Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Finally with all of our gear, we left Mendoza this morning and headed for the mountains. The tree-lined streets of Mendoza gave away to carefully tended vineyards that produce the famed Malbec wine for which Mendoza is known. The road led into the foothills of the Andes, weaving along the edge of the thick red Mendoza River. The small hills soon grew to tall mountains and the road began passing through tunnels carved through the rock in the mountain sides. By midday we reached the ski outpost of Penitentes, a handful of kilometers from the Chilean border. Penitentes, no more than a few buildings with long slanted tat break the incessant winds, is a ski resort in the winter and a staging ground for Aconcagua climbers in the summer.
We spent the afternoon in Penitentes preparing our gear for the mountain. We set up and checked our tents, fired up the stoves, and packed our food and fuel into tight, well protected containers to endure the jostling of the mules on the approach to Base Camp. Once our loads were prepared, we ventured up the valley to Punta del Inca, a famous natural bridge created from geothermal springs that spans the entire river. Decades ago visitors would drive their cars across it. We ventured a bit further up the road to the mouth of the Horocones Valley where we caught our first views of Aconcagua since reaching Mendoza. Capped in clouds and new snow, the mountain's impressive south face loomed over the head of the Horocones Valley. It was an impressive, exciting, and humbling moment.
We are settled into our Hosteria now, enjoying the thin cold air, and happy to finally be in the mountains.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
Posted by: Casey Grom, Solveig Waterfall
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Elevation: 15,000
Hello again everyone
Today we had a very nice hike to help with our acclimatization on a nearby peak called Pichincha. It is one of the many local peaks that is situated above Quito and is used by many climbers to help adjust to the higher altitude here in Ecuador. We made use of the gondolas to help us gain access to around 12,500 ft then hiked the additional 2,500 ft to the summit. It took our team roughly 3 hours to gain the top after a little scrambling up the final bit to reach our high point thus far. It was a personal high point for a few of us, and the entire team did a fantastic job. After spending a bit of time on the summit and getting are photos we descended all the back to our hotel for a brief nap before dinner.
Everyone is in good spirits and looking forward to tomorrow.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew.
On The Map
Posted by: Linden Mallory
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Reaching Mendoza, Argentina proved to be a tougher challenge than we anticipated for our team. Between cancelled flights, storm systems, and mechanical delays we all finally reached Mendoza, albeit a day late. Tom, Thomas and I happened to be on the same plane from Santiago to Mendoza and we had a stunning flight over the Andes with views north and south down the range. A fresh layer of snow blanketed the higher elevations of the mountains and Aconcagua stood tall above the surrounding peaks, it's summit trailing a thin cloud on its leeward side.
When we stepped off the plane in Mendoza the temperatures were 70F and sunny, the austral summer in full swing with green trees lining the tarmac - a striking difference from the cold temperatures that we left at home! Unfortunately, the relief about reaching Mendoza was quickly muted when Tom and Thomas' bags failed to appear. Undeterred, we filed our paperwork and were assured that the bags were on the next flight. So we headed into Mendoza, found our hotel, took a nice shower, and kicked back to share stories while we waited. And we waited, and we waited, and we waited...
The next morning found us back at the airport looking for a little more information on where the bags could have gone. The answer: Paris, France. It turns out that while we were hoping to head to Aconcagua's Canaleta, the bags had something more like the Champs Élysées in mind. Even in the days of barcodes and instant tracking, it still takes awhile for lost baggage to find it's way across three continents from Europe to the U.S. and finally Argentina. We made the most of the extra days in Mendoza to get the rest of our team gear organized, secure our climbing permits, catch up on rest from the flights, wander Mendoza's tree-lined streets, and enjoy a glass or two of Malbec while hanging out in some of Mendoza's outdoor cafes.
Finally by 5pm this evening the last of the missing bags reached Mendoza. We've enjoyed our time in town, but are eager to head to the mountains. Tomorrow morning we will make the drive into the Andes to the small outpost of Penitentes, wedged just south of Aconcagua National Park and a handful of miles from the Chilean border. We'll sort our gear there and spend a night or two acclimatizing before we head into Plaza de Mulas, Base Camp on Aconcagua's western Ruta Normal. We will check in tomorrow night from the mountains!
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
We busted out of Base Camp today. Just over five hours of walking up the Branscomb Glacier put us at "low" camp, which isn't all that low at 9300 ft above sea level. Half way along the route we picked up our cached supplies and equipment from yesterday's carry. We were alone for our day of climbing, since the other teams in our rotation have about four days head-start on us. One of those, a German team, made the top today in a speedy ascent. They were early enough in the day that they came all the way back down to low camp. So we have neighbors. The other two teams are still at high camp hoping to get a shot at the summit tomorrow. We had great conditions for coming along directly under Vinson's giant western face, and we had perfect and unobstructed views of Mounts Gardner, Epperly and Shinn. Camp was built quickly and easily and after a filling dinner, the team retired to bask in the strong, late night sun. We'll get that sun until at least three AM, but then, while it is behind the mountain, our teeth will be chattering until 11 AM.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Larry
No one, I mean no one, can keep you down! See a mountain (that is 16,000 feet or higher) and Larry will be climbing it!! You are the poster-child for the next edition of “Younger Next Year”!!!
Please encourage those guides of yours to send some up close pics. We all want to see determined and smiling faces!
So neat to hear how well things are progressing!!
Stay safe and united!!!
Fred K
Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 12/13/2013 at 3:39 pm
It’s chilly in southern California but nothing compared to where you all are. Keep warm. What an adventure you are having. Larry, can’t wait to hear all about this trip. Love, Mom
Posted by: Gerri Seaton on 12/13/2013 at 11:16 am
Posted by: Casey Grom, Solveig Waterfall
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Hello from Quito everyone!
After some very long flights the team has arrived safe and sound here in Ecuador. We started our day with a group meeting where we shared a little about each other and discussed the plans for our expedition. We then headed out on a city tour which was mostly spent visiting the colonial old town and it's many churches built in the 17th century. We also visited the Virgin de Quito, which is a statue that overlooks the entire city and is similar in importance to our Statue of Liberty.
After our tour we headed back to our hotel to allow the team some time to rest before meeting and discussing the gear needed for our upcoming climbs. After making sure everyone was well equipped with the essentials we took a short walk to a nearby restaurant and patiently waited for all of our food to arrive. The food was delicious and everyone left with smiles on their faces.
It looks like a great group of people and everyone is looking forward to stretching their legs tomorrow.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
Brian,
Safe travels my friend and I wish I was with you! Enjoy the views for me!
Klay
Posted by: Klay on 12/16/2013 at 11:43 am
HI Brian
have a safe and fun time! We missed you at the Easterday family Christmas gathering!
Marcia and Dave send their best!
xo
Posted by: Kim on 12/14/2013 at 7:50 pm
We are back to great weather on Vinson. There was still a little wind apparent up high during the morning, and a few fog banks forming and dissipating down below, but by mid-day one could only describe it as "splitter". Perfect blue sky, big bright sun and no wind... splitter. Team 2 had a fine breakfast at Vinson Base and then we settled into a light training and review session. Bill, Sara, Fatima and Larry each have fine climbing resumes, so it was only necessary to run through some quick examples of crevasse rescue and anchoring systems to refresh memories. In the afternoon we went for our shakedown cruise: a carry of food and gear to half camp. It was great to stretch legs and get some views of the surrounding humongous peaks. We were back to Base by around 7 PM, in time for dinner in the strong evening sun. We turned in for bed confident that the sunshine would keep tents warm well into the night. Sometime after one or two AM the sun will go behind the mountain and life will get cool, but by then we'll be sleeping... Dreaming of the move to low camp tomorrow.
Word is that the Ilyushin is flying to Union tonight, so Team 1 (Kara, Juan, Piotr, and Spencer) should have breakfast in South America. Bon Voyage.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Larry and the gang: Glad to know the weather is cooperating and hope it continues. What tales you can tell us when you return. Best wishes to all! Gerri S.
Posted by: Gerri Seaton on 12/12/2013 at 5:18 pm
Larry and Crew
Great to hear how your expedition is progressing so well! Hope the weather continues to be good. Excited to hear how your safely and successful move up the mountain!! Keep each other warm and best of success!!!
Fred K
Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 12/12/2013 at 6:35 am
The RMI Vinson teams traded places this evening. It was a day of wait-and-see as far as flying was concerned. High winds at Union Glacier, high winds in the intended flight path through the Ellsworth Mountains, and big winds that we could see on the upper slopes of Vinson. But things began to calm as the day went on and there was continued hope that the flight would happen before the day was out. I'd just sat down to dinner with group one at Vinson Base when news came that group two was in the air headed our way. Kara, Juan, Piotr, and Spencer packed fast and watched the ski equipped twin otter make a perfect uphill landing on the Branscomb. It was great to see Bill, Sarah, Fatima, and Larry emerge from the plane. The two teams mingled and compared notes as the plane was unloaded and reloaded. We were all happy to hear that team 2 was treated to such a fine time during their several days stay at Union. And I believe team 2 was relieved to see that team 1 had managed to come through a Vinson climb appearing happy and no worse for the wear.
Then it was load up time and I said goodbye to team 1. We shared some wonderful times together. Rumor has it that there are Ilyushin flights scheduled as early as tomorrow, so perhaps they'll be luckier on their Antarctic exit than they were on their entrance. Team 2 bedded down for the night at VBC... Ready to climb.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
It’s great to hear that team 2 had an exciting plane trip and is now at Vinson Base. Have a great climb Larry.
Posted by: Mark on 12/11/2013 at 6:38 am
Enjoy Vinson! Hope the team has a great experience down there!
Love to Fatima,
Peter
Posted by: Peter Williamson on 12/11/2013 at 4:51 am
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The storm finally hit. Crazy clouds were forming over the upper mountain as we went to bed last night. The morning at Vinson Base was devoid of sunshine and chock full of newly falling snow. It is actually a rare thing to get five inches of powder snow in this place, like rain in the desert, but that is what we got. Flying -either to get the successful summiteers out or to bring in our next team of climbers from Union Glacier- was not happening. It was a hunker down day. The word was that the teams up the mountain were doing the same. Rest and relaxation wasn't exactly an unwelcome plan for the day for my team. Most had sore feet and tired knees after the last few big days of up and down walking. Each climber is ready to be moving on when conditions permit, of course. Juan wanted to be sure that Eva Maria knew he was wishing her a very happy 21st birthday from Antarctica.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Five inches of powder snow? Is it time for skiing? Be safe and hunker down! Thinking of you.
Posted by: Mom/Grandma on 12/10/2013 at 8:16 am
Larry: Your climbing report card is full of A’s - Antarctica and Alaska and Aconcagua…Congratulation…Post pics please…Waltero
Posted by: waltero glover on 12/10/2013 at 7:03 am
The day went pretty well on schedule. We were up at around 8 AM at high camp, thankful that the winds had not yet found our tents. It was obviously kicking a bit higher, with streamers of snow blowing off ridges and frozen dust devils dancing across our ascent route of the day before. But we were granted calm and sunny conditions in which to eat breakfast and pack for the descent. We bailed out of high camp at 11:20 and carefully picked our way down the fixed lines. Coming into Low Camp was a bit of a shock as there were dozens of climbers there and we'd gotten so used to having the mountain to ourselves. Folks were hanging there rather than ascending since forecasts say that the winds will build and dominate the upper mountain for several days. We shuffled our loads, repacked and headed down to Vinson Base, arriving by 5:30 PM. No flights back to Union today as the winds have the pilots hunkering down, so we set tents and enjoyed a victory dinner together at 7000 ft on the Branscomb Glacier.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Congratulations, Larry. It looks really cold in the photos, but I could not tell how technical the climb was. Barbara in Dallas
Posted by: Barbara gunnin on 12/9/2013 at 11:04 am
Juan
Otro éxito mas y un ciclo cerrado por fin.
Recibe un fuerte abrazo de Mary,Beatriz y Alejandra
Nos vemos para festejar!!!
Posted by: alejandro on 12/9/2013 at 9:13 am
Safe and sound at high camp, once again. It was such a nice day that we spent an hour on the Vinson summit. The trip back down took three hours and so we arrived back at high camp around 8:30 PM, making for 11 hours round trip on the day. Almost as soon as we reached camp, the weather began to change, with glacier fog down below and patches of cumulus forming around the upper slopes of the big peaks. Light winds have begun to stir the tents. We'll now hope they don't turn into heavy winds until after we've gotten down the fixed ropes in the morning. We are all feeling pretty fortunate to have had the day we had on the Roof of Antarctica.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
RMI Guide Dave Hahn from the Vinson summit!
On The Map
Muchas felicidades padre mío, que bueno que ya lograste uno mas de tus objetivos te mandó un fuerte abrazo!!!
Juan, tu hijo preferido
Posted by: Juan on 12/9/2013 at 3:09 pm
Muchas felicidades padre mío, que bueno que ya lograste uno mas de tus objetivos te mandó un fuerte abrazo!!!
Posted by: Juan Glenn on 12/9/2013 at 2:57 pm
How come your going up the Mulas side as oppossed to the Vacas valley?
Posted by: Randy Christofferson on 12/14/2013 at 10:17 am
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