Entries from Expedition Dispatches
We have arrived at base camp! Our team is in full effect chilling. We had a beautiful last day trekking up the
Relinchos Valley, and guess what!? The Old Spice worked! We had a family of guanacos checking us out as we filled up water bottles at a nearby stream.
The cowboys that have graciously helped us waved goodbye as they rode past. Aconcagua was out for most of the day as we walked in. The team is doing great and it's so nice to unload all our gear without having to pack it all up for the mules. Now, we get to rest and relax at 13,800 feet.
RMI Guide
JJ Justman & Team
It's hard to believe our trip is already half over! We have seen some incredible places and have had the opportunity to climb three peaks so far: one big mountain and a couple of smaller peaks. Along the way, the team has really come together and has definitely gotten in to the "groove" of expedition climbing. It's great to see everyone working together to set up camps, take care of chores, and take care of each other.
Today was a technical skills training day. We slept in until 7 am, then loaded in to a couple of 4x4 vehicles and began an exciting off-road drive to the base of
Antisana. An hour or so of hiking brought us to the toe of the glacier, where we donned our crampons and ice axes for the hike to our training area for the day. Today's topics were crevasse rescue, rappelling, and fixed line travel.
After a few quick demonstrations, everyone had time to practice the various skills at a number of different stations. As guides, our job was easy today! Everyone was helping each other master the techniques and all we had to do was stay out of the way and watch the magic happen! It was great to see folks working as a team and to see everyone so eager to learn and help out.
Back at base camp, it's almost 7 pm now and everyone is tucked away in their tents. Half of our team is going to wake up in just a few hours for a summit bid; the other half has opted instead for another day of rest and technical skills practice, giving themselves the best odds on
Cotopaxi in a few days.
That's all for now! Wish our summit team well tonight as they head up for the first ever RMI attempt at Antisana!
RMI Guide Nick Hunt
Greetings friends, relatives, loves ones, roommates, neighbors, acquaintances, enemies, stalkers, etc. We've made it safely up to a crowded
Camp 2 (Guanacos Campo, Chopper Camp) and settled into our tents. The move from Camp 1 was largely uneventful except for partly cloudy skies which made for rapid, drastic temperature changes... Freeze or fry, as they say, never comfortable. We moved extremely well despite the slightly funky weather and big loads and were greeted by the many Camp 2 inhabitants. We actually had to use our snow shovel and a borrowed McCloud to grade out new tent platforms in the dirt. Moving earth turned out to be quite a bit more taxing than the actual climbing! Anyway, we are all here feeling the altitude a bit but doing well nonetheless. Tomorrow's plan is largely dependent on the weather forecast we get tonight, wish us luck and good favor with Mother Nature!
All for now,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
On The Map
The team is at
Casa de Piedra, which in Spanish means... house of...Piedra. It was another gorgeous day of trekking in the Vacas Valley. Everyone is doing great and we are excited to be one step closer to base camp. For me it's always fun to hear and see the expressions on people's faces as they truly appreciate how beautiful it is here.
We had a condor sighting, which is rare in the towering mountains. However, the elusive guanaco is nowhere to see. I'm pretty sure if I put on some Old Spice it will attract some for the team. Stay tuned!!
RMI Guide JJ Justman
Leaving Papallacta behind today wasn't easy. We only spent a single night there, relaxing our muscles in the natural hot springs, but I'm sure many of us were ready to call it home. Wifi, beds, good food, cozy cabins... But alas, we must move on and continue what we came out here to do. The glistening white slopes of Antisana are calling out to us!
Our day did began with some sad news, however. Two of our climbers made the difficult decision to head home early due to a debilitating illness. We will miss them on the rest of our journey and we hope for a speedy recovery once they get back.
On paper, today's objective was to establish base camp at
Antisana. In practice, however, it felt like our objective was to eat as much food as possible! After packing our gear, we ate a hearty breakfast at our hacienda, complete with fresh fruit, cheese, eggs, and bread. We loaded our gear and headed down the road toward Antisana. En route we stopped at a beautiful eco-lodge nestled at the base of a rocky cliff, famous for its native condor population. There, before our breakfast really had a chance to digest, we sat down for a delicious four course lunch. In truth, most of us probably could've stopped eating after the appetizers, but our insistent hostess made sure we finished the full meal. From there, another thirty minutes of driving brought us to the field that we'll call home for the next few days.
We spent the evening setting up camp, practicing various knots, hitches and bends, and (you guessed it!) more eating! Now the night is coming to a close, and everyone is inside their tents, resting up for another full day of training tomorrow.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
Today was a big day for the team. Our 9 a.m. launch saw us cruising down the Relinchos Valley in good style and at a good pace, with a little bit of swagger in our step. The first river crossing was enough to wake up the feet, and by the time we hit the bottom and started across the Vacas River we were in full stride.
After a nice foot/leg bath in the cold and swift Vacas River, we were on the good track that runs down and out the valley. It was a long hike, and while the scenery helped occupy some of the time, by the 9th hour most folks were ready for the welcome sight of
Pampa de Leñas, our campsite for the night.
We arrived and promptly set up tents. Good thing, too, as a rain squall passed up the valley and forced our crew into the small stone shelter next to the guardaparque hut. The rain couldn't dampen our spirits or our appetites, though, and we feasted on fresh asado (beef grilled over wood coals) and vegetable salad, washed down with delicious red wine.
The expedition is almost over, and the laughter drifting out of the cramped little shelter told the tale of new friends made, challenging experiences shared, and a bond that has turned this group of strangers into a strong, cohesive team. We'll finish the last little hike tomorrow, head into town, and rejoin the ranks of the civilized folks. Thanks for watching our progress, and keep it tuned in for the last of our updates.
RMI Guide Garrett Stevens
Hello folks! It's JJ and the
Aconcagua Team reporting live from Pampa de Las Lenas at 9,000 feet. It's phenomenal to finally hit the trail with the team. And what a team it is! We have brothers and sisters, old climbing buddies and now new friends.
We had a hot and blistery day trekking in the heat. Sunscreen and lip balm was in full effect. However now it is cloudy and we received a few drops of rain, which we welcomed with open arms. The guides are busy chopping fresh vegetables that we are going to grill along with a big slab of beef.
It's one of my favorite things...hanging out with the cowboys and the team. The cowboys like it when you ask questions and it's interesting to learn about their lifestyle. They work hard for it and it's nice to enjoy a great evening of food and their favorite drink...orange Tang.
RMI Guide JJ Justman
On The Map
The rumor mill was definitely flying around the
mountain yesterday about some big, bad weather system coming in next weekend... Luckily it has been pushed back out of the extended forecast and our intrepid team has been able to stick to our prescribed acclimatization schedule. Which means we're resting today! Laying around in the tent at over 16,000' isn't as exciting as it sounds but the rest will serve us well as we climb higher tomorrow. We are in good spirits and hopeful that the weather will cooperate as we move in to striking distance over the next couple days.
Laying around, eating jamon y queso, drinking coffee...
It's a grand life,
RMI Guides Billy, Walt, Katrina, and the gang
On The Map
It is the end of a long, long day that technically began yesterday. I know this sounds a bit odd but my alarm was set for 10:45 pm last night, the 12th. This is one of the least appealing parts of climbing big mountains, knowing you have a huge day to come on average with three hours of sleep. But lucky for the guides and each other, our team was totally motivated. So began the ascent of the equators only snow covered place, Nevado
Cayambe at18,997 feet.
From the hut, our route began with an hour and half of rocks and scree ascending 1,000 feet to the start of the glacier. Once on the glacier, newly accumulated snow, which had softened and then frozen, provided perfect climbing conditions up the long sustained glacier. By the time we reached the summit head wall, the temperatures were in the low teens, the wind was blowing and we all climbed to the top in our down parkas. And people thought we were going to
Ecuador to get out of winter.
The summit was beautiful offering grand views of our next two mountains, Antisana and Cotopaxi, as well as Quito and Chimborazo. This is what makes the early wake up call, freezing temperatures and exhausted bodies worth it. We took seven hours to get to the top and rallied down in three. Unfortunately, both phones carried by
Nick and me died in the cold before the top so a group photo will be coming later.
After getting down and packing up, we hiked 30 minutes down to meet Victor and the magic bus to be carried off to our next accommodations, Papallacta. Here we enjoyed a fantastic meal but most importantly, natural thermal hot tubs. Which reminds me, it's time for a soak.
We are off to
Antisana later today. Wish us luck.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
On The Map
We are continuing to plod our way slowly but steadily up this mountain. Our team woke to beautiful blue skies this morning and took advantage of the good weather by putting in another cache up at our
Camp 2, which also goes by the names "Guanacos Camp 3," and "Chopper Camp." No matter what you call it, it sits at over 18k' and is one of the last spots with running water as you ascend. We made short work of the carry, climbing the 2,000' or so in 3 stretches and made even shorter work of the descent back to Camp 1. The skies clouded up this afternoon so we got to enjoy some comfortable napping temps in the tents. We spent the rest of the day eating napples, reading, and listening to tunes. Rumors of deteriorating weather have us pondering our next move but our plans call for another rest and acclimatization day.
We'll see what Mother Nature has in store for us,
RMI Guide
Billy Nugent
? Blind-folded Donkey’s. You guys must all be pretty confident if you hired blind jackasses to hlp the team!
Posted by: Sandy reierson on 1/18/2014 at 9:25 am
Way to go Team 6! Waiting for very cool photos of Lew Smith on top of Aconcagua
Posted by: Rob Pierson on 1/17/2014 at 6:12 pm
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