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Posted by: JM Gorum, JT Schmitt, Dustin Wittmier
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,800'
Wednesday, May 22, 2019, 11:30 PM PT
Well, we are on the Kahiltna Glacier. We have begun the climb! We flew on early this morning with perfect weather, a smooth ride, and amazing views of the Alaska range. After landing, we consolidated and re-organized our gear, picked up fuel from base camp, rigged our sleds, and started walking. After about five hours of travel time, we arrived at 7800 feet, our first camp on the Kahiltna. After setting up tents and building a kitchen we moved into an early dinner. We’re going to try to wake up a little on the early side tomorrow. Our plan is to carry a load up to 10,000 feet. Hopefully, with an early start, we can be back down in camp hiding from the sun during the hottest part of the day. Everyone did really well today despite the warm temps and heavy loads. We’ll check back in tomorrow afternoon.
RMI Guides JM Gorum, JT Schmitt and Dustin Wittmier
On The Map
Posted by: Dave Hahn
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
It was tough to tell the difference this morning... another cloudy, snowy start without the benefit of sun. But things began to clear by mid morning. There was that same transformation when people could again see horizons and mountains and when they could walk from tent to tent without pulling on hoods and big gloves. Union Glacier weather was coming around, but apparently it was coming around more slowly in Punta Arenas because the Ilyushin decision was being looked at on an hour to hour basis. In camp we carried on -attending a lecture on Antarctic Ice, snow and glaciers. By late afternoon, winds in Union Camp had come up, but they must have dropped in Patagonia because the flight took off at 5:30 PM. It should be here at 10 PM -in about 20 min. We spent a pleasant evening with the marathon folks, remembering and commemorating the big race. They are all packed and ready to be moving again and we are hanging tough and set to be on the following flight.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
Today was another rest day with a top notch breakfast donated from our fellow RMI team Mike Walter who is currently on the way down to the airstrip. The breakfast quesadilla extravaganza started with snow and ended with heavy snow. We said good bye to Walter team and are looking forward to some training in the next few hours to dial in our technique for the next stage of our climb to carry supplies for our high camp. This will set the stage for our summit push when the weather allows. For now we will out chill the snow and let you know how our carry turns out tomorrow! We are wishing good luck to the Van Deventer and Hailes teams as they are pushing to high camp today for their summit bid!
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
On The Map
Dave and Team! Keep it up! Thinking of you and praying for clear blue skies!
Posted by: Paul on 6/9/2018 at 5:56 am
Dave and team, thinking of you guys and hoping the weather clears and you get some clear, calm skies. Couldn’t quite see the mountain from the office, but had a great view of the sleeping lady this afternoon. Pray for us as we embark a hike to Thunderbird Falls with the kids on Sunday - 2 miles/100 feet elevation gain round trip.
Much love,
B
Posted by: Beth on 6/8/2018 at 9:03 pm
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Gokyo Trek
Namaste from Gokyo!
We have arrived to the namesake of our trip, a small Sherpa village a stone's throw from Tibet. We had been out of touch the last couple days, on our way up from Thame to Renjo Pass, where we felt the remoteness of our whereabouts. Those two days were filled with great sightings of yak karkas (farms) Kongmas (a high altitud bird endemic of the area), but most definitely, the high peaks that reign above the area. We culminated this morning with the climb up Renjo La Pass, which provided jaw dropping views of Everest, Lhotse and Makalu; we had to take a 1.5h break at its 5,400m of elevation to sink it all in... we just couldn't get enough! The feeling of the effort being so worth it took over the entire group.
We then descended towards the turquoise waters of Gokyo lake and made it into our lodge, where we'll be for the next two nights. Tired but happy, we're looking up valley towards another Himalayan giant, Cho Oyu, who's base camp we'll visit tomorrow. Now, it's time to enjoy some dud chai (milk tea).
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team.
Such a studly pic of the peaks in the background and the raven in the foreground!
Better keep an eye on those lunches or those winged critters will get them for sure.
Have fun.
Art
Posted by: Art Muir on 10/26/2017 at 8:52 am
Posted by: Robby Young, Steve Gately
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 14,200'
Hello from 14,200'!
Life is good here in the Peruvian Andes. Acclimatization and technical training were the name of the game today. After a good night's rest, a pancake breakfast, and some warm morning sun, we dove right into knots and hitches; the foundation for some of the technical systems we'll learn later on. Chicken soup and beat+potato salad were a welcomed lunch break before a short hike to the top of the moraine at 15,200'. The views didn't disappoint. From our perch we could see all the real time glaciation on Tocllaraju, as well as our future route up Urus Este. We're back in camp awaiting what is surely to be an incredible dinner spread in our dining tent. Life is pure, simple, and beautiful here in Peru, and our entire team is feeling great. We'll update you tomorrow from the Ishinca Glacier during our on-snow training day. Until then, hasta luego!
RMI Guide Robby Young and team
Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, JT Schmitt
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 348'
May 19, 2017
The rain fell as we debarked from the plane after touching down at Anchorage International Airport. With three hours before meeting the team Christina, JT and I reviewed paperwork and plans for the trip.
Then, one by one folks started showing up, with everyone gathered well before our 4:30 departure. A good sign of things you come.
We had plenty of time to get to know each other while awaiting our shuttle to Talkeetna and I was struck by the ease of conversation between everyone right from the start.
Having climbed with most everyone already it was fun to catch up with folks. By dinner time the mood was even looser as we enjoyed a nice meal at the West Rib.
Most of the team showed restraint in passing up calls to have 'one' at the world famous Fairview Inn, but for those of us who showed weakness and entered those decadent halls, a proper tradition was upheld. The music wasn't half bad either.
It's now time for some rest as tomorrow promises to be quite busy as we prepare for our flight on to the mountain on Sunday. I'm really looking forward to getting that one step closer to the climb we've all been waiting for for so long.
Goodnight from Talkeetna, elevation 300'.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Adam Knoff, Robby Young
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Shishapangma
Elevation: 18,400'
Good evening from Shishapangma Base Camp! What a day... beautiful blue skies, no winds and a bright sun seemed like the prize we were awarded for yesterday's journey on not-such-fun conditions. A somewhat restless night (it was our first of many nights at 5,600m) gave way to excitement building up as our Sherpa team started to get our puja altar together for a nice morning ceremony. Climbing in the Himalaya without an offering or asking permission to the divine, is considered a sacrilege. The rest of the day was dedicated to getting acquainted at Base Camp, organizing gear, and receiving the second yak load (we have so much gear, that some of our kit had to wait yesterday.) We're heading to dinner as we speak. Tomorrow we're taking a walk to the so called "crampon point" or Depot Camp, in order to cache some gear and continue to build on our acclimatization process. Everyone is doing well, and eager to start climbing!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
Can’t wait to hear about the ceremony. Well, for sure, you “aren’t in Kansas anymore”!!
Posted by: Betty (Art's sister) on 9/13/2016 at 5:07 am
Go, Galina, go!
Happy Acclimatization to all of the team members!
Posted by: Zhanar on 9/13/2016 at 2:27 am
Posted by: Casey Grom, Billy Nugent
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside
Elevation: 12,000'
Pree-vēt!
Things are good here at Garabashi Hut and the team is excited for tonight! We did a little prep for tomorrow by reviewing a few climb techniques and then rested the remainder of the day. Our cook, Dasha, has done a great job of filling our bellies with plenty of good ol' home cooked Russian food.
Everything is set and if the weather continues to hold we'll be up at 2:00 a.m. After a quick breakfast, we'll hop on the snowcat to give us a bump a little further up the mountain. It will shorten our climb a little and increase our chance of reaching the highest point in Europe.
That's all for now. Keep your fingers crossed for us!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
On The Map
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Jambo! We have just pulled into High Camp. Our tent sites are on the low side of camp so I'm calling the elevation 14,900'. The group did great again today. We have all been moving as one cohesive unit which will make the climb tonight go really smooth.
Our weather has taken a turn for the better with a clear night last night and an absolutely perfect morning. The team got a great view of the upper slopes of Kili at breakfast this morning and it looked so good they said, "If it was a President it would be Baber-ham Lincoln."
They really thought that joke was funny, I think it's the altitude kicking in.
We are up here with plenty of time to rest, fuel up and prepare for the long climb to the summit tonight. The next time I check in will be from up top so wish us luck!
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
On The Map
Posted by: Billy Nugent, Katrina Bloemsma
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 16,200'
Hi all,
Billy here checking in from Aconcagua Camp 1 after a smooth move on up from basecamp. We enjoyed sunny skies and a bit of light breeze, all in all a perfect day to head up the hill. After arriving mid afternoon we took our time settling in. We had to move our cache over to our actual campsite, setup tents and get moved in. Sometime after we had set up camp the notorious Camp 1 creek began to flow. This made for a little engineering project redirecting the flow of water around our tents and with just a little bit of effort we've managed to stay dry... So far anyway. Camp is a bit crowded with several teams so good tent spots are at a premium. We just scarfed a toretellini dinner and are crawling in for the night, all of us a bit tired but no worse for the wear.
Nighty night.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
On The Map
Good luck Dad,
Love,
Sam
Posted by: Sam Falkenhagen on 1/20/2016 at 11:58 am
Jake,
Great that things are going smoothly. Looks fantastic from up there. Good luck to the team and with weather the rest of the way. Look forward in seeing Jake with hair..LOL
Cheers from The guys at Sound Beverage.
David
Posted by: David Bruce on 1/20/2016 at 7:49 am
Excited and happy for the team’s smooth start! Appreciate and look forward to the updates! Positive thoughts and prayers for all! We love you B!
Posted by: Jennifer Adams on 5/24/2019 at 10:31 pm
Praying for reasonable weather. Sending all kinds of love, especially to JT!
Posted by: Wendy Emmer on 5/24/2019 at 6:45 am
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