Windham and Shaun Sears reached the summit this morning in bluebird conditions. The cloud layer was at 9,000’ and the summit temperature was 25 degrees with light winds. What a spectacular day on the upper mountain! Walter Hailes is leading the Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise. They start out on the mountain today and will spend the next five days learning mountaineering skills and will conclude their week with a summit attempt.
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Ryan;

Can’t wait to hear the stories and see the photos.  What a great accomplishment!!  Best regards, Clay

Posted by: Clay Renn on 7/2/2012 at 9:14 am

for Wendell & Jason…..good luck!

Posted by: brenda on 7/2/2012 at 5:35 am


Mt. Baker: Burns & Team Summit via the Easton Glacier

RMI Guides Seth Burns, Josh Geiser and Michael Murray reached the summit of Mt. Baker today with 100% of their team.  Seth reported a nice sunrise climb this morning via the Easton Glacier.  The team will return to camp for their final night on the mountain.  Tomorrow they will walk out to the trailhead and conclude their program.

Congratulations to the team!

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Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team Enjoys St. Petersburg City Tour

Hi, Today we fully immersed ourselves in the culture and history of St. Petersburg. After an incredible breakfast at our hotel, we hit the streets to begin our city tour. Our city guide, Olga, led us through the maze of streets and canals to all the best churches, museums and cathedrals in the city. We tried our best to keep up with all the dates and facts that she knew by heart, but after several hours, we had to concede that it was a losing proposition. There is simply just way too much to see and learn. By the time we toured Saint Isaac's Cathedral, the fourth largest cathedral in the world, we were ready to take a break. We met up for an early dinner and then with a second wind, we finished the day with a boat tour of the canals and Neva River. The city is even more beautiful from the water and the perfect view in which to remember this city. Sadly, this adventure comes to an end tomorrow as we go our separate ways and travel back home. We have had a great time and hope you have enjoyed following along as we traveled and climbed our way through Russia. Best regards, RMI Guides Jeff Martin, Pete Van Deventer, and team
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Denali Expedition: Smith and Team Move to 17k Camp

Thursday, June 23, 2022 7:28 pm PDT

What a day, what a day!

The weather was a little up and down but all things considered allowed us to move to 17k camp. It is a burly move. The morning started we suspect clouds but they soon gave way to mostly clear skies. Of course by time we started to walking the clouds came back and made for some tough seeing. Buy we made it to the fix lines and were greeted by a snowy slope making for better walking. We cruised the fixed lines, dug up our cache at 16,400 and continues our journey up. More fix line bring us to Washburn's thumb and on the buttress ridge. It is an amazing walk with amazing exposure. One last snow slope dips us into our new home. Life isn't easy up here but we make strong work setting up camp and making water. Dinner is currently being served, scrumptious dehydrated Mountain House. We are working on relaxing and recovering for tomorrow. Tomorrow is going to be our big day. The weather looks good enough and is our opportunity before the winds pick up and shut the door on us.

Wish us luck!!

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Go team, go! Sending all the good vibes for a wonderful summit.

Posted by: Mama J on 6/24/2022 at 7:49 pm

Good luck to you all!  You are almost there!  Sending positive energy your way!!!
IngaLisa’s Mom

Posted by: Irene Wickstrom on 6/24/2022 at 6:44 pm

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