Most Popular Entries
Hi everybody and welcome to the dispatch blog for this year's early January
RMI Aconcagua expedition. Billy here checking in from lovely Mendoza, Argentina, where the last of our team (and a bunch of missing luggage) has finally arrived. We had an informative meet and greet this evening poolside at the classic Nutibara Hotel, a haven for
Aconcagua climbers from all over the world, where we all got to know each other and run through some important details about our upcoming adventure. Afterwards we headed out on the town for our first team dinner, enjoying the steaks, wine, and Italian influenced food Mendoza is famous for. It looks like we have a very fit and experienced climbing team this year which bodes well for our chances up on the mountain. We'll check in again tomorrow from Los Penitentes where we'll be packing up our loads for the mules and finishing up the last of our preparations before heading onto the mountain.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Team Orlando was in full safari mode as we explored the
Ngorongoro Crater and all the wildlife and beauty it had to offer. We visited a Maasai Mara village to learn the great history and culture of such a strong and beautiful people.
RMI Guide
JJ Justman & Team
Hello from camp at 12,570' high on the
Shira Plateau. It's wonderful being here in this large, open camp. The sun is shining and providing a nice contrast to our cloudy, wet and somewhat cramped camp of yesterday.
Walking at 8:00 we climbed steeply and steadily for most of the way to camp, taking advantage of key spots to break and enjoy the incredible views of this most interesting world around us. Everyone has adopted the mountain mindset of 'pole pole,' or ' slowly, slowly. ' This allows us to patiently step off to the side whenever another group of the hundreds of porters here need to get past us. We know which side of our bread is buttered. If the porters don't get to camp, we have no camp. More importantly it keeps us from walking too fast and needlessly stressing our bodies, letting us acclimatize to the altitude better.
Everyone is doing well. How can they not be when Tosha, our chef, is spoiling us rotten. Today's lunch: fried chicken, French fries, vegetables and watermelon for dessert. Tomorrow brings us our biggest day yet getting to Barranco via the Lava Tower. Bring it on!
Until tomorrow,
RMI Guide Brent Okita
On The Map
The clouds blanketed Machame Camp for much of the night and we even had brief periods of rain... all of which made it feel wonderful to wake to crystal clear skies in the morning. We were just on top of thick layers of cloud, but finally we had unobstructed views of Kibo (Kilimanjaro's main peak) above.
We ate breakfast and marched out of camp at 8:20, immediately encountering a steep and rocky trail up through a forest of giant heather. There were large numbers of porters -ours and those of neighboring teams- balancing loads on their heads as they wove through the straight up stream of morning traffic. The clouds rose up and swallowed us again for several hours as we steadily gained altitude. Up around 12,000 ft we broke free again and had a better look at the exotic giant scenecios among the heather. 16,000 ft Mount Meru became visible to the west as another island in the cloud sea. We began a traverse along shelves of lava with the boys keeping a sharp eye out for crystals among the ancient flows. The gang easily handled a few steeper steps and we reached a high point of 12,800 ft before dropping down into
Shira Camp at 12,500 ft. Then it was an easy and peaceful afternoon of eating napping eating and eating some more. We were treated to a magical evening as the
sun dropped into the clouds out beyond the Shira Plateau and the moon and stars took over at entertaining us.
Everybody is happy and healthy tonight and getting easily into the rhythms of camp and climbing life.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
June 2, 2017
Hello, The team had an amazing day moving up to
14,200 ft Camp today. This team is doing some really great work with smooth climbing and great camp setup skills. We departed our 11,200 ft camp just after 8am and we able to use the morning shade and sun to our advantage, keeping us cool while climbing and warming us during our breaks. We arrived at 14 camp just after noon and enjoyed a sunny afternoon to build our camp. The views are amazing up here and we can see some of the challenges ahead, including the fixed lines. For dinner this evening, the team enjoyed another round of Chef Tyler's chicken quesadilla's served up with some spicy guacamole and Sriracha, who knew you could eat so well on an expedition! Tomorrow we will spend the day in camp resting, reinforcing camp and practicing some skills we will need for the days ahead.
RMI Guides Tyler Jones, JM Gorum and Bryan Mazaika
On The Map
Our acclimatization climb to
Ingraham Flats went well today with beautiful weather. What a view of the mountain. Our guide training team went to the summit and prepped the route for us, so we should be in good shape for our climb tonight.
Let's hope the wind and weather hold for us. I think it will.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
We left
Everest Base Camp today after a very comfortable and enjoyable stay. The team has enjoyed the trek through the Khumbu Valley, but without a doubt, our Base Camp set up had the nicest dining room, cleanest bathroom, and most enjoyable shower we've experienced.
The team enjoyed a few last views of the glacier and surrounding mountains as we retraced our way back down valley, pausing occasionally to allow the Yak trains to pass with their important cargo that will help the Mt. Everest Expeditions succeed.
We hiked for seven hours today and descended more than 3,000' back to Pheriche. Needless to say the team is feeling good and enjoying the thicker air.
RMI Guide Casey Grom
On The Map
Today brought our team within striking distance of base camp! We battled strong down valley winds for most of the day, but were rewarded with our first glimpse of
Aconcagua just shy of our current camp at Piedra Parada. Our team is growing more and more practiced in the art of alpine resting, and put their skills to use this evening munching on asado and watching our hardworking mules take dust baths. Everyone is strong, happy, and healthy, and looking forward to checking in from 14K!
Hasta manana!
RMI Guides Mark Tucker and Pepper Dee
Our attempt on the highest mountain in
Antarctica is coming together. We've got our entire team -four climbers and one guide- pulled together in Patagonia to kick this thing off. The "normal" air travel is finished... we even got all of our baggage through the system. We celebrated by walking about the town of Punta Arenas, Chile in unseasonably warm and comfy weather. The team fought off jet lag long enough to enjoy a great meal together. We've got to get to work in the morning to prep for a Saturday morning departure for the Ice, but now it is time to sleep hard and recover from overexposure to those evil airline seats.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
The
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz, led by
Mike Haugen, spent the week training as they built up to their summit push. With an alpine start from their high camp on the Kautz Glacier, the team began their quest. They accomplished their summit goal just after 7:00 a.m. this morning and then began their descent via the Disappointment Cleaver Route. Mike reported moderate winds and snow. The team will make their way back to Ashford later today.
Previous Page
Next Page
Gerald from team 2015 wishing you all a safe climb! Remember it’s about the journey not the destination :)! However let’s face it the destination is pretty AWESOME! Can’t say enough good stuff about Billy and Katrina. Love Love Love e;m!!! You guys are in good hands with this A team! Watch listen and learn…They have so much experience and knowledge not to mention their professionalism as guides was invaluable to the 2015 teams success. Been thinking about joining you in Ecuador Billy Feb.2nd… What no Katrina! Maybe not then LOL!!!
Have a GREAT climb team!
Gerald
Posted by: Gerald Flynn on 1/13/2016 at 9:06 am
Randy…your epic adventure begins! Best of luck and try to stay warm. I will think of you every time I crawl under our nice warm electric blanket. I love you! “The mountains are calling and I must go.” John Muir
-Lisa
Posted by: Lisa Irwin on 1/13/2016 at 8:32 am
View All Comments