May 26, 2016 - 10:13 pm PT
Eggs,bacon, hash browns and of course the hot drink this team raves about, hot cider, started our day on the right foot. Three hours after breakfast we were back in camp with our cache from 10,000'.
Some review of ice axe arrest and cramponing after lunch has prepared us for tomorrow's big climb to bring a cache up to 13,500'. This is where the climbing begins, and we're really looking forward to it.
The afternoon was spent relaxing in the tents, a much needed and appreciated respite from the hard work everyone has been doing to this point.
Spirits are high as we get off the Kahiltna Glacier and start getting close to camp at 14,200'.
Let's hope it's not too windy for us on our climb around Windy Corner tomorrow.
RMI Guides Brent, Christina, Chris and the team
May 25, 2016 - 11:47 p.m. PDT
The morning sun never showed at all, rather than views of "The Great One," all we saw was the inside of a ping pong ball.
Blowing snow and midday brunch, spinach and egg burritos took us well past lunch.
Life at 14 is cut and dry, we've prepped, we've cached, and we're ready to fly.
Our eyes are fixed on the buttress above, we were surprised this evening by a tent dwelling dove.
Coming high pressure may not be our best friend, but at least we'll have some views again.
Toasted pop tarts keep our spirits light, we hope the summit is soon in our sights.
~~A poetic collaboration of RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, and Robby Young
Hello, This is Jake calling in from the summit of Ixta. The entire team is sitting on top watching the sunrise on a beautiful morning. We have light winds and temps are pretty pleasant. We did a great job today, and everybody climbed super strong [call lost].
RMI Guide Jake Beren
RMI Guide Jake Beren calls from the summit of Ixtaccihuatl.
Sunday, May 12, 2019
Well, it was another day of waiting in Talkeetna for the weather to improve enough to fly into Kahiltna Base Camp. The FAA webcams looked socked in all day, but every once in a while some clearings would emerge. Finally, around 3 pm, we decided to round up the troops and don our climbing clothes and boots to be ready to board if a flight was possible. After a recon report from another K2 airplane on a scenic flight confirmed that it looked like we could land at Base Camp, we boarded the two Turbo Prop Otters and launched for the Alaska Range. A beautiful flight with partly cloudy skies took us all the way to Base Camp …but a small but thick cloud hung over the landing strip. We held in a waiting pattern for as long as we could and the conditions did not improve. Finally we regained our elevation and pointed back south for Talkeetna. An awesome flight, and oh-so-close. We’ll try again early tomorrow, with a more promising forecast.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
The Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Jess Matthews reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. Jess reported moderate winds and clear skies on the upper mountain. The teams left the crater rim at 7:36 am and are making their way back to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's teams!
It was a perfect day for climbing, right from the start at Shira Camp. Not too cold and not too hot, and not much to worry about from clouds and squalls. We set out walking directly toward Kibo, Kilimanjaro’s central peak, at 8 AM. The terrain was a good deal less steep and the trail less confining than what we’d encountered yesterday. We worked up through high desert vegetation on a gently sloping plateau of lava boulders. Within a few hours, we’d busted all-time altitude records for Darcy, Lory Beth, Kathy, Jon, Jensen, Kevin, Melanie, Logan, Phillip and Emily. By noon we hit our high point for the day, the Lava Tower at 15,200 ft, and the weather stayed fine as we picnicked and watched the white necked ravens performing elaborate aerobatic maneuvers in the thin air. At this point, we’d reached the base of Kibo and the cliffs and ice fields towered 4000 vertical feet over us. As we headed down into the valleys below Kibo’s southern flanks, the afternoon clouds formed up but didn’t bother us much. We dropped back down into gardens of giant senecios and lobelias as we closed in on Barranco Camp at 13,000 ft. By 2:30 we were moving into a perfectly built camp and getting ready for afternoon tea and popcorn in the dining tent. We rested away the afternoon and came out before dinner to watch the light change and to gaze up at tomorrow’s challenge -The Great Barranco Wall. Damp and dense clouds then washed in and out over camp for the next few hours like waves at the beach.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
The Four Day Summit Climb Team led by RMI Guide JM Gorum reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The team climbed well above the heavy marine layer, and reported clear skies with summit temperatures of 25 degrees and winds from the southwest of about 25 mph. The team has started their descent and are en route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's team!
Congratulations on this GREAT accomplishment to be so proud of ! Happy that you are all safe, hoping the return trip is just as good for all of you. Way to go Bob !!!!
Monday June 25, 2018 - 2:11 PM PT
We woke at midnight for a 1:35 AM start down from 11K camp. What originally looked like a cloudy day in whiteout navigation mode turned into a beautiful clear morning with alpine glow on Mt Foraker’s Sultanna Ridge. We took some breaks, dug up a cache, and finally walked up ‘heart break hill’ to finish the self propelled portion of our expedition. We waited for 3 hours plus for the weather to clear between the Alaska Range and Talkeetna. Finally, K2 Aviation swooped in with the stunning Turbo Otter ski planes to whisk us back to a rainy Talkeetna. Food, beverages, showers, and sleep are in order... for some of us, in that exact order. Thanks for following along and what a great team to climb Denali with!
RMI Guide Mike King
Sunday, June 24, 2018 - 9:13 PM PT
Good evening from Huaraz!
It never gets old... our standard acclimatization hike (in picture here) to Churup Lake at 4,400m is a half day endeavor for virtually every Alpamayo Expedition in the last five years. A couple thousand feet of elevation gain to an incredible glacial lake below a radical looking peak baring the same name, provided for us the perfect exercise on after all the travels.
A speedy descent brought us to our private van, and we were shuttled to Peruvian delicacies in downtown, before retreating back to the hotel to pack for tomorrow's hike in to the Santa Cruz Valley and start our approach to Alpamayo Base Camp.
The real adventure is about to start! Everyone is excited and motivated. Next post will be from the woods... stay tuned!!!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team
Hi Michael -
Glad you had a day to rest. Gorgeous picture! Good luck with the big climb today. The blog has been great.
Love, Mom and Dad
Posted by: Frank and Maureen Santoni on 5/27/2016 at 10:08 am
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