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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


McKinley: Jones & Team Cold Temps & Wind = Another Rest Day

June 11, 2014 3:14pm PT Greetings from Team No Troubles, Sitting here for another rest day at 14,200'. Cold temperatures and steady wind have been the story of the day, and we made the right decision to stand by for the time being. Last night saw the mercury plummet to an ambient temp of -17F, which is much more common up here in April than it is in June. Combine that temp with winds in camp of about 15mph and you have a recipe for immediate freezing of any exposed skin, as the wind chill hovers somewhere between -45 and -50F. Brrrrr shiver! So instead of our planned carry to the top of the fixed lines, we'll stay in camp today, on a steady orbit around our posh and sleeping tents. The team is on guard against any uninvited trespassing into our bathroom, too, as we've had more than one inquiry from other folks about using our lovely on-mountain comfort station. Keep sending warm thoughts, and hopefully warmer weather, our way! Keep the comments coming too, we love to hear from y'all. From a frosty 14K camp. RMI Guides Bryan, Tyler, Garrett and the No Troubles Crew
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hope you get to see “Edge of the World” !!!

Posted by: Matt on 6/12/2014 at 8:09 pm

Hey Jake love the pictures. It’s only 60 degrees today here back in Minneapolis. Have fun and keep warm.  Auntie Joan

Posted by: joan Hansen on 6/12/2014 at 3:40 pm


Mt. Rainier: Two RMI Teams on the Summit June 11th!

RMI's Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by Elias de Andres Martos and Mark Falender reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 7:25 am today. Elias reported really good conditions and no wind. The sky is clear and it's a beautiful day. The teams will return to Camp Muir for a short break before continuing to Paradise. We look forward to seeing the teams at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great job Glenn.  The Wenatchee Valley Chamber of Commerce is proud of your accomplishment!

Posted by: Jerrilea Crawford on 6/12/2014 at 5:08 pm

Way to go CWH Team!!! CONGRATULATIONS!! I want to see some pics!

Posted by: Jenny Sass on 6/12/2014 at 9:48 am


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Continue to Wait For Better Weather

June 10, 2014 - 10:33 pm PT Can you guess where we are? Yes, 7,800' camp on Mt. McKinley. The snows continue to blow up glacier and keep us from advancing higher on the mountain. The team is doing a fantastic job staying dug out and keeping spirits high. We have plenty of food and fuel, we just need to the weather to allow us to go a little higher. It will and all we need is a little patience. Wish us luck. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Scott Thinking about you and wish you the best.  Ben

Posted by: Ben on 6/15/2014 at 12:12 am

Hey J-Rod are you going to summit that?  Whin misses you…well at least I think thats what her hissing at me means, haha. I’m eating all of Rice Crispies at your house FYI. They are delicious. Catch you on the flip side brother.

Posted by: Gunter on 6/12/2014 at 6:30 am


Mt. McKinley: Jones and Team Acclimating in the Arctic

Tuesday, June 10, 2014 - 4:10 PT The first real weather day for us this trip. The overnight temps dropped to -7F not including the wind chill. Our early morning plans to move a few items for caching up to our high camp were foiled by the high winds -- 35mph winds at 17,200' and negative temps! Not to mention the squalls of crystalline snow flakes flying in all directions. The sun peered out from the flanks of the west rib shedding enough solar rays to warm the tents. With the brim of a ball cap we scraped the tent walls free of the frost of our night's breathing. Lighting the stoves in our kitchen tent soon brought the smells of coffee, bacon, and cream cheese with bagels. This motivated our spirits to make our camp a fortress. We spent two hours building large block walls and remodeling the bathroom -- which, I might add, could be the best one currently on the mountain featuring a snow free enclosed taj ma-stall! Not to mention the fact that RMI Guide Bryan Hendrick took on a project to expand and improve an igloo just outside camp...soon we'll have a monstrous underground lair for additional resting and wind protection. Sick! We are now taking a rest, drying out and warming up after a great session. The wall building serves as great acclimatization through light exercise, team building, and making camp even better for this time we're spending in this harsh Arctic environment. We will keep our hopes high for lighter winds, less snow, and a bit of warmth. RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, Bryan Hendrick, and the crew!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Daveed,  You guys are all crazy (amy) however Bud wants to be there, he thinks it is hot here. Hope you are having fun. I can’t send you too much warm weather or I will freeze (amy). See you soon.

Posted by: BUD/AMY on 6/12/2014 at 6:11 pm

Dave, We’re waiting for summer to start, but our chilly 62 degrees must sound balmy to you.  Think summer thoughts.  Stay safe…

Patty

Posted by: Patty on 6/12/2014 at 5:37 am


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Remain at 7,800’

June 9, 2014 - 9:52 pm PT The team remained at 7,800' on Mt. McKinley and chalked it up to a weather day. Apparently they spent the day composing poetry. A copy of their work is below: We're below Ski Hill Snowing, blowing, eating here Hope to move up soon! Cheers from 7800, Katie, Leon, Jake, and Crew RMI Guides Jake Beren, Leon Davis & Katie Bono

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

How about posting a group picture with the guides in front?
I want to see all you mountain climbers.

Posted by: scott's mom on 6/11/2014 at 1:11 pm

Curious about what you all do all day waiting for the snow to blow over ?  Wishing you sunshine all the way to the top! Missing you Scotter Potter! 
Love, mom

Posted by: scott's mom on 6/11/2014 at 1:08 pm


Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Rest at 14,000’ Camp

June 9, 2014 - 10:15 pm After two days of climbing, we took a rest day today at 14,200' Camp on Mt. McKinley. We enjoyed a leisurely morning of coffee drinking and a breakfast of cream cheese and lox bagels as we relaxed and enjoyed some sun in Genet Basin. In the afternoon we took to the snow saws and built walls around our camp that would make Troy look like a toy castle. More relaxing followed as snow began to fall. We are hoping to make a carry up to the West Rib, around 16,200', tomorrow but we'll see what the weather allows. That's all for now. Thanks for following RMI Guides Eric Frank & Geoff Schellens

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

John, is it too late to join you?  I’m really getting inspired although I think I would require a motel come night fall.  Snow camping and ice hotels aren’t nearly as much fun as people think.  Can’t wait for the pics, especially those of you working hard! Local news: GO KINGS GO!  One more win to go!  Keep having fun.  GO TEAM GO!  Tante

Posted by: Lisa Stenderup on 6/11/2014 at 10:41 pm

You made it!!! Can’t wait to hear all the stories!!! Congrats to all Chris ‘s!!!!

Posted by: Robin Johnson on 6/10/2014 at 4:00 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four & Five Day Summit Climbs Reach the Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide JJ Justman along with the Five Day Summit Climb team led by Lindsay Mann both reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams spent some time on top and began their descent around 7:30 am. Both teams will return to Camp Muir to re-pack and then will continue down to Paradise. We look forward to seeing the groups at Rainier BaseCamp later today. Congratualtions to today's Summit Climb teams!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Woooo! Proud of all of you, the whole team! What an experience! Can’t wait to see pictures. Luv u Hannah! And amazed and inspired by what you guys did.

Posted by: Danielle on 6/11/2014 at 4:00 am

Fantastic job David. So happy for you:)
Love ya Buddy.
Dad

Posted by: Glenn Sedjo on 6/10/2014 at 5:58 pm


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Rest at 14,200’ Camp

Today was a pretty chill day for team No Troubles here at 14,200'. We took the concept of a rest day very seriously, and slept in until the sun hit the tents late this morning. Breakfast was a delicious combination of retort eggs/bacon/sausage/gravy meals and freshly fried hash browns with cheese. The hot coffee was the perfect complement to our leisurely meal, and we waddled out of the posh sufficiently stuffed for the morning. After a couple of hours of relaxation, we took some time to refresh our skills with the ascenders for the fixed lines, as well as practice for the running belays we'll encounter up on the West Buttress. The afternoon's weather turned a little more arctic, and we crawled into our tents after dinner to escape the frigid temps (-5F) and the blowing snow. For now, we're hoping for a break tomorrow morning so we can get our cache up onto the buttress. But as we all know, the weather has the ultimate say up here, so we'll make a game time decision in the morning. Thinking warm thoughts from 14 camp, ta ta for now! RMI Guides Garrett, Tyler, Bryan, and the team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Team No Troubles!  Good work, good food, good camaraderie… Leaving in the morning for Anchorage, will wave from the airplane; thinking of you Will…
Cathy & Elizabeth

Posted by: Cathy Lambert on 6/10/2014 at 4:44 pm

Jen - Brrrr! It was in the low 90s in Houston today. I would LOVE to send some of that heat your way. I love to hear your team name is No Troubles. That’s the way to go. Hope you are staying as warm as possible. Good luck on your cache carry tomorrow. I’m getting so excited for you guys!!

Posted by: Nicole on 6/10/2014 at 4:01 pm


Mt. McKinley: Frank & Team Make Camp at 14,000’

June 8, 2014 - 10:49 pm PT The team broke camp for the first time in three days this morning. We loaded our remaining gear into our packs and made the climb up to 14,000'. Even though the sun bore down on us for the last few stretches, we climbed strong and were in camp by mid-afternoon. As a group we are working on efficiency in building camps. So far we have had plenty of time and warms temperatures to put up tents and get organized. We are very strong and efficient when climbing, but on the upper mountain we can't wast any additional energy setting camps. I'm confident we'll get there. Light snow is falling and we are all tired from a long day. Good night. Thanks for following our progress, RMI Guides Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens the UWR team Andy sends love and hugs to his lovely wife Vivian and kids Jessika, Milli, Jayden, Jaylyn and Devon

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Well,here I am again… 2 blogs in one day.. But I have actually checked for updates about 10 times today!  Mom Frank, I just read your message to me, and needed to immediately respond. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!  You can’t imagine how much your words of encouragement mean to me!  John has great respect for the guides and their expertise. He has reassured me numerous times that they are very skilled and safety minded. However, no one but another Mom could ever understand or imagine just how much we worry about our children… Be they big or small!  You made me feel so much better!!!! I will try to relax! THANK YOU!

Posted by: Patty Stenderup on 6/9/2014 at 9:52 pm

Praying for safety as you head for the high country.  It sounds like you have an awesome team!  I don’t normally comment on the blog but it has been fun watching the Stenderup family follow this trip. I just couldn’t resist sending Mom Stenderup some encouragement.  Mom Stenderup - I remember the first time my,as you put it, “baby boy” headed up this 20,000+ mountain.  I checked the blog what seemed like a million times a day for 26 days.  Now I am watching this climb with a little different perspective.  You see my “baby boy” has grown into the young man who is the senior guide leading this expedition.  From one mountain climber’s mom to another… it’s OK to relax a bit, breathe and enjoy the journey.  Your boys are in good hands.  Eric and Geoff are both incredibly skilled, smart, mountain savvy, safety conscious, Senior RMI Guides. They are good at what they do.  So be encouraged.  Like you, I will continue to pray for the team’s safety. GO TEAM!  Summit this mountain with style.  Mom Frank

Posted by: Kathy Frank on 6/9/2014 at 8:01 pm


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Take a Rest at 7,800’

June 8, 2014 - 9:19 pm PT Today was a great day for resting and that is what we did. We awoke to some clouds and snow at our camp at 7,800' and decided to hunker down. Reviewing some knots and hitches filled the spaces between naps and we are raring to go tomorrow if the weather allows. It is snowing at present and with more snow in the forecast, we'll just have to wait and see. RMI Guide Jake Berenn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

George: we are tracking your progress on our “Where’s George” wall; stay safe

Posted by: Vicki Morrison on 6/10/2014 at 4:52 am

Best of luck Scott & team!  We’re following you and thinking of you!!

Posted by: Chris & Judy Beaudette on 6/9/2014 at 7:16 pm

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