Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: Christina Dale, Grayson Swingle, Alan Davis
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Congratulations to the team who was the highest people in North America today, assuming no one is climbing Denali or Logan. We had a restless night of sleep listening to the winds howling but by the time we awoke at 11:30pm they were just gusting. The team did a great job taking care of themselves and climbing well.
One of our favorite parts of this trip has been the people in this group. The other night at dinner we came up with trail names for everyone. Breezy is an up for anything Appalachian Trail through hiker. Flama Blanc is a high energy positive Greek restaurant owner. Payday is a world traveler and mountaineer who makes everyone feel comfortable. Lorenzo is the backbone of our team, supporting us with snacks and good advice. Posh is a calculated climber who can take on whatever he wants. Major Tom is a photographer who captures the beauty in the land and smiles on our faces. St. Ronaldo is a fun loving athlete who makes a ten-hour day look easy. Data is a brilliant and curious life long learner who always has a great story to share. Endurance is the calm and confident leader who everyone wants to follow for his perfect form. Baklava is a smart trail chatter who is great for trail distractions. Then the guides: Muel has the strength of a lion and the courage of a bear, Doc is a determined and amazing leader, and lastly me named Jefe, who has the pleasure of traveling and climbing with this great team!
Thank you all.
-Jefe
On The Map
January 26, 2019 - 11:09 am PT
Polar opposite weather for the summit team’s return to Colera. At this point yesterday we were in a ground blizzard and wondering if we’d get an opportunity to climb. The guides got up at 1:00 am to see clear skies but strong wind. We wouldn’t start then anyway, too cold. At 3:00 the skies were still clear and the winds had calmed. We set off from Camp with a mix of snow and scree. The forecasted 30 mph winds out of the west were present and account for the entire climb.
The route switchbacks for a while and then you arrive at the defunct storm shelter, Independencia Hut at 21,000’. From the hut, the climb ascends a moderate snow slope and then transitions into a long ascending traverse. We had about 60% frozen scree and 40% snow. After feeling like you’ve walked forever without gaining much ground the climbers arrive at “the cave”, it’s not a cave. From the cave the climb is a steep ribbon of winter snow in a feature called the Candeleta. After crossover stepping for what seems like enough time for someone to recite an epic poem you hit the Guanacos Ridge. This ridge goes up, down and never flat; however, towards the end you get a spectacular view of the South face of Aconcagua. Just 10-15 minutes more and your standing on top of the highest mountain outside of the Himalayas.
We are back in camp and will begin the process of heading to Mendoza tomorrow morning. Starting with a down carry of our gear and remaining food to Plaza Argentina. From base camp, mules take our equipment to Penitentes while we stop for one last Argentine asado (Cookout) at Pampa Las Lenas. The following morning after a night of meatmares and red wine to celebrate, we will return to Mendoza for a wine tour or some much needed pool time. Thanks for following along!
RMI Guide Mike King
January 26, 2019 - 7:25 am PT
This is Mike, we reached the summit of Aconcagua just a few minutes ago. The storm blew out around midnight and we hit the trail at 3:45am. I’ll write more once we are back in camp safely, we have a long descent ahead of us.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Congratulations Team!! Job well done!
Posted by: Doug Sherwood on 1/26/2019 at 1:13 pm
Way to go team!! I couldn’t be more proud.
Posted by: Randy Salo on 1/26/2019 at 12:50 pm
Jambo amigos!
Well we’ve finally arrived at our high camp, after a good night's rest and a short hike up to 15,000ft. It was mostly sunny all day with great views of Kili and our climbing route for tomorrow. The team is doing great and feeling well at this new altitude which is a good sign for things ahead.
We’ve just wrapped up lunch and discussed in great detail the plan for tomorrow’s climb. Everyone knows what we’ll be wearing and what will be in the pack as well as the schedule. Our game plan will be to wake at 11pm and have a quick breakfast at 11:30, then hopefully hit the trail right at midnight.
I’m expecting the team to reach the summit in seven hours or so if things go according to plan, and if the weather is in our favor.
The team is planning on making satellite phone calls from the summit to loved ones back home. So if you have a loved one with us please keep your phones handy and if you receive a call from a strange number please answer.
Wish us luck!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and the summit bound Kili crew
On The Map
All the best on this last leg. Good weather and safe footing. From Ma, GG and Dawn
Posted by: Barbara Sluboski on 1/26/2019 at 8:22 pm
We are all sending good thoughts your way for tomorrow!
Posted by: Angi Merlone on 1/26/2019 at 2:58 pm
Posted by: Christina Dale, Alan Davis, Grayson Swingle
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Elevation: 14,000'
After a full day of rest in the historic and colorful city of Puebla the team is ready to attempt to reach the highest point in Mexico! We left Puebla this morning for Tlachichuca and Señor Reyes' climbing hostel and former soap factory. Here we ate a hardy lunch and admired the climbing history that has passed through on the way to Orizaba before loading up in a 4×4 truck to making our way to our camp for the night at 14,000 feet. Its sunny up here with gusty winds and clouds below to the East. Now we are getting ready for some sleep before waking up to climb through the night.
RMI Guide Grayson Swingle
On The Map
Way to go La Jefe and gang. What a beautiful peak. Still at sea level in PR
Lots of love. P & D
Posted by: Peter Von Mertens on 1/29/2019 at 4:58 am
Good luck team - take good care of each other!
Posted by: Stephanie R on 1/26/2019 at 5:43 am
Posted by: Adam Knoff, Chris Ebeling
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Ecuador Volcanoes, day three.
This journey is only three days old but the number of firsts for me has surpassed the last three years. What I mean by firsts is simply having an experience down here I have not had in the 15 years I’ve been guiding these mountains.
For example, I’ve never ventured off the equator tour to go find local home brewed corn beer. I’ve never been told by one of my climbers that they decided to venture out onto the fire escape, only to lock themselves out, with their roommate, and wind up on roof of the lobby looking down directly at the front desk waving to get let back in. I also have never broken two hours ascent time to the summit of Rucu Pinchincha, which we did yesterday without even trying. Yes, that’s fast.......
To continue this trend, we blitzed our second acclimating hike today on a mountain called Fuya Fuya, reached the summit in record time, decided we should keep going and found ourselves on the second summit a kilometer away that I have never even considered going to. The views of Quito were amazing and the team was psyched to have two summits reached instead of one. Right when I thought the day should find its way back to normal, I was again surprised. When we descended and reached the parking lot a few of the guys asked if the lake we were parked next to was good for swimming. After a few typical guy jokes about fish that swim where fish don’t belong and shrunken heads, not attached to our necks, three crazy men stripped off their cloths, high fived and jumped into the lake. Of course at that point jokes about great white somethings happened but jokes aside, swimming in that lake has never happened! Kudos to my “brave” teammates who took the plunge.
After those shenanigans, we all piled back into the bus to head into Otovalo to praise our adventurous spirits and eat some pizza. At this point I was just waiting for an earthquake or meteorite to hit the bus, just to keep the streak alive. It didn’t happen.....Gracias!
Now we are resting nicely at our beautiful hacienda soaking up the warm sun and humid air. When the weather isn’t raining, it can be almost perfect.
In a couple hours we will have another nice team dinner then prepare to head to Cayambe. Our fist “big” objective of the trip. Stay turned for tomorrow’s dispatch on high intensity market negotiating, crazy 4x4 truck rides and a new sleeping altitude for most. With this team I have no idea what might happen.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff & Team
I love the energy this group brings! Looking forward to the stories of the summit bids and how it all goes! Adam is a wonderful human and guide- you are in good hands! Can’t wait for the next update! Safe travels to one and all! ❤️
Posted by: Chrissy on 1/25/2019 at 8:39 pm
Your blog is awesome. Best of luck. Safe and fun! Mom
Posted by: Jane Knoff on 1/25/2019 at 6:04 pm
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'
Rest days are the best days. Days for reading, napping, sport eating and shooting the breeze. We all did plenty of that plus a few chores. Everyone had to visit the base-camp doctor, to which everyone received a green-light to go up the mountain. More shuffling of gear was done to get ready for our carry tomorrow. Tomorrow we will head up to Camp 1 to cache some of our gear. With nice weather in the forecast, it's going to be good day.
After while crocodile,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team
mini-marshmellows? just asking
Posted by: John Murray on 1/25/2019 at 9:27 pm
“sport eating” … such a great description! Glad all have the green light to go on up, time for the real fun to begin!!!
Posted by: Karen on 1/25/2019 at 6:42 pm
We had cold temperatures and moderate winds this morning when we woke up. The upper mountain was engulfed in a dark grey cloud with snow eventually spinning lightly through the air. Our high camp at 19,600’ was visible so we drug our feet getting camp broke down. The weather didn’t seem to be getting better or worse, so we headed up. Cold gust of wind and overcast skies followed us up. We are at camp, hunkered down in our tents. The process of making water keeps the guides busy for the remainder of the day and well into the night. Our fingers are crossed that since the precipitation arrived earlier then expected, it will blow out overnight. If that doesn't happen, we’ll likely have a weather day here at Colera and attempt on the 27th. You all will know more, when I know more. Good night from 19,600’.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Can’t wait to hear!! Love and prayers for all.
Posted by: Mary Hall on 1/26/2019 at 8:46 am
Hey Mike , Nick , Blessings for Perfect weather for your summit day!
Dave Kestel
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 1/26/2019 at 4:43 am
Hello again everyone.
We had a slower start today to allow the many porters to hit the ever narrowing trail. Right out of camp we were faced with the only real technical obstacle right out of camp. This hurdle is the great Barranco Wall, which rises about 1,000 feet and looks as intimidating as it sounds. Thankfully there is a nice narrow trail that weaves its way up and through the wall and all the way to the top. Most of it feels more like steep hiking, but there are a few places that require the use of our hands to help us climb up.
The team did a good job of moving steady and allowing a few porters through with their loads precariously balanced on their heads. Which was astonishing to see!
After reaching the top we took a nice break and enjoyed the amazing views of the ice-ladened south face and valleys below. The team continued our hike for a few more hours up and down through a few valleys before reaching camp.
All in all, it took only about four hours for us to reach our next camp called Karanga, named for the big and beautiful valley which it overlooks and the peanuts that are grown far below in the valley.
We spent the remainder of the day relaxing and playing cribbage, which has been quite the hit.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and the 2nd Kili crew
On The Map
Wow. Climbing that rock wall is more like crawling up. Wicked.! Wishing you all the best the rest of the way. Godspeed !!
Posted by: Barbara Sluboski on 1/25/2019 at 8:32 pm
Go team, go! Enjoy the views - the photos are great. Good work getting up the Wall! Safe travels -
Posted by: Rebecca Brown on 1/25/2019 at 3:31 pm
Posted by: Christina Dale, Alan Davis, Grayson Swingle
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
After a good night of sleep, lots of coffee, and a two hour breakfast the team explored the city of Puebla today. We love this city for its charm, beautiful churches, and friendly people. The hotel we stay in has a huge rooftop terrace that gives us a view of La Malinche to the North, our last climb to the west and our next goal to the east. Yesterday, as we descended Ixta, our group was tired, wind blasted, and hungry so talk of another mountain was not appealing. But, today is a different story, our team is well fed and rested and happy to embark on the next climb. Here are just a few quotes from the group today: "I've traveled to over 50 countries, and Puebla is blowing my mind!" And, "I'm in a great mood!" Yep, we are lucky to have these folks to climb with.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
What a great view from the summit, Congratulations Sue and team, can’t wait to see you and talk about your adventure.
Sandra E
Posted by: Sandra E on 1/25/2019 at 4:27 pm
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'
We continued feeling like a cowboy by riding a mule across the river this morning. The river is painfully cold, so it was nice to avoid walking across. After a short ride we were back to traveling by foot. We exited the Vacas Valley and entered the Relinchos Valley. The views are gorgeous with steep rock on one side and rolling hills on the other. By the end of our walk we reach Aconcagua Basecamp just under 14,000'. Its a welcoming sight. We are greeted with juice and pizza. You feel rather civilized up here. Comfort food of shepard's pie and a welcome cake were enjoyed by all for dinner. The team is psyched and doing well.
Later alligator,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
On The Map
Pizza and welcome cake? Sounds like I should be there.
Good luck to all.
Posted by: Monica decicco on 1/25/2019 at 9:42 am
Good luck team! Have a great climb!
Posted by: Shannon Smith on 1/25/2019 at 6:53 am
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I couldn’t have asked for a better guide team in Christina, Grayson and Alan! It was an absolute pleasure meeting some great climbers and getting ourselves up some mountains. Keep climbing everyone!!
Posted by: Mychal Wooldridge on 1/27/2019 at 12:47 pm
Jefe Mule and Doc deserve all the credit for making this the best RMI trip yet. Hope our paths cross again! Breezy
Posted by: Andreas Renner on 1/27/2019 at 12:42 pm
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