Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Elbrus: JJ and Team Heading for Summit

July 12, 2014

Posted by: JJ Justman

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside

Elevation: 12,000'

July 11, 2014 - 4:31 pm PT Hey Everyone – This is JJ Justman with team #1 here on Mt. Elbrus. It’s about 3 am in the morning. We have the crampons on, it’s a breathless night here for climbing. We are about to jump on the snow-cat, which will give us a little lift higher up on the mountain. It’s a gorgeous evening, it’s going to be a gorgeous day tomorrow. We will touch base again. And I am pretty darn positive we will be doing that from the highest mountain here in Europe. Take care everyone, talk to you soon. RMI Guide JJ Justman

RMI Guide JJ Justman checks in just before summit attempt.

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Sitting Tight at 14,000’

July 12, 2014

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Ben Liken, Sean Collon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

July 11, 2014 - 11:04 pm PT There wasn't much reason to get up early for climbing this morning at 14,200 ft. It snowed throughout the night and continued through the morning, piling up to about 8 or 10 inches. Luckily there wasn't much wind with it though, so we slept well. Our radio conversations with the folks hanging at 17K revealed that they hadn't gotten snow, but had gotten plenty of wind. The consensus seemed to be that if the weather eased, folks would be bailing out of high camp and quitting the climb. We made the best of calm conditions at our camp to get out for some exercise. The gang built snow walls and dug tunnels and watched wind and cloud buffet the upper mountain. Things did ease in the afternoon and our friends on high began descending. Ben Liken counted 43 climbers eventually making their way down the fixed lines. That number represented five different guided teams from three different companies. They'll head for the airstrip tomorrow, leaving us alone at 14,200 and virtually alone on the mountain. One guided team of three (two guides, one climber) remains at 17,200 hoping for better luck, it would be great if we could get up there to keep them company. Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Dave. With a good supply I know the weather will clear soon & you will get the team up for a really awesome summit. safe travels & post more photos.

Posted by: Mary on 7/13/2014 at 1:26 am

Hi Dave -

I’ve been following your teams journey. This latest dispatch reminds me of when we were down on Vinson and ended up being the only team on the mountain.

You’ve probably already heard from RMI HQ that the latest issue of Outside magazine has a large article about what happened at Everest this year.

I’ll keep my fingers crossed that you guys get a weather break and are able to continue upwards.

-Larry Seaton

Posted by: larry seaton on 7/12/2014 at 7:26 am

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Peru Seminar: Elias & Team At the Trailhead

July 11, 2014

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

The team is back at the trailhead in the village of Pashpa. The bus is waiting to shuttle us back to Huaraz as soon as the donkeys make it down from the Ishinca Valley Base Camp. Tomorrow I will send a final dispatch and some photos. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Way to go Lucy! We think you are amazing! We are all so proud of you. We love you and cannot wait to hear all about your trip.

Posted by: Erle, Mom, Donald & John on 7/16/2014 at 1:22 pm

Yea, Kim! hope it was a great experience - can’t wait to hear from you! love, momma

Posted by: Jane lubow on 7/11/2014 at 4:14 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Teams on the Summit!

July 11, 2014

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Mike Haugen along with the Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise led by Geoff Schellens reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. As of 7 am both teams were on their descent and approaching the top of Disappointment Cleaver en route back to Camp Muir. Conditions are beautiful this morning with warm temperatures and light winds reported from Camp Muir (10,080'). Congratulations to today's climbing teams!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations team. I was so intent on getting my post climb comma sleep I did not get to say a proper good by to you all. It was a pleasure climbing with all of you. Truly an inspiring group of folks to climb with. There was never a doubt that this entire team was going to make it “up top”. Thank you all for your inspiration. Thank you Scott for the post climb refreshment drink. Thank you Mike, Josh, and my rope team leader JM for taking such great care of us.
PS: I did wake up from my 10 hour comma sleep and thought, yes, I want to do this again!

Posted by: David Fruin on 7/12/2014 at 7:58 am

Helen and Roger, I hope you are having the time of your life. I’ve been thinking about you and praying for your safety. Stay warm and I am sure you are enjoying the beautiful view. Hugs to you both!!!

Posted by: Vickie Davis on 7/12/2014 at 5:50 am

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Mt. Elbrus: Justman & Team Ready for Summit Attempt

July 11, 2014

Posted by: JJ Justman

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside

Elevation: 12,000'

July 11, 2014 - 4:00 am PT Good day RMI followers. The news today is sun, sun and more sun! We spent the morning reviewing mountaineering techniques in preparation for The Big Day on Mt. Elbrus! And speaking of the big day, rumor is it is going to be gorgeous! Keep your fingers crossed for us. We are all doing great and having a blast. It's nice when a team that is diverse in age can all joke around, have fun and enjoy the mountains together. The big item on my plate is deciding what song to wake the team up with. It's either Eye of the Tiger or TNT. If you have any other suggestions let me know. Stay tuned for a call on the summit! RMI Guide JJ Justman

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Safe travels on your summit day. Hope you have perfect weather. xox

Posted by: Bonny Rogers on 7/11/2014 at 7:49 pm

I think you should go with “Let’s Have A Kiki”. Have a great climb JJ and team!

Posted by: Kara Stinson on 7/11/2014 at 3:23 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Staying Put at 14 Camp

July 11, 2014

Posted by: Ben Liken, Dave Hahn, Sean Collon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

July 10, 2014 - 10:32 pm PT Hey all, Today we awoke to just about the same weather we went to bed with yesterday, that is mostly cloudy with a little wind and snow. Knowing that we weren't walking up hill in it, we had a multiple-course breakfast of bacon, fried tortillas with sugar, bagels, eggs, and even some sausage gravy. By the time we finished up the weather had trended from poor to stormy. With winds and snow on the rise, everyone helped in building some walls and re-anchoring our cook tent. Looking above to high camp we radioed with some of the other teams. They said they were in pretty much the same weather and were staying put. The whole team is keeping vibes positive as we wait for Denali to stop what it does best.....storm, storm, storm. All the best, RMI Guide Ben Liken

On The Map

North Cascades: Davis & Team Check In from Boston Basin

July 10, 2014

Posted by: Leon Davis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

Elevation: 6,200'

Hi, this is Leon calling from Boston Basin Camp. We had a beautiful day getting here and just enjoying an evening after dinner. All is well. Tomorrow we are having a training day and planning to head up and climb Sharkfin Tower. Tomorrow's weather looks great so we are psyched. I'll talk to you guys tomorrow. Bye. RMI Guide Leon Davis

RMI Guide Leon Davis calls in from Boston Basin.

Peru Seminar: Elias & Team Summit Tocllaraju!

July 10, 2014

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

Elevation: 18,143'

Hello this is the Peru climbing team. Elias speaking, Robby next to me, and the climbers are taking a break at 5,000 meters. We were supposed to have called from the summit, but heavy winds and trying to get down delayed the phone call. But we have finished our last rappel. It was a pretty interesting one- a free-hanging rappel over bergschrund. We are taking a break just to anticipate the remaining ground, which is a pretty easy travel to Camp 1, from where we will be picking up our gear and heading out to base camp. We are pretty excited about that, but we still have a couple hours to go on the glacier. We just wanted to let you know everything went well with the last of our climbs, the most challenging one, Tocllaraju, 6,023 meters. We rocked it; we are pretty tired but psyched. The route has been as challenging as any of the two guys that are here who have climbed it, have ever seen it. We are happy with the work done. We will let you know more when we can post tomorrow when we arrive in Huaraz, where we can post some pictures. Thank you for all of the support to all of you who have been following our blog. The next post will be from Huaraz tomorrow. That's it for now, 2 pm on Thursday. Tocllaraju! The Peru Seminar will be over soon. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calling in after Tocllaraju summit.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

WOW!! Must have been a glorious feeling…
both at the top and coming down.
Stay safe, MOM(B)

Posted by: MOM-B on 7/11/2014 at 7:19 pm

Way to go, Underbiktor!

Posted by: The Franktown Blochers on 7/11/2014 at 6:29 pm

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Forbidden Peak: Fixmer and Team Reach Summit

July 10, 2014

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

Elevation: 8,630'

In the North Cascades, RMI Guide Lindsay Fixmer and team reached the summit of Forbidden Peak via the West Ridge. Lindsay reported perfect weather during their summit bid and good route conditions. Way to Climb!

Alpamayo: Frank & Team Summit!

July 10, 2014

Posted by: Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

Elevation: 19,512'

Good morning, this is RMI Guide Eric Frank checking in from the summit of Alpamayo. It's just before noon here in Peru. We had a pretty amazing climb today. Woke up to gorgeous weather, clear skies. Everyone made it to the top. We are just about to start rappelling down. We will leave a message and let you know we got down safely. Thanks for following along. Bye. Update: July 10, 2014 2:21 PM PT The team is back at high camp safe and sound. They are packing up to head down to base camp and are looking forward to an amazing meal prepared by their base camp cook. RMI Guide Eric Frank

RMI Guide Eric Frank calls in from the Alpamayo summit!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations Eric, looks like you and Jesse had a summit on the same day. Great job, safe travels home.

Posted by: Paul G. Thummel on 7/11/2014 at 7:10 pm

Mike, Scott and Eric—We’re so proud of all of you!

“He made my feet like hinds’ feet, and set me secure on the heights.” Psalm 18:33

Posted by: pam proctor on 7/10/2014 at 11:33 am

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Elbrus: JJ and Team Heading for Summit

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Sitting Tight at 14,000’

On The Map

Peru Seminar: Elias & Team At the Trailhead

Mt. Rainier: Teams on the Summit!

Mt. Elbrus: Justman & Team Ready for Summit Attempt

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Staying Put at 14 Camp

On The Map

North Cascades: Davis & Team Check In from Boston Basin

Peru Seminar: Elias & Team Summit Tocllaraju!

Forbidden Peak: Fixmer and Team Reach Summit

Alpamayo: Frank & Team Summit!

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