Entries from Expedition Dispatches

DHAULAGIRI: Team Has Established Camp 2

April 28, 2014

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Geoff Schellens, Jake Beren

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Guide News

Hello, This is the Dhaulagiri Climbing Team and once again we wanted to apologize for the lack for the lack of communication, but as we said before we have been having a few problems with the satellite “sat” phone. But, right now we can send a dispatch. We have been discovering the worst weather that we have ever witnessed. This Himalayan peak is pretty much keeping us working really, really hard. We are getting snow storms every day. The only time we have not had afternoon storms have been when we have all day storms! But, that hasn’t kept us from climbing. The last two days we have been working very hard being the only team on the mountain breaking trail to establish Camp 2. In the next few days we are going to be looking at the route between Camp 2 and Camp 3 which is one of the hardest parts of the climb. If that is a go we’ll have a summit bid. Like I said, we have been receiving anywhere from a foot to two feet of snow every other afternoon and it has made our job hard. A couple of other teams have arrived, but they are not as ambitious to work up high yet. We are not going to quit until our plane leaves. We have a little bit less than 10 days here to make it happen. We have a really good weather forecast and will keep our fingers crossed that we are going to have a shot at it. So if the sat phone keeps working for us we will keep you posted as much as we can. So please keep your fingers crossed for us. This is Dhaulagiri and we hope you all take care. We hope to communicate good news soon! RMI Guide Elias deAndres Martos

Dhaulagiri Team checking in April 28th.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Crested Butte is keeping fingers crossed! Be Safe!

Posted by: Jessica on 4/29/2014 at 9:57 am

Jake must be enjoying the powder skiing.

Posted by: Pete Sowar on 4/29/2014 at 7:19 am

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Mt. Everest: Hahn and team finish their trek

April 27, 2014

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Billy Nugent, JJ Justman

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Billy Nugent led the way out of Namche, down the big hill and into the valley of a thousand farms and small villages. We made it in six hours to a comfy tea house next to the airstrip in Lukla. The rain caught us for the last hour or so, but didn't actually bother anybody enough to make them put a raincoat on. We ate the afternoon away in our new low-altitude home. Mark Tucker made a surprise appearance for dinner, having finished up his duties at Basecamp today and figured out a way to heli-hike in minutes what had filled up three days for the rest of us. We are now poised for an early wake-up and some airport hustle that may or may not get us to Kathmandu by fixed-wing aircraft. All depends on the weather. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Nicole LoBiondo: I hope you have safe travels back home and I am so happy to hear that you and your team are safe! I’ll see you soon! Much love, Sammy

Posted by: Sam Borneman on 4/28/2014 at 8:25 pm

I hope you all have safe travels back home! I can’t wait to hear all about your adventure at Copper Canyon with a margarita! And of course the salad with the bacon, fish tacitos and the steak!!!! Love ya Nicole!

Posted by: Lisa Taddeo on 4/28/2014 at 7:13 pm

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Mt. Everest: Dave Hahn & Team Back to Namche Bazaar

April 26, 2014

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman, Billy Nugent, Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 11,300'

Today was a big walking day, up and down the hills of the Khumbu Valley from Pheriche to Namche. Right out of Pheriche, where we started hiking at 8 AM, we crossed the river, climbed a hill and turned into the inhabited portions of the Khumbu. We turned our backs on rocks and ice and walked down into rhododendrons, pine trees and villages. JJ led the way as we rolled through Shomare, Pangboche, Deboche, Thyangboche, and Phunky Tonga. We got hot enough to sweat a bit, which was a novelty, we passed a million trekkers and heard about a million helicopter laps as the B2's and B3's flew over us on their way back and forth to Everest Base. Finally, at midday, we got working our way up the giant dusty hill that would put us on level with Namche. It took us about six hours to reach Namche -still quite familiar to us since we spent three days acclimating in town on the way in. This time... no acclimatization needed... so fine to be below 12,000 ft for the first time in close to a month. The team enjoyed a fine evening at comfortable Camp De Base. One more big day of hiking to go before Lukla International. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Nicole Lobiondo: Safe travels from Lukla to you all! Nicole H.

Posted by: Nicole Howard on 4/28/2014 at 6:27 am

Hey Spencer, So sorry you weren’t able to make it this time. You’ll be back under better circumstances and the summit will be that much more sweet. Safe journey home!
Uncle Matt

Posted by: Matt Pietro on 4/27/2014 at 12:40 pm

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Mt. Everest: Dave Hahn Checks in from Pheriche

April 25, 2014

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman, Billy Nugent, Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 13,950'

Our last night in base was made dramatic by a lightning storm rolling through. A few inches of snow fell thick and fast, making morning, bright, fresh and beautiful. At 11:15 AM we filed out of the ghost town that Mount Everest Basecamp has become. The climbing team, accompanied by Lam Babu, made good time in losing three and a half thousand feet to reach Pheriche in four hours and forty-five minutes. We each paid Everest's summit a couple of last longing looks during the march, but then paid more attention to the task at hand; walking an uneven, slippery mountain trail while dodging trekkers, yaks and porters. The gang stuck together wonderfully, demonstrating what a close knit and fit climbing team we've become. With each village on the descent, through Gorak Shep, Lobuche and Thukla, we each noticed the thicker and easier air. We coughed less and walked faster. All enjoyed seeing the baby yaks trying out their legs on our homestretch into Pheriche. Tonight, we are indoors again... safe, enjoying each other's company, and quite comfortable. We hope things are going well for Mark Tucker and the bulk of our Sherpa Team, back at EBC for a last couple of days to button things up properly. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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What a pitiful attitude Bob has!! Wishing your team a safe journey back home. That is very admirable for Mark to have stayed back with the Sherpa team! Again it says a lot about the quality of a team you all are!! God Bless each and everyone of you!!!!! Tammy

Posted by: Tammy Doppenberg on 4/26/2014 at 4:47 pm

Oh Spen,
Tuesday’s not gone. There’s a lifetime of Tuesdays left for you. That mountain is not going anywhere. You’re young and strong and we got your back. Love you, Weasel,
Momma

Posted by: jan pipkin on 4/25/2014 at 1:46 pm

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Mt. Everest: RMI Expedition Ends

April 23, 2014

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman, Billy Nugent, Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

We began the day with hope that we might be getting closer to resuming climbing. Billy and JJ took the climbers hiking while Mark Tucker and I met with a number of other climb leaders and Sherpa sirdars. Those meetings convinced us that the right course was to give up on Mount Everest for Spring 2014. In future dispatches, we'll try to quantify the reasons for such a decision. But for now, suffice to say that the risks outweigh the possibility of success. This week has been a roller coaster of emotion for many of us, from the horror that came with the avalanche of April 18, to the confusion that followed it regarding the right course to take for balancing respect for the dead, concern for team safety and summit ambitions. Following the accident, our list of serious obstacles to an Everest summit was always significant, but we believed it worthwhile to continue looking for some way forward. Our climbers, Sherpas, guides, and outfitters had put too much into the planning and execution of this trip to let go of the goal with less than our best effort. We've given that now. We'll start heading for home soon. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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RMI guides make great decisions. Dave, Billy, JJ. This is why I’ve climbed a number of summits with RMI—you literally are trusting them with your life to make good decisions.

While I’m sure this was an extremely difficult decision, I believe it was the right one. Sometimes you have to listen to what the mountain (and circumstances) are telling you.

Safe travels home.

Posted by: Dan on 4/25/2014 at 7:38 am

So sorry for the loss and for the tough situation it put you all. I’m glad you are safe and coming home. JJ—you’ll have many, many more climbs….

Posted by: Randy Christofferson on 4/25/2014 at 5:23 am

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Mt. Everest: Mark Tucker Checks in

April 21, 2014

Posted by: JJ Justman, Billy Nugent, Dave Hahn, Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

The skies were sunny with warm temperatures today at Everest Base Camp. Our climbers took a few short hikes around the lower glacier and then a bit of cards and board games to keep our minds busy. There is community gathering for a remembrance scheduled for tomorrow. RMI Guide & Base Camp Manager Mark Tucker

On The Map

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Nicole Lobiondo: Hope you are okay during this tough time. My Dad and I took our Walk in Long Branch and drove by your house. All looks good! Mufasa must be a good guard cat if he is there! Thinking of you and the team and wishing you all positive thoughts for what lies ahead. XOXO, Nicole

Posted by: Nicole Howard on 4/23/2014 at 6:11 am

Nicole, Be safe with your team. Love you Sandy

Posted by: Sandy Murray on 4/22/2014 at 6:13 pm

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Mt. Everest: Meetings Attended by Hahn & Tucker While the Climbing Team Hikes to Pumori Camp 1

April 20, 2014

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman, Billy Nugent, Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

Still at Everest Base. Still a very difficult situation for all involved. JJ and Billy led the climbing team on a hike to Pumori Camp One today, where they enjoyed awesome views of Mount Everest (during our hike to the same point last week we had no views due to an ill-timed and swirling snowstorm). Mark Tucker and I attended a series of somewhat tense and serious meetings between team leaders, Sherpas, and the few government representatives present in camp. It is very difficult to say what will happen going forward but one cannot under emphasize the enormity of the tragedy to the Sherpa community. Each team, if it has not suffered death and loss directly, has lost relatives, close friends and neighbors to the icefall avalanche of April 18. In too many cases, survivors saw the friends perish before their eyes or else they dealt with the difficult aftermath of body recovery personally. Our Sherpa partners love their jobs and love to climb, but nobody is climbing now and all are struggling to come to terms with how to proceed in a way that honors those lost and protects those left alive. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Dhaulagiri: RMI Guide Team Checks in from Base Camp

April 20, 2014

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Guide News

Elevation: 15,584'

Hello, this is the Dhaulagiri climbing team on Sunday, the 20th. First of all we want to apologize for the lack of communication, but we're having serious problems with our SAT phone and charger and we are trying to solve that problem. We are also saddened by the news that arrived to base camp here of the tragedy on Everest. We want to send our condolences to the community of the Sherpa involved in this tragedy. Our progress here on the mountain continues. We have been able to reach almost Camp 2. We have been very unlucky with the weather. Until right now we have been the only team on the mountain, but we were able to make a carry to almost Camp 2 and spend a few nights at Camp 1. Right now the weather looks like it is favorable to us and we are hoping to take a few days of rest and make some more progress up high, hopefully getting to Camp 2 or 3 in the next week or so. Getting ready for a future summit push around the beginning of May. So we'll keep you posted on that and we hope everybody is doing well. We'll try to keep you posted as much as we can with the limited communications that we have here. Regards to all from Dhaulagiri Base Camp. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Dhaulagiri Base Camp.

Mt. Everest: Dave Hahn Calls in from Everest Base Camp

April 19, 2014

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Billy Nugent, JJ Justman

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

Hey this is Dave Hahn calling from Everest Base Camp. Today was another difficult day dealing with the tragedies from yesterday. The team members stayed in Base Camp today, it was cloudy, a little snowy, a little cold. Three of our Sherpa team, Tshering, Lam Babu and Pemba helicoptered up, with others, to the accident site to continue the difficult and dangerous work that some of us were engaged in yesterday of well, body retrieval at this point. There are still three missing, is my understanding, and they were not able to find those three. But they did a great job in going up and working hard and trying to make a difference and we are very proud of them. The team is well, obviously, it is a difficult situation, everything is somewhat in limbo. There is word of a number of teams that are pulling the plug and are not going to climb. But we will see how these next couple of days play out. I told my climbers to be ready for anything. We will keep you informed. Bye now. RMI Guide Dave Hahn

RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in from Everest Base Camp.

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Happy Easter to all. bc

Posted by: bc on 4/20/2014 at 7:19 am

Good day, I learnt about the tragedy few days ago. Even though I have never been to Nepal, I have always interest in the Everest. Please stay strong. My thoughts and prayers with the sherpas and their families.

Best regards
Kok Wai
Singapore

Posted by: Kok Wai on 4/20/2014 at 6:25 am

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Mt. Rainier: Winter Seminar Wrap-up a Great Week of Training

April 18, 2014

Posted by: Brent Okita, Zeb Blais, Ben Liken, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,060'

RMI Guides Brent Okita, Zeb Blais and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter Team finished up a great week of training. The team has started their descent and will be back at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon. Congratulations Team!

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

DHAULAGIRI: Team Has Established Camp 2

Mt. Everest: Hahn and team finish their trek

On The Map

Mt. Everest: Dave Hahn & Team Back to Namche Bazaar

Mt. Everest: Dave Hahn Checks in from Pheriche

On The Map

Mt. Everest: RMI Expedition Ends

Mt. Everest: Mark Tucker Checks in

On The Map

Mt. Everest: Meetings Attended by Hahn & Tucker While the Climbing Team Hikes to Pumori Camp 1

Dhaulagiri: RMI Guide Team Checks in from Base Camp

Mt. Everest: Dave Hahn Calls in from Everest Base Camp

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Winter Seminar Wrap-up a Great Week of Training

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