Our first clue that things had changed was that it was COLD this morning. Still cozied in our sleeping bags, we peeked out of the tent, and couldn't find a cloud in the sky anywhere. Psyched to have a break from the rain, we layered up and headed out to fire up breakfast and get our train rolling uphill.
The climbing above Camp 1 follows a broad glacial shoulder almost straight up to Lenz Rocks above us. As fast as we can tell, most Russian climbers don't believe in switchbacks. There is a wide trail punched into the snow, but it goes straight up. We made some switchbacks of our own, cruising up to our next camp in style, where we deposited a load of food and a bit of fuel, before returning. The downhill trail couldn't be any better for making good time, and quickly we were back at our tents at 12,300'. The rain even stayed away for us to have a nice dinner outside together, and take some night shots of the moon rising over Elbrus' twin summits.
If all goes well, we'll pack up camp tomorrow to move to Lenz for the night and start our summit bid. The next couple of days should be busy!
Best from way up here,
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, JM Gorum and team
May 19, 2016 - 10:28 pm PT
We hung out around camp again today, as the current weather nor the forecast for Denali are conducive to going higher right now. We spent a large part of the day building snow walls around our camp at 14,000' to protect against wind.
Our plan for tomorrow is similar to today, as we ride out this storm and hope for better weather in a few days.
We'll check in again tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Mike Walter and Pete Van Deventer turned at Disappointment Cleaver due to fresh snow on the route with high avalanche conditions. The teams have left Camp Muir and are en route to Paradise.
Hey, this is JJ Justman. We are checking in from Karanga Camp here at 13,000+ feet on Kilimanjaro with Team Orlando. We're doing great. We're heading to high camp tomorrow. We had a beautiful day of climbing the Barranco Wall, which was pretty exciting. Actually the team is bummed that some of the rock scrambling and a little exposure is over, but everyone is feeling great!
RMI Guide JJ Justman
June 11, 2015 10:02pm
With unsettled weather upon us we slept in this morning had a nice brunch and spent the afternoon reviewing some technical skills. We discussed some of the techniques we will use and practiced removing and stowing various types of gear as we climb. The team is anxious to get climbing but there is nothing we can do until the weather improves. For now we are enjoying long meals, funny stories, and some good naps. That's all for now. Thanks for following along and keep your fingers crossed for some good weather up here on Denali.
RMI Guides Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens & Team
Hi Kim & Co.!!! I am no Al Roker but surely things must be getting better in your neck of the woods!!! Fingers crossed that the snow is done for the time being!!! Btw Sophia is auditioning for the role of Flounder on Monday (Ariel’s sidekick)...
Hugs &kisses;
Ron the Potato, Jerome, Adam Richman, Mark Klein & me
Posted by: Lora on 6/12/2015 at 7:30 pm
Hi Kim, I hope there is a dramatic improvement in the weather so that you & the team can move upward! Hopefully, tomorrow (Saturday) will be the “big’ day where the snow will stop,the sun will shine & the winds will be calm!!! I am sending positive weather vibes your way! Travel safe & stay well! Love, Dad
May 10, 2014 10:37 pm PT
The good weather persists in the Alaska Range! We were fortunate to spend a big chunk of time today training under clear skies and bright rays. By the end of the afternoon, everyone was dialed on crevasse rescue and amped to move camp up the glacier tomorrow. Aside from our attempt in Radio Tower most of our time so far has been focused on training and lectures on mountain related topics. Now it is time to put our training into action and see if the mountains let us get a summit.
RMI Guides Leon Davis & Eric Frank
I’m thrilled to announce that 100% of team Ecuador made it to the summit of Cotopaxi this morning. As I mentioned yesterday the mountain got whipped up into a mood which made the prospect of summitting today fairly uncertain. But like I also said, you never know what can happen.
Keeping this in mind I poked my head out of the hut at 11:45 last night and was amazed to see stars glimmering in the clear sky. This at least solved the moisture problem but the wind still rattled the walls and made roofs squeal, which we aptly named Godzilla.
Once we motivated and committed to climbing, things just worked. Our local guides and RMI guides had a bit of differing ideas about pace, which is why there is no group photo, but all in all the climb was superb.
Because we got separated a bit, some climbers made it back to the hut a good hour before the last but by the end, everyone was covered in thick rime ice. The good weather again lasted only long enough for us to get up and down before turning to a wet blowing soaker we are happy to be sheltered from.
Now we are packing up and getting ready to once again load the magic bus and head down to the lowlands for our celebration meal and nap.
Tomorrow is a well earned rest day.
Before I close this I would like to wish happy birthday to the wonderful lady in my life. These beautiful summits remind me of you.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
Wow! It's was one of the hottest days above 18,000'! We had 4 inches of snow starting yesterday evening that tapered off by 9 pm. The 1,600 vertical feet to high camp took us up a snowy moraine and into a series of switchbacks that terminate below a complex of white rock towers. The camp is named after the fierce winds that plague this part of the mountain...Camp Cholera. We could have used a fraction of that wind today to cool down the Team and maybe prevent the roofs of our mouths from getting sunburned due to the heavy panting brought on by altitude and heat.
The Team got in a small cache and now comes the difficult decision of when to attempt the summit. The weather models are showing increasing winds on Saturday with Sunday winds being high enough that maintaining camp will be difficult. Our current plan is to move up Friday but a move tomorrow is not out of the question in favor of lighter winds and snow and hopefully higher summit success. It's snowing again, we've been able to set out watches by the afternoon snow fall.
Regardless of what happens, the effort today has the guides feeling optimistic for the Team to boot up and meet the challenge. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King & Team
Virg - talked to Dad, Nora & Joe and we are all cheering you and the team on. I hope things went well today. Joe went snowboarding, Nora printed out W’2s, Dad went to Harbor Freight and I read one of the books you got me for Christmas. Well l’m sure your day was more exciting. Love, Mom❤️
Posted by: Barbara(mom) on 1/11/2018 at 4:02 pm
So glad to hear you’ve made a carry to the high camp! I’m sure you’re anxious to keep moving higher. We can’t wait to hear the tales from the trail. Much love and stay safe!
We dropped down from our high camp on Mt. Shuksan last night to avoid the wildfire smoke, and made our final walk out easier. An open bivy with breathtaking views of the mountain and Lake Anne were our reward. We enjoyed them in the fading light while eating dinner. A first-light start got us back to the car early enough to hit a local coffee shop for lattes on the way down valley.
This last week of climbing has been phenomenal. The perfect weather and excellent conditions in the mountains came together for an unforgettable experience. Here are some photos of our best moments...
RMI Guide Eric Frank
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir May 28 - 2 June, 2017 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today! RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Paul Rachele led their teams to Camp Muir on Monday and have been working on mountaineering skills. Due to the weather forecast they opted to make their summit attempt today but they will remain at Camp Muir until Friday where they will continue to train.
Congratulations to today's Seminar Teams!
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Sorry for the bad luck. I was at same spot in 2012 and had to turn back due to snow danger. The mountain will be there tomorrow.
Posted by: john newland on 9/4/2015 at 7:35 am
Bummer…Happy Labor Day Wknd…Walter-o
90 F + Hot + Humid + Storms Indiana
As you have plenty - Fwd Snow + Ice
Posted by: Walter Glover on 9/4/2015 at 6:28 am
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