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After a relaxing stay at the hacienda Chilcabamba, we are all packed up and heading for
Cotopaxi, the stunning 19,347’ stratovolcano that is our main climbing objective. We will drive a dirt road that winds through Cotopaxi National Park to an altitude above 15,000’. A 45-minute hike will lead to the climbers’ hut, which sits near the toe of the glacier just shy of 16,000’. The goal of today is to arrive at such high altitude accommodations feeling good, resting, and adjusting to the altitude. Tomorrow we will hike to the Glacier and review the climbing techniques we will employ on the climb the following morning.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Monday, May 28, 2018 - 11:49 PM PT
Hello all, and happy Memorial Day! Everyone is doing quite well adjusting to life on the
Kahiltna Glacier. There is a bit of basketball withdrawal going on, but besides that everyone seems happy. This morning we enjoyed a leisurely bagel and cream cheese breakfast, and packed up a bunch of our things to cache up higher on the mountain. The weather was perfect for us today. If anything it was a bit warm, but we'll take all the warmth we can get at this point. Skies were mostly clear, and the views looking back down the Kahiltna went on for miles. The team made quick work of the carry, and we made it back to camp at 7,200 well before dinner time. With a lot of our gear stashed above us, we are in great shape to move camp higher tomorrow. We'll let you know how it goes. Everyone sends their best!
RMI Guide Walter Hailes
On The Map
Today was not going to be our day, because when it snows on Ixtaccihuatl there is apparently thunder and lightning. We spent a few hours at high camp with electrical storms pulsing through, while we held tight yesterday afternoon. Around 1 am there were clear skies all around and no wind to speak of. After climbing up the
‘knees’ of Ixta we stared out into a developing storm near La Malinche (our day hike from Day 2). watching the storm continue to spread out among the horizon, the guides decided that descending to camp and packing up would be the best call.
Even though we only had 1,500 vertical feet to climb the linear distance was too long to justify staying on the ridge, should the storm pick up steam.
With a slow descent through the ‘knees’ due to frozen scree and snow we arrived back in camp, packed up and headed to the trail head. As with most decisions, there is a moment of regret and asking yourself if you made the right call. Our walk down hill was sunny and bluebird that is until it wasn’t and the billowing dark clouds overtook the summit ridge.
We are headed to Puebla for the evening and tomorrow we will get to explore the historic city center. After a couple nights sleep in nice beds we’ll head out for our Orizaba climb, the third highest peak in North America. While a little disappointed, everyone is glad to not be in an electrical storm and is doing well.
RMI Guides Mike King & Jenny Konway
At some point in the early morning hours, the clouds cleared away, the full moon and stars came out, along with the great volcanic cone of Kibo,
Kilimanjaro's central peak. First light was our first sighting of the mountain we've been climbing. All were thrilled to see it, but it must be admitted that some were a little intimidated by the steep icy mountain flanks rising into the sky. We ate our breakfast and got walking toward the peak at about 8 AM. The walking was pretty easy compared to the tricky trails we'd become accustomed to, but it was taking us steadily higher. Within a few hours of marching through the high desert vegetation, we were breaking altitude records. In fact, by our high point of the day, the Lava Tower, at 15,200 ft, we'd crushed records for Cory, Jen, Don, Syd, Carol, Naomi and Curt. Only Sarah and Martha had been to greater altitude. Cumulus clouds formed up with the heat of the day to rob us of some views, but generally, we were blessed with a fine, calm and dry day for hiking. We worked our way down into the Barranco Valley-back down into the garden of giant Senecios and Lobelias. We reached camp at 13,000 ft by three o'clock. Our staff of porters, cooks, camp boys, waiters and guides seemed pleased with our performance. A few men began clapping, and within minutes, fifty of our best mountain friends were clapping, dancing and singing. Eventually, we all joined in -some of the team managing to get down and shake it while still wearing packs. Not bad after a seven-hour hike and a trip to new heights.
We rested away the afternoon, listening to stories and Swahili at the foot of the Great Barranco Wall.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Summit!
Today the team stood on the highest point of Europe. I have to admit we were pretty lucky with the weather, as we had a little snowstorm pass through last night leaving a nice dusting. The team did a fantastic job of taking care of themselves and climbed incredibly well. With pretty decent weather we could see much of the massive Caucasus mountain range from the summit.
Once we descended back to the saddle between the two summits that
Mt. Elbrus has (West and East), four of us decided to climb up to the other summit while the rest of the team descended safely back to camp. It only added an additional one and a half hours, so not too bad, especially since the weather was good.
After everyone returned to camp, we had a quick lunch and then packed up to head down valley to our hotel at the base of the mountain. Everyone is high spirits and smelling great!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and a happy, freshly showered crew
On The Map
Our last night at Las Lenas we didn't use tents. After our asado we simply rolled pads out onto the ground and spent the night under the stars as they say. With the moon unable to be seen that night the star show was one of the best I've seen. The next morning we trekked the last four hours out of the Vacas Valley back to Los Penitentes. We meet the second
RMI Expedition lead by Mike King and JM Gorum getting their gear prepared for the walk into the Vacas Valley the following day. We stopped at the Estancia de Elias and ordered 40 Empanadas to go for the remainder of our drive back to Mendoza. Once we arrived to the hotel we all split, took the famed first shower after a long expedition and met in the hotel lobby at 8:30 to walk to dinner. We made reservations at a famous Italian restaurant in the city called Francesco's. The owner of the establishment Maria Teresa, pushing into her 90's still works at the restaurant making pasta from scratch. We all enjoyed a magnificent dinner and celebrated a wonderful and safe trip into the heart of the Andes and the
roof of South America. This will be the last blog of the trip. Thanks to everyone for following along. We had an amazing group of climbers and I look forward to hopefully climbing with all of them again in the future. Muchas Gracias, hasta luego!
RMI Guide Steve Gately
When the late morning sun hit Low Camp, we looked up and saw that we didn't actually want to be up high today. The forecaster got it right and a storm was easing onto the
Vinson Massif. It wasn't too bad at first, but we knew that one of the teams we'd been climbing alongside of had been forced to turn back from a summit attempt. Our day down low was spent in getting ready for a blow. The gang built strong snow walls and dug in. The storm hit Low Camp with surprising intensity around six in the evening. Winds got up to thirty and forty miles an hour and have stayed there (with higher gusts) for hours -it is midnight now. We're tucked in now and listening to the roar. We are hoping our high camp friends are behind big fat snow and ice walls. We are happier to be down here for this event. Yesterday's mishap now seems like a blessing in disguise.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
After a nice breakfast at the Dik Dik Lodge, we sent a few final emails and we were off to
climb Kilimanjaro. A couple hours later, after a stop at the market and registering with the National Park it was time to start the climb. We left the cultivation zone behind and traded it in for a lush cloud forest. The team climbed well to our next zone the Heather and Moorland. We are camped here at 10,000' with an outstanding view of the mountain and incredible weather. It is time to crawl in to the tents and get some rest before the next challenge tomorrow. The team is doing well and we will continue to check in as we ascend Kilimanjaro.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
On The Map
June 11, 2016 - 11:11 pm PT
Today was a delight. We slept in a little, enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and hit up some training. The
fixed lines loom a thousand feet above us and we prepared ourselves for them with a simulation above camp. We duplicated the transitions with ascenders until the team became certified ascender ninjas. We are ready to tackle them, I only hope they are ready for us.
After our training we rested for a bit and then fortified camp. The team busted out walls and worked very well together on the parapets and ramparts that will secure our castle while we are crusading higher. Should the weather hold we will try to establish a cache for the upper upper mountain. We'll let you know how it all goes tomorrow. Sleep well friends.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
Today we awoke to blue sky's and light wind, coffee in bed followed by a fantastic breakfast. After breaking camp we helped load the donkeys and continued hiking up the beautiful Santa Cruze valley. With every step more sunning mountain seemed to reveal themselves, truly an awe inspiring place. After a couple hours of hiking we turned north and climbed some switchbacks before sauntering into our Base Camp at 14,200'. We all got our first look at
Alpamayo, one of the most beautiful peaks I have ever seen. Shortly after arriving to our Base Camp lunch was served, soup and pasta, quite tasty. The rest of the afternoon was spent relaxing and bathing in the river.
The team is doing very well and we are all excited to be here.
Thanks for following along with us
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Alpamayo team
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Awesome!! Romary crew is sending positive mojo your way. It’s a privilege to be on the Kahiltna…was there 20 years ago this month. Keep grinding and enjoy every step. When things get tough, just “embrace the suck.”
Posted by: Tom Romary on 5/30/2018 at 6:31 am
Straub clan has their eyes on you…safe climbing & sunshine, amigos!
Posted by: Straub(s) on 5/29/2018 at 10:17 pm
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