Entries from Locations
Posted by: Casey Grom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro
Hello everyone and welcome to RMI's third Kilimanjaro's trip of the season -
The team arrived late last night after our very long and tiring flights from the U.S. We were greeted by the wonderful staff from the Dik Dik lodge with warm smiles and a little champagne to toast our arrival.
After a short and quiet ride to our lodge we had a quick dinner then headed off to bed to catch up on some much needed sleep.
The team met this morning at breakfast with fresh fruits, homemade bread and jam, and plenty of good Tanzanian coffee.
We then got together for a formal round of introductions and a overview of the upcoming adventure. We discussed our plan for the climb and made sure everyone has all the necessary gear to keep us safe and warm on Kilimanjaro.
We then took a short break and went for a stroll on the beautiful grounds hoping to catch sight of some of the monkeys that often visit. Then we did a little packing and caught up on a little more sleep to help get adjusted to the big time difference.
We finished the evening with an amazing 5 course meal with great conversations, and everyone is squared away and looking forward to hitting the trail tomorrow as well as getting a little exercise.
RMI Guide Casey Grom
Our team left the hustle and bustle of Moscow early this morning and made our way to the mountains. We had a long day of flying and driving to get here and we are excited to be in the Baksan Valley at the base of Mt. Elbrus. Everyone is in great spirits so we are going to just relax thus evening and listen to the thunderstorms roll on through. Tomorrow is another day and sun or no sun...it's great to be in the mountains!
RMI Guide JJ Justman
On The Map
Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
_blog.jpg)
RMI Guide Billy Nugent and his Five Day Summit Climb Team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning along with Mike King and the Four Day Summit Climb. Billy reported clear skies and cool temperatures for their climb. Both teams began their descent from the crater rim a little after 9 am PST. The teams will return to Camp Muir and then continue their descent to Paradise. We look forward to seeing both teams back at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams.
Is there any word on the group that will summit Tuesday night/Wednesday morning that includes my husband Russell Frederickson? Wishing everyone a wonderful climb!! Jody
Posted by: Jody Frederickson on 7/28/2015 at 5:58 pm
“Cool”????? Billy, you are the MASTER of understatement, haha!
I’m so sorry that I couldn’t hang with you to the summit, but I very thankful to you for keeping us all safe. You are a true professional, and I have the utmost respect for you, Katrina, Blake and the entire RMI team.
Posted by: Barbara Beatrice on 7/28/2015 at 4:48 pm
Good evening all, the team is doing great. Today we carried up to Moraine Camp, 16,300'. After a leisurely pancake breakfast, we packed our climbing gear under blue skies and started hiking around ten o'clock. Unfortunately high clouds rolled in and by mid morning, though this made for a less-impressive view, we were glad for the cooler temperatures as we made our way up the rocky slopes to Moraine Camp. Everyone did a great job with the moderate loads and the new altitude, 16,300 feet. After caching our gear we made our way back to Base Camp for lunch and a relaxing afternoon. Tomorrow we will sleep in and enjoy a full rest day.
Thanks for following along,
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Alpamayo team
Posted by: Katrina Bloemsma
Categories: Aconcagua
For the past two winters I’ve traveled to the south side of the globe to join RMI’s teams on Cerro Aconcagua (Argentina). Despite being a skier and winter-lover through and through, each fall I find myself eagerly anticipating my trip to Argentina. Thanks to the Andes, the cuisine, and the new friends I make there each year, I’ve fallen in love with Aconcagua. Here are the top five reasons I look forward to making the long voyage south each winter:
Mules: Aconcagua is a unique mountain in that it is exceptionally dry. Its base camp at 13,800’ is reached by hiking twenty-seven hot, dusty miles along the Vacas river which sits deep in a rocky and sparsely vegetated valley. We rely on mules to carry our heavy expedition equipment to Base Camp over the course of our trek. The mules, loaded with two or three 30 kilogram duffels a piece, run along the river kicking up dust with the southern flanks of Aconcagua as a backdrop. Unlike horses, which expire quickly without water, the mules can run the 27 miles to basecamp fully loaded in a single morning and make the return trip to the trailhead that same afternoon. The mules are cared for and driven by Herrieros, the predecessors of the iconic South American Gauchos. The Herrieros ride the largest and sleekest mules and wear a traditional red cap that looks like a wool beret. They tie large patterned sashes around their waists and tuck a large, leather-sheathed blade in the back. At night the sashes are used to cover the eyes of the younger or more rambunctious mules in camp while the riders sit around a fire and grill in the Argentinian style. Which leads me to another part I love about an Aconcagua expedition…
Asado: A traditional grill that sits just off the ground. Slow burned hardwood provides the coals to cook large slabs of heavily salted steak. There is simply nothing better than coming down from climbing to a camp dinner of fresh steak and wine. Over our Asado dinner the last night on trail, the team has a chance to reflect and enjoy each other’s company, knowing they’re reaching the end of a successful expedition.
Mendoza: This small city nestled in Argentinian wine country is our jumping off point for all Aconcagua expeditions. Mendoza draws tourists of all sorts: wine connoisseurs, climbers, fly fishers, horseback riders, and a host of others. But all of them find in Mendoza some of the best cuisine and wine South America has to offer. The rise in popularity of Argentinian wines complements a rich food culture that descends from a mélange of European and native cultures. Whatever you crave after three weeks in a tent, whether steak, authentic Italian pasta, empanadas, fusion, or just pizza, you’ll find it in Mendoza. I promise, it will be delicious.
The View from Chopper Camp: So far everything I’ve mentioned about climbing Aconcagua has been about food and culture (forgive me, I love a good meal!). And while the cultural experience in Argentina is undoubtedly one of my favorite parts of the Aconcagua expedition, the view at Camp Two on Aconcagua takes my breath away every time. Sitting below the Polish Glacier on a small ridge at 18,600ft, Camp Two (or Chopper Camp) offers up the first views of the greater Andean range. From Base Camp on up, climbers see Aconcagua towering above them day and night, until suddenly we come around the final traverse into camp and the Andes stretch out as far as you can see: to the north and east toward Mendoza and west all the way into Chile. It is here, at Chopper Camp, that the expedition picks up energy: the summit is close, the final push on the horizon!
The Team: As the old adage goes, it takes a village to climb a mountain, or something along those lines. Aconcagua requires a tremendous amount of teamwork every step of the way. Our broader team includes the mule drivers who make sure our equipment arrives, the porters who help a climber with an especially heavy load, the Base Camp staff who cook us our first dinners, the drivers, expedition providers, hotel staff and numerous others who work with RMI year after year to make sure climbers and guides are cared for along the way. These people become part of our team. They have become friends and mentors and I look forward to seeing them each year. And then, there is our expedition team: the three guides and ten climbers who live together, work hard building camp together each night, eat every meal together for almost three weeks, and learn more about each other in that time than most people learn in a year. This network and the chance to be part of a new climbing team, more than anything else, calls me back to Aconcagua year after year.
_____
Katrina Bloemsma hails from the mountains of Colorado, but now calls the Pacific Northwest home. She guides in Washington on Mt. Rainier and the North Cascades, and further south, on Aconcagua. An avid skier and climber, Katrina can be found chasing deep snow and warm rocks when she isn't guiding.
Katrina Bloemsma hails from the mountains of Colorado, but now calls the Pacific Northwest home. She guides in Washington on Mt. Rainier and the North Cascades, and further south, on Aconcagua. An avid skier and climber, Katrina can be found chasing deep snow and warm rocks when she isn't guiding.
Today's Four Day Summit Climb team lead by RMI Guide Mike Haugen reached the summit of Mt. Rainier shortly after 7 am. Mike reported calm winds and great climbing. They will spent a bit of time on top before beginning their descent. Once they return to Camp Muir, they will take a quick break, repack their gear and continue their descent to Paradise.
We look forward to seeing the team at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb team!
Congratulations, I’m so glad you made it. Can’t wait to hear all about it. Love Mom
Posted by: Wendy on 7/26/2015 at 3:51 pm
Congratulations! What an awesome accomplishment
Posted by: Diane on 7/26/2015 at 1:37 pm
Posted by: JJ Justman
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside
Hello from Moscow -
Our second RMI Team has gathered in Moscow to begin our trip to Mt. Elbrus. New beginnings for me and a new adventure for all. Today we had a beautiful sunny day here in Moscow and spent the morning exploring the beautiful sites on a great city tour. Check out the video to see what we saw!!
RMI Guide JJ Justman
Thanks for the updates! We’re following along from Seattle, WA! Hope the weather cooperates & you Reach the top! GO Team Elbrus!
Posted by: Grotjahn Family on 7/27/2015 at 12:49 pm
What a great adventure that lies ahead. We miss you SO MUCH Daddy! we love you so so much! We are praying for your climb!!
Posted by: Kylie, Jake, Cait & Kristen on 7/26/2015 at 11:16 pm
-(P3).jpg)
Today we awoke to blue sky's and light wind, coffee in bed followed by a fantastic breakfast. After breaking camp we helped load the donkeys and continued hiking up the beautiful Santa Cruze valley. With every step more sunning mountain seemed to reveal themselves, truly an awe inspiring place. After a couple hours of hiking we turned north and climbed some switchbacks before sauntering into our Base Camp at 14,200'. We all got our first look at Alpamayo, one of the most beautiful peaks I have ever seen. Shortly after arriving to our Base Camp lunch was served, soup and pasta, quite tasty. The rest of the afternoon was spent relaxing and bathing in the river.
The team is doing very well and we are all excited to be here.
Thanks for following along with us
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Alpamayo team
Giddy up Rob
Posted by: Jay on 7/26/2015 at 4:47 am
Donkeys? Unnecessary. Don’t you guys from the East Coast (VT and NY) know that the CA boys (Jesse and John) are going to get soft if you don’t work them. Load them up! Trudge on John.
Posted by: Kent Stenderup on 7/25/2015 at 10:28 pm
Greetings from Huaraz!
The team finished the expedition yesterday, arriving safe and sound to the capital of the Ancash district of Peru, but also the capital of Andean climbing. Our descent to the trail head at Cashapampa, with the help of horses, was an extraordinary experience. We took our time to enjoyed for the last time the views of the massively snow fluted peaks and turquoise lakes down valley. Right on time for a shower and a celebratory dinner, the arrival at the hotel marked the end of our climbing adventure. We'll spend the day today relaxing in Huaraz and enjoying a Pachamanca, typical Peruvian meal cooked underground, with our local guide and outfitter's family, before packing for tomorrow's departure to Lima and flights back home.
Thanks to all for following and cheering for this team during our climb! We just say bye now until next year's expedition, wishing best of luck to Geoff's Schellens' team, who's currently starting the 2nd RMI Alpamayo climb this season.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
Posted by: Brent Okita, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,200'
The Four Day Summit Climb led by Brent Okita and Peter Van Deventer did not reach the summit this morning. The teams left Camp Muir at about 1:00 am in full hard shell layers, but it was not match for the weather. The team made the decision to turn at Ingraham Flats. They will be departing Camp Muir at around 8:30 this morning and be back in Ashford in the early afternoon.
Congratulations to today's teams!
Previous Page
Next Page
So proud of your courage Giulia, trip is out of the world for me, love mom
Posted by: michal graber on 7/30/2015 at 6:00 am
Good Luck to the 3 musketeers! Climb safe, see you soon!
JB
Posted by: Jonathan Ball on 7/28/2015 at 9:10 am
View All Comments