Entries from Expedition Dispatches
June 8, 2014 - 5:50 pm
This morning we woke to warmer and windless air. The team packed our camp, had quick coffee with oatmeal and a granola bar. We then packed tents away, and organized snowshoes along with most of the sleds, some trash and few extra things we could spare to leave behind in a cache for us to pick up on our decent.
The travel was as calm and nice as we could ask for with light clouds passing over head. If we could complain about our weather we would just say we were too hot at times. This was a welcome change to the chilly morning we climbed in for our carry yesterday. Our crew made great time, even adding a rest stop on a completely windless
Windy Corner.
Once we arrived at camp our days work was far from over as the snow began to fall. We dug tent platforms, built another priceless kitchen posh house and prepped camp for a storm that is expected over the next few days. We are now getting some rest and fluffing our feathers. Soon will have a deluxe meal of quesadillas with chicken, fresh veggies, beans and rice to fill our bellies and help us sleep warm in our new camp in the Genet Basin at 14,200 ft. Tomorrow we have earned a full rest day of eating, drinking and acclimating.
Will be in touch soon!
Cheers,
RMI Guides Tyler, Garrett, Bryan and the "No Troubles" crew!
On The Map
The
Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide
Tyler Reid was able to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Strong winds kept the group from spending much time on top. As of 7:15 am they were at 12,900' on their descent.
The group will take a short rest at Camp Muir before continuing down to Paradise later today.
Congratulations to today's team!
Saturday, June 7th 10:36 PM PT
Greetings from
our home at 7,800' at the base of Ski Hill.
Today we carried big loads up to 9,600' camp and made a cache. This allowed us to get in some mileage and take a day off the sleds. It also gives us a lighter move day tomorrow and every little bit helps! Just before dinner it started to snow and we retreated to tents to rest up for the upcoming day. Cross your fingers for clearing skies and we'll make the most of them.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
The
Four Day Summit Climb Teams for June 5 - 8, 2014 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier just before 7 am today.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall checked in from the crater rim. The teams are enjoying clear skies and cool temperatures during their time on top today. The teams will return to Camp Muir and then continue their descent to Paradise and return to Rainier Base Camp later today.
Congratulations to today's teams!
June 7, 2014 - 7:23 pm PT
The past day and a half have been a whirlwind. Awakening early at 14,200' the skies had cleared spectacularly, a very nice change from the snowy weather we had getting to camp. With new snow on the ground climbing back down to 11,200' camp was easy.
We picked up our cache and visited with friends and some fellow guides before heading down glacier to
Basecamp. Because the glacier was in great shape we could travel during the day without needing to get on to a nighttime schedule to walk when the snow is cold and crevasse bridges stronger and safer.
Six hours later we were at the airstrip on the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. An hour later the great pilots at K2 had landed and were whisking us back to civilization. It was a rush to get in a shower before the restaurants closed.
But we made it and gorged on some wonderful food and cold beverages. A visit to the infamous Fairview Inn to celebrate our trip led some to hydrate to excess into the wee hours of the morning, but incredibly all made it to breakfast at 8:00.
And now we've split up and are going our own ways. Part of the team are going fishing and enjoying this great state some more, while the rest of us are flying home.
Leah, Nick and I are among those going home, opting out of fishing this time so we can see our loved ones, and take a well deserved rest.
Thanks for following along on our great adventure. See you next year!
RMI Guides Brent Okita, Leah Fisher and Nick Hunt
June 7, 2014 - 7:33 pm PT
The team got busy today by hauling a load of food and personal gear up to the next camp at 14,000'. Everyone performed well and we were able to cover the distance in just over four hours- a great pace.
All along the trail, we passed groups who were either hauling gear up to cache or moving camp from
11,000' to 14,000'. It was fun to say "hi" and encourage groups we have met along the way. The small tent city that has surrounded us for the last few days will reassemble up higher as groups ready for a summit bid.
Sitting at 14,000' this afternoon, the team got our first good look at the route. We talked through the flow of the climb and got excited. Hopefully, a few more short days will bring us the time to see if all of our preparations are sufficient to get to the top.
Thanks for following our journey.
RMI Guides
Eric Frank,
Geoff Schellens and the UWR team
On The Map
June 7, 2014 - 6:49 pm PT
...and the players are ready! Hello from our cloudy camp at 11,000. The team had a productive morning rising to a cold clear day! We started the day with a classic mountain breakfast of instant grits with a side of pop tarts. We know it's not likely many would approve but for us it hit the spot and was the fuel we needed on a breezy, cold morning lugging our cache loads all the way to our next
camp at 14,200 ft.
This was our first day of more technical climbing - we've been referring to the mountain behind us as the long heavy approach. The rope teams climbed with crampons and ice axes up Motorcycle Hill around to the famous Squirrel Hill. Lore has it that one early expedition had a furry stowaway on board that jumped from a member's pack at a break on this stretch of mountain, resulting in the long-standing name "Squirrel Hill."
After this section we made great time up to and around Windy Corner, which gave us a taste of some icy breezes as we crested over into the sun. The remaining stretch of glacier went quickly, and we were dropping our kit into yet another snow hole before noon. The group climbed flawlessly as we were back to our tents at 11,200' before we knew it. Now we're resting and preparing for tomorrow's move up to our fourth camp,the highest so far. Don't touch that dial, we'll be back with an update tomorrow!
RMI Guides Garrett, Tyler, Bryan, and the team
On The Map
RMI Guides
Mike Haugen and
Solveig Waterfall and their Four Day Summit Climb Team reached the top of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The team reported clear and beautiful weather with light winds of about 10 mph. The team has started their descent and will be back at
RMI Basecamp this Afternoon.
Congratulations to Today's Team!
June 6, 2014 - 9:55 pm PT
Today was a very productive day building red blood cells. We rested at
11,000 camp. After sleeping in, we spent the morning eating eggs, hash browns, and bacon and drinking coffee. We got to know some of our neighbors and packed for our carry to 13,400' tomorrow. Everyone is feeling strong and ready to keep working up hill.
Thanks all for following along with us.
RMI Guides Eric, Geoff and the UWR Team
Jesse says:
Family- John and I have hardly gotten into any trouble. The guides are great and like us. Today we played football and built snow thrones. I'm having such a blast.
Kelly- I've been thinking about you. We should check out that cliff house restaurant when I get back. Or maybe that white door place on filmore. I've been thinking a lot about food too. Miss you babe!
June 6, 2014 - 11:30 pm PT
70 years ago there was a landing much different than ours in a far away land. We are grateful for those past sacrifices.
Our landing was quite pleasant, leaving Talkeetna early and spending the morning packing up to head down the the Main Fork of the Kahiltna and make that crucial right turn towards
Denali. The team did well and we made camp at the base of Ski Hill under clearing skies, alpenglow of the high mountains and a just past halt moon. Nice way to start it off.
After setting up shop, the crew is hunkered down for some well earned rest and if the weather smiles on us again, we'll go higher tomorrow.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
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Congratulations Team !!
You’re moving up the mountain like a well oiled machine. I think 14k may be my favorite camp up there.
Tyler, Garrett - Don’t know where you’ll be in September but I’m signed up on the Sept. 19th, 4 day climb at Rainier.
-Larry Seaton
Posted by: Larry Seaton on 6/9/2014 at 10:19 pm
Wow. Great post tonight and glad the weather is cooperating. Stay strong And full of courage Jen. Love you and so proud of you.
Posted by: Marie on 6/9/2014 at 8:13 pm
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