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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Descend to BaseCamp, Wait to Fly

Sunday, June 2, 2019 - 8:13 AM PT We took advantage of a lull in the weather to pack up our kit and descend from 14,000' to Basecamp. We encountered light snow, but generally pleasant travel conditions during our 8 hour descent. Here at Kahiltna Basecamp it is a crowded scene, as no planes have been able to land here in a few days. Hopefully the weather breaks and we can fly to Talkeetna today. That's it for now. There's still a lot of work to do organizing gear to prepare for a flight. RMI Guide Mike Walter
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

We’re all relieved, knowing that you’re off the mountain and safely onto base camp! So happy for the successful team members too!! Tell Dan Koster hello from his family and friends. We can’t wait to see him soon!
-Godspeed

-Mark Koster

Posted by: Mark Koster on 6/2/2019 at 5:25 pm

So glad to hear you are all safely back at base camp and I hope the weather cooperates for you to fly out of there. Congratulations Jim and team on your successful summit - what an amazing accomplishment! Jim, we cant wait to hear more about it.

Posted by: Clare on 6/2/2019 at 8:48 am


Denali Expedition: Young & Team Move to 11,000’ Camp

Saturday, June 1, 2019 - 11:00 PM PT And the train keeps on rolling! We were up and attem early again this morning, rolling out of bed at 530 am and on the trail by 730 am with all of the remainder of our food and gear on our backs. We spent about 6 hours breaking trail from 7800’ camp all the way to 11,000’ Camp, without a single other climbing team in sight. The snow and clouds kept us cool, and allowed us to make efficient work of the climb. We made it to “11” camp just in time to see our fellow RMI teams led by Mike Walter and Steve Gately before we got down to building camp, which should be our home for the next few nights. Tomorrow, we’ll ‘back-carry’ and finally get the rest of gear up here at 11,000 and be all set to start setting our sites on some of the more fun climbing of the trip. Until then, keep it real out there in the real world. We’ll keep you updated on our progress. RMI Guides Robby, Nick, Joe and Team Trail Break

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Brave team! Go ahead and enjoy this fantastic experience. Something to keep in mind forever. Kisses from Brazil family. Beijos!

Posted by: Cristina Perez on 6/3/2019 at 8:05 am

Look forward to the daily updates.
Sound like so far so good .
Pray that it continues smoothly
Team Young you are all in our prayers

Posted by: Tina’s and John zabinski on 6/3/2019 at 5:13 am


Alaska Seminar: Smith & Team Return to Base Camp

Saturday, June 1, 2019 - 8:40 PM PT We are one step closer to flying of the glacier. Today we made our way back to [url=https://www.rmiguides.com/denali/alaska-mountaineering-seminar]https://www.rmiguides.com/denali/alaska-mountaineering-seminar[/url] in hopes the clouds would part and the planes could land. Unfortunately it stayed cloudy and snowy all day. Tomorrow there could be a chance the weather has some lulls and teams can fly off. Basecamp is a lot busier than when we left it a few days ago. There are many teams that came down from the summit hoping to fly. Tomorrow will be a busy one for Basecamp if the planes come in. Fingers crossed we can catch a ride and see some greenery. But until than we will keep chilling and lounging until it's our time to hit the sky. Come on mother nature, RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Just read seminar description. Sounds like the clients are intelligent people. Too many head to difficult mountains without knowing even basic climbing skills. I commend each of you, and wish y’all long lives, and safe climbing experiences!

Posted by: Susan Moore on 6/1/2019 at 11:38 pm

Until it clears enough for the pilots, you can socialize and play, or learn new skills. It doesn’t sound like any seminar I’ve ever been to.  Sounds like a rough day. Lol! Enjoy the views. Spectacular!

Posted by: Susan Moore on 6/1/2019 at 11:29 pm


Denali Expedition: Gorum & Team Take Rest Day At 14,000 ft Camp

Not much going on at 14,000' Camp today. We ate a late breakfast, and have been watching it snow all day. It’s pretty easy to take a rest day when the weather doesn’t permit much else. Folks have been alternating between reading, napping, and guessing what’s going on in the real world. At this point, with our cache up high, we’ve done all that we can do to prepare to summit this mountain. Now we just rest, recuperate, and wait for good weather. If the forecast holds, we might not have to wait very long, but we will see. We’ll check in again tomorrow. RMI Guide JM Gorum

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Enjoy the rest while you’re able. Lol! I’m wondering if your carb loading, e.g., Snickers, pasta, etc :) Fingers crossed for good weather!

Posted by: Susan Moore on 6/1/2019 at 8:51 pm


Mt. Rainier: Okita, Konway, & Team Reach Columbia Crest with Beautiful Weather

RMI Guides Brent Okita and Jenny Konway radioed down from Columbia Crest, the true summit of Mt. Rainier, this morning to let everyone know that the team reached the summit. Brent reported clear skies, a calm breeze, and perfect weather for a day of climbing. The team began their descent from the crater rim of Mt. Rainier at about 7:30am PT and will be back in town for a celebration dinner later today. Congratulations to today's team!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Thanks everybody had a great time! Glad we all got back down alrighty.

Posted by: Jonathan J Paige on 6/14/2019 at 9:29 am

Congratulations Jonathon! We are so proud of you. I cant wait to hear your stories.

Posted by: Emily Paige on 6/2/2019 at 6:02 am


Denali Expedition: Young & Team Cache Gear, Prepare to Move to 11,000 ft Camp

Friday, May 31, 2019 - 9:41 PM PT What a great day it’s been! We were optimistic when our alarms went off at 4 am that very little snow slid off the top of our tent. The snowfall forecasts under produced and we were up and attem and out of Camp by 6:30 am getting a carry and cache in at the 10,000’ corner. Light snow and clouds kept us cool and happy all day, and despite the lack of views, we were treated to some amazing light on the surrounding glaciers off and on all day. We made it back to camp in time for some afternoon naps and finished our day with a Nick Scott Quesadilla Fiesta for the ages. Gourmet salsas, perfectly hydrated beans, and chicken pepper combos were the rage. Seconds were in high demand. Good conversations were had and then it was time to hit the hay for what looks to be a good day to move camp to 11,000’ tomorrow. Until then, have a great night and we’ll let you know how it goes tomorrow. RMI Guides Robby, Nick, Joe and Team Quesadilla Fiesta

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I’d love to be there just to taste Nick’s fabulous sounding food. Keep up your safe efforts, and enjoy all you can. Step safe y’all! Positive thoughts for fair to great weather, as well as reaching that beautiful summit!

Posted by: Susan Moore on 6/1/2019 at 11:48 pm

Steve, keep it up and be safe! Charlie insists we toast your progress with a few glasses everyday! Cheers.  Fred

Posted by: Fred Dalzell on 6/1/2019 at 7:05 pm


Alaska Seminar: Smith & Team Practice Rest Day Patience

Friday, May 31, 2019 - 9:22 PM PT Today we practiced the rest day. A day full of reading, listening to music, watching TV shows, sporting eating, napping or whatever you can come up with to occupy your time. Being able to entertain yourself all day while it snows outside is an important skill to have on big mountains. It was a light snow today with limited visibility. But the sun's heat made it through the clouds making it rather toasty in the tents. You mix heat and being on the glacier for nine days, you get a pretty stinky tent. Lucky for us though showers are in our near future with a potential for flying off the glacier tomorrow. The forecast is looking better, so hopefully we can here the otters in the morning and catch a ride. Otherwise we will continue to practice resting for another day. Let's hope for blue skies, RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
Leave a Comment For the Team

Denali Expedition: Gorum & Team Take a Cache to 16,600’

Friday, May 31, 2019 7:58 PM PT Today we woke to relatively warm temperatures and light snow. As we looked up to the ridge of the West Buttress there didn’t appear to be any winds, although a bit of snow continued to fall. After a speedy breakfast we decided to make moves and head on up the mountain to cache gear somewhere above the fixed lines. Throughout the first few hours of the day we progressed apprehensively, wary of some menacing looking clouds that were lingering higher up on the mountain, but as we cruised up the fixed lines we were treated with warm temperatures and light winds. This enabled us to progress to 16,600 feet to dig a cache to store some gear to support ourselves for our summit bid. After a quick break we turned around and headed back down to 14 Camp where we are now relaxing and waiting to eat some dinner! Spirits are high and we are all looking forward to a rest day tomorrow. RMI Guide JT Schmitt
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

The updates and beautiful pictures are greatly appreciated!  Such a strong, amazing team!  Sending love and prayers!  Little 18 month old today Cutest says “auntie, mountain.”

Posted by: Jennifer Adams on 6/1/2019 at 1:39 pm

My god, you’re on top of the world!

Posted by: Jane Baxter on 6/1/2019 at 6:08 am


Denali Expedition: Gately & Team Holding Tight at 14K for the Night

Friday, May 31, 2019 4:36 PM PT With the forecast still calling for heavy snow we have opted to stay in the confines of our camp here a 14K. The team enjoyed a late morning breakfast and is now napping away the afternoon. Sunday is still looking like our first possible day to fly off the glacier with the weather only improving into Monday and Tuesday. The plan as of now will still be to launch downhill around midday tomorrow and travel all the way to the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna hopefully chasing improving weather down glacier and ultimately a flight out of here early Sunday morning. We'll see what hand we are dealt with tomorrow. The hope here is to avoid having to travel and set up camp in bad weather but rather time it just right that we walk straight into a plane. For the time being however, we rest and wait for our opportunity. RMI Guide Steve Gately
Leave a Comment For the Team

Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Nestled in at 14K Camp

Friday, May 31, 2019 2:49 PM PT Nothing is easy about climbing Denali. Just ask any member of our team who worked hard for more than two weeks before standing on top of the highest point in North America 17 days after landing at Base Camp on the Kahiltna Glacier. But that doesn't even tell the whole story. Our team eagerly awaited the start of this expedition and spent three antsy days in Talkeetna waiting for good enough weather to fly into Basecamp as a storm sat over the Alaska Range. Now, after summitting, we have descended to the 14k camp and are comfortably nestled in to our old camp. We are socked in the clouds and it is snowing. This morning we spoke via radio with Robby Young, who is leading the 4th RMI Denali expedition. He reported heavy and wet snow on the Kahiltna Glacier between 7800' and 9600'. The weather forecast is calling for heavy snow to continue through tomorrow, hopefully tapering on Sunday. No planes are flying and we are at the mercy of the weather once again. This time we are eagerly awaiting hot showers, cold beer, clean clothes, and a chance to talk with loved ones. Oh, and also flush toilets. Not necessarily in that order. Mountain weather is fickle and right now we are at her mercy. We'll take the good weather on summit day in exchange for playing the waiting game on both the front and tail ends of our expedition. And for now we're practicing our Zen patience in the comfort of our 14k camp. RMI Guide Mike Walter
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I’ve been following Tom M’s InReach and it looks to me like you’ve reached Kahiltna Glacier - Yahoo!!  Welcome back. Congrats on completing the descent, hopefully the planes will be flying you off the glacier shortly.  In the interim you’ll probably be digging up a cache of beer, perhaps a nice bottle of bourbon???

When you get back to Talkeetna enjoy: a cold beer or 2, a burger or 3, a looong hot shower, clean clothes, another cold beer, more burgers, perhaps a pizza, calls to loved ones -that’s my recommended order! 
It’s after midnight here (and there) but since you’re all awake I’m going to join you in a long awaited celebratory drink.  A toast to you all: TEAM WALTER 2019, CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR SUCCESSFUL EXPEDITION, YOU ROCK!!
Cheers
Jacquie

Posted by: Jacquie Byatt on 6/2/2019 at 12:28 am

Wow, I can’t even imagine what it’s like to reach the top of the world. Stay safe and warm. I’m in 91 degree weather, maybe send just a little of the cold this way.

Posted by: Peggy Robertson on 6/1/2019 at 9:44 am

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