Entries from Expedition Dispatches
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer checked in from Camp Muir at 6:45 am. The
Four Day Summit Climb team was forced to turn around at Ingraham Flats due to deteriorating weather. They experienced gusty winds, drifting snow and heavy precipitation. Camp Muir had a small accumulation of snow throughout the morning.
The
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz led by Elias de Andres Martos checked in from their high camp. The team was expecting to make their summit attempt today but we unable to do so due to the poor weather. The team experienced a very stormy night with consistent winds.
The Four Day Summit climb will return to Rainier BaseCamp later today. The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz will continue their training and spend another night on the mountain. They will return tomorrow afternoon.
June 16, 2014 - 8:03 pm PT
We arrived at our
11,000' camp in the late afternoon today. Our plan was to leave early this morning to head up here, but the weather was pretty terrible. White out conditions and strong winds kept us in the tent all morning. Just after noon, the weather started to get a bit better and we got word that the conditions were better higher up. We heard a couple of planes that take people on scenic tours overhead, so our suspicions of clear skies above were confirmed. We packed up our camp in record time and headed uphill. The conditions grew steadily better the higher we went and the traveling was actually pleasant.
We arrived in camp way earlier than we predicted as our team has been very steady and strong as we travel up the mountain. We built a storm fortified camp and are just finishing up a well earned meal.
Our plan for tomorrow is to do a back carry. This means that we will go back down to dig up our 10,000' cache and bring those supplies up to our new camp. We will hopefully have the weather to complete this task early so that we can rest up for our days at higher altitudes.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and RMI Team "The Ocho"
On The Map
June 16, 2015 - 6:07 pm PT
Snow, wind, sun... Repeat. That's been the story of our day today with rapidly changing weather that seems to change every twenty or so minutes. Despite the moderate weather our team was able to descend to the cache at 9,600' in a total whiteout, retrieve it, and climb our way by Braille back to our
camp at 11. For a lot of our guys it was their first experience in not so perfect weather so it served as good training for the inevitably bad weather we'll endure higher up. Even though it was a little crummy, we made short work of the back-carry and are settling back in with a planned rest day on the docket for tomorrow.
Also wanted to make a brief shout out to all the dads out there... Sorry I forgot to mention it yesterday but out here you lose track of what day it is at all. Happy belated Father's Day!
More news as our saga unfolds,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
On The Map
The
Four Day Summit Climb Team led by Casey Grom and the Five Day Summit Climb Team led by Zeb Blais reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 8:00 am PT. The teams reported clear skies and good climbing conditions with some chilly temperatures. They were able to enjoy some time on top today and began their descent around 9:20 am. The teams will return to Camp Muir for a short break before continuing down to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp later today.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb Teams!
June 15, 2014 - 11:35 pm PT
Well, the weather keeps us down in from higher altitudes. Though a short window during this morning allowed us to venture out to one of the best view spots in all of the
Alaska Range, The Edge of The World. We took pictures and told stories as the clouds came in and out, enjoying the company and scenery. But we'd like to give some personal shout outs from each of the folks here, so keep reading:
Happy Father's Day Dad, Ken, and Frank! Love you guys! Nicole, Emma, and Baby Jake- love and miss you guys! Mom- I am warm and happy. You can sleep now :) all of my love! Aunt Marie and Uncle Kelly- thanks for the prayers! Houston Nicole, thanks for all of the comments! Wish you and Shaun were here. Have a great trip Wade! Thinking of everyone down there! -Jen
Hope all is well at home, can't wait to catch up. Hopin for good weather as the clock is ticking. Happy Father's Day a little late. The views are great as is the food. Missing my little lady a lot. See u all soon.
-jake
Hi Oz, I love you and miss you. So happy and proud to be your father. See you soon.
On this Father. Day at camp 14 I'm thinking of my father. When you were alive. you would say you didn't ever want to know when I climb McKinley. I'm so glad that you are my gaurding angel on this trip. Dave Johnson
Happy father's Dad and Tommy! To all the other dads in my family! Love you all. Ty
Happy Father's Day dad! Thinking of you from a frosty 14 camp, hope you're enjoying a sultry southern Sunday! Love, Garrett
RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens & Bryan Hendrick
On The Map
June 15, 2014 - 11:57 pm PT
We celebrated Father's Day on
Mt. McKinley with a move from 11 Camp to 14 Camp. The team did a super solid job getting up here with enough gas to build a good camp just before the weather came in. It sure feels good to be in position to move a bit higher after a day of rest and training tomorrow. Now it's off to bed to enjoy a good night's rest after a big day in the mountains.
Thanks to all the Poppas out there, we love you.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
June 15, 2014 - 10:31 pm PT
Greetings from Camp 3 at 11,000'... We enjoyed a sunny and warm wake up today while we packed for a quick move up to
11,000 ft on Mt. McKinley. After a few hours on the trail in mostly whiteout conditions we arrived and set to work digging and building platforms and walls to protect our tents and posh (dining tent). The weather has been coming in and out all day with sun breaks punctuating a generally cloudy day. It's actually begun snowing moderately as I write this... Anyway, we left a sizable cache of food and fuel buried down at 9,600' that we hope to retrieve tomorrow morning after sleeping in and enjoying a more substantial breakfast. Breaking camp every morning for the last 3 days has meant quickie breakfasts like oatmeal or granola. We also got to enjoy a visit with some of our comrades from higher on the mountain as they came through camp. Good vibes all around.
All for now,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
On The Map
June 15, 2014 - 11:26 pm PT
We awoke this morning to blue skies and our excitement spiked. Unfortunately it quickly became apparent that this was only a trap door, the forecast is still looking poor for the next few days. We decided to stay put here at
14 camp, and by early afternoon the clouds and snow were back. The team is beginning to become discouraged and there is talk of heading down hill without a better weather forecast. That's all for now.
RMI Guide Eric Frank and the McKinley Upper West Rib Team
On The Map
June 15, 2014 - 7:37 pm
Greetings from 9,700' on Mt. McKinley. We woke up around three this morning, ate breakfast, and then packed up camp. We loaded up our backpacks and sleds and headed up to our next camp. We pushed hard for the early part of the morning so we could get to camp before the glacier got hot. It seems strange that we would be worried about the heat while climbing in the snowy mountains of Alaska. When the sun is out and the solar radiation is bouncing off of all of those white surfaces, it acts like an Easy Bake oven.
We put in a storm proof camp in a crevasse free zone and were tucked away by ten this morning. I suppose that begs the question about what we did the rest of the day.....hard work I assure you!
HAPPY FATHERS DAY to our wonderful dads!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team
On The Map
The Four Day Summit Climb led by
Walter Hailes reached the summit of
Mt. Rainier this morning around 7:40 am. The team spent an hour on the summit with clear skies around them. Walter reported a cloud deck at approximately 8,500’ and decreasing winds. The team began their descent just before 9 a.m.
Happy Father's Day!
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Wow you guys are rocking that mountain! I’m looking for your tracks on Google Earth…. ok not really. But WOW!
Posted by: James on 6/17/2014 at 8:06 pm
Encouragement to Bruce and Michael. Let me know if I have the right team.
Ron Holt
Posted by: Ron Holt on 6/17/2014 at 10:52 am
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