Entries from Expedition Dispatches
RMI Guide Casey Grom radioed from the summit of Mt. Rainier at 7:33 am with his Four Day Summit Climb Team along with the Five Day Summit Climb led by Lindsay Fixmer. The
Four and Five Day Summit Climb teams reported great conditions on the mountains and a beautiful day with barely any winds. The teams were going to start their descent just before 8 am and will return to Camp Muir and then continue to Paradise.
We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp later this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
These are the McKinley moments that tend to recharge the batteries and make the hard days tolerable. Inside the tent, wrapped in a mountain of down, fed by the culinary expertise of Lindsay and Andy with views straight down the
Kahiltna Glacier that knock your boots off. The simplicity of this entire process creates an appreciation for simple rest not realized in other facets of ordinary life. Get up, work yur' arse off, get real tired and hungry, eat and go to bed. No technology distractions, no depressing news feeds, simply us and the mountain.
Having just completed day three, we are all pleased with our current position. We awoke this morning to chilly temps, blowing snow and low visibility. Because of our lower elevation of 9,300 feet another move day seemed a bit much so we opted for a carry that landed a majority of our team's unneeded gear at the 11,000 ft camp which we plan to move to tomorrow. These first four or five days can be some of the climb's hardest but everyone has handled it with grace and competence. We anticipate another strong team performance tomorrow. Big hugs go out to friends and family who are taking the time to follow along.
Hasta mañana,
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
On The Map
After a big day yesterday, we had a rest day here at
14,000' on Mt. McKinley. We practiced some more fixed rope techniques and got ourselves organized. Our plan is to move our cache up to 17,000' camp tomorrow. This will allow us to carry much lighter on our move day and to further our acclimatization before we make our big move up to 17,000' Camp.
RMI Guide
Mike Haugen and "The Ocho"
On The Map
We had a very windy day today amidst the clouds at 15,300'. Despite today's weather we're optimistic about our
Cayambe summit attempt for tomorrow. Caio for now!
RMI Guide Mike Walter
June 22, 2014 - 8:16 pm PT
It seems bizarre to have been in deep winter this morning at 14K Camp, waiting on the snow to stop, and now in summery Talkeetna. But here we are. The snow did let up enough for us to load up some BIG packs and make our way down the mountain. We descended under a beautiful crescent moon until the typical storm conditions at 11K Camp abated and we were able to trade the GPS for some sunscreen. The lower glacier was in fine condition and the team put in another solid effort, putting us at the runway ten minutes before our first plane landed. The journey today was tough, but all were up for the challenge and now are enjoying that first shower in civilization before a meal prepared on something other than a MSR stove. It's good to be back.
Thanks to a fantastic team for an amazing expedition and everyone back home who helped make it happen. We were lucky enough to get to see the view from up top and all the hard work paid off. Nice job everyone.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
The Mt. Rainier
Four Day Summit Climb led by Mark Falender reached the summit at 6:00 a.m. this morning. At 7:15 he radioed from 13,000’ on their descent reporting blue skies, a bit chilly and light winds. Congratulations!
The
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by Seth Waterfall are traveling to the White River Campground beginning their approach to Camp 1.
June 22, 2014 - 2:46 am PT
What a great day in the mountains yesterday! I'd reckon we had one of the nicest summit opportunities of the season and it was a real treat to be in position to make the most of it. We topped out on
Denali with spectacular views in all directions and made it back to camp with as close to a solstice as you can get. The sun was still in the sky for an amazing sunset as we pulled into camp after a job well and safely done. Nice work everyone!
This morning weather rolled in from many directions and we chose to stall a bit before heading down the
Buttress. The blowing snow let up a little in the afternoon and we made the most if it, getting down to 14K Camp and having dinner before some shut eye. Tomorrow we will keep the momentum rolling downhill if the weather allows and get just a little closer to coming home.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
June 22, 2014 - 12:49 am PT
Today we woke to a cold, windy morning at high camp after yesterday's amazing summit. The blowing snow and frigid temperatures kept us tent-bound until mid-day, when the allure of thicker air and warmer temperatures finally got us motivated to pack up and get moving.
The first stretch down the
buttress was windy and cold, but by the time we reached Washburn's Thumb it was much warmer and calmer. We made quick work of the last stretch to the lines, and then shot down the fixed ropes like it was our job. Soon we were dropping packs back in 14k camp, saying hey to
Billy Nugent and
Mike Haugen and their respective teams, picking up our cache and getting ready to move further down.
Soon enough, we got past Squirrel and Motorcycle Hills, revisiting our old stomping grounds at 11k. We pulled out all the cheese, meat, tortillas, and bagels we had, and commenced to put them all onto the griddle for the annual tradition of the "11,000' Cheese Fry". Basically we just cook all the goodness until folks are full, and then it's off to bed for the early am launch.
We're definitely missing the team members who had to head home early, and hope that everyone is warm and dry. Lots of walking left, but we should be at the airstrip tomorrow if all goes according to plan. We'll check back then!
Cheers,
RMI Guides
Garrett Stevens,
Tyler Jones,
Geoff Schellens and the No Troubles team
On The Map
June 22, 2014 - 12:41 am PT
We woke up early to cold temperatures. The skies were clear and the winds were calm. After a good breakfast we set out to carry gear up higher. Not too long after we started climbing, the weather began to turn. Snow began to blow at us as we approached the fixed lines that go up to
16,200'. The weather was never too terrible, but it was never good. We decided to cache our gear at the top of the fixed lines and head back to camp. Rest day/acclimatization day tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team "The Ocho"
On The Map
June 22, 2014 - 12:04 am PT
A snowy day here at 14K...
Howdy all. Our team enjoyed a weather/rest day after our back-carry yesterday. Winds up on the
West Buttress and steady snow through most of the day kept us from making an attempt at a carry up to 17K Camp. Tomorrow's weather outlook is a bit more promising and we are hoping to capitalize.
On a brighter note, the two successful
RMI teams came down from the summit and spent some time with us on their descent to the airstrip. It was a fun reunion for everyone and I congratulated those guys on their success and wish them safe passage down the Kahiltna.
Wurd.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
On The Map
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Congratulations, John! Very proud of the way set goals & focus to reach your goals.
Can’t wait to hear the details. You have a BIG team cheering for you.
Posted by: Nelia on 6/23/2014 at 3:22 pm
Prayers have been answered for your safe trip and return. Aren’t you great. It is special to have a dream and fulfill it. We are so proud of you and your dreams and your hard word work to achieve them. Mark you be the man !!! Have a safe trip home. Looking forward to seeing you soon and hearing about it. Congratulations
Love
Dad
Posted by: Nyles Eskritt on 6/23/2014 at 3:14 pm
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