Entries from Locations
The June 3-6
Four Day Summit Climb led by
RMI Guides Adam Knoff, Gloria Roe and Lydia Johnson reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Adam reported cold and windy conditions but overall good climbing. The team enjoyed some time on top before starting their return to Camp Muir. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp later today.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb Team!
June 5, 2017
Today the team woke to find a fresh coat of feather light snow over camp, with more coming down. We were content to snuggle back into our sleeping bags for a few more hours before the sun finally appeared. After a satisfying breakfast of granola with fresh blueberries, we spent the morning practicing ascending fixed lines in preparation for when we move from 14,000' Camp to 17,000'. We followed up our training with a delicious potluck lunch.
Now we are getting ready for bed with full bellies and well rested legs. If weather allows, we will try move up to
14,000' Camp tomorrow. Good night from 11,000'!
RMI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
June 5, 2017
After our cache to
17,200' Camp yesterday, our team had earned a well deserved rest day. We cooked up some breakfast burritos this morning for brunch which included eggs, bacon and hash browns. After digesting our breakfast, we stretched out our legs by walking to the Edge of the World. Each team member was belayed out to the edge which drops some 5,000 ft to the Northeast Fork and provides some great photos to bring home. The weather outlook is calling for some windy and cold days ahead so the team may be sticking it out here at 14k camp but when our time comes we will be rested and ready to climb!
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
Since our last update a lot has happened. As we speak the last of the group is filtering back to our respective starting points or wrapping up they're time in Bolivia with a bit of personal exploration! But before we get ahead of ourselves, there's great news to be shared.
The entire team stuck it out for a 6 and a 1/2 hr
ascent of Illimani! We were greeted with cold, clear climbing in perfect conditions up past 20,000 ft. Much of the climbing route faces west, so the morning sun was always tantalizingly close as we neared the glowing summit ridge. Our sunrise came as we finally broke off the west side and crested the ridge into the welcoming sun. With one last hour of breaking trail up the beautiful summit ridge the team could taste our hard work paying off. Before we knew it all three rope teams plopped down on the summit of Illimani to take a much needed food and water break and basque in our success.
The top of Illimani is a breathtaking ridge crest amongst the greater expanse of the Illimani Massif. From that point, the highest in the Cordierra Real, we could see all the way past La Paz and track our entire trip from the glimmering Lake Titicaca to the jagged peaks of the Condoriri and the huge perfect flanks of Huayna Potosi. Our team had a brief moment to relive the wonderful past couple weeks before the tight wind was nipping at our heels as we pushed off to begin our 8,000 ft decent back to Base Camp.
Our team's tired legs mustered one last push into camp and there we were! Happy, tired and feeling accomplished. I couldn't have asked for a better summit day and a better team to do it with!
At last we've got to give a big thanks to everyone who made this trip so successful. Thank you, thank you to everyone who helped us along the way and a special thanks to our amazing climbers who made this trip so special! Until next time over and out!!
RMI Guides
Eric Frank &
Caleb Ladue
We last gave a shout from 7,600’ at the base of Ski Hill on our descent. It was a long day, beginning with the sun hitting
17 Camp, where we packed up all of our belongings, and headed back down the West Buttress. Conditions couldn’t have been better, and before long we were shedding layers as quickly as we could as we walked into the heat of 14 Camp. An hour of repacking and grabbing more of our gear that we had cached there as well as visiting with
RMI Guide Tyler Jones’ team had us ready to move out again. By 11, the air felt thick and the temps were even warmer. RMI Guide Jake Beren and team had been nice enough to dig up our cache, so once more we repacked, adjusted our sleds, traded crampons for snowshoes, and kept beat footing our way down the mountain. We rolled into 7,600 at 10 pm, and though there was a lot of discussion of just continuing on to Base Camp, we decided to throw up the tents for a few hours. We were rewarded with spectacular light as the sun dipped behind the surrounding peaks, and it was a special last night on the glacier. By 4 am we were up and walking again. The few hours of sleep had added some spring to everyones’ step and we flew down glacier, reaching Base Camp in 2.5 hours. We parked next to the runway just as the sun hit. At 9 am on the dot, our good friends from K2 Aviation showed up in three Otters to pick up ourselves and Mike Walter’s team, and by 10 we were in flip-flops back in Talkeetna. Everyone enjoyed the ensuing leisurely day of sorting gear, showers, ice cream, coffee, a celebratory dinner, and a few hours in the classic Fairview Inn. Everyone has split now, finishing plane journey’s back home to loved ones.
Thanks so much to our team. They climbed in great style, were equal to the task when things got difficult, put up with a lot of tent time and waiting, and ultimately were able to power through a move to 17 and a summit day without having carried there. We summited an hour or so after Mike Walter’s group (the first guide service summit of the year), on the first viable summit day that had presented itself during our entire stint on the mountain. We were rewarded with incredibly clear views, warm temps, and an overall fantastic day. The views on the way out were pretty stunning as well. Thanks also to all of you for following along. Sore feet and legs are fading away but folks are already talking of their next climbs to come. We look forward to it!
Best,
RMI Guides Pete, Jess, and Jenny.
June 4, 2017
Excitement, nervousness and apprehension are some of the emotions running through the group right now as we try to relax and get some sleep before going for the summit in the morning.
The sky is clear, winds are light and it's warm right now as the sun is still shining at 9:30pm. The morning will be quite different though. Sub zero temps will make getting out of these tents hard at best.
No need for an alpine start here on
Denali. We'll rise around 7:00-7:30am since we really don't need to stop get back to camp early like on normal alpine climbs.
The crew is ready, and so are we!
Wish us luck.
RMI Guides Brent, Christina and JT
On The Map
I just wanted to touch base with everyone that has followed our expedition. We flew off of the mountain yesterday, June 3rd, and we're working our way back to our normal lives.
We reached the summit on June 1, the first guide service of the season to step on
top of Denali! The weather could not have been better, and we took advantage of it by spending nearly an hour on top of the highest point in North America.
We endured lots of weather during our trip, but we endured and got it done. It was a super rewarding summit with dedicated climbers.
We're already planning our next trip!
RMI Guide Mike Walter
The
Four Day Summit Climb June 2-5, 2017 led by
RMI Guides Ben Liken & Mike King reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The team enjoyed pleasant temperatures and great views from the summit for over an hour. They began their descent from the crater rim around 7:40 am en route to Camp Muir. They will descend to Paradise this afternoon and we look forward to seeing them back at Rainier BaseCamp.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb Teams!
June 4, 2017
Today was our hardest day yet! The team did another outstanding job on our climb up to
High Camp at 17,200 ft. The crew also managed to return the favor to Brent's climb by bumping the last of their equipment and food from 16,600' as well as prep their arrival to high camp un-burying their caches from a few days ago. We had perfect weather and amazing views of the whole south side of the Alaska range. The descent was a bit of a traffic jam but all went well and the snow has begun as we arrived back to our tents in 14,000' Camp. Our plan for now is to rest and recover tomorrow. Then we will just wait for our summit opportunity! Fingers crossed for nice weather Tuesday and beyond!
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
On The Map
June 4, 2017
Anticipating a long hard day we woke the team and fired stoves at 5AM. After a hearty breakfast of toasted bagels, cream cheese, smoked salmon and capers the team quickly assembled for the climb. Skies were clear when we left camp and the temps quite cool, great for climbing! The plan for the day was to carry a cache of gear to 14k Camp to both lessen the burden of weight when we eventually move and to acclimate to a new altitude. We climb through several iconic features on the way including Motorcycle Hill, Squirrel Hill, The Polo Fields and finally Windy Corner. The team did great and were psyched to leave the sleds and snowshoes behind for crampons and an ice axe! Clouds started billowing in just as we reached 14k camp so we dug our cache spent a few moments to refuel, re-hydrate and breathe the new air at
14,000'.
The team is all now back at camp and doing great. Tomorrows agenda is unknown, a lot depends on the weather forecast. We may take a rest day or we may move camp up to 14k. You'll just have to tune in tomorrow to find out!
Thanks for following along everybody.
RMI Guide Steve Gately & Team
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Adam, Gloria and Lydia: Thank you for a great climb and a wonderful life experience. You taught us all so much! The camaraderie of the group was fun. Sophie and I enjoyed the deep breaths, rest stepping and the dark ascent into the wonderland!
Posted by: Keefe on 6/9/2017 at 8:43 pm
So proud of you guys!! Enjoy the rest of your trip! You deserve it!! Here’s another one for the books!
Lisa
Posted by: Lisa on 6/6/2017 at 10:48 am
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