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Entries from Mt. McKinley


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Retrieve Cache and Race Around for Science

Thursday, June 13, 2013 Today we "rested" at camp, but it hardly felt like it. After breakfast we put on some empty packs and boogied down to retrieve our cache at 13,500'. The wind kept our somewhat spirited return trip from being too hot. Once back and rested, we fortified camp with stellar walls for the afternoon. Some of us even found a little time to participate in a high altitude medical study which had us racing around in the name of science. Then dinner and a few songs around the stoves and off to bed. The team impressed everyone around with our hard work and we really earned some down time tomorrow. Maybe there will be some actual rest for this not so weary crew. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I’m so impressed with all of you!  Amazing.  Good luck & safe journey up. 
Karen

Posted by: Karen Hoffman on 6/14/2013 at 1:40 pm

I take it that Grasshopper will NOT be at happy hour today in McKinney, then. (It was his turn to buy, you know). Safe journeys!

Posted by: Tim on 6/14/2013 at 12:30 pm


Mt. McKinley: Team Haugen is on the Mountain!

Thursday, June 13, 2013 We are all safely nestled in our tents just off the landing strip at basecamp. We had a magnificent flight from Talkeetna to basecamp at the flanks of Denali. The weather on the glacier is as warm as I have ever seen it. For this reason, we are not traveling today and instead used the warm weather during the day to organize our backpacks and sled loads. We worked on some crevasse rescue techniques as we are about to head out onto the Kahiltna Glacier; a glacier filled with giant cracks in the ice. We are going to travel up glacier tonight so we can travel on firm snow and solid snow bridges. Wish us a solid freeze! RMI Summit Team 6 - RMI Guides Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Katie Bono & the team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Ahh, I think I see you guys!  Wait, nope just a speck on my screen.  Grrr.

Guide guide away Scoob!  I am sending “everyone will summit” vibes out to your team! 

Miss YOU!

Posted by: Amber on 6/15/2013 at 9:10 pm

Good luck Grasshopper (Greg) Will be following you guys. Be safe
Glenn

Posted by: Glenn Bracey on 6/15/2013 at 2:23 pm


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Send Greetings from 14,000’

Thursday, June 13, 2013 Today we are all contributing to the blog. Have had big winds once again and are fixing our kitchen tent and building more walls - getting a little stir crazy! Hope you all enjoy the words from each of us! Hi to my family, I love you all hope to give grandpa a hi five soon! Kiss to Bean. Love, Ty Hello to all my family and friends! Kisses to Amy, a big scratching behind the ears to Barley, Blue, and Miles. Thanks for all the positive wishes! -g Wendy, Taylor and Nathan. Love and miss you. I hope you feel my hugs and kisses at bedtime. Be home soon. Love Dad Dear Michelle, I love you and miss you and the girls so very much. Please give all of my love to A-Bear and K-Bear, and tell them daddy will be home soon. Also, pass along my love to my mom, dad, Clubbie and Chevy. Love, Justin. To my Hubby, I hope you're flying high this week and passing all your tests. I really really miss you right now. Give my love and lots of treats to the girls :) Until i get home i'll leave you with reflections of a week at 14,200. To quote the crew from BBT"It was a snowy nightmare from whence there's no return." Tiamo mi amore-Jess To my family and friends, thanks for all of the support, love and prayers. I am "living the dream" at 14K. The DeLorme transceiver is no longer working, thus no updates there. I love you, Matt! You are my light. I love you Mom, Dad, Bud and all my family. Stump, there was a C-17 overhead yesterday--your handiwork? ;) Dad, sadly there is no Denali branch of Subway, but I'm sure you can petition corporate headquarters as one of their most valuable customers. :) Bernard and Judy, the boots are fantastic and keeping my feet warm, thank you! I love you all and miss you all so much. -Robin Friends, family, countrymen, lend me your ear! The Denali wind gods have saddled us at 14000. The team is at the mercy of Mother Nature and patience is the name of the game. It also means my work schedule is a bit hosed. Team PCET don't count on me coming in next week! Poof - ha! To all loved ones we are sitting strong and doing well. Hope to see you soon. James. Hello to my dear family Mom Dad Sue Ryan Mia Ron Jodi Dannie Casey Nell Meg Ivy Maggie and awesome friends from frosty Denali! Thanks for all the comments and positive vibes sent! Love you and miss you!! All is good here - hoping our "out chilling" will soon end and we can move up the mtn in the am. Hope all is well with all you! Have I told you that I love and miss you? :) I do! Lori

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hurry home. You are missed. Michelle and I are already planning our girls trip. Love you Clubbie.

Posted by: Kathy Guyette on 6/14/2013 at 3:59 pm

Now this is what I call a 14er “Ground Hogs’ Day experience…reliving it over and over! How fun…each day you can make it more perfect and more perfect then you can proceed to summit!~ Remember, Lori, we all expect you having a jumping picture on top of North America :)! Have fun mountain bonding!!!

Posted by: Sue Lopez on 6/14/2013 at 3:44 pm


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Flying to McKinley’s Kahiltna Glacier

Thursday, June 13, 2013 RMI Guide Mike Haugen called from Talkeetna, Alaska this morning. The weather is beautiful and the team is packed and ready. They are loading their planes at the K2 Aviation Hanger and will be flying to the Kahiltna Glacier today. We wish them a safe and successful expedition on Mt. McKinley!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Have a safe ascent and descent after you all summit. We are so proud of you QL.

Posted by: George Landers on 6/14/2013 at 3:53 pm

Best of luck to everyone. Be safe and don’t forget to have fun. 

A big shout out to Cindee Teer!

Posted by: Alyse Parrino on 6/14/2013 at 3:32 pm


Mt. McKinley: June 11th - Team Haugen Arrives in Talkeetna

Wednesday, June 12, 2013 Hi All! We are hanging out in beautiful Talkeetna, Alaska. We had a gorgeous day for organizing and packing our gear. the sun is shining and the mountain is visible in the distance. The team met up in Anchorage yesterday and have been slowly molding into Summit Assassin RMI Team 6! They really are a great crew! Our gear is all bagged, weighed, and tagged. We got the word that we are all supposed to fly to basecamp around 9 tomorrow morning so we are all scrambling to get in those last correspondences and last minute tasks before the morning. We are all set for an incredible expedition. Off to bed for an early start- RMI Guide Mike Haugen
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Good luck and be safe. We are thinking about you always.

Posted by: Bill Mackey on 6/13/2013 at 8:32 pm


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Move to 14,000’

Wednesday, June 12, 2013 A fine day for a move presented itself to us this morning and we certainly made the most of it. Leaving our 11,000' Camp in the early morning cold is great training for the chill of higher altitude and we made a solid bid before the sun came out in force. It's nearly always hot coming into 14 and today was no exception. We were treated to some real hospitality when we arrived in the form of another RMI Team, led by Tyler Jones and Garret Stevens. Freshly hydrated, we set to work building camp and rebuilding ourselves with a big meal and early night's rest. Tomorrow is a rest day, but I hazard a guess that we will be working in some way most of the day, retrieving a cache, fortifying camp and practicing for the fixed lines. It is exciting to be up here with such a great team! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Galen,
I wait eagerly everyday for updates, checking the blog multiple times (despite the fact that I have subscribed to notifications). I have also read the blogs of the team you saw come down after their summit as well as the other team who’s also at 14k but started before your team. Reading all of these incredible stories and lush descriptions makes me jelly :( and reminds me of when I camped on top of tajumulco. Looks like there’s a bit of very cold and fierce wind and you may have to wait before climbing to 17k and/or to the top. By my calculations, you have 2/3 days of buffer time so hopefully the winds will die down a bit. Or “if you can hold on. If you can hold on, hold on.” Today I found myself thinking and brainstorming about our travel and it made me happy. I hope to see you soon R

Posted by: Alice on 6/14/2013 at 1:04 am

Keep up the great work everyone!I miss you Michael, have fun and be safe. Love Vien.

Posted by: Vien Vail on 6/13/2013 at 5:22 pm


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Wait Another Day

Wednesday, June 12, 2013 Today is unfortunately another out chill situation. Garrett and I woke about 6 this morning to continued strong wind from 16,000 feet and above. The nature of the climbing is steep and exposed. With wind and a very cold north east flow, the risk of frostbite and loss of balance from the wind gusts, we have chosen to stay another day and hope for less wind tomorrow. We try to conserve our lunch food and avoid the piggy tendency that sitting and waiting in the tents provides! The weather is clear and warm in most of Alaska, but at the altitudes we want to venture into, the jet stream is on! On a more positive note, RMI Guide Jake Beren and his crew pulled into camp this afternoon, making for a great meeting of the minds in our 14,200' home. We are excited to spend some time with friends and climbing partners from past trips, although we do have high hopes for a move tomorrow. Report back soon! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Jess and team,

Mother nature will cooperate, she is just having one of those days.  Weather down here not much better.  Keep up the spirits, it will get better.

Jess, miss you here! Keep up the great work. 

Love, Hector

Posted by: Hector Valle on 6/13/2013 at 4:35 pm

Robin and Team!
Kudos to all of you for staying put and being safe! I have faith that conditions will be much better tomorrow and you will be able to move to your high camp.
Stay safe and stay warm and lots of prayers for your safe successful climb tomorrow. As the lyrics go “movin on up!”  Look forward to your next blog from high camp!
Love DAD

Posted by: Matt Prosser on 6/13/2013 at 6:18 am


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Carry to 13,500’

Tuesday, June 11, 2013 All these early mornings are sure getting us dialed on working in the cold and will surely pay off up high. Today we led the way out of 11,000 ft camp by a few hours and reaped the reward of hitting the sun at a not-so Windy Corner and putting in our cache at 13,500 ft in still, warm weather. The team did a great job and collectively we avoided baking in the afternoon sun. Now back at camp, the team is relaxing and recovering so that if Mother Nature allows, we can bump camps to 14,000' tomorrow. All we can do now is rest up and hope that Windy Corner lets us through one more time. RMI Guides Jake Beren, Leon Davis & Josh Maggard

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Thinking of Galen and the rest of the team and hoping that Windy Corner is not too windy for your ascent, and that the weather lets you enjoy the mountain at each step along the way.  Stay strong and safe. Kathleen and Bill, Arlington, VA

Posted by: Kathleen and Bill on 6/12/2013 at 6:59 pm

James and Others:

It sounds like “Miss McKinley” is making sure you appreciate what you have courageous chosen to pursue (and in due time achieve).  Knowing you ... you are enjoying the challenge even more ... while becoming even more aware of your unique adventurous drive,  persistence, and stamina!  Please help each other stay patient, optimistic and (most importantly) safe.  Best of success as you all continue to ascent!

Fred

Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 6/12/2013 at 12:23 pm


Mt. McKinley: Team Jones Waiting For Calmer Winds

June 11, 2013 You can't always get what you want... Those lyrics from Mick Jagger and the Rolling Stones were the first thing that went through the collective consciousness this morning. The guides woke at 6am, packed sleeping bags in preparation for departure and unzipped the tent - only to see winds whipping the ridge of the West Buttress route above. While camp here at 14,200' remains relatively calm, the higher reaches of the mountain are getting pummeled by ferocious northeast winds, which are sending plumes of spindrift snow off into the stratosphere. With a forecast high temperature of -15F at the 17,000' camp today, and winds gusting well into the 30mph range, the only safe option is to wait here in camp and hope for a less windy day to make our move. That combination of wind and temperature will actually feel like -65F (approximately), which can freeze exposed flesh in one minute. Needless to say, we're not going to venture into that kind environment. So here we sit and wait, hoping for a break in the wind. We were treated to a bodacious air show earlier, when the contract helicopter, an A-Star B-3, came ripping around and right over our tents about three times in a row. Seems like they are doing some sort of filming up here, and we all mugged shamelessly as the ship blasted less than 40 feet above us. Good entertainment, to say the least. While we have had more than one facetious conversation about moving in the wind storm, the group is prepared to wait for the right time and the right weather window. To channel the Stones yet again (and continue the song): If you try sometimes, you might find you get what you need So here's hoping we get what we need! RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens and the patiently waiting team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Completely enjoy today and the amazing view from where you are….you are somewhere so very few have ever been! Way to feel and create the magic of your life’s goals :)!  Onwards and Upwards to you all!!!

Posted by: Sue Lopez on 6/12/2013 at 12:58 pm

Nothing wrong with sitting tight and waiting for the right moment. Just stay safe and stay warm and have another bagel:) We’ll be praying for your weather to break… and you will get what you need. Looking forward to your next installment.
Cheers and prayers for you all!

Matt -1

Posted by: Matt Prosser on 6/11/2013 at 10:03 pm


Mt. McKinley: Jones and Team Continue Rest at 14,000’

Monday, June 10, 2013 A windy and cold night was greeted by more wind. For our team this is no issue, as we had planned this second consecutive rest day. This will be just the ticket for a more acclimatized and rested body that we will need for summit success. The menu for this morning was supreme. Round upon round of bagels with cream cheese topped with bacon along with hash browns covered in cheese took us once again well past noon to complete. The places we travel in the mountains can lead one to believe we are Martians, ready to launch onto to another planet - and that is exactly what we are doing. We push ourselves both mentally and physically, taking our personal learning and discovery to a higher level. When we return from these Martian lands, after having come face to face with deep personal truths and surpassing previously held limitations...we bring a richer and more rounded person home, someone who understands more about the nature of teamwork, sacrifice, and awareness. We thank you all for the support and the opportunity to let us dig deep and take on a new understanding of our passions! The afternoon has more smelly tent time spent pounding water, fussing over who is the best celeb of all time and growing hairier by the day! The forecast is looking to set up nicely over the next few days and we hope to move to our high camp tomorrow. Till then keep the vibe high for our push! RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens and the crew

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great work Justin aka Jason. can’t wait to see your pictures. Clubbie

Posted by: Kathy on 6/11/2013 at 9:29 am

Nice going!  And congratulations, Justin—I think the Kensington Fire Department lightweights have nothing on you now.

Posted by: Peter on 6/11/2013 at 8:31 am

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