Entries from Expedition Dispatches

The team awoke bright and early today to eat a quick breakfast and start heading to La Malinche, our first objective of the trip. We were treated with sprawling views of the Mexican countryside as well as our first main objective, Ixtaccihuatl. We were thankful to stretch our leg and lungs as we hiked through the forest of Malinche, a welcome change from the urban jungle of Mexico City. Unfortunately, that’s where our hike ended, just below 13,000 ft, due to incoming weather. Though we didn’t reach our objective, we did get to our highest elevation of the trip so far, hiked with stray dogs that we named Beavus, Butthead, and Hank and ate a delicious carne asada for dinner. Now we rest and get ready to head to Ixta basecamp tomorrow.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli

The team enjoyed an evening kayak near the large icebergs on Lago Grey yesterday. Today we had a windy but scenic 6.5 miles through the 2013 wildfire scar. The terrain is a series of rocky bluffs and valleys covered in burned and sun bleached trees. While holding onto thier hats, some were able to get pictures of Glacier Grey. Some, decided to forge ahead and get out of the wind. This Refugio is located on Lago Pehoe pay way) which has a brilliant turquoise color. We got our first views of the Cuernos (horns) of the Paine Massif. A short stay here tonight and we’ll head up the French Valley tomorrow morning on our way to Francis Domes. 

RMI Guide Mike King

Saturday, February 12, 2022

As I write this from my top bunk in the third row of five from the hypoxic altitude of 15,100 feet, I have a strange nostalgia of a sixth grade slumber party.   With nine grownups stacked side by side, telling jokes and having laughs, I wonder if we aren’t actually at RMI’s Ecuadorian summer camp.   

Hannah was a camp counselor in her younger years but come tomorrow, our activities should resemble more of a mountaineer trip than that bad 80s flick. 

But, before we put the cart before the donkey, let’s hear about today.  

It started famously with chirping birds, hot coffee and a lovely breakfast.   This got everyone all fired up for our mega shopping extravaganza at Otavalo, Ecuador’s largest craft market.  After we crushed our huevos, we then needed to carry our big bags down the street a ways to load up because the day before, Hector our driver, accidentally ripped a chunk of the entrance gate off with the bike rack and was put in the penalty box 50 yards away.   Wait, I don’t think Ecuador has hockey.    

Once loaded we left our beautiful hacienda and our brave group of summer camp mountaineers dispersed into the stalls of color and crafts ready to finagle the deal of a lifetime.   I highly doubt this happened but with wobbly espanol I think we all managed something.  Don’t worry significant others, you’ll probably get a gift.  

After the market we had lunch at a sandwich shop shared with some “hot and rugged” older bikers, (that wasn’t my quote) and then proceeded  to the secret rendezvous point where we did a covert transfer from the bus to the 4x4s.  

It was here we finally found some real adventure!  Fifteen miles up the windy cobblestone road, we hit a mud bog likely to make any redneck proud! With our trucks tearing up the track, only to fail 30 feet from gripable salvation, we worried we might not make it to the hut.   I think we cheered, never fear Jaime is here! And he finally won the mud track battle.  With all the trucks passed the crux we had a relatively smooth go up to the refugio.   

A fine dinner of coke marinated chicken and water grass soup readied us for bed, so here we are.  Snuggled up just waiting for someone to start snoring!  

Find out tomorrow if that happened.   

RMI Guide Adam Knoff

We did it. The Team has arrived in Mexico City safe and with all of our gear. We just wrapped up our first official team meeting where we discussed logistics, gear, and our various experiences today. Some of us enjoyed sightseeing, some of us saw a sword fight in the park, and others got some much needed rest. The group is in high spirits and ready for the adventure ahead. 

Now we’re off to go eat tacos and enjoy a good nights rest.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli, Abby Westling and Team

Saturday, February 12, 2022 4:09 AM PST

Hola Amigos,

We woke with an excitement in the air, today we were leaving the city. After a few nights in Quito it was time for us to head north to our next destination. Bellies full of continental breakfast, we gathered all of our belongings, squeezed into the tiny elevators and stacked our duffels in the lobby to await our driver, Hector. 

A two-hour drive through the countryside was a welcome rest from yesterday’s hike. The van winded up cobblestone streets until the road was covered with water from the overflowing lake. We had made it to our activity for the day. It was time to stretch our legs up Fuya Fuya and get our heart rates up. Our bodies are working hard to adjust to the altitudes and be ready for the three volcanos awaiting us. Beautiful views, pretty flora, and mysterious clouds provided great backdrops. 

Slippery grass and muddy steps led us to the top where we were greeted by a large group of Deutsch high schoolers. After snatching our summit photo, we made our way back down to the van, some with muddier butts than others. A few team members took the opportunity to take a cold dip in the lake because when at Fuya Fuya why not. Bellies growling, we made it back to town for some pizza before we loaded back in the van, up more steep cobblestone streets to our hacienda. 

The hacienda is beautiful with a peaceful presence overlooking the town below. The team enjoyed some downtime before rallying together for some learning. Tonight’s entertainment before dinner was learning about knots and hitches, a building block for when we learn about crevasse rescue. A delicious dinner wrapped up the day before we all went back to our rooms to pack for tomorrow. Tomorrow we head to our first snow covered volcano.

With nerves and excitement surrounding us, we enjoy one final night with Wi-Fi before heading into the mountains.

Buenas noches,

RMI Guides Adam, Hannah, and Team

Saturday, Februdary 12, 2022 2:38 AM PT

We had a windy but dry night at Perros camp. After a quick breakfast we headed up towards John Gardner Pass at 4000’. While it’s not high in elevation the proximity to glaciers and large alpine peaks makes you feel much higher.

The trail winds up through the forest for a bit then begins the ascent over rocky ground. The wind was howling across the Grey glacier as we dropped down the other side of the pass. From one side you see a lush, forested valley and the other is made up of the glaciers that comprise the terminus of the Southern ice fields. This is when the difficulty sets in. The descent from the pass is harmless but once inside the trees the trail is a mess of poorly maintained and eroded steps, toe jamming declines and lots of roots and other obstacles that keep you focused only a few feet in front of you. Your reward for several hours of frustration is spectacular views of the glaciated valley and 3 suspension bridges that will bring out the inner Indiana Jones in anyone.

We got to Refugio Grey in good style but with sore feet and an insatiable thirst. After showers, many tubes of Chilean Pringles like chips, a loaf of bread we had dinner and continued the festivities.

Today we’ll take a day off from walking and enjoy an evening kayak tour on Lago Grey. There’s a lot of calved glacial ice damned near the Refugio which be great to see from water level.

Thanks for following along. 

RMI Guide Mike King & Team

Buenos Dias Bloglandia,

I’m sure many of you out there have been gnawing on your steering wheels and passing up Instagram to check on today’s happenings of the Ecuador skills seminar. Well, wait no longer because the moment has arrived. 

Beginning with last nights dinner (food and drink report) the team all gathered around a big table in a classic Ecuadorian restaurant, sharing stories and laughs eventually waiting for Dan’s guinea pig to arrive, his main course.  After realizing it didn’t really taste like chicken, we all focused back into our potatoes and meat happy we didn’t follow the adventurous Dan’s lead. 

Come morning we all returned to the table for breakfast while preparing for our bus ride to the giant volcano just out of the city where our first team climb would take place.  

After 15 minutes of solid Quito traffic we arrived at the trailhead.  Except here, as it should be on all mountains, the trailhead is actually the ticket office to the cable car waiting to zip us up the first 3,000 feet so our legs won’t get too tired.  No one botched getting into the moving car so we were off to a good start.  

With swirling clouds and occasional views of the city thousands of feet below, we all made quick and steady progress up to the 14,000 foot mark.  Soon afterwards my GPS began to rock a lady Gaga song as we broke the 15,000 foot barrier, marking the altitude PR for half the team.  Thirty minutes later we were all giving high 5’s on the summit of our first real mountain.   Pichincha Rucu, 15,300 feet!

The descent was uneventful except for a hummingbird which almost flew full speed into my face but crisis averted due to my lightning reflexes.  Maybe that’s exaggerated.  

Anyhoo, the team did great and gets the green light from both Hannah and me to climb again tomorrow.  I expect the same results barring anything loco!!

If Yellowstone wasn’t enough, give Ozark a try.  It will get you through until tomorrow.

RMI Guide Adam Knoff

The Team was thankful to be in the Refugio last night as the wind & rain approached “white squall” intensity. Ships would have been listing in Lago Dickson. The building shook and poorly trimmed windows whistled. We enjoyed a dry but chilly morning hiking up hill to enter the Perros river valley. Most of the day was spent in the heavily canopied forest with occasional views of the surrounding alpine peaks and glaciers. We crisscrossed beautiful streams as we wound up valley to the terminal moraine of the Perros glacier. The wind had only gotten worse so we snapped some photos and headed into camp. Our camp lies in a forest that breaks most of the wind, allows a little sunlight through and sets us up to start tomorrow early for our hike through John Gardner pass. The feet are a little less sore and pack adjustments have been successful.

Thanks for following along,

RMI Guide Mike King

Today we got started around 8:30 after a light breakfast. We had a windy and rainy night but woke to some sunshine and a light breeze in camp. Our walk took us through rolling fields interrupted by dense thickets of brush and small stunted and twisted birch like trees. We followed the Paine River and eventually towards its headwaters at Lago Dickson which is created by the Dickson glacier.

We had clouds, wind, rain & sun, or some mix of the three for 12 miles. As we approached Lago Dickson, we got views of the glaciated peaks and valley glaciers that carved and continue to dominate this landscape.

The camp lies on a peninsula filled with dense trees and a large field. We ducked into the Refugio as the rain intensified. The group is having a fun time, lots of laughing and a few sore feet.

Tomorrow we head for Los Perros camp. Getting a message out from Perros can be difficult as we are in a tight valley with large alpine peaks on each side. If you don’t hear from us, we’ll check in Friday once we reach Refugio Grey.

Thanks for following along,

RMI Guide Mike King and Team

It is good to be back in the summer heat of Mendoza! The team returned to the city healthy, safe, and proud of our climbing accomplishments. Switching our boots and jackets for flip flops and swim suits has been a welcomed change. To unwind from the trip, we have enjoyed all of what the city has to offer. Lounging by the pool and eating copious amounts of gelato have been our main focuses. The group has become incredibly close during our time in Argentina. We are all eager to head home, yet reluctant to part ways. As the trip concludes, we will continue to relish in each others company until the final moments. Our time together has truly been the best.

Till next time,

RMI Guide Luke Wilhelm, David Price and Team