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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Denali Expedition: Hahn and Team Enjoy R & R Denali Style

Thursday, June 27, 2019 - 10:44 PM PT No alarm clocks this morning. It was a rest day at 11K. Everyone came into the dining tent with smiles around 9 AM, having enjoyed lying in. We stretched breakfast to last a couple of hours as we swilled coffee and chowed down on perfectly constructed breakfast burritos. Some followed that with the first naps of the day, others read, chatted, sorted gear or daydreamed. It was a fine day with mild temps and strong sun. Nobody was sorry to have an occasional cloud throwing shade. We rehydrated and rested. R & R Denali style. There are only about three other teams at 11,000 ft at the moment - the climbing season is tapering off - and so things were quiet and calm. The forecast calls for a few more nice days, which is usually about all one can ask for around here. We will spring back into action tomorrow with the big move to 14 Camp. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Congratulations team on the progress to 11,000.  Big milestone!  You rock!

Posted by: Ken Porrello on 6/28/2019 at 12:57 pm


Denali Expedition: Haugen and Team Visit the Edge of the World

Thursday, June 27, 2019 - 9:45 PM PT Not much to report from 14k. We woke up late, ate breakfast burritos for brunch, and relaxed. We did stretch out our legs and walk out to an area called the Edge of the World. As suggested, the Edge of the World is a huge drop of that overlooks the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. We all got our hero shots from this spectacular viewpoint. We are going to spend at least one more day at 14k to see if we can let some wind clear out before we return up high to 17k. It has been so nice at 14k that we feel a bit spoiled! RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team Siete
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Joan. A tope. Aqui desde las azores marta y yo te damos animos como si estuvieramos juntos en Islandia last year. GO FOR IT and come back save with your family…

Piensa que en barcelona estan a 40 grados celsius!!!!! .

Love you Ana

Posted by: Ana prats on 6/28/2019 at 10:21 am

Wind, wind, go away,
so we can get underway,
any day would be OK,
this isn’t exactly a holiday!

Thinking of you and wishing you calm days. Go Tym!  Go Team!!

Love Mom and Zeppelin

Posted by: Kristi Kennelly on 6/28/2019 at 10:03 am


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Weather Day at High Camp

Thursday, June 27, 2019 - 10:22 AM PT We woke up and fired up the stoves early again today, hopeful for good climbing weather. But the clouds that were lingering above us at 4:30am have descended and engulfed the Denali, including our camp. We are currently back in our tents staying warm and dry. There is near zero visibility with light winds and precipitation and high humidity. Unless things turn around quickly, we'll chalk today up as another day to rest and acclimate. We're hoping for improving conditions the next couple of days. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

What a suspense ! Hope you’re not getting too impatient ! :)

Posted by: BOINEAU Marie-Cécile on 6/27/2019 at 10:13 pm

Sooooo hoping yall can summit today!!!!  Best of luck!!!  Team Casey!!!!

Posted by: Mindy on 6/27/2019 at 10:05 pm


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Carry and Cache

Wednesday, June 26, 2019 - 11:21 PM PT Our workable weather continued today. Crisp, cool and mostly clear conditions prevailed as we set out above 11,000 camp at 7:15 this morning. Motorcycle Hill was first up, but didn’t take us all that long, just forty five minutes of “duck foot” cramponing up a steep snow slope with a handful of well-bridged crevasses. Next up was Squirrel Hill, a little traversing and some more duck footing, which brought us up to the Polo Field at the west end of the West Buttress. By this point, we were finally out of the valleys... looking up at surrounding mountains has been fun, but now looking out and down at the world from 12 and 13,000 ft is novel and beautiful. Windy Corner wasn’t windy. We took a pleasant rest break there in the mid morning sunshine. Then we put our helmets on and climbed around the corner. A new world opened up to us as we could now see the upper West Buttress and the bulk of Denali’s South Peak up close and personal. At 13,500 ft, we’d reached our target for the day -about four hours above 11 camp. We dug a deep hole in the snow to cache food and gear out of the reach of crafty clever ravens. Enjoying the sunshine and calm conditions, we lingered for about an hour before starting our descent. The track was in fine condition, so walking/climbing down went smoothly and easily. We strolled into 11,000 near two in the afternoon, which as we’ve discovered, is a darn good time for a nap. Clouds came and went throughout the afternoon and evening, there were some light showers, but nothing of great significance from our perspective. We’ll rest tomorrow to solidify acclimatization before making the big jump up to 14 camp. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn and Team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Following along from sea level and 95 degrees, wishing we were there on the top with you.  Good Luck with continued good weather and happy hikers.  N & P from Maryland.

Posted by: Sandy on 6/28/2019 at 5:42 am

Thanks David - great being connected!  Is that Keir in front of the camera in today’s post walking up hill? Awesome views and blue skies!

Posted by: Rich Green on 6/27/2019 at 10:05 am


Denali Expedition: Haugen and Team Cache Supplies at High Camp

Wednesday, June 27, 2019 - 9:55 PM PT Mission successful! We cached gear up at 17k high camp. The morning started out pretty warm (for 14,000 ft in AK). We made our way up to the fixed lines. For our first time up the fixed lines, the group did exceptionally well. We made our way up to the ridge at 16,000 ft and caught some wind. We decided to keep going up since everyone was staying warm and relatively comfortable. Although we never lost the wind, we made our way all the way up to high camp. I think our climbers were too distracted by the incredible climbing along the ridge to care about a bit of a breeze. We said hi to Mike Walter's team at 17k, cached our stuff, and then headed back down to our camp. After a 10 hour day, our climbers (and maybe guides) have earned a well deserved rest day tomorrow. We have been saving a breakfast burrito meal for such an occasion. Goodnight! RMI Team Siete
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great job team!  Proud of you Meghan, ever the motivator in your words and actions!

Posted by: Jerry O'Quinn on 6/28/2019 at 12:04 am

You’re all a bunch of badasses!!

Posted by: Shannon Henn on 6/27/2019 at 10:33 pm


Mt. Rainier: ALA Climb for Clean Air Update

The American Lung Association's Climb For Clean Air Team made a summit attempt of Mt. Rainier early today before low visibility and poor weather forced the team to turn. This team was led by RMI Guides Win Whittaker and JT Schmitt. Each team member commits a year to training and raising funds to support the American Lung Association’s mission of saving lives by improving lung health and preventing lung disease. The team is currently at Camp Muir and will be heading back to Rainier Basecamp for an afternoon celebration. Congratulations to Today's Team!
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Awesome job CFCA Mt. Rainier Climb Group #1! Thanks for letting Dylan and I join in on your descent from Pebble Creek! Y’all are so inspiring dealing with that insane weather!

Posted by: Leesha on 6/27/2019 at 7:31 pm

Well done CFCA Team! Weather is always a crap shoot! Better to be safe to climb another day! Glad your safe!

Posted by: Julie on 6/27/2019 at 6:23 pm


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Decide to Wait and Watch the Weather

Wednesday, June 26, 2019 - 3:30 PM PT We had hopes of making a summit push today, but as we were gearing up early this morning winds began to increase and a lenticular cloud cap began forming on the summit. So we pumped the brakes to see what would materialize. As it turned out, the cloud cap continued to materialize. Eventually we pulled the plug on the waiting game. We'll use today a a rest day (although the weather is making it unable to climb, it is not too uncomfortable at camp). We're hoping for calmer winds tomorrow so we can give it a go. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Sending you all warm thoughts & good vibes!!! Stay smart and strong! And go CK go!!!!

Posted by: Dove on 6/27/2019 at 10:06 am

Trusts you instincts and analysis Mike. Best of luck with the timing and success of the last stretch.
Pieter

Posted by: Pieter Swart on 6/26/2019 at 10:49 pm


Mt. Elbrus Ski: Reid & Team Enjoy a Dramatic Sunset and Canal Tour on Their Final Day in Russia

Today the team explored the city of St. Petersburg, including a beautiful evening canal tour complete with dramatic sunset and hilarious narration from our tour guide. Tomorrow the team disbands, departing in the direction of our various homes or next destinations. A big thanks to everyone for coming together and bringing your A-game to this Mt. Elbrus Ski Expedition. Till next time... RMI Guide Tyler Reid
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Mt. Rainier: Kautz Seminar Makes Summit Attempt

The Kautz Seminar June 23 - 28 made their summit attempt today, they climbed the crux of the route and reached 14,000' between Point Success and the true summit before weather turned them around. RMI Guide Tyler Jones reported a thick cloud cap with snow and cold temperatures. The team will descend to camp and continue their training on the mountain for the next few days.
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Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Enjoy Rest Day at 14,000’ Camp

Tuesday, June 25, 2019 - 10:00 PM PT We didn't get out of the tent this morning until the direct sunlight at 9:30. We enjoyed a relaxing breakfast of toasted bagels with cream cheese and smoked salmon. We are really roughing it here at 14,000' Camp. After our late breakfast, we did some fixed line practice for our trip up high tomorrow. Our plan is to carry some supplies up high so that when the weather is good we can move to high camp and go for the summit soon after. The crew is all doing very well and we are excited to keep climbing up! RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Team Siete

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

To Kerry:

Still raining in Oklahoma!

Posted by: Patrick Admire on 6/26/2019 at 2:28 pm

Hey, Meghan… you’re finally doing it and with the best outfit with which to climb. Wishing you all the best and will follow the daily dispatches. If you come back through Seattle and time allows and, let me know and I will buy you a celebratory drink!

Posted by: Everett Moran on 6/26/2019 at 12:16 pm

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